(Topic ID: 100561)

Hot Bumper Coils?


By Shapeshifter

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by nick-the-greek
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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    #1 5 years ago

    I just noticed PBR sell these. Anybody used them? Opinions? Kind of tempted if they give 70's Gottlieb pop bumpers more zing.

    GTB-A4893A

    Coil A4893

    Hot Pop Bumper Coil
    -Customer Requested for giving your EM Pop Bumpers more power

    *Yellow Dot *

    $7.50ea

    #2 5 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Kind of tempted if they give 70's Gottlieb pop bumpers more zing.

    Go to Pin repair section 3 m and Clay discusses taking three rounds of wire off the pop coils to add more power.

    #3 5 years ago
    Quoted from Pin-it:

    Go to Pin repair section 3 m and Clay discusses taking three rounds of wire off the pop coils to add more power.

    Be careful though. Less wire = less resistance = more amps = burned coils

    Depending on how you look at it, you might be better off buying the coil from PBR.

    If you put the pbr coil in, you probably have a better chance at it working right than just winging it as to how many wraps you pull off. Even then, you are left with an ugly coil that you would have to re-wrap, or have it just looked hosed up.

    OTOH, if you screw it up, the worst you end up with is having to but a coil, which is what you might end up doing anyway, so why not?

    Just depends, are you buying or selling. Me? I would clean up the mechanicals of the pop bumper, if I still didn't like it, I would high tap it. I have never been unhappy with the results of that course of action.

    #4 5 years ago

    Will order some and report back at some point in the future.

    #5 5 years ago

    Depending on the game just unwrap one round.if you're not happy than do two.I did 3 on my Buckaroo years ago and it's a blast to play.

    #6 5 years ago

    Wonder if anyone did a ac→ dc conversion using a silicon bridge rectifier for the kickers and pops where there wasnt before?
    Doesnt look like it would be hard to do?

    #7 5 years ago

    I have just rebuilt the pop bumpers on my Abra Ca Dabra and noticed that where the pop is in close proximity to other rubbers no problem but due to the low set of the pops on AcD the northerly pop is fairly limited in terms of zing towards the top of the playfield. Not sure whether anyone has experienced this.

    1 month later
    #8 5 years ago

    So, I finally put some of the yellow dot pop coils in a game for an experiment. Chose a Gottlieb 70's game as 60's games seem to have faster pop bumpers for some reason. So, El Dorado has them in.

    They really do make a difference - the bumper is way more reactive. Game seems way more lively. Doesn't really make the game easier or harder.

    I can think of a few games that might be fun to try these in. As ever it's a matter of experimenting with individual games and seeing if it works. Purists I doubt will like them.

    I had yellow dot flipper coils in a game - took them out, went to orange and might go back to regular. Just want each game to be fun and challenging so lots of tinkering needed!

    #9 5 years ago
    Quoted from wayner:

    I have just rebuilt the pop bumpers on my Abra Ca Dabra and noticed that where the pop is in close proximity to other rubbers no problem but due to the low set of the pops on AcD the northerly pop is fairly limited in terms of zing towards the top of the playfield. Not sure whether anyone has experienced this.

    Sounds as if the plastic stem is not adjusted in the metal spoon properly. Loosen associated parts/brackets and move around until you get the desired results (of course all parts need to be cleaned before adjusting). It has to be centered perfectly in that spoon.

    #10 5 years ago
    Quoted from Pin-it:

    Wonder if anyone did a ac→ dc conversion using a silicon bridge rectifier for the kickers and pops where there wasnt before?

    I did this to a game a few years ago. It made them much 'zippier' but was a lot of soldering! Since then I have done the Clay 'unwrap 3 rounds' and it worked fantastic and only 1 re-solder. I carefully cut the paper wrapper with a razor and re-taped it afterwards. Anyone but a true pinhead would be hard pressed to notice.

    I've done this on numerous games (after FULL rebuild - with new bodies, new platters, new springs, new or polished rings, etc). Only game I have not done it on is Sing Along as their are so many rollovers and the kickout holes nearby and I'm worried about it changing the play too much.

    I've also added bridge rectifiers to flippers, but now I just buy the dot coils if I want more power.

    #11 5 years ago
    Quoted from Shapeshifter:

    Purists I doubt will like them.

    Uh huh. I'm really surprised Steve does this type of thing. He is a die-hard purist in many other ways. I don't like messing with the intended design. Wanna mod something? Get a hot-rod!

    #12 5 years ago
    Quoted from jrpinball:

    Uh huh. I'm really surprised Steve does this type of thing. He is a die-hard purist in many other ways. I don't like messing with the intended design. Wanna mod something? Get a hot-rod!

    I would class myself as a 95% purist

    But occasionally will do a few things if it makes the game more enjoyable. Easily reversible as well.

    #13 5 years ago

    I reckon that as long as a mod is easily reversed, it is fine. It's the idiots who screw extra posts in to the playfield and the various other botches we all no doubt see that need to be discouraged. Those are the 'modifications' are real hard to put right.
    One mod I think all early Gottliebs and any other games with line voltage on the coin doors really do need is to rewire the start, coin & slam switches to 25v and add a couple of relays with contacts to carry the line voltage. Having a metal start switch and coin mech' switch only separated from, in the UK at least, a highly lethal 240 volts, by a thin and usually very old piece of fish paper is just madness. And none of the metal, the door, coin bar etc. is earthed. More madness. I, at least, add an extra insulator between the start switch and the contact, and earth the metal. A new fish paper in the coin switch is also a good idea.

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