(Topic ID: 222727)

Homebrew Webbing - step by step

By SilverWings

5 years ago


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  • 64 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by PhilGreg
  • Topic is favorited by 63 Pinsiders

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    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gdonovan.
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    #13 4 years ago

    Just wanted to thank SilverWings for this posting! I have two projects that need webbing and finally had some time to mix up the various chemicals and give it a shot. Dusted off an antique Sharpe gun that had been kicking around my toolbox for damn near 30 years.

    Since I was missing that correct mixing device I improvised! It lacquer thinner is 10% of the mix I made that my base with it being a 1/2 once, glue being an 1.5 ounce and paint being roughly 3.5 ounces. Got a big piece of cardboard out and started fiddling with the dials!

    With a little practice it was fairly easy to get the density of webbing I wanted after tweaking the dials and speed of sweep.

    Thank you! I have two cabinets to do and feel better about being able to do them proper.

    Gary

    P.S. The webbing shown below is just a practice piece that I had gone over a few times to get the hang of it and not representative of what the final will look like.

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    #14 4 years ago

    Webbing done, very pleased with the results.

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    #16 4 years ago
    Quoted from Xenon75:

    This is awesome!
    I would need a whole setup, could someone please tell me what time of air compressor, gun, etc. I would need? Also how do you clean the gun when finished?

    You don't need a lot of air compressor to do the job, cabinet took me less than 5 minutes at 40 psi, so not a lot of volume used. I spent more time looking, shoot, look, shoot, etc. I bet I could do the next one under a minute.

    sweep, sweep, sweep, sweep, done.

    Gun is listed- Any old school siphon gun will do I think, mine is over 30 years old. I bet you can still find them cheap.

    I just cleaned up with acetone, cleans up fast.

    #19 4 years ago
    Quoted from dudah:

    I used a vertical feed HVLP with great results.
    Agreed, once you have it dialed in, only takes a minute to lay it down.

    I have two HVLP vertical guns, I'll have to give it a shot and report results.

    2 weeks later
    #22 4 years ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    Too heavy. They never had webbing like that from the factory.

    I have seen a wide variation of webbing from almost none to fairly heavy. My Domino is fairly light, the inside cabinet of Hearts and Spades was fairly dense. All going to depend on who was manning the paint gun that day and how diligent they were.

    #25 4 years ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    Someone fell asleep at the gun. That's atrocious.

    Wide variations are the norm. Seen the same thing when restoring cars.

    One has neat undercoating and the next looks like the new guy in training was given the gun after a six pack lunch. The discussions over what is correct gets rather heated at times.

    If they were all uniform considering how many were made and how webbing is applied it would be a miracle.

    #26 4 years ago
    Quoted from SilverWings:

    gdonovan - Fantastic results. Nice work there!
    Did you use the Beacon glue, or another brand/type? I suspect that almost any clear acrylic glue would work.
    Bill.

    Be honest, most of the glue seemed to clump up in the bottom of the gun. The next cab I do I'm going to leave the glue out and see what it looks like on a test piece.

    #33 4 years ago
    Quoted from rlbohon3:

    Ok, another silly question... are you guys using black paint for webbing or something more dark gray? It seems like the webbing I’ve seen on most games looks a little more dark gray than plain old black. Maybe it’s once mixed with glue or when it’s “slung” out to make a web pattern that it just looks lighter.

    Just black paint

    #36 4 years ago
    Quoted from rlbohon3:

    The Pinballpimp stencils I just received mention twice not to use lacquer as it messes with the stencils. Earlier in this thread was mentioned that black enamel didn’t work well with webbing. So... what to do? I was going to experiment again with black enamel to see if I have any luck getting a webbing effect on some scrap poster boards. Not trying to over think this, but I’d hate to use that black lacquer for the webbing then have issues with $150 stencils.

    I'd touch base with them and ask for a clarification.

    Not to use lacquer webbing or lacquer for your primary colors. The webbing is so fine and generally sparse I doubt it would be an issue with stencils but it doesn't hurt to ask.

    1 month later
    #49 4 years ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Be honest, most of the glue seemed to clump up in the bottom of the gun. The next cab I do I'm going to leave the glue out and see what it looks like on a test piece.

    This turned into a dead end- No matter the ratio of paint to thinner or gun settings produced any webbing. Gave a healthy blob of glue into the gun paint cup, mixed and webbing arrived. Lesson learned!

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    #51 4 years ago
    Quoted from SilverWings:

    I conducted a series of tests: various glues and paints to see where the paint + glue would be compatible.
    The only combination I found was lacquer paint + acrylic glue. Everything else turned into globs of snot, unshootable goop, or a kind of tar like residue that was just nasty. Initially, I wanted to use oil based enamel as my paint base, but never found a glue that would work with it.
    So, from my limited knowledge of this: the paint + glue used must be compatible. They must mix - not like thinner would, but at least they must not generate goopy junk that in and of itself remains basically separate from the rest of the mixture. Then, when its shot, it dries and strings up SO FAST that in mid-air, it generates the webbing.
    Apart from taking 1000 frames per second video of this stuff emitting from the paint gun -- that's my *theory* on how webbing works as its applied from a sprayed source. The lacquer/glue mixture I used sprayed easily and produced webbing that had fantastic adhesion and very very low build height on the surface. Absolutely no need to sand or scrape off high spots with this it just lays down perfectly.

    Your tests in the first post are very much appreciated, I just like tinkering. The glue dissolved much better this time, I think because I had a larger amount of thinner in this mixture.

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