As far as I know you polish it as best you can and live with it. Don’t be tempted by the fools, removing Mylar is a HUGE risk. Sure you may have a pristine playfield underneath... or you rip off parts of clear, rip off artwork and bring paint along with it and then sob for a few hours.

Polish it, clean it, wax and enjoy. A few of my Data East games have rough patches but the game plays well and with the glass on it looks fine!

I personally have used the Treasure cove polishing kit for years and find the results outstanding. A bit of labor but I have taken shot mylar and made it look as good as new. Good luck.

https://treasurecovepinball.com/polishing-kit.htm

I've seen this headlight polishing kit mentioned a few times

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/

I've used a headlight polishing kit with a orbiter disk polisher with great success.

Headlight polishing kits, and the Novus step system, are almost identical in performance.

Would not use any sand paper on mylar.

headlight kits usually start with high grit paper.. like 800, then 1500, then 3000 and finish with a polishing compound.

The great thing about polishing systems is you can always start conservative and just go more aggressive if you don't see enough improvement

Novus 2 & 3 is basically high grit liquid sandpaper.

Just remember to cover the rest playfield with something while you're working on the mylar.

Indeed, and designed for plastics.

If you are going to use a power tool to buff the mylar. there will be splatter of the polish everywhere. Mylar has a lower melting point than plastic so if buffing with a power tool do not press hard with the tool. Let the buffing surface do the work.

yup, this works great on mylar.

is there anywhere else to buy this product? every time I go to this website they are sold out

Spot the hazy 25yr old factory mylar in this video...

sanded and compounded with high grit sandpaper... compound finished with machine pads and polish

Goto walmart and pickup 2 packs of this.. https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Wetordry-Sandpaper-03006-Assorted-Fine-Grits-3-2-3-inch-x-9-inch-5-Pack/17130294 I get some of the 800 paper too. Cheapest easiest way to get multiple grits in good sizes for various pinball tasks.

I use the meuigars mirror glaze professional polishes and compounds. I have various cut levels... the 3, 5, and 7 levels I think (off the top of my head). These can be found in walmart and local stores too.. but you may have to hunt to find all the different cut levels you want.

This was the starting point - even when generally clean, it was kinda dull all over
IMG_3631.JPG

And even after stripping and polishing.. it would have ball tracks and a finish I wasn't happy with..
IMG_3635 2.JPG

So I used compound.. still had stuff I didn't like.. I started really lightly sanding the PF. Probably with the 2000 grit, and using 1500 grit in the more worn areas. Wet sanding, and just using my hand (no power tool) very very lightly wet sanding the top coat to a uniform look, then moving to the higher grit, and then compounding with a drill+pad. Honestly I can't say with 100% if I sanded the mylar (checking my photos) but pretty sure I didn't skirt it.

My recommendation, start with a polish with some heavy cut.. like this - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-M83-Mirror-Glaze-Dual-Action-Cleaner-Polish-32-fl-oz/23064432 on a rotary machine or drill pad (you can pickup a 3M drill adaptor and pad set.. and get some more 3" pads). Get a pack of Microfiber towels for buffing. Work the PF with the drill pad and the #5 level medium cut, clean up the residue, then switch to a fresh pad and us a fine scratch remover level (like level 3 in the Mirror Glaze line) and see what you get. If the imperfections or finish is not what you want, , step up the cut to a compound like the level 7, and again, follow up with the finer polish and see what you get.

Don't jump ahead unnecessarily on an unknown PF and materials. Experiment with the various cut levels of compound before moving to up to sanding. Remember in this example, I only have mylar areas - not one full mylar sheet over the full game.

If you just stick to the compounds and very light action... it's pretty idiot proof. Just keep moving uniformly and don't run the pad/material dry. With sanding... make sure you wet sand (just minimal water.. a small squirt bottle or dipping the paper is all you really need), and stick to block sanding with almost just finger pressure. Tear the paper into small strips for finger use. Unless you are trying to re-level the surface after spraying clear... you just want to remove the surface imperfections, not be bulk removing material.

Here's an image during sanding.. note the center of the PF is just dull looking
IMG_3658.JPG

IMG_3657.JPG

If the PF is out and stripped... these processes are very quick and as long as you have a pad for each cut level.. it's easy to do a trial, check your results, and simply try again if you don't like the results. If the PF is not out of the cabinet and stripped.. you will be far more hindered from getting all surfaces equally and you really should mask stuff off with tape. You *WILL* fling polish all over with the machines.

IMG_3654.JPG
(line on my shirt from compounding passes )

If you get to the sanding levels, sand up to the 2000 grit, then switch over to the high cut compound, then work your way back down to polishes. I did #7, then #5, and by the time you get to the fine scratch remover #3... it will look like a fresh clear coated PF. Wax it after that.. and you're golden.