I'm glad to see the pictures of all the playfield mechanisms. That's showing real progress!
Have you been able to get the plastic playfield inserts made yet? It seems that now you're almost ready to make playfields!
In the USA and on location, TWO coin slots are a requirement. Happ Controls makes a great two coin slot with bill validator cutout coin/bill door which Stern Pinball uses. The bill acceptor cutout comes with a cover plate installed which you remove if you install a bill aceptor.
There is a very good reason a bill acceptor is mounted on the coin door: you must be able to see the bottom/lower rear area of it in order to see the diagnostic LEDs mounted on it. Also when a bill jams, you need to easiest and quickest access to the bill aceptor to clear the jam (very important when on location).
Narrow coin doors are a real pain when you need to reach in to either adjust something (like tilt bob or volume control) or to grab the manual/schematics.
In the USA, a bill acceptor mounted into the wooden front gives the machine an appearance of a gambling device.
Quoted from desertT1:
What do these electronic mechs looks like?
Imonex v92 series with EM board and optical switch:
These units require +12 VDC to operate. Price per play, numbers of coins per credit, and length of pulse is set via dip switches under those black covers. However, the coins accepted are programmed into it at the factory. So if you want it to accept different coins, then you must ship the acceptor to the factory for re-programming.
Does the shooter housing use a metal pressed-in bushing? Or does it use a nylon sleeve like a Williams?
Quoted from rubberducks:
This bugs me so much in some machines where they've used switch actuators that are too heavy, and which stop slow balls on ramps or loops.
Getting round the side of the machine to tip it in the middle of a good ball isn't fun.
Why don't they go back to conventional leaf switches and Gottlieb rollover wireforms? With a leaf switch you can adjust the tension of the switch.
I can see from the pictures that some USA route operators are going to have carve up the front of the cabinet to install 2 chute bill acceptor coin doors. The single entry coin door will turn off some route operators from purchasing the machine.
Are those scratches in the paint on the coin door in your picture? What's those white scratches? Are the coin doors being powder coated?
Quoted from Jgaltr56:
Looks like there's a separate cutout in the cab for a bill acceptor?
Yes, but in some states the gambling commission by default considers a bill acceptor mounted in the wood a gambling machine. Whereas usually a bill acceptor mounted in the coin door is considered an amusement or vending device. Here in Washington state, our gambling commission plays hardball and virtually every amusement/gambling machine MUST be submitted to them for evaluation and approval/denial. This process can take around a year or more to happen for the machine to be either approved for sale & use in Washington state or flat out denied.
Also, when the bill acceptor is mounted on the coin door, it's easy to swing open the door and look at the bottom of the bill acceptor to see what error codes are flashing when a problem occurs. Also makes it easy to unbolt the bill acceptor should you need to replace it with another one. Easier access to the mounting bolts and you can see what you're doing.
That black plastic piece looks like a light chopper for some some of optical encoder. Maybe a steering control or shaft encoder?
Nitro pinball in Canada is an excellent distributor. They really go the extra mile to please their customers.
Will your machines come with a playfield prop rod? I feel these are absolutely essential when working on the playfield. Especially when working on the flippers, I don't want to have to lean the playfield against the backbox and stand on a step ladder to solder on wires on a flipper coil or EOS switch.
Some of the later Williams machines had vinyl sleeving on the end of the prop rod. A guy could use heat shrink tubing instead too.
Quoted from pinballkim:
Are plastic parts going to hold up to the cycles on a score real? Would they not wear and malfunction? I guess if parts are cheap they could always be rebuilt.
The parts look like exact copies of Williams 3 inch score reel parts. Williams made all their score reel parts of nylon plastic and they've held up quite well for being 45 years old.
I wish the back of the playfields were painted gray like they used to be. Looks better with gray paint in my opinion.
Change the mech holders to either one of these:
Then you can put in regular USA quarter mechs.
Quoted from Lysurgeon:
Ball keeps getting stuck on middle ramp, right above pop bumper. It doesnt matter what pitch we set it at. I tried to give this game a chance in a tourney last night. I should have known better. Never again, it had too many issues.
If I recall, Homepin has made newer, thicker plastic ramps. So if you got an early machine with a thin plastic ramp, they'll send you a replacement through your distributor. Also, on the metal habitrails, they discovered a problem with a ball getting stuck. Contact your distributor for a retrofit part that corrects that problem.
Thank you for posting those instruction sheets. I have used other Weiya/Huai products before on video arcade games especially their universal replacement monitor chassis, joysticks, and pushbuttons.
I think the important thing is that machines are being built *and* being shipped.
Quoted from Homepin:
The current small batch of machines is nearing completion. It takes a LOT longer to assemble a machine than we ever envisioned and we are looking at every possible way of getting them built in a 'more timely' fashion. We are just not able to make 50 machines a month at the moment but we are working on it.
'Todays problem' (TM) was discovered when we went to fit the coin doors to this current batch. The supplier has changed the coin slot spacing! It might have been handy if they told us about this as we have already made about 100 coin boxes and now the coin holes in them are in the wrong place.........this equals more delays and additional costs and expenses caused by delayed product. It also pushes out the time frame for starting the next batch.
Everyone wants their machine NOW but sadly we can only build and deliver them as fast as we can. I won't be drawn nor will I comment further on deliveries for individual machines. I have covered most delivery questions in my recent posts. I am going to devote my time 100% to running the factory and I will no longer involve myself in discussion of sales, gameplay or anything else as these areas are being handled by others and I am not going to be at cross purposes with anyone else.
As far as I am concerned, this thread will be for updating our progress and our builds and sharing some problems that we strike along the way. That is what I will be sticking to from now on. If someone has a question on building machines, mechanisms, PCBs or anything else factory related I will do my best to answer it.
Please refer purchase, delivery and service enquiries to our dealer in your area for the fastest most efficient response.
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Something I just noticed on the new coin door: the double "D" hole for the lock has the flat sides vertical. That's not the way it is in the USA. We normally have the flat sides of the double D hole horizontal for the lock.
Spooky uses mostly "off-the-shelf" assemblies for their machines. No need to spend "years" re-inventing the wheel like Homepin did.
Quoted from MarkInc:
I saw from a facebook post that there's a parts/material supply problem since Chinese New Year.
- Just got 50 sheets of plywood in - after some begging.
It's China. Things like that happen all the time. That's why I would never have set up operations there in my opinion.
Quoted from PopBumperPete:
Because HomePin still owes many preorder people, machines, which they paid for 5+ years ago
all they have is lies and deception
And wasn't it back in November 2018 promises were made that all the remaining pre-orders would be shipping in January 2019? Well that month has come and gone.
There is an update kit for the flipper bushing now. It consists of a stainless steel sleeve which goes inside the flipper bushing. I wonder if there was too much slop in the nylon bushings they made?
Quoted from oldskool1969:
Why not just send a newer, better bushed and put that in?
The flipper is already mostly taken apart looking at the instructions given.
Or you could replace the Homepin bushing with the superior Williams flipper bushing # 03-7568 and not have to worry.
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