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(Topic ID: 226394)

How do you convert a European re-import Sega to 110V?


By Ericc123

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Joeplainfield
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 2 years ago

I'm sorry if this is discussed somewhere else but everything that turned up when I searched was for Williams and other non Whitestar games. The game is Jurassic Park The Lost World if that helps and any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Eric

#2 2 years ago

Do you have the manual?

#3 2 years ago
Quoted from wdennie:

Do you have the manual?

Bought one on Ebay I should have it today when I get home.

#4 2 years ago

The manual should tell you the correct wiring for the transformer for 120-115 volts etc.
you probably also have to go in and change the language to English, and if your going to use coins, change to US.

1 month later
#5 1 year ago

So, I've installed my new transformer on my project pin but the molex connectors don't match up. It's a reimport, so I think I am supposed to rework them and I have the chart from my owners manual, but could anyone tell me what I need to buy for a connector or possibly have any pictures of theirs that I can use for reference?

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#6 1 year ago

Bump for anyone in the afternoon crowd that is feeling helpful.

#7 1 year ago

Evening bump.

#8 1 year ago

I don't have any actual experience with Data East/Sega/Stern transformer connectors but experience from Bally/Williams can be applied here.

It looks like the transformer has a Molex series 3191 plug (https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=19-09-2159).
It looks like the cabinet has a standard Molex connector plug (https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-09-2159).

I can't tell if the pins on the transformer side are male or female.

I don't think it will matter which series of connector you use - as long as they mate.

Molex series 3191 https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=19-09-2159 mates with https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=19-09-1159 as far as I can tell.

Standard Molex series https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-09-2159 mates with either https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-09-1154 or https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-09-1157 according to GPE's website.

If you re-pin you should either take a photo (or note) which color wires go where and make sure they match up. The colors and voltages are described in the manual on page 95 (that you have a photo of above) in case you're confused. If you want to be extra sure measure the voltages to check they match the manual specification before mating the connectors and powering on.

#9 1 year ago

dumbass parts ordered. Thank you so much for your help.

2 weeks later
#10 1 year ago

Ok, still working on the project pin that just keeps knocking me down. I got everything re-pinned, flipped on the switch, and still no power to anything. I took some pictures of box above the power switch. It appears to be missing a fuse and I'm not sure if that would stop the whole machine from turning on or not. If I need a fuse I'm not sure where to buy the part that holds it (the little black circle cap). Also, I know that this box says that it's for 250V do I need to take it off and do anything inside of the box to get it to the 110V?

As always any help is greatly appreciated. I really just want to get this thing to turn on at this point before I sink any more money into it.

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#11 1 year ago

Bump for anyone that can provide assistance. I bought a multi meter today so I'd like to work on this when I get home.

#13 1 year ago

Does that fuse test good? I would open that power box and take a look. You never know what you’ll find done to these re-import machines. The service outlet is usually not connected or missing altogether since it is 120v and the exports were usually 240v. I believe that the fuse value should be changed to an 8 amp for 120v operation, and the varister inside should be changed to a 120v. I should have links to all this but they are hard to find on my phone. This Sega should be pretty similar to a Bally or Williams from back in the day.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Does that fuse test good? I would open that power box and take a look. You never know what you’ll find done to these re-import machines. The service outlet is usually not connected or missing altogether since it is 120v and the exports were usually 240v. I believe that the fuse value should be changed to an 8 amp for 120v operation, and the varister inside should be changed to a 120v. I should have links to all this but they are hard to find on my phone. This Sega should be pretty similar to a Bally or Williams from back in the day.

This.. switch that fuse out for an 8 amp AGC (non slow blow) if memory serves. Also check that existing fuse for continuity. Put the dmm into diode or continuity test and touch the leads to each end of the fuse with it out of the machine. Also one of those black caps for the fuse is for the service outlet and the other is for the main game fuse. If you don't have the main game fuse plugged in it's not going to turn on. My point being take that existing fuse and pop it in on the other hole and see if that bad boy fires up (or if it pops the fuse).

#15 1 year ago

I’m going to open it up as soon as I get a day off but if you find the links I’m sure that they’d be very helpful.

#16 1 year ago

This fuse/line filter/varister info is all on that same page 95 of the manual:

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Before you power up in the future you also may want to disconnect the Molex connectors coming out of the transformer that connect up to the boards and test the pins on those connectors for the correct voltages coming out of the transformer as shown in the diagram on the right side of the same page 95.

Have you reached out to the local collector community for advice and help? Pittsburg should be crawling with them! The community is always very helpful and looking to spread the word and pass on knowledge. Plus, they like to nerd out on pinball!

1 month later
#17 1 year ago

Can anyone confirm if this is wired correctly or not? Thanks in advance.

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#18 1 year ago

Hoping for help bump.

1 week later
#19 1 year ago

i use this post as a guideline for my Sega reimport power box wiring, you can disregard the Thermistor though. Schematic on Sega do not show one so plug the other side of fuse older straight to inline filter.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reimport-hack-service-outlet-install

#20 1 year ago

Sorry I didn’t see your original post until you bumped it. I had a similar issue with a Zaccaria Spooky. Most of their other machines had a center tap transformer to drop down to North American 120V but this one didn’t. Since the incoming voltage is changed to DC power anyway, the difference between the Europe 50hz frequency and the North American 60hz didn’t matter. I just added an external step up transformer I got from Mouser to convert the 120 coming out of the wall to 240 V the machine wants I ordered a 1500VA. It’s overkill but the price difference wasn’t much different than a lower rating and they had stock. It’s been running fine for the last 10 years and would allow me to run other imports.

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