(Topic ID: 324468)

Hoping to build/buy a workshop, how small can I get away with?

By snowy_owl

1 year ago


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    There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 1 year ago

    I really want to design and build my own pinball machine. I've re-themed, rewired, and rebuilt a baby pacman pinball playfield in the small mudroom of my house, but my parents have made it clear that I need to have my own workshop before I start on my next, more ambitious (and expensive) pinball project.
    In an ideal world I would have unlimited money, time, and resources to make my own perfect homebrew workshop, but that is sadly not the case. I'm fifteen, still in high school, so both money and time can be hard to come by.
    I have considered trying to build a workshop myself since it's usually cheaper than buying a pre-built one, and I have an employee discount at my local hardware store. That being said, I lack expertise in general building, and building it myself will inevitably be a long learning process, that may not produce good results.
    I have also considered pre-built sheds, which, although more expensive, will be quicker and pretty much guarantee me a good structure, which I can improve upon later.
    My main point is I want to build a (relatively) economical workshop, but I also want to have enough space to work and have room for equipment.
    How small of a workshop is typically viable? 8x16? 12x12? Is pre-built the way to go if I have no prior experience?
    Any advice is much appreciated!

    #2 1 year ago

    Something 8x10 or 10x10 would give you ample room to tinker, and have a pin in there. If you have motor skills and a will to work, i bet you can watch a youtube video and put up a workshed quite easily.

    #3 1 year ago

    The big question is, where is this shop going?

    #4 1 year ago
    Quoted from titanpenguin:

    The big question is, where is this shop going?

    Not exactly sure what you're asking for(sorry, bear with me), it's going somewhere on our property. We're in a little bit of a valley, and we get 23 inches of rain per year, in the northwest.

    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from snowy_owl:

    Not exactly sure what you're asking for

    If your workshop needs to be heated or cooled.

    LTG : )

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    If your workshop needs to be heated or cooled.
    LTG : )

    Thanks for the clarification. It might need to be heated at times in the winter, but I don't think cooling would be necessary.

    #7 1 year ago

    And what is your proposed spending limit for this workshop?
    -Mike

    #8 1 year ago

    I admire your ambition!

    Check whether there are any permit requirements; where I live you can build a shed up to 10m^2 with no permit.

    With YouTube I’m sure you can find the info to build a shed. May need help, 4x8 sheet goods are heavy. And it won’t be cheap.

    #9 1 year ago

    If your parents will allow it, this would easily suit your needs. $699.00
    -Mike

    https://a.co/d/cW1cn7p

    Screenshot_20221023-182812_Firefox.jpgScreenshot_20221023-182812_Firefox.jpg
    #10 1 year ago

    Is there a makerspace near you? If there is, and they have some of the power tools you'll be needing, that allows your shop to be smaller.
    .................David Marston

    #11 1 year ago

    Climate will be your biggest challenge. Plywood and particle board don’t like huge temp swings and humidity.

    #12 1 year ago

    The metal shed would be great! Just need room for a table or two really.. can get away with hand tools. A vice is really nice to have for sure, on one workbench. Getting power out to the shed might be a bit costly tho, unless you run an extension cord out there or something..

    I built in my garage- it will get plenty hot in the summer afternoon and evenings - especially w/out insulation. I use a portable ac unit sometimes. In the winter, it’s a bit miserable to work w/out some kind of heat. A decent space heater would do you good I would think. If you want lights and a few outlets— I’d go with at least 2 circuits so you can run the space heater and lights and a tool w/out throwing a breaker.

    You could trench out to it and install a sub panel- but you’d need to be confident with wiring and have room on the main to accommodate the sub panel. Electrician probably gonna charge $1-2k I’d guess if it’s not a difficult install, near the house and you dig the trench? Maybe materials and permit extra $. Ideally this is the way to go.. but money isn’t easy to come by in high school either.. I’d totally go with extension cords if you could make it work and do it safely..

    #13 1 year ago

    What ever you decide. Be sure the city you live in allows it.

    LTG : )

    #14 1 year ago

    Consider a enclosed trailer. Instant gratification and can move game in rain. Move where suits your needs and no building permits . Can sell if doesn't work out.

    Shane
    .

    #15 1 year ago

    I think you should look for a rentable pre-existing space in your area before committing to building or buying. (many makerspace type places have the option to rent your own area so you can leave projects and tools, not to mention the tools and community they will have there).

    But if you are set on putting something on your parent’s property, a prebuilt shed isn’t a terrible option.

    the prebuilt sheds/ cabins that you can find are built in in factory style production lines in massive workshops. They buy a ton of material in bulk at very low prices.

    I worked with a talented contractor for years who regularly said he wouldn’t be able to build one of those sheds any cheaper, even if he paid himself minimum wage.

    Just be prepared to do the proper site work, and take some time to understand what you’d be getting. They often give you the option to buy a more expensive versions with 2x4 or better construction, and the prices will reflect that. Also you will need to consider electric, insulation, rain/ snow water routing so it doesn’t swamp.

    #16 1 year ago

    +1 for the trailer option. You can find a solid used 17-20' rv cheap. Remove some of the interior fixtures to make an open area and you're good to go.

    #17 1 year ago

    Oh yeah - With that shed you may or may not also have to pour a slab to set it on.. some extra cost to consider. An Rv would be sweet - just need to install an electrical hookup. Could tear out some things for more space to work.

    #18 1 year ago

    15yo kid is getting kicked of out working in his parents mudroom and you guys think he should buy an RV?

    #19 1 year ago

    How tall is that metal shed? I have one just like it. I'm 6'3" and I have to be conscious of hitting my head the whole time I'm in there. I couldn't imagine working in it, and doubt a pinball machine in the cabinet with the playfield up would fit.

    Anyhow OP, I suggest looking into maker spaces.

    If you go with a shed, like people mentioned, begin researching the local ordinances and permits required. Usually you can call your town/county hall and ask to speak with a planner or code inspector, and they can get you up to speed on any approvals/reviews you need to do. It can vary a lot from place to place... Some may make you put the shed on a concrete slab, and others may be cool with stacking it on concrete blocks. Obviously a huge difference in cost. There are also various considerations to where the shed is located on the property in relation to other structures, utilities, property lines, and other setback lines.

    #20 1 year ago

    You don’t have a basement at your house?

    #21 1 year ago

    You've got many things to consider, not the least of which is the crazy price
    of materials now. Another is local permitting limitations which usually let
    people build structures that are 150 sq-ft or less with no fuss.

    My advice, if this was your property and were a bit more experienced would
    be to build the biggest shop you possible could.

    Work with your parents and see if they'd be willing to support a workshop
    they could use too. If it were me I'd shoot for a 10x15' shop with a cement
    floor and metal roof.

    #22 1 year ago

    Make friends with someone at school who has space you can borrow/rent.

    Bonus points if you befriend someone who's connected to a cabinetry shop.

    #23 1 year ago

    Is there any space at school? A teacher/mentor maybe? Maybe do it at school for a class project?

    #24 1 year ago

    This is what 10 ft. long x 11 ft. wide looks like. Yes, one can delete 2 ft. for the left work bench. However, ideally I would want an additional 2 ft. wide or more to better accommodate my PF rotisserie.

    Behind me is an additional 10 ft with *equipment*; small drill press, bench grinder, bench polisher ultrasonic, air compressor… the list is endless…

    If you are looking at *shed* construction you will have issues with mice (or worse).

    Unheated out structures, and in particular, metal sheds have issues with condensation particularly in humid areas with temperature swings. I see it in my 30x40 pole barn in the spring (Ann Arbor, MI.) You will need a heater and a dehumidifier.

    Repeating LTG: “Whatever you decide. Be sure the city you live in allows it.”

    Starting small can be a good idea. However whatever you build you will most likely leave when you move. So be prepared to abandon your investment.

    “I really want to design and build my own pinball machine.” Means you’re going to need some serious consumer grade wood working tools in the future, so add another 144 sq ft.

    Power: Running an extension cord is a lousy way to run a railroad. Anything *permeant* will make you crap your pants cost wise, and most likely can’t be done anyway (code wise).

    If you think you can live with say 144 sqft, I guarantee in 2 years you will be wishing for double that.

    Of course, if your parents are willing to help with $$ then that’s a different story. From a future real estate prospective, do your best to make sure your out building is not a selling liability.

    I really wish you well

    work room (resized).jpgwork room (resized).jpg
    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from titanpenguin:

    Climate will be your biggest challenge. Plywood and particle board don’t like huge temp swings and humidity.

    This and your project’s electronics won’t like higher humidity. Neither will your tools over time.

    If you are working in a small space you won’t need much for climate control.

    You can find a really small AC unit for less than $100 at sams club etc and running it for 15 minutes to take the edge off goes a long way and you’ll be able to stay motivated to work. Won’t draw much current either.

    In a small space maybe infrared heater or something electric and no worries with carbon monoxide emissions. Plus you can put a smart switch in line to have it shut off or control with your phone in case you have that “oh crap did a forgot to turn it off” moment. Same goes with your soldering iron.

    4 months later
    #26 1 year ago

    I have continued my research, and I am planning on going ahead with this project. I modeled the framing for what I plan on building, but I will still likely make tweaks to it here and there. I'm hoping to start when the weather gets a little better and my school workload has lessened, aiming for maybe sometime in May.

    shed_draft_1_rt (resized).pngshed_draft_1_rt (resized).png
    4 months later
    #27 8 months ago

    It has certainly been longer than I would have liked, but the project has at least been started. Reduced my original 12x16 plans to 12x12 for various reasons. Laying blocks and getting them level is incredibly tedious, but I am over halfway done, so the end is in sight! After that, the next step will be to get tools and lumber for the floor.

    IMG_20230801_194815191_HDR[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20230801_194815191_HDR[1] (resized).jpg
    #28 8 months ago

    Do you have a makerspace near you? There are makerspace where I live that have all the tools and work area needed and for a fee can store you project on site until it's done.

    #29 8 months ago
    Quoted from Ten31:

    Do you have a makerspace near you? There are makerspace where I live that have all the tools and work area needed and for a fee can store you project on site until it's done.

    Not really, I wish there was. We have a sort of workshop at my high school, but it's only available during school hours, and it doesn't have much extra space for a project of this size anyway.

    #30 7 months ago
    Quoted from Ten31:

    Do you have a makerspace near you? There are makerspace where I live that have all the tools and work area needed and for a fee can store you project on site until it's done.

    Having done this in my area it is GREAT for larger scale projects (if you want to CNC for example) but it gets $$$$ fast.

    #31 7 months ago
    Quoted from snowy_owl:

    It has certainly been longer than I would have liked, but the project has at least been started. Reduced my original 12x16 plans to 12x12 for various reasons. Laying blocks and getting them level is incredibly tedious, but I am over halfway done, so the end is in sight! After that, the next step will be to get tools and lumber for the floor.
    [quoted image]

    12x12 is a very useful size. Should give you plenty of room to do what you want.

    I had a 12x12 and then built a 24x36 and gave my 12x12 to my neighbor. We grabbed a few beers, some old round fence posts and a chain and truck and pulled/rolled the shed over to his yard. Pretty fun Sunday.

    Here are a couple of pics of the old shed and the new shed next to each other.

    20170708_181748 (resized).jpeg20170708_181748 (resized).jpeg20170918_175312 (resized).jpeg20170918_175312 (resized).jpeg
    #32 7 months ago

    The foundation is the hardest part. Make certain you lock the blocks together with rebar.
    When I built my shop, used two layers of full size cement blocks offset 1/2 block.
    I cut a slot in the top of the bottom layer and put in a continuous ring of rebar
    (with ends of rebar folded over each other). Then after the second layer
    of blocks were set, put short pieces of rebar vertically in the holes then
    filled with concrete. In our area with clay soil and occasional small (hopefully)
    e-quakes, foundations will come apart fast if not held together with rebar.
    Also be sure to put steel 'L' bolts into the cement to hold your sill plates.
    I used 4x4's that had been treated to reduce the chance of rot or termites.
    Framing walls and doing the roof go fast(er). Consider putting up
    drywall as it'll look much better and thats not expensive. Hope this is useful....

    3 weeks later
    #33 7 months ago

    Got a bunch of lumber delivered today, and finished the floor framing. Planning on laying out the subfloor tomorrow.
    lumber (resized).jpglumber (resized).jpg

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    1 week later
    #34 7 months ago

    Got two walls up

    IMG_20230831_202122546[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20230831_202122546[1] (resized).jpg
    #35 6 months ago
    Quoted from snowy_owl:

    Got two walls up[quoted image]

    It might be a good idea to double up on the full length 2x4's on the outside of the door and window frames.

    I'm not a framing expert, and maybe the load wouldn't be enough to worry about, but it may be worth considering, especially if you live in snow country. I would especially be concerned about how close the door frame is to the corner without additional support.

    #36 6 months ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    It might be a good idea to double up on the full length 2x4's on the outside of the door and window frames.
    I'm not a framing expert, and maybe the load wouldn't be enough to worry about, but it may be worth considering, especially if you live in snow country. I would especially be concerned about how close the door frame is to the corner without additional support.

    I'd say he's just fine. Trimmer under the header and king stud outside that.

    #37 6 months ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    It might be a good idea to double up on the full length 2x4's on the outside of the door and window frames.
    I'm not a framing expert, and maybe the load wouldn't be enough to worry about, but it may be worth considering, especially if you live in snow country. I would especially be concerned about how close the door frame is to the corner without additional support.

    Yup he’s fine he’s got a king stud both sides its great for a shed good job

    1 week later
    13
    #38 6 months ago

    All four walls are framed

    IMG_20230910_160417324_HDR[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20230910_160417324_HDR[1] (resized).jpg
    #39 6 months ago

    Sweet looking good your getting there

    #40 6 months ago

    I can't wait to see how this thing turns out!

    #41 6 months ago

    Coming along nicely!

    #42 6 months ago

    Looks great! If you are running electric I would trench in the fall to give the lawn the best chance to recover. Even if you aren't ready to wire it now you can bury the cable - just leave plenty of slack especially at the house end.

    Curious why you put the door in the back?

    #43 6 months ago
    Quoted from boscokid:

    Looks great! If you are running electric I would trench in the fall to give the lawn the best chance to recover. Even if you aren't ready to wire it now you can bury the cable - just leave plenty of slack especially at the house end.
    Curious why you put the door in the back?

    In the long term my plan is to put up a couple solar panels on the roof and have that as my power source. May seem underpowered for a pinball workshop, but I think it should accommodate my energy needs fine. Underground cables are not an easy option, as there are no open circuits on the main house's breaker panel.
    True, the door placement was a little stupid, but I also don't really mind having to walk an extra 20 feet to get to it. The reason I put it there was because it was the only wall that was tall enough to fit said door.
    Why not orient the taller wall towards the house? Because my shed has a single sloped lean-to style roof, the slope would be facing north. Since I plan on mounting solar panels on the roof that is a no go.
    The other walls had to be shorter than is standard to keep a minimum of 2:12 pitch. The peak side wall height was limited by code requirements.
    An error in planning? Yes. But for me it's not too big of a deal.

    #44 6 months ago
    Quoted from snowy_owl:

    Underground cables are not an easy option, as there are no open circuits on the main house's breaker panel.

    Nice progress. Maybe install a sub panel to add circuits?

    3 weeks later
    #45 5 months ago

    Progress has certainly slowed down since the start of school and bad weather. The structure has been rained on several times already, and there is going to be plenty of rain in the future. I am a little concerned about it, so I'm hoping to at least put up the roof sheathing and some synthetic underlayment to keep the majority of the moisture off the floor. Hope to get some pictures soon.

    #46 5 months ago

    Finished the roof framing. Have to work tomorrow (ugh) but hoping to at least get the roof sheathing up on Sunday, maybe the underlayment if I'm lucky.

    IMG_20231013_171127461[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20231013_171127461[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20231013_171140244[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20231013_171140244[1] (resized).jpg
    #47 5 months ago
    Quoted from snowy_owl:

    Finished the roof framing. Have to work tomorrow (ugh) but hoping to at least get the roof sheathing up on Sunday, maybe the underlayment if I'm lucky.[quoted image][quoted image]

    Wow your doing great your almost there

    #48 5 months ago

    Got the roof sheathing completed. I had a friend over to help me out, so we could get the job done quicker. Unfortunately we only managed to just barely finish sheathing it before the rain came, so it still is not water tight. Better than nothing though.

    IMG_20231015_171627582[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20231015_171627582[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20231015_171641344[1] (resized).jpgIMG_20231015_171641344[1] (resized).jpg
    #49 5 months ago
    Quoted from snowy_owl:

    Got the roof sheathing completed. I had a friend over to help me out, so we could get the job done quicker. Unfortunately we only managed to just barely finish sheathing it before the rain came, so it still is not water tight. Better than nothing though.[quoted image][quoted image]

    But your getting there

    1 week later
    #50 5 months ago

    Stained the and mounted the pine trim boards, and finally got the drip edge and underlayment secured.

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