Are you going to stain and varnish it to try to match the wood on the rest of the game?

Looks nice

You should round off the front of the lockbar for a better feel. It looks to squared off at the front. Stain and clearcoat would help to match colors too.

Looking good! When I first read the title, I was thinking...oh, this is going to look like crap, but for a pitch and bat....perfect! Nicely done!

Nice work!!

Looks real nice! I wish I was that creative with woodworking.

Careful, you may just get requests to make more

nice one ted.

Did you make this out of one piece of wood?
Nice work. Possibly some one could scan the top of another front moulding and you could make a decal then clearcoat. It would be as good a the original then.

Love this level of restore work.

Ted... the rounded corners are already matched to the template you have right?

Now theres a few options for refinishing.

1. Actually all of the lockdown bars i have seen have that more blonde look anyways with the laminate... even that 47 keeney has that blond look. like i said rather than a full decal , just one for the writing missing and then clear coat straight up. theres enough grain in that oak it appears. a test of such on the back will see if it brings that grain look emulated on an original.

2. doing a full decal overlay with simulated grain to match prexisting lockdown... the thing is it wont be a true laminate and wont hold up well.

3. stain with a matching color to side rails. ive used a Saman "sesame " stain to match aged oil varnishings before. use decals and top with multiple coats of latex varathane. this way color will always be steadfast and UV resistant. however again.. i think you might want the more blonde look of the natural oak.

4 decals and using an oil varnish. it has that amber glow to it and it will after a short period of time darken to the side rails.( 6 months)

i have more than a few dozen containers of stain ...ill see if i can get a scrap piece of oak that i can play with to color match maybe that hue.. it wont need much..

When i did this fix I used a piece of laminate and bonded to the wood then added the full decal to it and cleared. The laminate is a hard surface that receives the decal well and is quite original in appearance. I used 2 part auto clear and it is very hard now. I originally used part decals for the writing and they looked a little sad after a 6 months as dirt works its way under the edges, best to to cover it all.

The upside is a scratch can be polished out of the clear.
Another upside you can relay a decal and clear again in minutes if some calamity happens in the future.
The downside may be the clear to shiny decal adhesion is not so great in years to come.

So far of the three I fixed this way they have held up well and you cannot tell that it is a decal even up close. The laminate I assure you is not as tough as you would think looking at the damage and scratches I have seen.
Decalled_Moulding_(resized).JPG

Final observation perhaps on matching the side rails. Sand and re lacquer them all and they will be a close finish.