Why build one when you can buy one cheaper then you can build one.

I usually use something like this http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2

They make them in different voltages (eg: 5v, 12v, 24v, etc) so I use the 5v ones led projects, 12v for led strips/mods etc. Just make sure the power supply does not exceed your mods voltage or you will fry the mod.

It's a 0.156" pitch header, gpe sells them: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp

Or cut the connector off the mod and connect the wires directly to the terminals on the power supply.

Depending on how much power you need, you may only need a small brick type power supply which cost 5 to 10 dollars on ebay.

Be careful running too many mods off of the pin's power system. It is easy to draw to much current and cause yourself issues.

ebay.com link: 12V 5A 60W Power Supply AC to DC Adapter for 5050 3528 Flexible LED Strip Light

Put something like that in the bottom of the cab wired to the mains line before the transformer.

If I was adding a mod and wanted to avoid overloading the power capacity of the boards I'd have the boards power a relay connected to a separate power supply. Your boards only supply power to the relay, the mod draws power from its own power supply when the relay is closed.

Computer power supplies are very cheap and supply 3.3v, 5v, and 12v.
http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connectors-pinouts.html

There are a wealth of different options here.

One of the easiest is to use an external power supply mounted inside the cabinet (mounting plate screw style like those used in cars but much smaller dependent on your power requirements) using the AC extension power outlet connection used in servicing on the front right side with the fuse/power switch panel. It is already grounded, can be adjusted to be powered by the power on/off switch, and completely and independently powered away from all PCBs.

From that point you can either make a "green board" or use something like the DK pinball 8 way splitter and MOLEX connectors and 0.156" pins to do the rest. Most mods are 12v or less, unless you are doing something really special.

This applies to nearly any type of pinball machine built after 1978. I think I even did something "super deluxe" on a Paragon once. If the game does not have an outlet you can actually tap the switch and still be safe. I don't recommend this method with EMs as there is generally little room to work, and you are stressing very old wiring that was not designed for this function.

Many times this same trick has been used to hook up external power amplifiers (with much higher voltage and amperage requirements) into pinball machines to run entire extra speaker/subwoofer systems like the photo shown and still be fully integrated into the game with isolation protection from other electronic circuit boards of the game. It won't protect against "DC thump" line noise though if there is no capacitor discharge modification of the sound circuit. It best to turn on external sound systems AFTER the machine has been powered anyway, including subwoofers to prevent potential speaker damage if sound levels are set high.

FB_IMG_1456055441707_(resized).jpg

Do you know what kind of problems? I've got a DK Pinball power tap and am running a 12v LED topper, 4 X 6.3v LEDs and two 6.3v LED strips in my Shadow. It reset the other day for the first time after being fine for about 30 plays and now I've got all kinds of errors.

First, check for shorts, but I do not believe this is your issue.
It is not most likely the DK board either.
I did have one that had solder "whiskers", but that is rare.

All WPC-S systems have underdesigned power systems which after over 20 years have degraded, resulting in common reset problems.
You are further stressing the same reset circuit lines with additional power requirements.
Both the 5/12v lines can do it, not just the 5v MPU "watchdog" circuit.
Even a 0.1v low below the minimum, can cause the "trip".

You need to rebuild the PDB (and test the MPU after the work), test the circuit voltages, or run the mods "externally".

The amount of power being consumed based on your mod listing is minimal, but the age of the machine is the culprit.

Thanks for the quick response. Is what you've suggested here pretty easy to do if I already have the power tap?

"One of the easiest is to use an external power supply mounted inside the cabinet (mounting plate screw style like those used in cars but much smaller dependent on your power requirements) using the AC extension power outlet connection used in servicing on the front right side with the fuse/power switch panel. It is already grounded, can be adjusted to be powered by the power on/off switch, and completely and independently powered away from all PCBs.
From that point you can either make a "green board" or use something like the DK pinball 8 way splitter and MOLEX connectors and 0.156" pins to do the rest. Most mods are 12v or less, unless you are doing something really special."

Yes, but I have no idea what power module you are wishing to use.

You want one that both configurable for voltage adjustment AND proper amperage requirements before you tap the leads or connections and attach via MOLEX plug into the DK board.

The amperage requirements of the DK boards and most "normal" mods (including all LEDs) is very low. If they are exceeded you will fry the board and your mods, or at best case trip all the fuses.

You need to know what volts/amps are needed as input, and I cannot remember the DK board specs off hand. You need to know them, and not exceed them. Contact the designer at DK pinball. Steve I believe. The input line voltage is regulated 12v based on the design.

All properly made power modules will provide proper regulated current and stablized voltages, so that is not a concern.

Thanks BlackKnight. Checking the DKPinball site I found some information about supplying power to their PIG2 product, and he suggested this.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11296

http://dkpinball.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Power_Chart

The only issue is that the power is on the whole time if the machine is on at the wall.

image_(resized).jpeg

image_(resized).png

You could mount this inside the bottom of the cabinet using the service outlet and heavy duty black industrial velcro.
This stuff is ridiculously strong in bond when it tangles.
The adhesive side is so strong, it will tear paint easily, bear that in mind.
Use the "fuzzy side" on the power module.
You probably could even mount on the side if needed.
Lowes or Home Depot has the velcro pads for less than $5.
I have done this non obtrusive method if you do not have a mounting plate.
This way it is easily removable if needed and not move inside the machine, and you cannot even see the velcro.
The rest is MOLEX pins and header connectors.