It's not as daunting as it looks and probably needs a clean underneath anyway. If I remember correctly you cant take just the Windcoaster off in isolation need to undo and disassemble what is accessible, take careful notes and reverse.

When I first got Hook it frustrated me that only Skill Shot 2 was seemingly ever lit, and newbies playing mine always comment 'why is it always 2?'. I didn't realise what was awarded for hitting the skill-shot (even though written on each plastic - doh). I certainly like to see all 3 used even if only occasionally. I only recall ever seeing Shot 1 lit once in over a year that I've owned it.

Btw, my Hook has the gate on the ramp below.

Can somebody explain to me the behaviour where the ball locks in the Clock Shop VUK, then releases back into the shooter lane via the diverter please? I enjoy seeing the diverter in action, I think it's under used on this game.

Thanks I'll try that.

The other snag is the ball sometimes drops to the right off the wire form after it comes out of the right ramp loop. I'm not sure if I'm missing something to prevent this.

Edit. I have a spare of the wire form and its the same as fitted so I don't think anything is missing. Per the photo below I 'think' the ball is sometimes deflected by the switch, which is relatively stiff, then rebounds off the Windcoaster edge which is relatively close. What does this area look like on others machines please? I see the WC ramp has a crack which isn't helping pull it clear.

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Nice ideas! I was pretty sure it was fitted right but looking at that front loop it has some adjustment left/right and I can move the front over which in turn moves the back away from the Windcoaster. Probably just a couple of mm will make a difference.

I've also noticed is a bracket on the back right of the Skull with nothing attached - any idea on that?

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Hi sibi, that's interesting the art on the front of your cab doesn't have the black smudge under the Crocs mouth - compare with mine below, I'm not sure whether this was a painting error or supposed to be a shadow of his mouth.

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I see, haven't seen decals before on a Hook.

Most I've seen have the mark, there is an article online where the guy makes a nice job of painting it out;
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/cabinet/116-cabinet-touch-up-paint-hook

I'm going with the Croc mouth shadow theory and living with it

Well you weren't the only one, the guy on pinballrehab must have gone to some effort painting it out. That article had me convinced it was an error but now I look at it again it matches the shadow under the Croc too.

Perhaps I'm imagining it but if I miss the 'pity extra ball' skill shot 3 (last ball 5 on my setup) then it offers me the Pirate Town extra ball attempt shortly thereafter.

I think I've only see the 'pity multiball' skill shot 1 lit once in the year I've owned Hook.

Nice terminology Crash

I've jumped in here and not introduced myself to Hook Club.

I bought a Hook project, my first DMD game March 2015. It had water damage around the back and a few electronic faults.

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Fortunately Pete 'Best Hook in the World' B was restoring his at the same time and gave me a lot of advice. I repaired the water damage and repainted the cabinet sorted the rusty metal and it came up pretty nice for a first attempt.

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The playfield was dirty but nice underneath. So just a strip down clean and some new sling covers with bright red coats.

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All electronic faults sorted and it went to a Pinball show in October 15 for 600 plays.

My latest project is a Vector which was pretty much a basket case when I started.

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Identifying the mech's can be a bit confused in the manual - this one is 'Big Kick' shown here with a 22-600 coil

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I also have the same problem as sibi, sometimes when the ball drops thru skillshot 1 it doesn't have enough momentum to roll down and activate the switch. The trough underneath needs to be nice and smooth and polished.

And true to form here's a pic from my machine with a different coil 23-800 - not sure if this is original but most of the solenoids use this size. I'd think this is a higher resistance than 22-600 hence slightly less powerful - it always reaches the top lanes but doesn't exactly shoot up with gusto. I may try a 22-600 if I have one in my spares.

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The one glitch with my Hook is I have the original DMD and during game play it frequently freezes or garbles then resets to 'Display 401' and continues with 'Ball 1 0 Credits' rather than actual ball number/Free as when it starts. This happens a few times per ball now. The score & graphics continues so it's playable. This only happens in game and when entering initials for high score, not in attract mode.

I've tested the voltages ok at the display board, checked R95, reseated the ribbon cable and display Rom. Unfortunately I don't have spares to help troubleshoot further.

Any ideas?

I've noticed an animation on my DMD I've never spotted before 'Special Now Lit' or such like - where is the lit special?

Another option for Hook decals (and some other machines) is PeteB of Retro Refurbs in the UK. He does high end restorations so I'd expect his products to be A1 quality. This was his recent Hook;
https://www.flickr.com/photos/retrorefurbs/albums/72157670571710906

Here are the decals priced in £ which may be advantageous to anybody outside the UK;
http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/hook-data-east-pinball-cabinet-decals/

It displays this so rarely (just kind of capital text with some shading) I can't spot what's lit to aim for - can anybody help? Perhaps it's one of these Hook hurry up's that disappears as quickly.

My DMD is playing up so I'm particularly attentive to it at the moment.

Welcome to HOOK Club! Was missing in mine too, I think cos it was an easy source for Op's of a spare coil and bracket is the same as the outhole kickback (Marco has them 500-5081-00)

The original one was mounted in the bottom here (you should see 3 mounting holes in a triangle next to the speaker)
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I re-used a non DE one that mounts vertically on the side of the cab so the plunger drops back by gravity - jeesh it's good and LOUD! In the bottom photo you can see the metal plate that I assume the original mech knocked against looking at the wear.
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Here's a photo from my Hook showing the extent it fires out. In diagnostics there is a Lazer Kick test where you can keep rolling the ball down the outlane to activate it.

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Thanks, that shot took a bit of catching! I took a lot of photos when I shopped the machine - here's the Lazer Kick, it seems to be fitted into a recess so would be tricky to move back. It's similar to the Knocker mech - didn't you mention yours was missing so perhaps something is awry here.

This mech defo needs to work good to play Hook - in the game it's called the Slingshot so perhaps the reference Lazer Kick is from an earlier game such as Star wars.

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Yes different coils, they're not even consistent in the manual but the table on pg 28 is correct

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This has reminded me. I recently installed one of Inkonchitos bridge boards into my Hook and he told me that he's just released a useful tech chart for Hook available here;
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

Attached is a hi-res photo of below the pf. Also I'd recommend Inkochnito's Hook Tech Chart that shows all the wire colours for lamps, switches & mechs on one sheet;
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Data_East_Hook_Tech_Chart.pdf

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No, but I wish it was so lucky you. I've since noticed most have blue brackets, both colours look good topside imho.

Hey Hook fans, the pinball-live twitch stream of Hook play is still available to watch online;
https://www.twitch.tv/pinball_live/v/89686200

It was a bit of a challenge as the skill shot lamps weren't working.

Just perusing this HOOK for sale (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-hook-huo-data-east) and see it has a cardboard box inside the cabinet - mine has the exact same one securely bolted through the floor. Anybody know what these were for?

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Mine is doing similar, normally during gameplay it garbles the animations randomly and then resets back to the version number and continues. I've even seen animations that I don't think are in this game. After the reset the Correct ball number/Free status is always replaced with Ball 1/0 Credits but the score continues correctly.

I've tried a bunch of stuff with no success. Once the update is out I'll try a new ROM and take it from there.

Excellent news, can't wait to try it. Thank you.

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I upgraded mine to Chad/V5 Unofficial yesterday. Have only played a few games so far but the improvement is immediately noticeable and throughout, new sounds, animations, flow etc. The machine just seems less jerky and more polished overall now.

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Spent more time playing & enjoying the ChadH Hook 5. The use of sound and overall timing is far better, you know what's going on from the feedback and the new sound during Crock clock is particularly good. Shooting the targets to increase the Windcoaster is neat too - I'm not good at repetitively making the ramp but I was up to 7 million. I'm struggling now to make the Clocks (you have to shoot Rufio 3 times rather than 2 for AM/PM) but now the Try Again works you can wizz it straight around Rufio to light one which helps and also returns the ball to the right flipper setup for a nice Combo attempt. Also, the mode lights on the scoop are far more accessible being balanced and you can rack them up too.

My only (very) trivial downside is that I preferred the Tinkerbell call out on the Try Again to the new "Come back and fight".

How are others getting on?

Edit. The update is perfect, Tinkerbell still calls Try Again, and Hook Shoot Again!!!

ChriX here are a couple of snaps from mine. Bottom plastic is screwed direct to top of bumper body and the two closest standoffs sit within the bumper ring radius so don't foul it.

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Hook is 25 years old this month!

Yep that happens on my machine too @chrix. Similarly in AM/PM time mode (when the clocks do remain lit) it would be great if it indicated that the Clock shop VUK is a valid target too.

The other thing I'm not sure has changed is when you get a "Try Again" no shooter lane target is lit. So can wizz it around Ruffio to light a Clock. Wasn't sure if before you got another shooter lane target to go for?

With all this extra play I've noticed the crack of doom starting on my Rufio
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Have read this confirmed too - great time for Hook, new code, plastics, ramps and now a colour DMD soon

Pinballsp has posted information and a photo of the board design here;
http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/dmd-led-color-dmdst32-manufactured-by-pinballsp.33923/page-10#post-197840

As far as I understand it we can apply a limited colour palette throughout or to each animation until somebody with the necessary skills colours it in properly and shares the config. I'm still on the original plasma display so happy with the former option as an upgrade/replacement until such time.

Checkout the excellent Hook shop log by RetroRefurbs he used anti-static spray to remove the bubbles with before/after pictures
http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/hook-the-restoration-youve-been-waiting-for.19738/page-4#post-157495

Is this relating to your DMD scrambling/resetting (and not Chads update)? My DMD does similar during game play and after it resets it says Ball 1/Credit 0 (rather than correct ball in play and Freeplay), the score continues counting correctly. Mine did this before Chads update and resets less often since I replaced the ribbon cable.

Any luck with swapping the displays futurepinhead ? I've pretty much resigned myself to the problem being on the DMD itself and I'm waiting for pinballsp to release his 128x16 Colour DMD.

Another symptom is that if you play multiplayer then after the DMD crashes it resets each players score to 0 and only shows the players up to the current player. It all returns to normal when the next ball starts but does spoil a multiplayer game.

Thanks for reporting back and good result. I wonder if re-seating whilst swapping the display ROMs over made a difference too. Certainly on mine the new ROM when I upgraded to Hook 5 improved things. I'm waiting for PinballSPs Colour DMD to try next.

Pinballsp has posted information and a photo of the board design for 128x16 here;
http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/dmd-led-color-dmdst32-manufactured-by-pinballsp.33923/page-10#post-197840

It's the circular tree one shown in the Ebay link above.

Nice work on your cabinet, is it painted or decaled?

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Gotcha, yes a small deflector, here's some pics to help. In the 2nd pic make sure you have that pin as that can be a ball hang spot.

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I'll pay more attention, but I'm sure I've had all 3 Pirate Town specials - perhaps the extra ball offered relates to whether you were offered it on the skill shot ramp first, which only seems to happen on the last ball of a low score game (often!). What happens on mine is that sometimes Pirate Town isn't awarded but that could be a flaky drop target switch.

The extra ball insert pointing to the skull I've only ever seen lit once or twice in the years I've owned Hook and that's since Chads (excellent) V5 update.

What's also rare is being offered the "free" multiball on skillshot hole 1. Have only seen that a couple of times on last ball.

My favourite Hook shot is recovering a 2 ball multiball to 3 where you lock a ball in the VUK, then shoot the windcoaster and have the first ball returned via the (underused) diverter.

Ha, it's nearly the weekend let's play some Hook.

Wow is that backbox colour LEDs?

I got mine from a UK supplier but looks much like this one on Marcos - http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9253-9

Originally there were DE logo ones but they seem to mysteriously dissappear
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I see Pin2DMD are making progress on 128x16 support too;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stolen-pin2dmd-color-rgb-controller-from-pinballspcom/page/16#post-3987854
Ummm, the title in the URL is different to the thread

What are the pro's and cons of the two options?

Yes that happens on mine. Less noticeable is that in a 1 player game it sometimes resets to displaying Ball 1 (rather than actual ball) and Credits 0 (rather than Freeplay). The Ball in play corrects to where you were on the next eject until the DMD resets again. This 1 player symptom is less obvious and disruptive than the multiplayer scenario.

Seems to be a few of us now spotting this DMD reset issue. Mine certainly did it before Chads update and subsequently since but less so - possibly coincidental through more play of the improved game. I did try to improve the power supply side, re-capped the power board and installed one of Inkonchitos bridge boards but no significant change.

My hunch is that it happens when playing animations, somebody mentioned one not resetting when moved from Hook to TMNT. I'm going to try unplugging the rope light as a test.

My end goal is to install one of the Colour LED DMDs once available.

Whilst searching for your video, I found this cool topper lighting mod posted a few days ago...

The price I read earlier in the year was "about 195 Euros" for pinballsp version, not sure on Pin2DMD option of if either are generally available yet.
http://www.pinballinfo.com/community/threads/dmd-led-color-dmdmk66-128x32-192x64-128x16-manufactured-by-pinballsp.33923/page-14#post-212358

Actually was used on 5 : Checkpoint, TMNT, Batman, Star Trek 25th and Hook I'd happily own all of them.

Are they multi-colour though? We're so close and Hook is going to look great in colour.

The back right "Rufio" ramp was expertly reproduced and improved by freeplay40 earlier this year
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/27#post-3676844

shicketmaster I believe....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/16#post-3576499

I've posted about this DMD crash problem for a while. It happens regularly on my machine normally a couple of times per ball and spoils multiplayer games. I can't reproduce it by dropping the targets as above, it seems to happen most during fast activity or multiball. If anything it's happening less since installing the Chad Rom. I think mine is some kind of power problem.

Btw, who likes my new keyring I got for Xmas

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It'll be great to see further tweaks to this excellent update. My only minor point of feedback is that I don't think the Rufio ramp should score when you overshoot the skillshot lane (for clocks and combo shot). Tbf it might have done this before but so much was wrong with the game it was difficult to notice.

For us poor players I kinda miss racking up the scores on the windcoaster.

All power to your elbow ChadH (as some of us say over here)

Hi Chad have done some play testing today and seen as bobwiley says above, it only seems to happen when you re-plunge after a "Try Again" (sdtm) call, diverted return to the shooter lane and "Shoot Again" don't score the rufio/clocks ramp if overshot.

Also whilst testing I had an extra ball award/hole 3 on the shooter lane, if I overshot it diverted back everytime. Never seen this before was nice to see the diverter in action.

Thanks for investigating Chad, but I've noticed sometimes at Step 4) the divertor opens again and you can just keep repeating steps 3) & 4) over and over when it does it with it diverting back every time on an overshoot. I've seen this several times but not sure of the exact conditions as sometimes it does as you describe above. Perhaps this approach is intended to avoid the pro-tip.

I always thought that was saying "Brutus"

I'll help with any photos but I'm not sure where that is - back right corner? Mine (before shop) looks like this.

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I see now, your pics of behind the Rufio ramp, there's a similar circle on the lhs of the mirror which a plastic attaches.

A pinside member earlier in this thread was selling repro plastics if you search back.

Those will be diodes across the lamps typically 1N4004

Are you sure as they rarely light? On Chads code I only see one of the Pirate Town(=ship) features light perhaps once or twice per game.

These days I go to our friend Inkochnito Tech Chart for Hook, this shows the drive transistors for the relevant row/column;
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Data_East_Hook_Tech_Chart.pdf

Your symptoms are a bit weird, I had stuck on CPU lamps and it was caused by incorrect components on a brand new Rotondog CPU, unlikely for you, in your case I'd work through Clays diagnosis to test the Row/Columns to verify if the fault is on the MPU or playfield;
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index3.htm#lamp

That don't sound right, he said it's random between 8 and 80 switch hits and only appears on the last ball. Why not take the glass off and experiment flicking switches by hand? Defo works on mine and now as Chad explains I realise it is on the last ball.

hawkeyexx did you try replacing R95 on the DMD? It does look similar to the one in Clays guide
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index3.htm#dots

I wonder if the pop bumper rods are stressed once the metal yoke has failed. When I rebuilt mine all three metal yokes had gone and two fibre. Interesting to see both yellow and blue plastic bumper brackets fitted on Hook - mine has yellow. I've seen these can crack where they screw into the pf.

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Me too, I have only ever seen that lit once or twice.

One of my favourite shots is recovering 2 to 3 multiball, in 2 ball play lock ball in VUK, then shoot windcoaster and then the locked ball is returned via the diverter to shoot the skillshot again.

Combo is good too, both ramps and VUK.

New Hook sideblades available. I particularly like the map version.

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Yes I do and I think a few others. On a 1-player game the DMD resets and FREEPLAY resets to "Credits 0" and the ball in play to Ball 1 which then corrects at the start of the next ball. The problems are more pronounced on a 2+ player game.

Now you mention it I'm sure that happens on mine sometimes.

Correct, hawkeyexx is missing the blocking diode for the lamp. Here is a pic from mine to help re-wire, the Red/Violet needs moving and the diode appears reversed.

Good spot btw this should sort your weird lighting behaviour. I hope that helps guys.
(Looking at my pic I'm surprised my light works there's hardly any solder on that tab!)

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The theory, as I understand it is that without a blocking diode Row 7 (Red/Violet) is now shorted to Column 4 (Yellow/Black). So what you'll see in Test is that whenever a lamp is lit in any other column the same lamp in Column 4 will light, as described here;
https://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/148-lamp-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting#double-lamps

Best approach is to have a play in the diagnostics lamp tests. If the above theory is correct, then in single lamp tests you'll have two lamps on for every lamp and in lamp drive (column) test you'll see the lamps in Column 4 permanently lit (*I think*)

Bangerang fellas, alternate Hook translite now installed on my machine courtesy of Retro Refurbs - I really must get those map sideblades to suit

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It's on the Retro Refurbs webshop now, this link should list everything for Hook
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/?s=hook&post_type=product

Do you have the gate that stops ball rolling back under the skillshot area? There was discussion about this during Chads rewrite.

Re. shooter lane gate. If you search this whole thread for "gate" there was a lot of discussion during Chads re-write and a lot of machines that didn't have it but concluding that the gate was needed.

Pic of said gate here from Crash -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/7#post-3051582
A link to a part on Marco -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/9#post-3106615
Chads conclusion that gate is recommended -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/11#post-3218510

I've owned this machine a few years and it still confuses me! The forward/reverse button sets the mode (down=diagnostics, up=audits) and the other steps through the settings once in. What's confusing is you seem to have to step right through them or reverse out to switch to the other mode.

Strange, there is a setting for coil strength. Also the flippers should have different coil types fitted, the info in the manual isn't consistent they should be
Left - 090-5030-00
Right - 090-5020-30 (more powerful)

Are the buttons actually wired to anything? When I first got my Hook it had a fault on the flipper board, but I could still get into diagnostics or audits but it would just wizz through all the settings because of the faulty flipper.

Who can't resist a condemned mans last wish

This pic likely explains it - the flashers 2 wires are on a 3-way plug with a Z-connector so your flasher was likely just unplugged when removed from the machine. The connecting plug circled in blue is likely still dangling there. I hope this helps and best wishes for Saturday Hookmate

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I suggest check the wiring on the switches first - here's a pic, the wires are solid green (bottom lug), blue (top lug) and white doubled (middle lugs) and not obvious from the photo but the white daisy chains between the switches just above the plastic tie (I've drawn it on!) Don't confuse with the separate green earth shown right.

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The wires appear to head to the back of the machine, which is supported by the schematic showing they terminate (via a connector in the middle) at the CPU CN14 Pins 2,3,4

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Those three (+more) are on the 32VDC rail. The red wire is common and daisy chained so inspect that for loose connection. It will run from the back to the front so possibly your divertor isn't working also when the slings are out (could verify in diagnostics).

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Yours looks different to mine, I have 2 whites going to each button, one of which is the daisy chain loop. Do you have a loose white wire flapping around in that general area that may have come loose?

I see, I thought you were the guy with the faulty buttons but that's TicTacSeth who has two pics to study now

Hmmm, that threw me as your switches are mounted the other way around to mine - Black knob closest to the door hinge. Anyways, your wiring does look different, the Black knob looks the same but the Green knob appears to be wired on the bottom 2 tabs - tbh I don't know the detail for how the tabs are wired internally so that may be fine and your wiring does appear 'crusty' and original.

The next thing I'd check is continuity to the CPU PCB CN14 per the schematic snippet I posted above.

TicTacSeth the white wire on the service switches goes via the door open button so check that too - your machine looks like it's seen some weather.

Great news of the 5.01 update and I count 22 fixes/improvements at that! Was wondering ChadH is Hook your "biggest" patched game to date? It was somewhat of a blank and frayed canvas as a starting point.

We rarely discuss playing Hook in this club. I'm such a rubbish player I've never started Bangerang mode, have owned the machine a few years now and only play 3-ball

Same attitude in the UK. We have a major new pinball event starting this year and I will be taking my Hook to educate them in the way of Chad 5. Also, my machine will look quite different as I have the alternate translite and hopefully side arts blades too by then, so it will attract attention, look and play tippity top.

Black superbands on yellow DE bats for me - but I think lots of colours work on Hook. Also I replaced the stumpy black posts with blue silicon that I cut myself from custom engine tubing, still haven't made my mind up if I like the half post (left sling) vs full post (right sling), hence they're different until I decide.

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Yer my DMD has this same issue, for 1 player it's not too bad just need to remember which ball you're on (and you notice that FREE changes to Credits 0 which is useful if you didn't spot it crash), but it spoils a multiplayer game as it zeros all the other scores until the next ball starts.

I've made several improvements to the power side which has reduced the number of resets but the problem persists. Funny you mention the transformer connector as my display went completely garbled once and I fixed it by re-connecting the chunky in-line Molex connector that comes out of the transformer in the base of the cab - is that the one you mean? Ideally I'd like to swap in a known good DMD to see if it's the DMD or machine at fault but I don't have access to one.

I'm still running 5.0 but my machine doesn't exhibit the drop targets/instant info DMD reset software bug (unfortunately)

Original DE boards here too apart from Rottendog MPU

Can you post a link to that please?

I see the one you mean now 4-way, it was hidden behind the goody box but mine looks like new. I was actually referring to re-seating the larger rectangular one (12-way?) right next to it.

I set my DMM up connected across the back of the DMD J2 pin 1 5V and pin2 GND. Whilst playing the machine I seem to get a very steady 5.03-5.04 VDC no waivering whist mechs are activated etc. I think the DMD resets are mainly after playing an animation if that helps. I have fitted new ribbon cable and re-pinned most connectors and headers in the power chain.

Are you running 5.01 as one of the fixes is ...
"Adjusted logic on Drop Targets to better guarantee that they will register during Pirate Town."

strobey streamed 3 hours of Hook 5.01 on his Twitch channel earlier this week and scored in that ballpark too, it's available to watch on his channel here :-
https://www.twitch.tv/pinball_live

Hook was streamed on Pinball LIVE again yesterday - available to watch here https://www.twitch.tv/pinball_live

A question to Hook owners. I noticed watching the stream that when the Windcoaster ramp isn't made the ball rolls back to the left sling/flipper area and is saved, my machine invariably drains sdtm in this rollback case. I can likely adjust the Windcoaster entrance to be similar but was interested to know how other Hooks behave, I was of the opinion the drain was the penalty of not making the Windcoaster properly.

Thanks Chalkey I haven't paid much attention to the angle but it makes sense and must be my most common drain. My right outlane post is on maximum gap too which I see can be adjusted tighter. Don't want to make it too easy now

To update on my DMD intermittently resetting/corrupt graphics problem (back to displaying Ball 1, Credits 0 symptom). Fellow UK pinsider TinyToo visited me to test his Boston pinball LED DMD in my machine, the purpose was to t/shoot a different display problem on his LED DMD (which reproduced on my machine), however during long game play the LED DMD didn't reset once (demonstrating my DMD problem).

I don't know precisely which input voltages the Boston LED DMD uses (other than +5V) but obviously it doesn't use the high voltages that the plasma requires. I've since monitored each DMD voltage whilst playing which appear solid. So this leaves me thinking the problem is on the DMD itself. If anything it's now getting worse and at one point displayed an audit screen then reset during play which was very strange.

I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this further but it would appear that one fix is a new DMD, I'd certainly be tempted by a Colour LED option.

Thanks Crash I have been in contact with Luis previously and he's in Europe too.

The Pin2DMD guys seem to be making progress on a Colour 128x16 DMD option too, but I can't work out exactly what's needed and from where, particularly the specific controller board - this post mentions the "shopping list" to assemble one;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stolen-pin2dmd-color-rgb-controller-from-pinballspcom/page/16#post-4165729

Has anybody noticed that sometimes when the Clock Shop (VUK) is lit ready for multiball that "something" makes it go out. I haven't worked it out but think if you hit it you still get multiball started (on latest 5.01 code).

Hey Mikonos I like your cards where are they available?

A lot of us on here are running Chads V5 Hook code now, it would be great to produce a version tuned to the V5 rules.

I'm not the best on rules, but know most of those have changed with Chads V5, saying that I think most were wrong in the first place! Perhaps the guys on here can comment on better V5 rule descriptions.

Good luck with the cards