hello fellow hook owners , just picked up my first pin HOOK! , it is really fun , have waded through all pages of this thread, and plan to do the rom update to 5.01, knowing me I will need to make little mods down the road to make it mine, any thoughts on led light kits,( is there a difference of the super led kit vs regular led kit?, what size rubber for the flippers? thanks in advance

many questions to follow!

Nice game KO!, been playing my hook( 1st pin ) daily for the last two weeks. thought I was ok at pinball with decent flipper skills ..... game is set up pretty tight I think with anything more than slight nudge tilting and plays fast, I will check angle with new app on phone tonight. still running 4.08 code but have chips to upgrade

only 2 safe shots are making the left ramp or the ruffio ramp, return to the right flipper from right ramp is pretty quick and I am impressed with videos of nailing the left ramp over and over, going half way up ramp leads to stdm drain and bad things happen when you hit the posts on either side of the ramps ....

hard to nail the kicker in left upper field and getting the ball in the bumpers from that shot or up the baseball lane leads to stdm drain or outlane drains

skull shot is ok but kick out from scoop 1 out of 4 goes sdtm !!

will check angle and got some new rubber to install and will clean and wax and will install 5.01 code and see how she plays , otherwise intrigued by challenges of hook , reviews seem to say it is too easy? , will let you know when I get there!

that would be fun to have a little tourney but my last few games have been pathetic , garret, have not put in the 5.01 chips yet I assume that is what everyone has?

noticed I have a lot of wear around left upper corner vuk ? hole, I have cliffys on the skull and the scoop , don't see one for this on the cliffy site is there one from another machine that would work?

put the new chips in last night , liked the onscreen rules, , did not get a chance to play, will check on on the back right flasher

anyone have any input on the left upper corner hole protector?

enjoying the 5.01 code, hats off to Chad!!
my daughter really likes the ball saver feature and the scoring changes makes it a lot more fun, got 107 on 3 ball game woo hoo!
back right light flashes when ball is ready to be plunged and when crock time is activated

put some toys in and messing around with lighting . pics to follow.....

special thanks to hawkeyexx , for sending me a set of ruffio decals , his generosity made my day!!!

anyone have an idea on how to loosen the hex screw that holds the flipper bat rod in place? sorry if I don't have the name right but it threads thought the the split metal part that hold the rod, the end of of the screw is threaded but doesn't have a nut on it but a red plastic cap .... that screw is like welded on , it feels like I need more leverage than just using an allen key but cranking on it it feels like the other attached parts flex and something might break loose but it wont be that screw! I might order a rebuild kit to prevent downtime before I go crazy on loosening it but if anybody has an idea I would love to hear thanks!!

thanks for the help, I think I will get a rebuild kit and then revisit with a longer allen wrench or see if I can get a hex bit for a 3/8 ratchet.

Spent a lot of the weekend with the machine and little glassine envelopes, not illicits but SMD bulbs and connectors from comet!!

took all the ramps etc off to clean and replace rubbers bulbs and run a few new ones to dark spots ,and to light up some toys, a fair amount of work and cursing to get back together, just a few extra nuts and washers at the end!

a fair amount of wasted playfield space under the ramps , it would have been cool to put some feature under the ramps where there is clearance and in the section between the vuk and the 3 slots where there is just a dead end of posts.

looking at picture it looks like my windcoaster ramp is too low , the top of the skull is about even with the red rope, can anyone post a pic of what elevates the ramp on the right side of the playfield ?

nice pics astyy looking at other pics in the galley about 1/2 have the ramp sitting below the top of the skull and others have it riding above, maybe 3/4 - 1 inch inch difference between the two , personally It looks better with the ramp lower but the way everything sits on mine the 3 oclock quadrant at least needs to be higher to allow the baseball ramp to clear the windcoaster.

will mess with it tonight

flipper question
looking to rebuild the flippers on a HOOK , there are two kits offered at pinballife up to 1993 ( listed for hook) and then 1993 on. all the parts look the same other than the earlier assemblies have the spring over the plunger shaft and later have the springs attached on the outside, as well the newer kit comes with new leaf contacts. can I use the later kit? any advantage to the later assembly spring configuration? thanks

sorry to hear of your issues, got no help for you but hope it is a simple fix ! , my daughter just called and says ours is having issues , 3 balls not ejecting from kicker, some lights off , other things ugghhhh!!!

Garretswinning good luck with your issue , I found this info helpful no idea how to cut and paste from cell phone . Google data east troubleshooting, techniek.flipper winkel.
Nl

ok so i went a little crazy with the toys and the lights , replaced all the bulbs underneath the palyfeild and bavkbow with frosted smds and most of the flashers to 8 smds, added a few lights here and there to illuminate the toys and added a ball trough light and spotlights to lighten the lower playfield, not that fond of the spotlights but the art work is so nice when lighted i will live for them for now, maybe think up some crows nest rigging for them or something....

I did watch the movie not the worst i have ever seen but some of the call outs make a lot more sense now. criteria for choosing toys was should be reasonably high quality, look good and be cheap! cake toppers are a wonderful thing! the toys are a mish mosh of disney peter pan and general pirate figures. I use to make fun of a neighbor who was a train guy and he would get all excited about little mods to his layout that he would spend hours working on like a light inside the train depot building, sheesh!! Now i am that guy but it is cool because its pinball!

hook playfield 002 (resized).jpg

london 546 (resized).jpg

london 547 (resized).jpg

london 549 (resized).jpg

london 551 (resized).jpg

london 552 (resized).jpg

london 555 (resized).jpg

london 557 (resized).jpg

thanks hawkeye, agree the new code adds a lot, had a good game the other night , on multiball got the windcoaster up to 15 k and hit it 4 times in a row , ball flying up the other ramp and in the skull and scoop....game groaning and yelling at me " jackpot!!! ...bangarang!!! lights flashing off and on all over the place, I almost had a seizure@@@@!!!!, when it was all over 225 mil a lot of fun , of course I can tell you about what it would have been if only.... but I won't you know the drill! , still looking into making a decal , thanks again for your help

Congratulations chrisx!!,any particular strategy you use?

EBay and amazon ,search on peter pan cake toppers,set of 6 Disney's was 15$ ,if I remember, other ones were under pirate figurines

Attached with jj special pinball toy glue otherwise known as amazing goop,good stuff sets up quick and flexible and easily removable,pretty strong too the captain hook gets nailed all the time when the ball hops on a full plunge but still standing

Ok so last night on the way to major high score 140+ on first ball! then machine starts acting weird a coil firing randomly? somewhere , brick second ball, on third plunge to skill shot and SLAM TILT , machine shuts off, score gone !

pulled glass and lifted playfield , no obvious issue I could see, when upper skill shot switch 1 activates get slam tilt

they are both on the same row of the switch matrix how do I proceed? thanks

thanks for the reply, just the the one that is activated shows on the switch edge test,

thanks for your help I put a post up in the data east club section ( in retrospec the best place would be in the "tech" section?) with some particulars and questions if anyone can help , thanks

posted my trouble shooting issues in tech so it has a separate thread , look like board issue, thanks for all the input and feel free to provide your thoughts

here is a link
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-slam-tilt-phantom-need-board-repair-

Very impressive work trilogy!!!

ok so back playing hook after satisfying trouble shooting episodes, replaced bad transistor and then had a coil sleeve bind , and had another coil wire need resoldering. not sure fixing is as fun as playing but have learned a bunch

Notice when 3rd pirate target is dropped the ramp value will ramp up without hitting another pirate target, anyone else have this? code issue or another troubleshooting journey?

the last few nights everytime I play I am under the hood , last night bumper coil wire resoldered, and all the switches on column 4 out, q52 transistor( one I just replaced ) blown, this time I think on the other 2 legs from the first time, figured it might be an issue upstream on the board and will investigate , bit the bullet and put in the rottendog board and all good, had to put in old rom for now bent a leg on the rom chip when removing and of course it broke while bending it back, fragile suckers . to make your hook a hit in the arcade just need to put some toys on the playfield , the more the better, you will be hauling away bags of quarters in shopping carts!

'Mine was the same when I got it, everything constantly breaking. Had the same drop target issue too, a good cleaning of the leaf switches sorted that out. My wife was upset when it was fixed since she couldn't sneak those extra millions in anymore. "

will look into the leaf switches, I was thinking it might be related to the blown column but will see.

My 15 yo daughter has been taking advantage of the drop target issue and her inherited pinball skills . 310 million the other night , she does not nudge or cradle just pure flow! damn kids!!!

have not noticed the 2 drop target issue but will look for it when I get the new rom code back in,

ok so doing everybody's favorite activity SWITCH MATRIX TROUBLESHOOTING, I suspect ball trough switch culprit, as right bumper firing causes upper vuk and slingshots to fire, with no balls In trough switch edge test read normal for right bumper with balls in trough get multiple switches reading for r bumper ,

confused by switch matrix chart it lists a left and right EOS but the flippers never had eos switches ?

Asty My legs are 28.2 inche(excluding the threaded foot) for the fronts and 30.5 for the back legs

would not be surprised if mine had mongrel legs , anyone else have leg length measurements ?

still flailing at the switch matrix issue, missed that 15 -16 are actually flipper switches , , on edge switch test r flipper does not register, will look into tonight

makes sense , when I got it with the back foot threads about 1/2 height the playfield angle was well over 7 degree s

SW 16 you mean?

you have it about right, except needs to add a colored line from switch 10-50 , ( do the colors mean anything?) on the switch edge test with
no ball, just r bumper(56) reads when bumper is activated
ball in trough 3 : 56 read and 53 read
ball in trough 3 and 2: 56 and 53 and 52
ball in trough 3 and 2 and 1: 56 and 53 and 52 and 51
ball in outhole : 56 and 50

I did disconnect the column wire from the each of the trough switches and outhole in different permutations and would get extra switch readings with any of them

16 does not register at all when activated ,

have checked the diodes and switches on both columns, going by the manual matrix I did not realize 16 was actually the flipper switch so will check the wires and diodes there as well at the flipper board, , don't' know if you can pinpoint anything else from the above testing but I am optimistic the answer is related to 16!
thanks for the help

so disconnected cn1 on the flipperboard(pinled) , edge switch test now reads only switch 56 r bumper , even with trough switches activated, witth this and r flipper not registering on switch test i conclude a flipper board issue? anything to check on flipperboard?

4

Thanks astyy ,I have checked the switch matrix at the mpu board ,all read good,,will double check the bumper diode and move this over to the tech thread when I get to a computer.......... Calling pinball maniac!!

welcome , yes there is a metal plate that the end of the ball guides slide through and are supported by, it attaches at the front of the scoop entrance with the 2 small nuts

hook full 087 (resized).jpg

created a thread on the tech side for my switch matrix issues

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-switch-matrix-issues-pop-bumper-causes-mult-coils-to-fire#post-4538261

glad it is working again for you! I am always interested in learning from these problems .

what is the switch number for the " slingshot target switch " , a switch matrix is on this page a few posts above ?49

when the ball was being ejected from the vuk , would the dmd read " missed" or nothing at all ?

I would not think a rom issue if it works intermittently, have no advice other than the standard check all connectors( plug unplug and tug etc) . nothing in that data east troubleshooting file that was helpful?

hope you figure it out but there are times I wish I did not have any music!

Don't know if trying any of this would be helpful: (from data east pinball troubleshooting files )

3n. When things don't work: Sound Problems
Loud Hum from the Speakers.
The sound works, but there is a very noticible loud hum coming from the speakers. This is often a ground problem. It could be as simple as tightening the screws that secure all the printed circuit boards to the backbox. Also it could mean the large filter capacitor (usually 1000 mfd at 16 volts) on the sound board needs to be replaced. Look for a large capacitor that connects +5 volts to ground.

No Sound at All - Sound Board Voltages.
The sound board needs +5 volts, -5 volts, +12 volts, and -12 volts to operate. These voltages come from the power supply board except for -5 volts, which is created by the sound board itself. After the -12 volts gets to the sound board, it is regulated down to -5 volts using a 7905C voltage regulator at VR1. If the voltage regulator VR1 fails, this could pass -12 volts directly to chips which are expecting -5 volts, thus destroying them. This is a fairly common problem, and will disable the sound board completely. On games Batman to Batman Forever, the -5 volts goes to chips U30 and U28 (LM833). On games Laser War to Turtles (sound board 520-5002-0x), the -5 volts goes to chips 5B (4052), 3B, 6B, 7B (all MC3403).

Check for sound board voltages at the input connector to the sound board. This would be the +5, +12, and -12 volts at connector CN2 (or CN4 on sound board 520-5002-0x used on Laser War to Turtles):
◾CNx pin 1 = +5 volts
◾CNx pin 2 = Ground
◾CNx pin 3 = -12 volts
◾CNx pin 4 = NC (no connection)
◾CNx pin 5 = KEY
◾CNx pin 6 = +12 volts

Next check for -5 volts at the capacitor C49. Use a DMM, and put the red lead on the leg of this capacitor which connects to VR1. Put the black lead on the other leg of the capacitor (ground). The DMM should show -5 volts. This applies to all revisions of DataEast/Sega sound boards as used from Laser War to Batman Forever.

On games Batman to Batman Forever (all sound boards but 520-5002-0x), this procedure should be repeated for the +5 volts. This voltage is received directly from the power supply, but it is also produced from the input +12 volts through voltage regulator VR2 (7805C) on the sound board. Check for +5 volts at .1 mfd capacitor C47. Use a DMM, and put the red lead on the leg of C47 which connects to VR2. Put the black lead on the other leg (ground). The DMM should show +5 volts. This applies to all revisions of DataEast/Sega sound boards as used from Batman to Batman Forever.

No Sound at All - PAL Chips.
DataEast/Sega sound boards use specialized PAL program chips at U19 and U20 (PAL16L8). If there is no sound, and all the sound voltages are present (+5, -5, +12, -12 volts), suspect these two PAL chips next. These are custom programmed chips. They can be ordered from Stern, or custom programmed (email Jerry Claus for a quote).

ok so put up a major high score for me, 3 ball game but extra ones at like 70, 150 , and 250, also
made my own custom message!

a few weeks ago played a few games with the old code it was fun got some crazy high bonuses on crock time (i think it ramps up 5 mil everytime you hit the right ramp) but the new code is so much better overall. If i understand correctly the code changes from chad involved changing some of the parameters of the original code rather than adding new code. It would be awesome to have some of the scoring of the old code for a timed mode or similar as well as add a few more combo scoring options but i assume not easily done?

918 017 (resized).jpg

918 018 (resized).jpg

Does the coil fire when you run the coil test,

pm Meloyelo51 or I think he has a store matts basement arcade, a good guy to deal with

post pics with the art blades!

I think I might have an extra gate if you can't find one garret

looks nice , I have wondered if one could not just use some appropriately patterned wallpaper or similar and save some money as compared to " art blades"

your pirate town structure looks like it have lost most of its paint, just like mine, I am planning on repainting mine with testor paint and brush as I have no airbrush, will let you know how it comes out

thanks for the additional pics, the added pics show quite a bit more color , mine is pretty much all white except for has a red roof in the middle section, looking at pics in the gallery such as crash 1359.jpg all sections have color , do you think that is the original look or was it redone?

pirate town (resized).jpg

I have an extra NOS one and it looks like this:
l
that's a great picture of a pristine one ! looks like they were all airbrushed individually with 4 colors , the darkest areas are just a heavier coat of the dark brown ?

I am no help on the paint matching but the cabinet decals I have seen( ebay from Russia $200), look like they cover the whole cabinet sides and would not need any red paint matching. Do you have decals of just the artwork? if yes where did you get them from? thanks

I vote nay , maybe try somewhere else?

I think better, I ran a flex smd light behind the rope light to illuminate a figurine in about that area

congratulations garretsw!

congratulations on your new hook, not sure what you mean by led flippers but I have seen lighted flipper buttons at pinball life . looks like you may have room for a few more machines down the road!!

Looks great!

Beautiful,good luck with the swap!, I vote no on the protector

welxome to the club! as erikv suggests sounds like you have a short either under the playfield or in the board in the backbox. if you can figure out what triggers the slam tilt in the upper playfield that would be helpful . do the switch test ( remove balls from trough) and manual trigger test as erikv suggests
here is the switch matrix to get you started

hook jw matrix1.jpg

curious, is the skull scoop 47( under pfld trough) ?

from flipperwinkel, might be helpful, but one of the more experienced pinsiders could point you in the right direction I am sure
(I printed out all 3 parts of this and have found it handy a few times )

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index1.htm

3n. When things don't work: Sound Problems
Loud Hum from the Speakers.
The sound works, but there is a very noticible loud hum coming from the speakers. This is often a ground problem. It could be as simple as tightening the screws that secure all the printed circuit boards to the backbox. Also it could mean the large filter capacitor (usually 1000 mfd at 16 volts) on the sound board needs to be replaced. Look for a large capacitor that connects +5 volts to ground.

No Sound at All - Sound Board Voltages.
The sound board needs +5 volts, -5 volts, +12 volts, and -12 volts to operate. These voltages come from the power supply board except for -5 volts, which is created by the sound board itself. After the -12 volts gets to the sound board, it is regulated down to -5 volts using a 7905C voltage regulator at VR1. If the voltage regulator VR1 fails, this could pass -12 volts directly to chips which are expecting -5 volts, thus destroying them. This is a fairly common problem, and will disable the sound board completely. On games Batman to Batman Forever, the -5 volts goes to chips U30 and U28 (LM833). On games Laser War to Turtles (sound board 520-5002-0x), the -5 volts goes to chips 5B (4052), 3B, 6B, 7B (all MC3403).

Check for sound board voltages at the input connector to the sound board. This would be the +5, +12, and -12 volts at connector CN2 (or CN4 on sound board 520-5002-0x used on Laser War to Turtles):
◾CNx pin 1 = +5 volts
◾CNx pin 2 = Ground
◾CNx pin 3 = -12 volts
◾CNx pin 4 = NC (no connection)
◾CNx pin 5 = KEY
◾CNx pin 6 = +12 volts

Next check for -5 volts at the capacitor C49. Use a DMM, and put the red lead on the leg of this capacitor which connects to VR1. Put the black lead on the other leg of the capacitor (ground). The DMM should show -5 volts. This applies to all revisions of DataEast/Sega sound boards as used from Laser War to Batman Forever.

On games Batman to Batman Forever (all sound boards but 520-5002-0x), this procedure should be repeated for the +5 volts. This voltage is received directly from the power supply, but it is also produced from the input +12 volts through voltage regulator VR2 (7805C) on the sound board. Check for +5 volts at .1 mfd capacitor C47. Use a DMM, and put the red lead on the leg of C47 which connects to VR2. Put the black lead on the other leg (ground). The DMM should show +5 volts. This applies to all revisions of DataEast/Sega sound boards as used from Batman to Batman Forever.

No Sound at All - PAL Chips.
DataEast/Sega sound boards use specialized PAL program chips at U19 and U20 (PAL16L8). If there is no sound, and all the sound voltages are present (+5, -5, +12, -12 volts), suspect these two PAL chips next. These are custom programmed chips. They can be ordered from Stern, or custom programmed (email Jerry Claus for a quote).

Sound Problems on Checkpoint and Turtles.
Some Checkpoint and Turtles games had their sound boards mis-wired to the speakers. Make sure the game is wired like this:
◾Right Speaker +: Black-Yellow
◾Right Speaker -: Black
◾Left Speaker +: Red-Black
◾Left Speaker -: Red-White
◾Center Speaker +: Yellow-Black
◾Center Speaker -: Yellow-White
◾+ Speaker Terminal: Left lug
◾- Speaker Terminal: Right lug
Speaker polarity is determined by looking at the back of the speaker, with the lugs pointing towards the ceiling. This problem was discussed in service bulletin number 29.