Self leveling concrete. Found a video.

Use the levelers on the bottoms of the legs.

They are designed to level a pin on any surface.

I recently set up a machine in a comically unlevel garage. All it takes is a level, a wrench, and a couple minutes to adjust the leg levelers and get it perfect.

LOL Couldn't have said it better, Vid. We used to haul 30 pins to the MN State Fair and the building they were in had a horrible concrete floor. Not only did it slope from back to front but it had hills and valleys all over the f'ing place.

That is only so good. Believe me... I need to level my basement too. Subscribed and hoping for a good idea...
Dricore could work but would be ass expensive...

I always wonder how during tournaments at PAPA, they're able to move machines around without leveling them. I'd be surprised if a big industrial floor like that is very level.

I've always thought about that at PAPA. I'm not sure if the floor is level there, but you've got to figure that all the guys there (Kevin, Mark, Doug, etc.) know EXACTLY how unlevel it is, where the worst spots are, etc.

Knowing the people in the pittsburgh pinball scene I wouldnt be surprised if they put down a level subfloor.

It does look awesome, however I could see sinking 10k into just the floor with this stuff...

Basements are usually unlevel on purpose because the floor needs to be pitched towards the drains.

Should the floor ever become wet from a broken pipe or a flood, you can't have standing water.

Yoy could put down sheets of plywood just under the game's feet, say a 2 foot diameter circles...8 per sheet.

That way you could level the machine and if it moved some, it would still be on the plywood..and probably mostly level.

Robert

You could add rubber casters to the leveler feet.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=564

Oh, yeah, and you can get feet with extra long shafts.

Try those rubber pin boots that keep the pins from sliding around.

That's what all the arcades with concrete floors used to use back in the day.

Home depot has those 2'x2' OSB floor plots. They work well.

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Actually upgrade, and get the "Dri-Core" stuff -- it has a dimpled 1/4" thick plastic base that allows water to flow underneath, and has risers/levelers allowing you to compensate for an uneven floor. Have this in my 300 sq ft basement and it makes it nice and WARM (no more exposed cold concrete) and nice and level. You can also do it on the cheap with 4x8 sheets of tongue and groove OSB and then glue on your own "Platon" dimpled layer, usually used for waterproofing the outside foundation.

That is Dri-Core. See the piece turned upside down on the pile.

except to level my jackbot i have the back levels nearly all the way in and had to use 3 inch levelers on the front. my basement floor is very pitched...

Now this I am going to have to investigate! Any idea of the cost of the dricore? Pretty sure I will have to use 10 shims in places. Your platon idea could be a good deal cheaper.

It's about $6.50 for a 22"x22" square.

Not a problem.

I've had to use a 3" front leveler many times when a single leg is over a drain or service cap at a location.

Hahhh! He's watchin' concrete dry.

Put a lift in one shoe and it will look level.

You're right, I saw the stack and didn't look at the overturned one. I bought mine about 8 yrs ago when they were $4.49 a square at Menards, saw they increased shortly afterwards to $6 something (when OSB skyrocketed). Mine had the circles on them , i see yours has the newer starburst rectangle patterns.

The Platon brand actually does sell their stuff for underlayment explicitly. No glue needed, but they want you to screw the OSB then through it into the concrete. I think you could just contact cement it on the OSB like how Dri-Core is made.

http://www.certainteed.com/resources/Platon%20Flooring%20Brochure%2040-98-02D.pdf

Levelastic and a bonding agent. Brush the bonding agent wherever you're going to patch. Use a flooring trowel or a straight edge, depending on the area. They have floor patch for different thicknesses. Some are for up to 1/2", some for 1" and up etc.

I would not drill it into the floor, I was thinking liquid nail to the osb. Problem is I will need shims but they do not appear to sell them.

I would use some type of plastic shims and concrete screws. You only have to drill a 3/16 hole and they hold very well. You could probably get away with only 2 per square. This way it all comes apart very easily if need be.

I had this exact same thing in my last house. the solution i found was to put gottlieb early solid state legs on the back of the game to help fit into the banked side of the room. This also helped me out for head clearance (1900s basements typically have poor ceiling height). Of course, if you have all Gottlieb games you are hosed.

-c

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