(Topic ID: 299508)

Homepin, Williams CPU pcb replacement boards

By Mervyn

28 days ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by ignat
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 28 days ago

    just looking for feedback on these replacement PCBs. I have used two of them . One in a STTNG, all good for 6 mths, but have a new intermittent problem now. Power up and occasionally we get immediate, garbled dmd display and immediately some coils lock on , so the solenoid 7 amp fuse blows. Replace fuse and all good for weeks at a time. Has happened a few times. I would have thought the cpu would not allow anything to happen until boot and the bongs happen etc. voltage rails seem Ok. Original pcb was battery damaged of course.
    I would like to know if it’s a small error with the homepin pcb as I have not seen this type of problem on Williams before.
    any help appreciated.

    I Have been looking for a new DMD led replacement for a judge dread. Is there a supplier in OZ? Got one last year but can’t remember who supplied it. Parts are get scarce.lol."

    #2 28 days ago

    Email them directly … they’ll help you out.

    [email protected]

    rd

    #3 28 days ago

    I have no experience with their cpu boards, but we *had* one of the Homepin opto control boards in a Doctor Who which was causing one of the upkickers to fire continuously. We pulled that board out and replaced it with one of the "DumbAss" opto control boards and the problem was solved. Once I got the Homepin board over to the workbench, I started to inspect it. I was surprised to see rosin flux all over it like the board never got washed at the factory. I also found many bad solder joints at all of the connectors as well as at all of the high wattage resistors. This board had not been worked on before. So I scrubbed all of the old rosin flux off with 99% Isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush. That cleaned it up nicely. That is when I spotted all the bad solder joints once the rosin was cleaned off. I don't know how old this particular board is, but I don't like the poor quality control this board had.

    #4 28 days ago

    Good info, thanks. The cpu boards are very nice. Clean solder, looks very well made , I have sent email direct to home pin and waiting on reply from them. I also used a small opto board from Homepin on an Indiana Jones machine long time ago.Customer had fitted it and had a strange problem. I could not fix it so I found a problem on the original opto board and fixed it, perfect result. There was only a few components on the pcb but the new Homepin board would not work on the Indiana machine at least??

    #5 27 days ago

    what made you rule out the driver board and ribbon cables as the cause of this data quirk?

    #6 27 days ago
    Quoted from KenLayton:

    I don't like the poor quality control this board had.

    There was a bad batch of those affected boards about 4 years ago.. Its got nothing to do with the current cpu's

    #7 27 days ago

    I have swapped my 2 Homepin pcbs now from Bride of pinbot and STTNG. Also replaced ribbon to aux driver pcb and to dmd pcb. I had no info on the dip switch settings, is that important .? It’s different between pinbot and STTNG we will see if the fault changes. But it’s very intermittent.

    #8 27 days ago

    what made you rule out the driver board and ribbon cables as the cause of this data quirk? Wiredoug….

    Just the fact that I had to replace the cpu pcb because of battery damage about 6 mths ago.
    No response from Homepin sales yet.
    I had bad pins and connectors on the under play field opto control pcb,making strange faults intermittently. That was an easy diagnosis and fix with new molex plugs.

    #9 27 days ago

    dips are country settings like any other wpc mpu. they should be the same

    Quoted from Mervyn:

    No response from Homepin sales yet.

    as of lunchtime(ish) when i checked, your email had not come to homepin for response. forward it to me if you like ill make sure he gets it. (my username here)at legbolt.com (im the media mangler for the place you bought it and the place who made it so im in a good spot to help you make sure it will get seen.

    instinct and experience says its not the mpu but changing ribbons as well might make it go away now. lets see

    #10 26 days ago

    Hello wiredoug, here is a copy of the email sent to Homepin sales, they did not reply, perhaps you can send it through to them . My email here is [email protected]
    Also. I have ordered a few new replacement ribbon cables for these machines as well , just to eliminate them as a source of the problems. It’s so annoying that it’s so intermittent. I swapped the two boards now between pinbot and STTNG. Occasionally at switch on STTNG still shows a flicker of data on the DMD then it starts normally, it must be a perk of the new boards. I have a second STTNG here for repairs with original CPU pcb and it does not have this anomaly.Email to Homepin as follows. Thanks for you info so far.

    I have used two of your Homepin Williams wpc replacement pcbs. Below is my post on pin side asking for some help. Someone said to contact you directly, hoping you can help.
    The second board I used in a bride of Pinbot. I have both machines here on test before going back to the customers.. pinbot works well but interesting enough it blew a fuse yesterday on switch on which stopped the face from rotating. No shorts found and new fuse restored all functions, just like the STTNG??

    just looking for feedback on these replacement PCBs. I have used two of them . One in a STTNG, all good for 6 mths, but have a new intermittent problem now. Power up and occasionally we get immediate, garbled dmd display and immediately some coils lock on , so the solenoid 7 amp fuse blows. Replace fuse and all good for weeks at a time. Has happened a few times. I would have thought the cpu would not allow anything to happen until boot and the bongs happen etc. voltage rails seem Ok. Original pcb was battery damaged of course.
    I would like to know if it’s a small error with the homepin pcb as I have not seen this type of problem on Williams before.
    any help appreciated.
    Also are the setting of the switches on the pcb important? Left to right all down and last 2 on the right are up. That’s how they were when the boards were fitted.

    Hoping to hear from you soon ….Sent from my iPad

    #11 26 days ago

    sorry i cant unwrap that mess.

    your email wont be answered until you send it properly. its still not been recieved. try again as the last one never arrived.

    maybe you saved it as a draft instead or something?

    the mpu is basically the original wpc layout with an nvram .. i really doubt your problem is there. As i said earlier ribbons or an issue on the driver board most likely

    2 weeks later
    #12 12 days ago

    I also noticed some strange behavior with Doctor Who.

    I have 2 Doctor Who machines, one with original Williams MPU, one with Homepin

    During Video Mode when you collect the extra ball the Knocker will fire when you collect the extra ball on the homepin and not with the original board..

    Go figure.

    #13 12 days ago
    Quoted from ignat:

    I also noticed some strange behavior with Doctor Who.
    I have 2 Doctor Who machines, one with original Williams MPU, one with Homepin
    During Video Mode when you collect the extra ball the Knocker will fire when you collect the extra ball on the homepin and not with the original board..
    Go figure.

    Are both machines running the same rom version?

    Maybe swap the rom chips between machines, and see if one rom fires the coil and the other doesn’t …

    Be interesting to see!

    rd

    #14 12 days ago
    Quoted from rotordave:

    Are both machines running the same rom version?
    Maybe swap the rom chips between machines, and see if one rom fires the coil and the other doesn’t …
    Be interesting to see!
    rd

    Yeah same rom chips from what I can tell! I don't really want to swap them, I just had the Bally/Williams MPU out to repair a faulty diode!

    #15 12 days ago
    Quoted from ignat:

    Yeah same rom chips from what I can tell! I don't really want to swap them, I just had the Bally/Williams MPU out to repair a faulty diode!

    Fair enough too.

    The DMD should show the version number on the screen when you fire up the pin. Evidently two factory versions, L1 and L2. And maybe other versions floating around out there too.

    rd

    #16 12 days ago
    Quoted from rotordave:

    Fair enough too.
    The DMD should show the version number on the screen when you fire up the pin. Evidently two factory versions, L1 and L2. And maybe other versions floating around out there too.
    rd

    They both boot up with L2

    #17 12 days ago
    Quoted from ignat:

    They both boot up with L2

    Cool! Weird they are different.

    Enjoy your bonus knocker sound.

    rd

    #18 12 days ago
    Quoted from rotordave:

    Cool! Weird they are different.
    Enjoy your bonus knocker sound.
    rd

    Do you have a Doctor Who rotordave ? Does it have the knock during Video mode?

    It also does it during W-H-O Extra Ball

    Its actually quite distracting during Video mode so I doubt its normal

    #19 12 days ago
    Quoted from ignat:

    Do you have a Doctor Who rotordave ? Does it have the knock during Video mode?
    It also does it during W-H-O Extra Ball
    Its actually quite distracting during Video mode so I doubt its normal

    I have the extra balls turned off on all my pins, so unfortunately I couldn’t tell you …

    I’m sure someone can tell us …

    rd

    #20 12 days ago
    Quoted from ignat:

    Do you have a Doctor Who rotordave ? Does it have the knock during Video mode?
    It also does it during W-H-O Extra Ball
    Its actually quite distracting during Video mode so I doubt its normal

    Restore both to factory settings. It is more than likely a difference in the settings. You can turn features like this on and off.

    #21 12 days ago
    Quoted from nerdygrrl:

    Restore both to factory settings. It is more than likely a difference in the settings. You can turn features like this on and off.

    Its not a setting - they are both on factory

    #22 12 days ago

    Are the country code DIP switch settings identical? Some countries have the knocker disabled because electromechanical coin counter is connected instead of knocker. Set "coin meter units" in pricing adjustments to OFF.

    #23 12 days ago
    Quoted from Tuukka:

    Are the country code DIP switch settings identical? Some countries have the knocker disabled because electromechanical coin counter is connected instead of knocker. Set "coin meter units" in pricing adjustments to OFF.

    Nice tips!

    rd

    #24 12 days ago
    Quoted from Tuukka:

    Are the country code DIP switch settings identical? Some countries have the knocker disabled because electromechanical coin counter is connected instead of knocker. Set "coin meter units" in pricing adjustments to OFF.

    Turns out you are a Genius. I dont think its because it disables the knocker - there is a programmed in game feature to allow it only in video mode using some combination when all the DIP switches are set to OFF.

    My Original MPU (Hard Soldered DIPs) No Knock
    IMG_1126 (resized).jpg

    Homepin MPU Knocks
    IMG_1128 (resized).jpg

    Homepin MPU with the same DIPs set to ON No Knock!
    IMG_1127 (resized).jpg

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