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(Topic ID: 259306)

Hot Tip 6.3v overheating


By mark532011

9 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 7 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 months ago by slochar
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 months ago

I moved my working SS Hot Tip (Williams System 3) from my sons garage back to my place. It is now having trouble.

All GI lights work but then shut off after a minute or so. I tracked the problem down to the 6.3vac pins on the power supply board (3J3 pins 1-2) get super hot and the plastic plug softens allowing the pins to lose contact.

Those pins appear to run the GI and if I pull out all the bulbs the pins do not overheat. I thought I might have shorting bulbs but even with new bulbs the problem persists. It can't be a direct short as the pins dont get hot when no bulbs are in, but I don't see what would have changed during the move.

Any help would be appreciated!

#2 9 months ago

Normal issue on these boards. Over time the heat lessens the conductivity, which produces more heat, etc. Later games moved the GI fuse off the board. You can either do that too, or replace the pins, header, and housing. Use Trifurcons.

#3 9 months ago

hmmm, except we have been using the table for 2 years and it never did this before. I have not checked the temp of the connector before but the problem has not surfaced before this... bizarre

#4 9 months ago

I've done some more work on it. I suspect the connector has melted slightly inside as even when I replace the contacts they don't get super hot but do lose connectivity after 60-120 seconds. wiggling the wires re-establishes connectivity. So I am going to replace the whole connector and see if that solves it.

#5 9 months ago

Make sure to replace the header too or the issue will come back much quicker

#6 9 months ago

You could also replace the incandescent bulbs with warm white leds. The leds draw a lot less current. The overheating issue at the connector will be gone forever.

#7 9 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

hmmm, except we have been using the table for 2 years and it never did this before. I have not checked the temp of the connector before but the problem has not surfaced before this... bizarre

Resistance goes up as things age.

Williams always had issues with GI all the way to the end of WPC 95.

You can replace the bulbs with 47's they are dimmer but draw less current. As a compromise on my games I put 47's (or LEDs in some games) in the backbox, and the 44's on the playfield (where the greater illumination is needed).

Moving the GI off the board helps too, with some nice beefy .093 connectors.

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