Go to Pin repair section 3 m and Clay discusses taking three rounds of wire off the pop coils to add more power.

Be careful though. Less wire = less resistance = more amps = burned coils

Depending on how you look at it, you might be better off buying the coil from PBR.

If you put the pbr coil in, you probably have a better chance at it working right than just winging it as to how many wraps you pull off. Even then, you are left with an ugly coil that you would have to re-wrap, or have it just looked hosed up.

OTOH, if you screw it up, the worst you end up with is having to but a coil, which is what you might end up doing anyway, so why not?

Just depends, are you buying or selling. Me? I would clean up the mechanicals of the pop bumper, if I still didn't like it, I would high tap it. I have never been unhappy with the results of that course of action.

Depending on the game just unwrap one round.if you're not happy than do two.I did 3 on my Buckaroo years ago and it's a blast to play.

Wonder if anyone did a ac→ dc conversion using a silicon bridge rectifier for the kickers and pops where there wasnt before?
Doesnt look like it would be hard to do?

I have just rebuilt the pop bumpers on my Abra Ca Dabra and noticed that where the pop is in close proximity to other rubbers no problem but due to the low set of the pops on AcD the northerly pop is fairly limited in terms of zing towards the top of the playfield. Not sure whether anyone has experienced this.

Sounds as if the plastic stem is not adjusted in the metal spoon properly. Loosen associated parts/brackets and move around until you get the desired results (of course all parts need to be cleaned before adjusting). It has to be centered perfectly in that spoon.

I did this to a game a few years ago. It made them much 'zippier' but was a lot of soldering! Since then I have done the Clay 'unwrap 3 rounds' and it worked fantastic and only 1 re-solder. I carefully cut the paper wrapper with a razor and re-taped it afterwards. Anyone but a true pinhead would be hard pressed to notice.

I've done this on numerous games (after FULL rebuild - with new bodies, new platters, new springs, new or polished rings, etc). Only game I have not done it on is Sing Along as their are so many rollovers and the kickout holes nearby and I'm worried about it changing the play too much.

I've also added bridge rectifiers to flippers, but now I just buy the dot coils if I want more power.

Uh huh. I'm really surprised Steve does this type of thing. He is a die-hard purist in many other ways. I don't like messing with the intended design. Wanna mod something? Get a hot-rod!

I reckon that as long as a mod is easily reversed, it is fine. It's the idiots who screw extra posts in to the playfield and the various other botches we all no doubt see that need to be discouraged. Those are the 'modifications' are real hard to put right.
One mod I think all early Gottliebs and any other games with line voltage on the coin doors really do need is to rewire the start, coin & slam switches to 25v and add a couple of relays with contacts to carry the line voltage. Having a metal start switch and coin mech' switch only separated from, in the UK at least, a highly lethal 240 volts, by a thin and usually very old piece of fish paper is just madness. And none of the metal, the door, coin bar etc. is earthed. More madness. I, at least, add an extra insulator between the start switch and the contact, and earth the metal. A new fish paper in the coin switch is also a good idea.