(Topic ID: 320176)

Hooking Up A Knocker

By Kingjowjow

1 year ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by Tuukka
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    #1 1 year ago

    Hey all, hooking up a new knocker coil here and just wanted to make sure I got the connections to the right spots before I solder. I got red going to 2 and black going to 1. Thanks for any feedback.

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    #2 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    Hey all, hooking up a new knocker coil here and just wanted to make sure I got the connections to the right spots before I solder. I got red going to 2 and black going to 1. Thanks for any feedback.
    [quoted image]

    Oops, wrong thread. I was looking for the one about knocking up a hooker. Carry on.

    #3 1 year ago

    What game?
    What are the colors of the wires on the other connector that this plugs into?
    Was there an old coil you took off? (take pictures before?) Did it have a diode?
    (Do you have the manual?)

    #4 1 year ago
    Quoted from Timerider:

    What game?
    What are the colors of the wires on the other connector that this plugs into?
    Was there an old coil you took off? (take pictures before?) Did it have a diode?
    (Do you have the manual?)

    Bally 1990 Dr. Dude. Here is a pic of the old knocker before I took it out.

    Screenshot_20220809-105219_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220809-105219_Gallery (resized).jpg
    #5 1 year ago
    Quoted from MattElder:

    Oops, wrong thread. I was looking for the one about knocking up a hooker. Carry on.

    Nope sorry, talking about a pinball knocker here on this thread.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    Bally 1990 Dr. Dude. Here is a pic of the old knocker before I took it out.[quoted image]

    Why did you take it out? Was the coil seized or something?

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from TheLaw:

    Why did you take it out? Was the coil seized or something?

    Yeah, there was a ton of gunk and corrosion inside the coil.

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    Yeah, there was a ton of gunk and corrosion inside the coil.

    Sounds like the coil was melted. This is generally caused by a bad diode or transistor, so you don't wanna just replace that without addressing the root cause.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

    Sounds like the coil was melted. This is generally caused by a bad diode or transistor, so you don't wanna just replace that without addressing the root cause.

    Indeed it was melted, not sure which diode or transistor to look for that is connected with the knocker.

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    #10 1 year ago

    If you have the WPC version, it is Q66, if it is the system 11 version, the knocker is Q23 according to the manuals.

    #11 1 year ago
    Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

    If you have the WPC version, it is Q66, if it is the system 11 version, the knocker is Q23 according to the manuals.

    Appreciate it, I believe I have the System 11 version

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from Kingjowjow:

    Indeed it was melted, not sure which diode or transistor to look for that is connected with the knocker.

    RC_like_the_cola answered the transistor question.

    Your old coil, no diode on it. So no diode on the new coil, and because of that it doesn't matter which wire goes to which lug.

    LTG : )

    #13 1 year ago
    Quoted from LTG:

    RC_like_the_cola answered the transistor question.
    Your old coil, no diode on it. So no diode on the new coil, and because of that it doesn't matter which wire goes to which lug.
    LTG : )

    Thank you for the helpful info

    #15 1 year ago

    So I misread this thread and was pretty excited to read the discussion. Kinda let down but glad you got the help you needed.

    #16 1 year ago

    I have always loved knockers and it doesn't matter in this case which way they are hooked up. Go for it either way!

    #17 1 year ago
    Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

    If you have the WPC version, it is Q66, if it is the system 11 version, the knocker is Q23 according to the manuals.

    In System 11 the 50V (high current) solenoids are ultimately grounded through the Auxiliary Power board. Q23 is on the CPU board and drives the grounding transistor on the AUX board.

    Quoted from LTG:

    Your old coil, no diode on it. So no diode on the new coil, and because of that it doesn't matter which wire goes to which lug.

    LTG is correct. There is no polarity requirement. The backEMF diode is on the AUX board.

    #18 1 year ago
    Quoted from pinballkim:

    So I misread this thread and was pretty excited to read the discussion. Kinda let down but glad you got the help you needed.

    I did find what I needed thank you, going to try to replace the transistor and see what happens.

    Quoted from DumbAss:

    In System 11 the 50V (high current) solenoids are ultimately grounded through the Auxiliary Power board. Q23 is on the CPU board and drives the grounding transistor on the AUX board.

    LTG is correct. There is no polarity requirement. The backEMF diode is on the AUX board.

    Thank you! I'll be replacing Q23, hopefully that fixes the issue.

    #19 1 year ago

    I can understand the need/use for knockers in arcade environments but they seem just too loud for home use. Can't exactly turn them down can you.

    Unless anyone has any ideas for quieting a knocker?

    #20 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ripper:

    I can understand the need/use for knockers in arcade environments but they seem just too loud for home use. Can't exactly turn them down can you.
    Unless anyone has any ideas for quieting a knocker?

    I like it when my wife jumps out of her skin when the knocker hits. It works every time.

    #21 1 year ago
    Quoted from Ripper:

    Unless anyone has any ideas for quieting a knocker?

    Put some adhesive felt pad to the plate that the knocker plunger srikes. But if you dont like the knocker sound, why dont you just disconnect it?

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