(Topic ID: 90892)

How do YOU properly "Nastify", or modify your your pin-decks to be more...

By Caucasian2Step

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 55 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by DK
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

Interesting, balanced, better?

I am bringing this in from another post to deal with this issue more directly. Granted, every copy of every game (even the same game) will play differently. But I'd like to know what pinsiders do to make their games more challenging as well as which specific games and examples of those nastifications they would be willing to share with the community. Some are simple, some are complex. Some are software and some are physical hardware modifications that make a difference in gameplay.

For example: Jon Replogle (PAPA) took a game that has a notorious reputation for an exploit (Mousin' around) and put hard rubber bumpers on either side of the ramp to make the entrance not much wider than the ball. In a simple solution, he balanced out the game in a brilliant and effective way. Are you really gonna go for that shot when you gots real $$$ on the line?

Another Example: Jim Belsito removed the lane change from Eight Ball Champ and kept the game from boosting Bonus X through the roof. This makes the rest of the game more worthwhile shooting for and now all of those standups behind the drop targets are worth more points. I am not exactly sure how this one works as I have not personally witnessed it, but it great players like Jim take a game and make it a "player". I'm interested!

My own Examples:
I have modified my Laser Cue to not have the guide under the lower right hand flipper and it makes a HUGE difference in ball times.
My Creature From the Black Lagoon does not rotate the snackbar standups and you can't light a standup from the center hole. This simple software option makes the game much more dangerous.

Some of the more straightforward adjustment that can be done are often not. I hear many players that write off games as "too easy" without doing the work of making you have to work for the game.

Standard issue adjustments:
Remove outlane posts/rubbers
Steepen (or even "gasp" lower) the angle of the PF
Fresh Wax
Fresh rubber sets
New flipper rubbers/ Sooper-Bands
Whisper-Tilt (tm) plumb-bob altitude modification
Adjusting software options/rules to mank-nasty difficulty.

Papa style adjustments:
Lightning flippers (most notably on WCS '94 and LotR)
Big Ol' yella rubber baby buggy bumpers on orbit/lane/ramp entrances

Sometimes even Cliffy hole/saucer protectors make a difference in a shot.

This post was taken from another string that I put a bunch of this info in before. But I believe that this info is valid and good to share with the rest of the community. Any ideas/mods should be posted here. Link games as needed. Pics/ movies are greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

C2S

#7 9 years ago

Yeah, The Creature is designed for you to go for the "easier" of the F-I-L-M letters out of order so you miss out on your F-I-L-M bonus. At the same time if you Complete F and go straight for M, you get a skill shot reflex bonus. I end up playing the right ramp/ orbit strategy quite a bit and beat many players who methodically go for F-I-L-M and struggle with the process.

Taking notes from Master B here: http://pinball.org/rules/creaturefromtheblacklagoon-notes.txt

My Creech has large yellow bumpers which narrow shots and make incomplete ones nudge off them on the way down starting the side to side motion of death. Backhanding the right ramp is the safest/ best/ most worthwhile way to make every shot from the left flipper worthwhile.

#18 9 years ago

Agree

Quoted from Pinballrus:Easy ones that will make your pin much more interesting
No extra balls
No ball save
No rubbers on outlanes
Wide open outlanes
I try to get my pins to average 1min per ball.

Agreed, sometimes keeping things short is for the best. Not always appreciated on longer playing games with wizard (or multiple wizard) modes, but it does keep things focused and on point. Every action requires risk assesement and skill!

#21 9 years ago

I am planning to do this to my WCS '94 and my LotR. I haven't been able to score a Dr. Who or a Dracula, sooo... why not?

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

If you really want to nasty a game up set the pitch at 5 degrees so that it's impossible to trap the ball and put the slings on a hair trigger

I can hear myself cursing at the game already. Deliciously sadistic!

#29 9 years ago

I am taking a bit of time to fine tune my tilts. Some games like Flip Flop with the reversed inlane/outlane layout and Flash Gordon, really require a bit of nudging skills to get the game to play as it should. I think I may do this with my Stars as well. Any suggestions for tuning other than gameplay are appreciated.

1 week later
#32 9 years ago

Ouch... Especially if flashers are on top of the slings (Steeeerrrrrrnnn!). I can feel my retinas gettin' toasty already!

#34 9 years ago

If you are interested in having fun. Great! By all means have fun. I see pinball as a personal development tool and as such, am looking for a challenge. I still have fun, but I still love the challenge and rocking a game that will make all the pin-ladies swoon!

#37 9 years ago

The one on the upper right???

#38 9 years ago

Another tip I heard from Dan Gutchess at the Pre-IFPA tourneys here in Denver. His games were faster than I ever remembered and I asked him what he did. He told me that he just Novus 2'd the playfields.

No wax.

He didn't recommend doing this with games that weren't diamond \ clear coated, but DAY-UMMM... The 1up tables (both at the LoDo and Colfax locations) were blazing!

#41 9 years ago

Here's a similar string:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-can-i-properly-papa-ize-my-games

If anyone else has similar strings, I'd love to check them out.

#42 9 years ago

From MHS (the MAN HIM SELF) with the last string:

"As a general rule, PAPA tilts in a-bank should be set to ideally give a player one good nudge, but there's slightly more to it than that. If a game design forces a player into shooting uncontrollable shots to progress, like Whirlwind, the tilt will ideally be looser than, say, spiderman, where every shot returns safely to a flipper. On spiderman, the tilt will be tighter, but even it shouldn't randomly tilt. The phantom tilts come into play when the tilt wasn't set correctly to begin with or players don't wait for it to settle between balls.

Also, nothing should be openly broken. If the right slingshot on Monster Bash isn't working, tell a tech and they will fix it for you. Some games are set steeper than others, some games are set shallower than others. Inducing vertical or lateral motion through pitch can lead to shorter or longer ball times depending on the game (making something steeper can sometimes make it easier). In general, just leave it at the factory setting and you will always be close.

As someone else mentioned above, the specific tournament has a lot to do with how games are set. At Pinburgh, games are set significantly easier than a-bank level (probably closer to C) because people only get one chance to play the game and learn the angles. The problems with long ball times typically arise when players are allowed to play the same game 20 straight times and learn every rebound. So, the difficulty of the game is determined by the qualifying structure just as much as the people who will be playing it.

Slingshot sensitivity is big. They are typically very tight in a-bank and get looser as the games move down the ladder in divisions.

_____

Sure, yeah. There are wax patterns on games. Anyone who has been into bowling knows how the oil conditions affect lanes. Pinball is the same way. Certain games will get wax or cleaned in certain areas to attempt to induce a ball toward one area of the playfield over another. This is all totally game dependent, so it's not easy to really give a rule of thumb, but I do pay attention to which areas of a playfield I will leave dirty or clean relentlessly for whatever reason.

With regard to rubbers, the fact they are new is what makes the most difference. We buy rubbers from lots of different sources and use them accordingly. Categorizing rubbers by color is dangerous because while that benchmark is generally correct, it can be incorrect depending on the specific run of rubber or supplier. Just pay attention to what they're playing like, dorometer, etc, and above anything else just make sure they're not sun bleached, old, or rotting. Also, the type of flipper rubbers makes a big difference. PAPA 14 used the wrong kinds in several situations, and it was an issue for several players. Mistake. Learn. Improve. etc.

___

Speaking of mistakes, a recent one worth mentioning is old rubbers. Someone on here already mentioned two games at PAPA 15 that didn't have new ones. They are correct that those should be fresh. If you're running an event, just because the part isn't physically cracked or broken doesn't mean it doesn't need replaced, especially with regard to flippers. Once again, mistake, learn improve etc...

___

No real need to remove the posts on Shadow or congo entirely in any division. Even in qualifying those games are reasonable with regard to time, so what's the point? I know people can mention specific examples in tournaments where obscene adjustments have been made to bastardize games, and I'm no saint with regard to those mistakes, but just bastardizing a game for the sake of making it play as short as possible is boring and doesn't help pinball. If we were all going to get together for a giant plunge-off, we could just remove all the flippers on every game and make everything crazy hard. But watching house balls doesn't make good video and won't help bring new people into the competitive game.

In the vast majority of cases, if your game has the outlanes at the widest possible (still in the game), the slingshots tight, and the tilt clean and one-solid nudge equals a double-danger, you're in the ball park of a-div setup. The fat rubber posts are game-specific, as-is pulling posts.

Also, something worth mentioning is a game with tight slings and outlanes all the way in can still play harder and faster than a game with easy feeds, loose slings, and outlanes pulled. Players tend to get pissed when posts are gone or obvious adjustments have been made to thwart the player because those adjustments are in-their-face obvious. I get less e-mails when I leave posts in but make other adjustments (slings) as tight as possible and get the same result for the tournament. There's often ways to get the desired result without people even noticing...

___

Shakers should always be disabled, and if they're not, it's a mistake. We also "try" to disable non-essential moving parts like the car in INDY500 because it may shake the machine and cause a tilt. This is an ongoing process though, and some stuff isn't converted yet..

___

DarthXaos said:
Even on a game like Earthshaker where it's an inherent feature of the game design?

Yes. Earthshaker plays the same from a competitive perspective with or without the shaker motor. With the shaker, however, it is a liability in a number of respects (as a distraction to others competing nearby and because the continual vibration can lead to an increase in tech calls among other considerations). If someone wants to argue that having your hands shake while playing is some kind of "challenge" the game presents, I understand that opinion, but from my experience in running events, eliminating the shaker is a greater benefit to the tournament as a whole than keeping it.

I'm reading between the lines of your post that you disagree, which brings up a worthwhile point. My opinions are not the be-all and end-all of how to run tournaments. The thread was simply discussing how things are done at PAPA. There are a number of people around the country fully capable of running high quality events, and we frequently debate these types of decisions and learn from one another's experiences. I have personally learned a great deal from others and hope to continue doing so. The reason I'm answering these questions is because I believe exchanging ideas leads to improvement, both on my end and hopefully in the cases of other tournament directors. If anyone with whom I don't normally converse disagrees with any of my points above, please do so publicly or message me privately to take up the conversation. The only goal with these types of discussions is to share ideas and make competitive pinball better.

#46 9 years ago

That's an interesting way to look at tspp. I ended up having the issue of the door not opening all the way for a while and when I changed the coil to the slightly higher powered one, the door opened as it should. I wonder if there is a S/W option to disable the garage door. I guess I could just unsolder the solenoid to the door as well.

I'm gonna have to look into this one. I will say that my TSPP is nasty enough without this mod though...

1 week later
#49 9 years ago

Ball control techniques will save the day (and the universe) on AFM.

When the IFPA worlds was in Denver about a month ago I got to play with a great deal of European players and noticed a few different techniques that I had seen, but not used as often as the American players. I particularly noticed tip passes and quite a bit more patience around the flippers when the ball was moving quickly. Bounce (multiple) passes and slight nudges to get the ball from one side to the next were used with great effectiveness.

Slap saves and more dangerous techniques that were used by American players were used by Euro players, but much more judiciously, even when the tilt sensitivity was not that tempermental. Overall the decision seemed to be to use less violent and more patient techniques to let the ball come to them and their control.

Now go gits that Rule the Universe!

#51 9 years ago

For me the key is relaxing. If I can relax and not worry so damn much if the ball is going to leave the PF... I play SO much better. Many of these slow speed techniques near the flippers are really just about moving the ball about where you want it to go so you can take your next shot. I am starting to practice more games with a more patient and accepting attitude. I am not sure that this necessarily leads to higher scores, but it certainly leads to less stressful games (which is a big plus when playing tournament games).

Watch Keith Elwin win PAPA games relaxing on one leg. He does it all the time and makes it look easy. Jorgen Holm plays a very easy looking game as well, and he's f'n death on wheels in front of a pinball table.

3 years later
#54 6 years ago

Shatzing lanes with a powerball will hone your pin-fu to a sharply honed edge.

That is all.

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