posted over on hook and data east boards but think better over here in its own thread so when it gets fixed easier for someone else to learn from

newbie to owning a pinball but learning a lot ..., when I got it did a shop job new lights etc and got an easy trouble shooting fix under my belt recent with a blown fuse that looked good . have been happily playing the hook for a few weeks till this

started getting a random outhole firing , did not think much of it ( not uncommon to gave random firings with data east?) now get a slam tilt error when lower skill shot switch activates (switch 31 c4,r7) , slam tilt is on same row c1 r7, checked all switches edge test and active , all seem fine, disconnecting slam tilt and coin door error still occurs, checked switch wiring for shorts and all diodes on the row

started looking in back box to run cn 8 and cn 10 matrix but noticed section of mpu board seems fried resistor 27 fried and chip below seems like it got to hot, board is hazy in the area , as well on board PIA led not lit, on playfield board in cabinet r49,r50,r51 leds not lit

so it seems like I need board work or new board , any sense in checking switch matrix at board?

do these things just happen due to transistor or board component failure or is there some other play field issue I should check?

any recommendations for board guy? thanks !!

Sent from my phone

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ok found the answer to one of my questions - cross it off the list!,

," as well on board PIA led not lit, on playfield board in cabinet r49,r50,r51 leds not lit "

from flipper winkel
"CPU Power-On LEDs.
At power-on, the CPU board performs several self tests. While watching the LEDs (Light Emitting Diode) on the CPU board, some information can be derived from them. If all the self tests pass, the LEDs illuminate in the following order at power-on.

•PIA (Peripheral Interface Adaptor) and +5 volt LED turns on immediately.
•After about 1/2 second, the PIA LED turns off.
•Blanking LED turns on next.
•+5 volt and Blanking LEDs will stay on (until the game is turned off).

The LEDs when the game is booted and running; the blanking
and +5 LEDs are on. "

thanks for the input pin guy I could have sworn they all light up on the board in the cabinet , but I guess the r means something, sometimes I am an idiot but othertimes I just try hard to be one

thanks pinball maniac if you enlarge the pic the r127 c122 and c121 I guessed to be heat damage , ( c121 dull dark brown as compared to tan c117, ) if this is normal or dirt I am happy and keep searching, will run the switch matrix at the board ,

Here is a picture of the whole board,lighting is not great ,a lot of the haze came off with alcohol, the r127 resistor looks a little funky but is not open is shorted. I checked the rows and columns at cn 10 and cn8 as outlined in flipper winkel ,on column 4(where the 31 switch is) get a bunch of ,switches reading ,most in row 1 but at least one in row 6,,I interpret this to be a board issue? Would it be a certain component? Anything else to check? Not sure I have the skills to be replacing board parts but if anyone can recommend someone ,thanks

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Sorry typing error r127 not open or shorted

Here is a pic of the whole board lighting not great, a lot of the haze or grime came off with alcohol ,when I did the check of the rows and columns at cn 10 and cn8 on column 4 (which the 31 switch is on) I got a bunch of switch readings most row 1 but at least one c7 r6,I interpret as board issue but probably wrong

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I did not solder any switches or replace any ,I did check all the diodes in the row and had to clip a few and resolder as on some of them the green wire was soldered on and not quick connected. From my reading if you have a jumper on pin 9 of cn 10 and touch pin 1-9 on cn8 in order with the banded side of the diode the display should read 1,9,17,25,33,41,49,57 I got 1,9,17 , (multiple including 1,25,33, 54,9, ,,,,,),33,41,49,57, I thought this means an issue with the board?

did not solder any green wires , when I was checking the diodes if the green wire was on an easy connect I pulled it off and checked the diode with the switch closed, on the switches with the green wires soldered I clipped the diode checked It and then resoldered the diode .

not sure what' not registering all of them" means , with the cn10 and cn 8 disconnected from the playfield any playfield issue such as the wiring on the swiches is out of the circuit, if you get multiple switch readings on column cn8 pin 4 wouldn't that mean a short or something on the board ? , if not please explain what it means , thanks john

have a jumper on pin 9 of cn 10 and touch pin 1-9 on cn8 in order with the banded side of the diode the display should read 1,9,17,25,33,41,49,57 I got 1,9,17 , (multiple including 1,25,33, 54,9, ,,,,,),33,41,49,57,

thanks for the help again , I guess what I was trying to say is that as I probed across cn8 at from 1-9 I would get just one switch closed that follows the top row of the matrix (1,9,17,25,33,41,49,57) at pin 4 instead of reading just switch 25 got multiple switches indicated as closed ( including 1,25,33,54,9 ) an issue with circuitry for column 4?

I will check the voltages at cn8 , if would be great if the specific board component causing the issues can be identified but just confirming this as a board issue, would be a big help,

I am not sure I am up to board work unless a real simple fix , would probably get someone with more expertise to do or just get a new board, might work on the old board if I went that route .

Ok so I went through the whole matrix ,seems like column 4 issue, the slam tilt issue is explained by the circled, I just saw you do boardwork maniac if you can fix send me a pm, regardless thanks for the help j

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definite difference in readings Q52 reads as 0 ohms, Q 51 and Q53 read 1-1.2 k ohms? ( 1-1.2 on 20 k ohm meter setting)

I might give it a shot , , I have a good guy in the next town over who fixes pins and does some simple board stuff that may be able to help or do for me. if you can give me a list of the components I should replace I will look into it, where do you get a q52 from?

Does stuff like this just fail or is there some other issue like on the playfield or other boards that causes the board components to fail?

thanks , are you pintech ? any parts number on the capacitors ? ,

waiting on the 2n9304 to try repair, actually bought a new board as a backup if needed, will update on progress, it is my only pin and have not touched a flipper in weeks.... going through withdrawal !!!

soldered in the Q52 , it was not pretty but I got it done, the board had a few areas where work was done in past , put the board back in.... turned on .... FIXED!! , Thanks for the help !

so last night all the switches on column 4 went out , all the pins on cn8 read about 4.5 v but pin 4 reads 3.7 v, the resistance on the q52 transistor is ? 0 ohms between middle and upper leg and 1000 between the middle and lower leg( I don't remember exactly but clearly different from the other transistors n the row and I think opposite readings to the last time it malfunctioned. is there something upstream on the board to check? ,

put the rotten dog board in so up and running but would like to try to learn more from the old board or send it to you to get fixed if you are willing to do( paid of course)