Open the back, should be like 3-4 connectors and the ground strap. Next you'll need two different size Allen's for the head removal and it will come right off. Be sure to have some help as these are no fun lifting that much weight on and off by yourself.

John

So heavy

It's just Allen bolts - think removing wpc rails.
You def need 2 people. I've done it myself but it was a bitch.

It'll sit there pleasantly, Just did mine alone and it was painful. I may or may not have lost control of the head near the end.

Not sure if mine is typical, but my 110v and speaker connectors were down in the cabinet enough that I had to pull the playfield out, which was a pain, especially after I disconnected everything in the head thinking it would drop down in there.

It should sit there pleasantly. the top part rests on black nubs

I knew you were gonna ask me that.....LOL.
7/32" on the outside and 1/4" on the inside. I've lifted them off and on by myself but it's not easy and not recommended that's for sure, only if your desperate.

John

Disconnect the cables (2 to the computer, 2-3 down to the cabinet), and grounding wire.

Leave out the rear panel and also take out the backglass. This will make it easier to grip the head.

While there, make sure the metal box for the computer is secure. There are holes on the top corners of the box where you can use zip ties, stiff wire, rope, etc to secure the box to the mounting bracket.

Slide out the playfield glass and put it far away from the game (don't lean it against the game in case something goes wrong). There are a pair of bolts on each side of the head. The bolts are really two halves of a bolt that screw together.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352-3

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Both sides have a head that has a hole for an allen key. They are slightly different sizes. If it's been years since they were last unscrewed, it may take a lot of muscle. I use a 7 pc set of allen wrenches with t-handles to take them apart; the sizes in the set are 1/4", 7/32", 3/16", 5/32", 1/8" 7/64", 3/32". I don't recall which two were needed, but they're among those sizes. T-handle wrenches are better to use to prevent damage to parts on the playfield in case something slips.

Once the bolts are removed, the head will pretty much stay where it sits.

The best method I've found to dismount the head is to move it in two stages since it's hard to reposition your grip to lift up then lower to the floor.

First, have a table or lift cart (as high as it will go) to place the head on. It's usually easiest to have the lift cart behind the game.

Then lift the head off the game, tip it backwards so it lays on its back. Just be careful about placement since the back door is still out.

Then lower the lift cart. Put down cardboard or packing blankets on the floor and tip the head over on its side. Put the doors and backglass in. Tip/lift the head back onto the cart, wrap it up with stretch wrap, and cart it away.

Put the glass back into the body cabinet. Note: don't use stretch wrap directly on the glass--it will leave marks that are hard to remove. Put down a blanket or a sheet of cardboard on the glass first before wrapping the game up in plastic. Other than that, treat the body cabinet like any other game.

You need 1/4” (for pivot bushing) and 7/32” (for button head screw) Allen wrenches to remove the head.

Sometimes they stick like hell if previous owner reefed them tight.

Welp...if it’s converted to LCD ... your job will be quite a bit easier.

The two piece aspect of it is just a pain in the ass. The body of the machine is smaller than WPC era games but that big bulbous back box really dictates how to deal with it (transport/etc). Even if it could fold over... it would be even more of a pain to deal with.

Don’t get me wrong I love my RFM but yeah two piece transportation ... crappy. So if I ever sell it ...it’s gonna be a “come and get it” sale

Use an axe.

With LCD, I disassembled and transported one myself, but reassembly you need two. The head is cumbersome.

Just label the 4-5 connectors when you take it apart and it’s really not bad.

There is a video available in the RFM section

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/63#post-5137541

there is one connector you have to cut. it doesn't use a harness connector
when remove head and place back on , it has to be perfect with another person in unison. its not easy and its a pain honestly. id never buy one again just for that reason. difficult to ship as well if you need break down and pack as the head cant be folded down and game stood vertical to pallet. its too long for standard pallet and cant take head off and place next to body on pallet as its also to long. won't fit on a 36 by 48 pallet no matter how you do it. the depth is the same height wise with head on as it is long.

Not all the connectors were in convenient places, but I didn't have to cut anything in my RFM...

If you have to cut something, you are doing it wrong!!

For the love of God, don't cut anything.

Yes heavy. I did it once remove and install myself. Never again...

Just agreeing with the above, you should not need to cut anything. I didnt on my RFM.

Exactly, I've never had to cut a harness.

John

mine had a 2 wire set that on both other ends was soldered to items. there was no connector anywhere on it and it ran up in the head from the body. i was surprised.
maybe mine was an early release or someone added em in but they looked stock on both ends.? not sure, but there was no connector. we looked thoroughly before we moved the game and were surprised.

The connector is in the cabinet down near the transformer.