I have not. Unfortunately since my back surgeries my cars suffer and only get the bare minimums and look like every other car on the road :/ takes too much out of me to work the full car through the multiple passes in a single day any more

Use a regular round applicator pad or fine sponge and apply as little as possible.

Wipe off when dry. Then buff with a microfiber cloth to a shine.

Stupid question... I'm using Meguiras gold class wax, on average how long does it take to dry?

Depends on the humidity and temperture of the location.

Generally if its hazy white its dry, if its still "green" its just a mess.

This happens a lot if the wax was was applied to thick.
You only need a tiny amount.

Properly applied it should look like greasy fingerprints not icing on a cake.

On some humid days that I thought the wax was less dry than I wanted, I used a hair dryer to finish drying it.

On a 20 year old can of wax, the petroleum driers are often replaced by water from the air.
This wax is unpredictable and often leads to a big mess.

The best results are with fairly fresh wax.

Dont use wax you find out in a shed in a rusty can, or wax you got at a garage sale for 25 cents.

I hear that. It's hard enough doing that work with a healthy back.

What is wax and why should I use it?

to answer your original question, I put it on with my fingers, i like how the heat from your fingers melts it onto the PF. I use Blitz 2k.

Also keep in mind you really never have to get any closer to the posts/rails than 3/8", the ball never contacts any closer.

Carnauba wax is used in a variety automobile waxes, food products, dental floss, candles, instruments, shoe polish, and floor and furniture waxes and polishes. It is all natural, plant based wax that comes from the Carnauba Palm tree in South America. Carnauba is fairly expensive so many car products have switched to the higher performing longer lasting polymers. These are great for UV resistance as well as dirt and water repelling qualities. Many car enthusiasts use both. Polymers give optimal protection and last longer (don't wash away as easy) but the deep beautiful shine from carnauba is unbeatable.

So why wax a playfield? The deep shine is caused by an actual layer of wax, this wax does make it look nice, more importantly the wax layer acts as a barrier between the steel ball and the playfield paint. It protects the playfield adding extra life and years to your game. Dirt wipes off easily and evidence of ball travel is prevented. Eventually the wax does wear off and needs reapplied. It's a low cost simple preventative measure to get more years out of your playfield.

Why not use polymers on your game? While polymers offer some of the same protective qualities as wax, they don't leave that thick layer. The primary reason for waxing is to add the protective layer and help prevent ball wear. So a polymer might be good for some added UV protection but your primary goal would be the application of a wax for the "protective layer"

What kind to use? That's always the big debate. Choosing Carnauba is the starting point. Since most products are not meant for Pinball, trial and error is next, seeing what works for you and what doesn't. Certainly checking in areas to be sure it doesn't damage the game or its plastics, avoiding abrasives unless you want them. The problem is a large container lasts forever, and can be expensive. So trying lots of products mean lots of money. Some products out there that have no wax at all, and those are usually cleaners and will need wax added afterward.

Greg
Pinhedz.com

I would recommend following the manufacturers directions, only because products may vary.

This is it in a nut shell - Use a CLEAN microfiber towel or applicator and apply to a prepared and cleaned playfield. Apply evenly every where you want the wax, some recommend a swirl motion, some in a straight line. Allow to dry and buff of residue with a CLEAN microfiber towel to prevent additional scratching.

Its funny...... when we talk about this subject we really should seperate the question into clear coated and non cleared playfields.

Just a thought.

This was in a machine I recently purchased. Anybody have any info on this?

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Ask the colonel

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Probably a mix of a few things

It's Canadian, so its probably made from moose meat and hockey pucks.

VID, I'm sure you've answered this a hundred times, but what were they doing wrong. Were they not heating the wax up enough? Also how do you recommend heating up the wax, if at all?

No need to heat up the wax.

Just do a small 4x4" section, until you figure out how little wax you actually need.

If you get any flakes, or white dust, you used 100x the amount you actually need

Thank you

I recently got the Blitz wax from Pinball Life which Vid recommends in his Cleaning and Waxing Pinball Machines thread (nothing but the best for my grail pin!) and will be using it as soon as I finish cleaning the playfield.

I just got this today it is awesome.

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I have been using S100 also and i am happy with the results. In fact, i used it last night on my MET!

S100 is a great wax.