(Topic ID: 86132)
Linked Games
Hook
Data East, 1992-
Star Wars
Data East, 1992
-
Tales from the Crypt
Data East, 1993
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Quoted from Chalkey:No, that's a first I think. Welcome! Get some cliffys and new code once ChadH's latest revision is done. I should set that as an auto reply.
That’s what I heard! I think that’s who I messaged about the updated code??? I hear definitely worth it. I also need to figure out how to get into the backbox without a key. And in general, needs a good cleaning.
Quoted from zFabi:TicTacSeth
Somehow both of these games are placed exactly like this in my living room
That’s amazing haha! I need to get my basement back from our upstairs construction though ... need my Taxi to fall in line!
Quoted from lowndes8:The back box is easy under the screws holding the lock in place and it will come out
Yup, good call. I don’t know what’s up with these screws though, I can’t get a star driver into it? But one screw was already gone, so I could push it out of the way a bit, and push the backglass in to lift it up.
Man this thing has a lot of grime everywhere, need to hose it down!
Sooo, what’s the trick to get into the game settings? I can figure out what to do with two buttons ... I’ve only had Williams before. Maybe they don’t work, but I’ve tried on start up with the green in up position, down position, hitting the step button, no idea what’s going on to get in??? Can reset the high scores without it. They guy has it on free okay though that I got it from, so must work somehow, right?
Also, odd thing, in the lower cabinet I have an idc connector that isn’t plugged in to anything ... what’s that about?
Also, pop bumpers are weak, flippers too - seems to be tough to get up the left ramp ... but that second one might be a leveling issue.
Finally, looks been googling it, and I guess I have a Data East hum in the speakers.
Quoted from zFabi:After the Space Station Repro my buddy did I think I might start getting into making 3D mods myself.
I can imagine hook would be great with printed hooks on the flipper bats (slip on and velcro type)
Tell me what you think about that
Quoted from astyy:I've owned this machine a few years and it still confuses me! The forward/reverse button sets the mode (down=diagnostics, up=audits) and the other steps through the settings once in. What's confusing is you seem to have to step right through them or reverse out to switch to the other mode.
Strange, there is a setting for coil strength. Also the flippers should have different coil types fitted, the info in the manual isn't consistent they should be
Left - 090-5030-00
Right - 090-5020-30 (more powerful)
It looks like I’ll be on the hunt for why I can’t get into the settings at all. It must have been done before as it is set for free play, but I can get this thing into any type of adjustment menu???
Something interesting about the flippers, apparently the angle they are set at REALLY matters. Adjusted the line up and made a massive difference for sure! I could tell they weren’t set up ideal from the get go. Took my scores instantly to the 80-100mm area as I could finally aim shots!
... gotta find a way to get into this menu though ...
Quoted from Chalkey:Only two buttons shouldn't be hard to figure it out. What happens when you use the black and red buttons inside the coin door?
Nothing happens, which was originally why I thought there was some trick. Googled and read other people potentially had to turn off, then on and catch it at start up, but from the manual that doesn’t look right. The wires are there, but having trouble tracking the wire through to the board as it goes through wire coverings.
Possible also that not enough wires are going to the two buttons I guess, anyone have a pic of what theirs look like? What’s the next junction from the coin door? Straight to the backbox?
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Quoted from astyy:I suggest check the wiring on the switches first - here's a pic, the wires are solid green (bottom lug), blue (top lug) and white doubled (middle lugs) and not obvious from the photo but the white daisy chains between the switches just above the plastic tie (I've drawn it on!) Don't confuse with the separate green earth shown right.
The wires appear to head to the back of the machine, which is supported by the schematic showing they terminate (via a connector in the middle) at the CPU CN14 Pins 2,3,4
Hmm, mine appears to be correct then ... ? Unless you see something I don’t??
Quoted from MarAlb:tictacseth 2: Is the plunger of the knocker just stuck or is the coil burned up?
The coil looks good, but it is disconnected from the previous owner. I should check that though.
Quoted from astyy:tictacseth the white wire on the service switches goes via the door open button so check that too - your machine looks like it's seen some weather.
Ah, I’ll check that!
Quoted from Patofnaud:Tictac, that switch panel looks really beat/rusted. You may want to redo that ground lug with a new lug/screw and clean some rust off.
The ground is super rusty, if not ground properly it won’t work? I’ll try that out too!
ChalkeyFurther investigation reveals that at one point, my wires were attached the way yours are currently, which makes me wonder how that part works? Do you think I can jump them or would I have to detach and reattach? I still need to check continuity back to CN14, but need a longer wire to get me there.
1 week later
I just installed it, thanks Meloyelo51 for the chips and huge thanks to
ChadH for the amazing work on this!
I enjoyed it in the 3 weeks I’ve owned it, and still enjoy it now with the new code! I just gotta figure out the new scoring strategy. Haha
Good stuff!
Hey all, I noticed there’s a pinsound board for Hook, but I don’t see a video or any place where I can hear what it sounds like. Anyone have one of these? Worth it? I can think of a ton of call-outs from the movie I’d want to add to it. Haha
1 month later
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