(Topic ID: 39702)

How hard is it to remove the backbox on a Fish Tales?

By Collin

11 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 16 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by mwong168
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 11 years ago

Hey guys,

I've got a Fish Tales coming to me later this week! (My first DMD; I'm really excited!) I was wondering if anyone could tell me how difficult it is to remove the backbox from the game. I figured if it's reasonably possible, it would make getting the game in the car much easier, and would also save some weight for the sake of carrying it downstairs. Any thoughts/advice are much appreciated!

Thanks,

Collin

*EDIT* Anyone happen to know the exact width of the backbox?

#2 11 years ago

For what it's worth, my only frame of reference is a Gottlieb System 1 (Totem) which is literally a few connectors to disconnect, and four bolts to remove.

#3 11 years ago

If you do not need to (i.e. have enough space in vehicle and door ways) then don't remove it.

If you need to remove it, then there is nothing to it. Just remove some connectors (take pictures before hand just to help you make sure you know where to replace) and unbolt the hinges. Easy as pie.

#4 11 years ago

Hey,

The first time you do it, it's a bit intimidating. The second time, it's a bit easier. The third time, you can do it in your sleep. There are a LOT of connectors in there, but if you have the manual, you shouldn't have any trouble. You'll find that the connectors only reach far enough to hit the spot on the board where they're supposed to go; you'd have to be doing something really wrong to get a connector that was supposed to plug in near the bottom of the backbox to reach to the top of e backbox.

Luke

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from Collin:

For what it's worth, my only frame of reference is a Gottlieb System 1

Probably at least 8 times the connectors, not to mention ground braid, and un bolting the hinges/head.

Lots of pictures, lots of notes, mark everything. Note ribbon cables have a red stripe on one side, this goes to pin one each end.

LTG : )

#6 11 years ago

Awesome, thanks for the info! I figured it couldn't be much more complicated than that, but thought I'd better be sure of what I'm getting into.

*edit* okay, sounds like wiring isn't as consolidated into harnesses or quick-disconnects as I might've thought, then.... I may try to avoid disconnecting it, based on what I'm hearing.

#7 11 years ago

Also, if anyone could tell me how wide the backbox is on that pin, I'd appreciate it.

#8 11 years ago
Quoted from Collin:

Also, if anyone could tell me how wide the backbox is on that pin, I'd appreciate it.

28 3/4 inches.

LTG : )

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

28 3/4 inches.
LTG : )

Well then, it's going to have to come off.

#11 11 years ago

Yeah... That's going to make it less enticing to buy and sell games, for sure.

Though, I've managed to do a complete breakdown and rebuild of a few Sega Naomi Universal / Crazy Taxi arcade cabinets, and that got much easier after the first two. This is probably about the same.

#12 11 years ago

Is this a doorway problem? Is it possible to remove hinges and (with help, and with enough wire slack) rotate the backbox in place to be parallel with playfield ?? Maybe resting on a furniture dolly and roll through a door? Thought I heard people have done that, but not sure which type of machine(s).

#13 11 years ago

its its a doorway issue take the door off, its easier to remove than a backbox. if that still does not work put the pin on end with the back box folded, measure the distance from the bottom f the back to the back of the folded backbox, its usually a bit narrower that way, just bring it in on end sideways.

#14 11 years ago

I have to take the heads off of all the WPC games in my collection to get them into or out of my basement. The first time is the most difficult. The more you do it the easier it gets. Two bits of advice:

1 - mark every connector with a fine tip sharpie to match the connoctor number.
2 - be very patient when you put it back together and make the connections.

You will find it is pretty straightforward. No different than what the factory went through to assemble the game.

Mike O.

#15 11 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

No different than what the factory went through to assemble the game.

One minor difference.

At the factory if they plugged anything in wrong and blew stuff up they could crate it and send it on it's merry way.

If you blow it up, it's on you. Just do a good job so that don't happen.

LTG : )

#16 11 years ago

It looks intimidating but removing the head is key to getting a game up my stairs as gravity is working against you.

You can either use a sharpie to write on the connectors or use some masking tape to write the connector number on. Most people will say the connectors are keyed anyways but I still think it is better to take the few minutes to label so that way when you are putting things back together you do not have to guess or make any assumptions and risk messing something up. As you do this more you will learn which connectors you do not need to bother labeling or disconnecting such as the backbox GI connector or backbox speakers.

Also if you have everything unplugged you can pull the play field out completely from the cab to make it lighter and easier to move down without any additional work. You just have to be careful and take your time handling the play field and set it in a safe place on its side as you do not want to rest the weight on say a coil bracket. DE, Sega and Stern games are easy to remove the playfield but Bally and Williams games have a hinge and latch you need to release and snap back in place. After a few you will get the hang of it I am sure.

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