Please, do share. And be sure to include the MSDS.

Use what the hell ya want. Telling you it’s a quality product. I’ve had ZERO issue in 15 years. Maybe I’ll have to give it 20. My playfields are all flawless except for dimples.

I linked to it earlier in the thread.

Carnauba is rock hard in its natural form. When the leaves of the Tree of Life are harvested, the wax flakes off as the leaves dry out, or they are put into a machine that removes the wax. It comes off in hard flakes. Car Wax makers have to blend the wax with oils, petroleum distillates, or a solvent called naptha (commonly used to thin wood varnishes and paints) in order to make the wax workable.

https://www.autogeek.net/qude101.html

I did not see you link to a wax that claimed to not use any petroleum distillates.

Must not have been Blitz, because Blitz does not make any dust or flakes at all.

All my cars and trucks are black.

75% of my guitars are black

Here is was my new D'Angelico getting it's first wax job last year. No flakes, no white dust.

11dagelico (resized).jpg

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Blitz is pure jazz guitar bliss.....

Oh, thought you were asking for the MSDS for plexus.

There appears to be no MSDS's available for P21S or Blitz according to the databases I searched. An MSDS is typically required when there is something poisonous, flammable, corrosive, or reactive in a product--a lot of solvents fall under that umbrella. I don't think it's a coincidence that two completely different carnauba paste waxes don't have an MSDS published.

Maybe that’s why Plexus does not have to list it either. Hmmmmm that’s just what the manufacturer told me.

but it does

HEMICAL NAME(COMMON NAME) CAS NUMBERQUANTITYWeight %
Aliphatic petroleum distillates
64742-89-8
20-25*
Isobutane
75-28-5
10-15*
Propane
74-98-6
1-5*

None of the spray products are wax, do not claim to be, nor are the supposed to be. The sprays are either UV protectant for vinyl cabinets, or a wax safe quick wipe for the playfield, plastics, rubber. Seems there are a lot of assumptions being made and false statements. I am not here to debate which products are “the best” use what you like. I am just clearing up the FALSE statements. Making a statement that there in no wax in our .... um carnauba wax.... is interesting. I clearly you do not know.

Thanks for admitting that you are guessing.

The term petroleum distillates includes things that would not be considered "poisonous, flammable, or corrosive." And that was my entire point. Your posts were inferring that any wax that contains petroleum distillates is not a good wax, and that is wrong.

Chap Stick contains petroleum distillates. I am assuming that those are not "poisonous, flammable or corrosive" but I could be wrong.

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It was 100% definitely Blitz wax.

Like I said, this was many years ago (more than 10) so it is entirely possible, if not probable, that they have reformulated their wax so that it does not dust or attract dust like it used to.

Indeed.

That's not correct. They are flammable, hence the reason they are listed on MSDS's.

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The manufacturer told me there are many other ingredients that are not listed because they are trade secret and are not hazardous so they are not required to be on there

Not trying to debate the best, but I think he was asking about your Pinhedz Creamy Carnauba. Since you said that it contains carnauba, we are wondering how much is actually carnauba...?

Well sure there has to be other things to ad up to 100

So can anybody comment on waxing (carnauba) technique. I used to smother the thing in was so I had nice white, then polish later after drying. But I was irked by all the crap it left on the playfield rollovers that short of vacuuming off just kept coming and coming. So then I took a dab and applied to playfield. No huge haze but it’s pretty clear there is a wet layer and then afterwards it’s decently shiny after buffing a little. I like that a lot better. But what exactly is “enough” wax. I wonder if I am caught in the Three Little Bears story and haven’t hit just right. How do you judge just right ?

Forceflow and Vid are always correct

They claim the formula is exactly the same since the 1961 reformulation.

You probably bought a bootleg product, filled with Blast 1 wax.

Like I said, I could be wrong!

I am still of the opinion that all waxes contain petroleum distillates. This issue has been discussed in various auto detailing forums. I will repeat from my prior post:

Carnauba is rock hard in its natural form. When the leaves of the Tree of Life are harvested, the wax flakes off as the leaves dry out, or they are put into a machine that removes the wax. It comes off in hard flakes. Car Wax makers have to blend the wax with oils, petroleum distillates, or a solvent called naptha (commonly used to thin wood varnishes and paints) in order to make the wax workable.

So oils, petroleum distillates, or a solvent called naptha have to be used in order to make the wax workable. Naptha = petroleum distillate. Oil = petroleum distillate (unless they are using some kind of plant based oil which I doubt).

Again, please let me know what wax manufacturer is specifically claiming that they "do not use any petroleum distillates" in their wax.

So is my boss.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide/page/9#post-2734047

Someone needs to do a demo tutorial video. No one can ever agree on wax or technique

Yes, I'm sure that's it. How could someone not bootleg a $12 can of wax and make millions! Just too tempting.

This is exactly how to do it.

No mess, no argument, no disagreements:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide/page/9#post-2734047

I'm aware there needs to be other ingredients mixed in, however, the only additives I'm aware of are the ones included on the MSDS's, since those are health hazards in some way.

I just tried emailing one grand to ask about whether or not blitz wax contains petroleum distillates or not, but the address bounced

Thanks for trying Pinhedz, glad you like the products and have had a good experience. I appreciate an actual user sharing their experience.

$12 ????

Then you KNOW it was bootleg, cuz Blitz is $30 a can.

But seriously, I bought a bunch of Duracell D batteries and they leaked and killed my expensive 6-cell Maglite flashlight.

I sent the Maglite back to Duracell for "free repair or replacement" and it turns out the Duracell batteries were counterfeit.

Maglite still replaced the flashlight, and included six genuine Duracell batteries.

That's a company that stands by their counterfeit products!

If someone will bootleg a $1 battery, they will bootleg anything.....in the US marketplace:

8% of all brand name clothing is counterfeit.

4% of all pharmaceuticals are counterfeit.

7.3% of all consumer electronic products are counterfeit.

29% of all watches are counterfeit (yes, that's a crazy high number).

40% of all wallets and purses are counterfeit.

A can of Blitz 1000 used exclusively for pinball will last until the heat death of the universe, because you need to use so little wax - maybe a pinky nail's worth or less.

I see people slopping wax on like they're government contractors painting a battleship. No wonder it's dusting up like crazy.

Proper playfield waxing:

The playfield looks like it is obstructed by the mod. That should be removed and it will make the game much more enjoyable.

You are right though, it actually was nearly $30 a can even back when I bought it more than 10 years ago. Wax prices have not changed much.

And my brother loves his Rolecks watch!

Edit: and it actually is extremely easy to counterfeit a wax. Anyone can call a company like Chemical Guys and have them do a formulation for them and they can simply slap on any label that they want.

I can't think of a simpler topic pinside has made so complex...

It's not even like the world shifts for 'pinball waxes' - everything covered in this thread has been covered ad naseum in other places.

Pure wax = marketing BS, it's too hard to work. It's always blended with solvents or oils to make workable. Solvents are popular because then the wax 'dries' and hardens.

Cleaner wax = products that include polishes and waxes together to try to reduce steps. But because they include polishes, are not just a pure protection step.

Polishes = abrasives... they work by knocking down the edges of scratches. That's why they are a POLISH and not a...

Glaze = fillers that improve look and finish by depositing material to fill in swirls and lines, but do not provide any protection on their own. Many consumer polishes will include glaze to help the finished look. At it's core.. a polish is just a finer grit abrasive. It's bigger more aggressive brothers are compound pastes.

Polymers = modern alternatives to waxes that form a protective layer that aims to mimick or improve upon the finish that wax gives. usually gives more a glass look than a deep wet look that wax gives. Polymers are popular to layer to improve look and durability. Generally have a higher durability for effective shedding and shine than traditional wax.

The key when you pick to use a wax, is to pick one that is really wax, and not fluff pretending to be a wax. Hence, the big push to actually find out what is in a product, and not just it's marketing push. Many products combine materials in an aim to make things 'easier' or 'improve results' when often it's just fluff for a short term result.

None of this has changed in 10-15 years .. and besides the rides of the Polymer products in the last 20 years... none of this has changed in 50+ years.

Swissvax is the only company I've come across that labels the percentage of high grade yellow carnuba used in their wax. 40 percent carnuba seems to be around $200 for 200 ml. 8 to 15 car waxes per container. Blitz seems cheap at 30 per in that context.

Anything listed on a MSDS for wax is very likely to be a petroleum distillate, no?

I appreciate you sending an email to Blitz, I would be interested in their response, but I was asking for a wax company who claims, in their marketing (not in private) that they do not use petroleum distillates. I would think that this would be a huge marketing tool given that there is so much misconception about them being bad.

You said:

Which few specifically say that? That's what I'm asking.

I personally use Colinite Fleetwax 885. No idea the formulation, but it works excellent and is easy to work in.

I’ve tried Blitz and threw it in the garbage too. Just wasn’t very easy to use IMO and left shit everywhere.

Like 80% PD

Hazardous ingredients

Petroleum distillates, hydrotreated light

40 - 80%

Collinite is a very good coating and wax. Its non abrasive and wears well.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/collinite-paste-fleetwax-12oz.html?cm_mmc=&gclid=CjwKCAjw8_nXBRAiEiwAXWe2yT3DYkVh47lpF2rTXCKZLYeEBD4dyotAA6C-DuWucyM73kkTl6jS_BoCIW4QAvD_BwE

It wears well and colinite has a variety of heavy duty waxes and wax coatings for various uses.
I really like the one for aluminum to keep it from corroding. I use it on my RV.

Are you asking for a Carnauba wax that does NOT contain Petroleum Distillates?

There are a bunch of them.

For instance Zymol Glasur does not.

It even lists it's full ingredients on the label

Ingredients: Yellow Carnauba Wax 56% (100% yellow by volume), Montan Oil, Coconut Oil, Banana Oil, Cinnamon Oil, Propolis (derived from bees), Cetyl Esters, Cetyl Cocoamide (derived from coconut oil) and FD&C Yellow #5.

zymol_glasur_porsche_wax (resized).jpg

It does not last as long as Blitz when I tried it on some pins, but if you wanted something petroleum free, there you go.

I have a friend on this forum (tempted to call him out but I will show some restraint!) who uses Blitz and told me the same thing regarding leaving shit everywhere. He described them as tiny little balls. He says he used very little too.

Ok, so they do use a plant based oil. The irony is that Zymol is a great looking wax but is generally regarded as not lasting long at all.

Had to look up Cetyl Esters. "Cetyl Esters Wax, Synthetic, NF is also known as cetyl palmitate and is the ester from cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid."

You guys that are getting flakes or balls of wax are doing it WAY wrong, lol. Especially if you are using Blitz.

Ramrod: Vid, you brought 2 Glocks???
Vid: Yeah, of course.
R: I hate Glocks!
V: How the hell can you hate the most well designed sidearm in the world?
R: Because there is no Safety Latch. I friggin' shot myself in the face with a Glock!
V: We call that user error....

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If anything, you put too much on!

91CABC29-4398-4266-9AF4-0371063FB170 (resized).jpeg

The ceramic coatings are the newest thing in terms of paint protection.

No. Thank you. For defending me, your brand and my playfield.

Yeah, I kind of lump those together with the polymers even tho I know they are different.. lazy on my part

There is a lot to say about the ease of application for the polymers vs waxes... but I've not retired my waxes on black cars yet

Have you tried one of the consumer versions of a ceramic coating? Pretty easy to apply. Just go slow and be careful and you will have no problems. The cost is a lot higher than most waxes, but I think it's worth it, especially since I have become more lazy and don't have the time and energy to wax my vehicles every few months.

After 15 years would it still be a “trade secret”?

My point exactly.