Looky, looky, I got Hooky!

I’m sure everyone starts with that line, but good to join the club!

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No, that's a first I think. Welcome! Get some cliffys and new code once ChadH's latest revision is done. I should set that as an auto reply.

TicTacSeth
Somehow both of these games are placed exactly like this in my living room

I hope to have Hook back together soon. The wife is ready to play it with the updates and the new code.

So many great lines from the film! Definitely get Chad's code and a pinsound board.

Do you have the gate that stops ball rolling back under the skillshot area? There was discussion about this during Chads rewrite.

I had delays on any ball in the skillshit area caused by the ball getting hung up at the front of the "ready to fire"switch as it was a tad too steep. Oddly enough,it would fire but take a couple extra seconds as if the code knew I hit skill shot 2 but it didn't register on the last switch for 3 or 4 seconds and fired anyways.

That’s what I heard! I think that’s who I messaged about the updated code??? I hear definitely worth it. I also need to figure out how to get into the backbox without a key. And in general, needs a good cleaning.

The back box is easy under the screws holding the lock in place and it will come out

Re. shooter lane gate. If you search this whole thread for "gate" there was a lot of discussion during Chads re-write and a lot of machines that didn't have it but concluding that the gate was needed.

Pic of said gate here from Crash -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/7#post-3051582
A link to a part on Marco -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/9#post-3106615
Chads conclusion that gate is recommended -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hook-club-hook-is-back/page/11#post-3218510

That’s amazing haha! I need to get my basement back from our upstairs construction though ... need my Taxi to fall in line!

Yup, good call. I don’t know what’s up with these screws though, I can’t get a star driver into it? But one screw was already gone, so I could push it out of the way a bit, and push the backglass in to lift it up.

Man this thing has a lot of grime everywhere, need to hose it down!

Sooo, what’s the trick to get into the game settings? I can figure out what to do with two buttons ... I’ve only had Williams before. Maybe they don’t work, but I’ve tried on start up with the green in up position, down position, hitting the step button, no idea what’s going on to get in??? Can reset the high scores without it. They guy has it on free okay though that I got it from, so must work somehow, right?

Also, odd thing, in the lower cabinet I have an idc connector that isn’t plugged in to anything ... what’s that about?

Also, pop bumpers are weak, flippers too - seems to be tough to get up the left ramp ... but that second one might be a leveling issue.

Finally, looks been googling it, and I guess I have a Data East hum in the speakers.

I've owned this machine a few years and it still confuses me! The forward/reverse button sets the mode (down=diagnostics, up=audits) and the other steps through the settings once in. What's confusing is you seem to have to step right through them or reverse out to switch to the other mode.

Strange, there is a setting for coil strength. Also the flippers should have different coil types fitted, the info in the manual isn't consistent they should be
Left - 090-5030-00
Right - 090-5020-30 (more powerful)

Does anyone know where to get the v5.0 home roms? I noticed the download link is no longer active and was wondering if someone had the patch files.

Thanks,

Scott

I believe 5.01 is almost done. Might be worth it waiting a little bit for all the super duper updates coming in 5.01! ChadH has been working hard on the code and can't wait to try it out!

After the Space Station Repro my buddy did I think I might start getting into making 3D mods myself.
I can imagine hook would be great with printed hooks on the flipper bats (slip on and velcro type)
Tell me what you think about that

It looks like I’ll be on the hunt for why I can’t get into the settings at all. It must have been done before as it is set for free play, but I can get this thing into any type of adjustment menu???

Something interesting about the flippers, apparently the angle they are set at REALLY matters. Adjusted the line up and made a massive difference for sure! I could tell they weren’t set up ideal from the get go. Took my scores instantly to the 80-100mm area as I could finally aim shots!

... gotta find a way to get into this menu though ...

Only two buttons shouldn't be hard to figure it out. What happens when you use the black and red buttons inside the coin door?

Are the buttons actually wired to anything? When I first got my Hook it had a fault on the flipper board, but I could still get into diagnostics or audits but it would just wizz through all the settings because of the faulty flipper.

Hi All, I'm very happy to say that I've joined the Hook club, my wife is too as Hook is already her favourite pin by far. I have a question for you guys. The hi-scores are currently set from 200 million to 450 million. The manual says that the factory setting for these is from 65 million to 85 million. I've tried a factory restore which didn't affect these scores. I've gone into the scores individually, but you can only seem to increment them. Am I missing something here, I would like to set these scores lower to give us a chance to record our high scores to see how we progress?

I think they decrease if you have the black service menu button down while you hit the start button. It takes a long time to get them down. Welcome to the club!

Nothing happens, which was originally why I thought there was some trick. Googled and read other people potentially had to turn off, then on and catch it at start up, but from the manual that doesn’t look right. The wires are there, but having trouble tracking the wire through to the board as it goes through wire coverings.

Possible also that not enough wires are going to the two buttons I guess, anyone have a pic of what theirs look like? What’s the next junction from the coin door? Straight to the backbox?

Or grab a beer and hold the button down until it flips over to zero. U only have to do it for the top score, Pan the Man. U can leave the rest where they are and the top scores will save.

Who can't resist a condemned mans last wish

This pic likely explains it - the flashers 2 wires are on a 3-way plug with a Z-connector so your flasher was likely just unplugged when removed from the machine. The connecting plug circled in blue is likely still dangling there. I hope this helps and best wishes for Saturday Hookmate

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Just a quick question, what could it be if my two slings and the upper bumper don't work or just sporadically?
Are they on the same connector?
The other bumpers work fine

I suggest check the wiring on the switches first - here's a pic, the wires are solid green (bottom lug), blue (top lug) and white doubled (middle lugs) and not obvious from the photo but the white daisy chains between the switches just above the plastic tie (I've drawn it on!) Don't confuse with the separate green earth shown right.

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The wires appear to head to the back of the machine, which is supported by the schematic showing they terminate (via a connector in the middle) at the CPU CN14 Pins 2,3,4

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Those three (+more) are on the 32VDC rail. The red wire is common and daisy chained so inspect that for loose connection. It will run from the back to the front so possibly your divertor isn't working also when the slings are out (could verify in diagnostics).

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Menu buttons. The white is daisy chained.

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Yours looks different to mine, I have 2 whites going to each button, one of which is the daisy chain loop. Do you have a loose white wire flapping around in that general area that may have come loose?

Nope, that's where it terminates and everything looks right. All the other buttons and mechs are functioning as far as I know. Mine looks like it traces back to the "coin door open" button, where does yours go from the menu buttons? Might be a USA vs. EU thing with the coin mechs or something.

Quick note: For the poster above trying to make the "GC" and highscores more attainable I verified you can de-increment the high score by depressing the "up/down" menu button and hitting the start button. It still takes a long time to get from 450 to 10 million but the other poster was correct that all you need to do is lower the GC score and it will automatically bump the lower high scores down when you beat it even though they are numerically higher.

I see, I thought you were the guy with the faulty buttons but that's TicTacSeth who has two pics to study now

Hmm, mine appears to be correct then ... ? Unless you see something I don’t??

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Also, saw these two connectors are not attached by the speaker, are they not used?

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I believe the small connector carries 9v and the larger one is for an unused ticket dispenser. I’ve seen that small connector loose before in our game.

Hmmm, that threw me as your switches are mounted the other way around to mine - Black knob closest to the door hinge. Anyways, your wiring does look different, the Black knob looks the same but the Green knob appears to be wired on the bottom 2 tabs - tbh I don't know the detail for how the tabs are wired internally so that may be fine and your wiring does appear 'crusty' and original.

The next thing I'd check is continuity to the CPU PCB CN14 per the schematic snippet I posted above.

Tictac, that switch panel looks really beat/rusted. You may want to redo that ground lug with a new lug/screw and clean some rust off.

TicTacSeth the white wire on the service switches goes via the door open button so check that too - your machine looks like it's seen some weather.

TicTacSeth 2: Is the plunger of the knocker just stuck or is the coil burned up?

The coil looks good, but it is disconnected from the previous owner. I should check that though.

Ah, I’ll check that!

The ground is super rusty, if not ground properly it won’t work? I’ll try that out too!

Chalkey and astyy

Further investigation reveals that at one point, my wires were attached the way yours are currently, which makes me wonder how that part works? Do you think I can jump them or would I have to detach and reattach? I still need to check continuity back to CN14, but need a longer wire to get me there.

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You can probably try jumping the wires to test and then get a new one ($12 at marcos). That is some really ugly corrosion you should try to clean as much as you can from the whole area.