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(Topic ID: 86132)

Hook Club - Hook is back!


By winteriscoming

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,054 posts
  • 180 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by Parkshow30
  • Topic is favorited by 68 Pinsiders

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There are 2054 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 42.
#1551 2 years ago

pinballjj on mine and others I've heard it can be hard setting it steep enough, perhaps that's why yours has longer legs fitted on the back at some point.

Good luck researching SW14 it's common to each "square" of phantom activation's that you're getting and shouldn't be normally closed. Perhaps you can unplug the SS flipper board whilst in switch diagnostics and test combinations.

#1552 2 years ago

makes sense , when I got it with the back foot threads about 1/2 height the playfield angle was well over 7 degree s

SW 16 you mean?

#1553 2 years ago

SW16/Right flipper - yeah. Below are the "squares" you're playing with. Depending on what Troughs are closed do only the switches on their same row/col 7 activate when the Right bumper fires?

pasted_image (resized).png

#1554 2 years ago

you have it about right, except needs to add a colored line from switch 10-50 , ( do the colors mean anything?) on the switch edge test with
no ball, just r bumper(56) reads when bumper is activated
ball in trough 3 : 56 read and 53 read
ball in trough 3 and 2: 56 and 53 and 52
ball in trough 3 and 2 and 1: 56 and 53 and 52 and 51
ball in outhole : 56 and 50

I did disconnect the column wire from the each of the trough switches and outhole in different permutations and would get extra switch readings with any of them

16 does not register at all when activated ,

have checked the diodes and switches on both columns, going by the manual matrix I did not realize 16 was actually the flipper switch so will check the wires and diodes there as well at the flipper board, , don't' know if you can pinpoint anything else from the above testing but I am optimistic the answer is related to 16!
thanks for the help

#1555 2 years ago

so disconnected cn1 on the flipperboard(pinled) , edge switch test now reads only switch 56 r bumper , even with trough switches activated, witth this and r flipper not registering on switch test i conclude a flipper board issue? anything to check on flipperboard?

4

#1556 2 years ago

This problem is strange as the symptoms suggest that the diode on SW16 (or perhaps the right bumper) is shorted, but for that to be true and the phantom activations the shorted diode switch also needs be closed. If it was stuck closed it would show as such in diagnostics but you report it never registers, so I'd focus on that problem. According to the schematic on Pg 48 SW16 has a regular blocking diode, but where is it, on the SSFB maybe? It also occurs to me that this switch has two functions at the CPU, the flipper and the lane change feature, does that work?.

This thread is very similar and was the diode on the flipper but that was in the earlier days of EOS switches. Post #3 links to a procedure to check if the problem is on the boards.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-switch-matrix-issues

Good luck it may be worth starting a thread on the tech forum this is getting beyond me.

#1557 2 years ago

Thanks astyy ,I have checked the switch matrix at the mpu board ,all read good,,will double check the bumper diode and move this over to the tech thread when I get to a computer.......... Calling pinball maniac!!

#1558 2 years ago

New Hook owner. Can anyone help with wire ramp as it exits scull, is there a mount for the ramp as it exits in the scull? mine has none and it can move in there afraid it will hit some wires. If there is a mount a pic would be great.

thanks

#1559 2 years ago

welcome , yes there is a metal plate that the end of the ball guides slide through and are supported by, it attaches at the front of the scoop entrance with the 2 small nuts

hook full 087 (resized).jpg
#1561 2 years ago

anyone with spare hook parts?

i need the bracket/plate that holds the wire ramp as it exits the skull

#1562 2 years ago

Hi fellow Hook owners. I need some help with my Hook. I was experiencing very occasional faults with the skill shot target light going out before the ball was shot and the multiball not working correctly. My first thought was a switch problem and so I checked and adjusted to ensure that all the relevant switches were working freely and ran the switch test diagnostic on the switches to check for faults, there were none found. However now I have 2 definite and consistent faults that seem to me to be related. The first fault is the aforementioned skill shot fault which is now always happening. The second is a fault with the multi ball, which is also absolutely consistent. When you trap the ball in the top left VUK to trigger the multiball, the two target lights come on, but before you can attempt the multiball skill shot, they go out and the ball is ejected via the VUK. Any suggestions, has anyone encountered this on Hook?

#1563 2 years ago

I'd almost guarantee you have a stuck switch somewhere. Sometimes it can be intermittent. Have you tried running a switch test?

#1564 2 years ago

Thanks Chalkey, yep you were right it was the slingshot target switch. I had suspected a switch problem with the intermittent fault and had run the switch test after checking the adjustment of the ball trough and lane switches. All seemed fine at that point. When the consistent faults occurred I posted here thinking I might have been barking up the wrong tree and so posted here for advice. I am now rerunning what I did in my mind wondering how and when that stuck switch occurred? Still, whatever happened Hook is now running reliably again I have had that switch out and adjusted it properly so this shouldn't happen again.

#1565 2 years ago
Quoted from TinyToo:

Thanks Chalkey, yep you were right it was the slingshot target switch. I had suspected a switch problem with the intermittent fault and had run the switch test after checking the adjustment of the ball trough and lane switches. All seemed fine at that point. When the consistent faults occurred I posted here thinking I might have been barking up the wrong tree and so posted here for advice. I am now rerunning what I did in my mind wondering how and when that stuck switch occurred? Still, whatever happened Hook is now running reliably again I have had that switch out and adjusted it properly so this shouldn't happen again.

glad it is working again for you! I am always interested in learning from these problems .

what is the switch number for the " slingshot target switch " , a switch matrix is on this page a few posts above ?49

when the ball was being ejected from the vuk , would the dmd read " missed" or nothing at all ?

#1566 2 years ago

I believe it is no. 20 Right single target, I'm afraid I can't say for sure what the DMD showed when the ball was ejected from the VUK, but I don't think it showed anything at that point.

#1567 2 years ago

New Hook owner here. I love the game. The artwork is second to none. I enjoyed the movie, so I am a big fan of the overall theme and style.

I am curious about mods and improvements. Are there any "must-haves"?

What mods are out there that you would suggest?

#1568 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

New Hook owner here. I love the game. The artwork is second to none. I enjoyed the movie, so I am a big fan of the overall theme and style.
I am curious about mods and improvements. Are there any "must-haves"?
What mods are out there that you would suggest?

The ChadH software code is an awesome improvement.
I would say adding LEDs is a great mod and a cherry red LED display.
New score cards you find in this forum.

#1569 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Are there any "must-haves"?

I agree with the above, the ChadH code is the only "must-have" if you can call that a mod. It's interesting that this game holds it's own and doesn't need modding. Saying that I have the Retro Refurbs alt translite which has really grown on me, they do art blades and have just added "Black Edition" cabinet decals.
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/?s=hook&post_type=product

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#1570 2 years ago

What does the chadh code do exactly?

#1571 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What does the chadh code do exactly?

It's described here, but basically a bunch of tweeks, fixes and improvements sympathetic to the original game intent.
http://www.pinballcode.com/hook501

#1572 2 years ago

Im officially stomped on figuring out why my sound will randomly cut out and hum or just music but call outs are said. Dunno whats causing this bazaar behavior. Could it be possible i need a new sound rom burned. I Have the newest one. Whats yall thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#1573 2 years ago

I have the Hook pinball machine with the 4.08 system. I would like to get the 5.01.
Do i need the cpu/ display version? Whats the difference?

Is this something i could install? If so, how? Do i need to make another upgrade prior to going to the 5.01?

#1574 2 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I would like to get the 5.01.

Defo it's so much better. You need a new 5.0.1 CPU ROM and 5.0.0 Display ROM and install in your machine. The process is described here :-
http://www.pinballcode.com/downloads/

Depending on where you are there are normally helpful Pinball people that will burn them for you (maybe for a fee). If you like the result send ChadH a donation for his work the link is on his pinballcode.com site.

#1575 2 years ago
Quoted from garretswinning:

Im officially stomped on figuring out why my sound will randomly cut out and hum or just music but call outs are said. Dunno whats causing this bazaar behavior. Could it be possible i need a new sound rom burned. I Have the newest one. Whats yall thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I can help with roms if you get to that point, but I would start with checking your voltages / cables. Unfortunately I am more of a Rom burner than a troubleshooter to give you exact procedures.

Quoted from Daditude:

I have the Hook pinball machine with the 4.08 system. I would like to get the 5.01.
Do i need the cpu/ display version? Whats the difference?
Is this something i could install? If so, how? Do i need to make another upgrade prior to going to the 5.01?

I responded to your PM with install instructions. It's really easy. Just keep in mind that Chad did all the hard work programming it

#1576 2 years ago
Quoted from garretswinning:

Im officially stomped on figuring out why my sound will randomly cut out and hum or just music but call outs are said. Dunno whats causing this bazaar behavior. Could it be possible i need a new sound rom burned. I Have the newest one. Whats yall thoughts? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would not think a rom issue if it works intermittently, have no advice other than the standard check all connectors( plug unplug and tug etc) . nothing in that data east troubleshooting file that was helpful?

hope you figure it out but there are times I wish I did not have any music!

#1577 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

I would not think a rom issue if it works intermittently, have no advice other than the standard check all connectors( plug unplug and tug etc) . nothing in that data east troubleshooting file that was helpful?
hope you figure it out but there are times I wish I did not have any music!

I unplugged and plugged everything. I wasnt able to find anything

#1578 2 years ago

Just ordered new ribbon cables from marco see if that does the trick

1 week later
#1579 2 years ago

Put the new ribbon cables in from marco and now seems the sound got worse. Only getting the hook call out and windcoaster sounds

#1580 2 years ago

Mine does o.k. on route...
What toys should I add?

#1581 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

I would not think a rom issue if it works intermittently, have no advice other than the standard check all connectors( plug unplug and tug etc) . nothing in that data east troubleshooting file that was helpful?
hope you figure it out but there are times I wish I did not have any music!

If you can swing it, get the pinsound board. Next to Chad's code update, its the biggest improvement for the game.

#1582 2 years ago
Quoted from garretswinning:

Put the new ribbon cables in from marco and now seems the sound got worse. Only getting the hook call out and windcoaster sounds

Don't know if trying any of this would be helpful: (from data east pinball troubleshooting files )

3n. When things don't work: Sound Problems
Loud Hum from the Speakers.
The sound works, but there is a very noticible loud hum coming from the speakers. This is often a ground problem. It could be as simple as tightening the screws that secure all the printed circuit boards to the backbox. Also it could mean the large filter capacitor (usually 1000 mfd at 16 volts) on the sound board needs to be replaced. Look for a large capacitor that connects +5 volts to ground.

No Sound at All - Sound Board Voltages.
The sound board needs +5 volts, -5 volts, +12 volts, and -12 volts to operate. These voltages come from the power supply board except for -5 volts, which is created by the sound board itself. After the -12 volts gets to the sound board, it is regulated down to -5 volts using a 7905C voltage regulator at VR1. If the voltage regulator VR1 fails, this could pass -12 volts directly to chips which are expecting -5 volts, thus destroying them. This is a fairly common problem, and will disable the sound board completely. On games Batman to Batman Forever, the -5 volts goes to chips U30 and U28 (LM833). On games Laser War to Turtles (sound board 520-5002-0x), the -5 volts goes to chips 5B (4052), 3B, 6B, 7B (all MC3403).

Check for sound board voltages at the input connector to the sound board. This would be the +5, +12, and -12 volts at connector CN2 (or CN4 on sound board 520-5002-0x used on Laser War to Turtles):
◾CNx pin 1 = +5 volts
◾CNx pin 2 = Ground
◾CNx pin 3 = -12 volts
◾CNx pin 4 = NC (no connection)
◾CNx pin 5 = KEY
◾CNx pin 6 = +12 volts

Next check for -5 volts at the capacitor C49. Use a DMM, and put the red lead on the leg of this capacitor which connects to VR1. Put the black lead on the other leg of the capacitor (ground). The DMM should show -5 volts. This applies to all revisions of DataEast/Sega sound boards as used from Laser War to Batman Forever.

On games Batman to Batman Forever (all sound boards but 520-5002-0x), this procedure should be repeated for the +5 volts. This voltage is received directly from the power supply, but it is also produced from the input +12 volts through voltage regulator VR2 (7805C) on the sound board. Check for +5 volts at .1 mfd capacitor C47. Use a DMM, and put the red lead on the leg of C47 which connects to VR2. Put the black lead on the other leg (ground). The DMM should show +5 volts. This applies to all revisions of DataEast/Sega sound boards as used from Batman to Batman Forever.

No Sound at All - PAL Chips.
DataEast/Sega sound boards use specialized PAL program chips at U19 and U20 (PAL16L8). If there is no sound, and all the sound voltages are present (+5, -5, +12, -12 volts), suspect these two PAL chips next. These are custom programmed chips. They can be ordered from Stern, or custom programmed (email Jerry Claus for a quote).

#1583 2 years ago

If anybody has a pinsound board and a Hook can you PM me? Thanks!

#1584 2 years ago

ok so put up a major high score for me, 3 ball game but extra ones at like 70, 150 , and 250, also
made my own custom message!

a few weeks ago played a few games with the old code it was fun got some crazy high bonuses on crock time (i think it ramps up 5 mil everytime you hit the right ramp) but the new code is so much better overall. If i understand correctly the code changes from chad involved changing some of the parameters of the original code rather than adding new code. It would be awesome to have some of the scoring of the old code for a timed mode or similar as well as add a few more combo scoring options but i assume not easily done?

918 017 (resized).jpg918 018 (resized).jpg
#1585 2 years ago

Need some help please. My right flipper stopped working (started by being weak then hanging up for a second, now just dead). Thought it was the flipper board, replaced that with a pinled board. No change, tried a new coil, no change, tried jumping the button/switch, no change. Does not show up on switch test when pressed either. It does light the led on the flipper board when pressed though. Any ideas what to try next? Thanks much!

#1586 2 years ago

Does the coil fire when you run the coil test,

#1587 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Does the coil fire when you run the coil test,

Thanks Pinballjj,
No flipper test in coil test that I could find but the left fires when button is pressed during coil test and right still does not.

#1588 2 years ago
Quoted from Jtm3:

Thanks Pinballjj,
No flipper test in coil test that I could find but the left fires when button is pressed during coil test and right still does not.

Do you have the switch adjusted properly

#1589 2 years ago
Quoted from garretswinning:

Do you have the switch adjusted properly

Thanks garretswinning, I did check the switch and also tried jumping it at the solder lugs just in case. Also it does register on the led on the flipper board but not in the switch test.

#1590 2 years ago
Quoted from TinyToo:Thanks Chalkey, yep you were right it was the slingshot target switch. I had suspected a switch problem with the intermittent fault and had run the switch test after checking the adjustment of the ball trough and lane switches. All seemed fine at that point. When the consistent faults occurred I posted here thinking I might have been barking up the wrong tree and so posted here for advice. I am now rerunning what I did in my mind wondering how and when that stuck switch occurred? Still, whatever happened Hook is now running reliably again I have had that switch out and adjusted it properly so this shouldn't happen again.

which slingshot were you having a problem with? I been having the same problem!

Thanks!

#1591 2 years ago

Hey everyone! I'm looking forward to my first pinball machine being Hook! I'm hoping to find one this March 2019 at the Texas Pinball convention! I really appreciate any leads you have.

1 week later
#1592 2 years ago

I was putting my playfield together and this plastic broke. Does anyone happen to have this in any condition?

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#1593 2 years ago

I just got my machine about a month ago and a rubber ring broke. It is the largest white ring on the upper right hand side of the machine (by the rufio ramp).

It seems like i need to disassemble a lot of things to get the new one on.

Does anyone have any info on it? I have looked online without success.

#1594 2 years ago
Quoted from cricrow:

Hey everyone! I'm looking forward to my first pinball machine being Hook! I'm hoping to find one this March 2019 at the Texas Pinball convention! I really appreciate any leads you have.

Brandon haney has one (he is in Austin). He builds/repairs pins and he is highly recommended. He is here on pinside or you can pm me and i can give you his info.

#1595 2 years ago

Does anybody have a list of what all types and how many of each lights there are in Hook?

#1596 2 years ago

Finally got time to dig into the sound issue with hook and checked my voltages coming into the sound board and where im supposed to have -12 i have -14.18 seems a bit high to me considering the others are dead on what they are supposed to.

#1597 2 years ago

That looks correct for an unregulated 12v supply. From my experience the negative side will be a bit more deviated from 12 than the positive side.

Here's a tip, and this is likely to be the problem. Take the glass off and manually trigger the switch on the windcoaster ramp. Does it flash the rope lights and cause the sound to cut out? If so, this is a confirmed issue with X-Pin and Rottendog power supplies. Let's start there.

#1598 2 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

That looks correct for an unregulated 12v supply. From my experience the negative side will be a bit more deviated from 12 than the positive side.
Here's a tip, and this is likely to be the problem. Take the glass off and manually trigger the switch on the windcoaster ramp. Does it flash the rope lights and cause the sound to cut out? If so, this is a confirmed issue with X-Pin and Rottendog power supplies. Let's start there.

The machine now will play the croc clock sound i believe and say hook hook upon start up and sound cuts out

#1599 2 years ago

The startup sound cutting out is normal as the CPU boots.

#1600 2 years ago
Quoted from Crash:

The startup sound cutting out is normal as the CPU boots.

Thing is thats the only sound that you will hear. After that initial its nothing. But i did play ot a little and a bit into the game i was hearing the sound trying to come on but was skipping. Is it the pal chips?

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