(Topic ID: 222727)

Homebrew Webbing - step by step

By SilverWings

5 years ago


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  • 64 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by PhilGreg
  • Topic is favorited by 63 Pinsiders

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    There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 4 years ago
    Quoted from SilverWings:

    I conducted a series of tests: various glues and paints to see where the paint + glue would be compatible.
    The only combination I found was lacquer paint + acrylic glue. Everything else turned into globs of snot, unshootable goop, or a kind of tar like residue that was just nasty. Initially, I wanted to use oil based enamel as my paint base, but never found a glue that would work with it.
    So, from my limited knowledge of this: the paint + glue used must be compatible. They must mix - not like thinner would, but at least they must not generate goopy junk that in and of itself remains basically separate from the rest of the mixture. Then, when its shot, it dries and strings up SO FAST that in mid-air, it generates the webbing.
    Apart from taking 1000 frames per second video of this stuff emitting from the paint gun -- that's my *theory* on how webbing works as its applied from a sprayed source. The lacquer/glue mixture I used sprayed easily and produced webbing that had fantastic adhesion and very very low build height on the surface. Absolutely no need to sand or scrape off high spots with this it just lays down perfectly.

    Your tests in the first post are very much appreciated, I just like tinkering. The glue dissolved much better this time, I think because I had a larger amount of thinner in this mixture.

    11 months later
    #52 3 years ago

    I tried the spray can webbing but, as noted, the webbing came out too thick. The Homebrew method worked great. I had buy a gun (NOS from Harbor Freight on eBay), a compressor (something I always wanted), and all the components exactly as described.

    I used a measuring cylinder for the components and the black painted suggested. Clean up was messy because of the lacquer paint but in the end it was worth it. Thanks SilverWings.

    9 months later
    #53 2 years ago

    Just webbed a Majorettes using this recipe, used black and silver enamel paint to moderate the black. thanks SilverWings

    #54 2 years ago

    I've had great results with a lacquer paint offered by Bohning, used to coat arrow crests... it's some bad-ass stuff that really sticks to cabinets, and dries close to the bone so it's not all bumpy like other types of non-lacquer paints.

    https://shop.bohning.com/fletch-lac-paint/

    I bought a pint of black and white, and a pint of their thinner (one drawback - you have to use their proprietary thinner with their paints, others don't work - believe me I've tried)... anyway I've done 3 or 4 cabs and have a ton left. They also offer silver, but I haven't tried that as of today.

    I've found that with the paint as is, you can just load it in the gun, no glue required.

    #55 2 years ago

    Here's my latest try... not too shabby

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    #56 2 years ago

    This was done with krylon out of the can webbing.

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    #57 2 years ago

    I have used this once before as wel with great results!

    Quoted from northstar-:

    This was done with krylon out of the can webbing.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    1 year later
    #58 1 year ago
    Quoted from EMsInKC:

    I don't think this is true for all lacquers. Jeff might have had that happen at some point but it doesn't mean you can never use lacquers.
    I'm restoring a Big Indian. Next up in line is Atlantis. The paint for the brown part of Atlantis is Montana White Kidney Beans, which is a glossy synthetic lacquer of some kind. I took the used stencil from Big Indian and sprayed that Kidney Beans lacquer on the stencil. Didn't do a thing to the stencil.
    You can always cut off a small piece of the stencil material and spray it and find out of you get any reaction. Then just tape over that part when you actually lay the stencil out.
    pinhead52 reported the same experience as I had shooting lacquer onto the stencil material. No different reaction than enamels.

    Correct; synthetic lacquers like Montana and Molotow are fantastic paints and work perfectly with pimp stencils... great coverage, fast apply, and much better than most of the usual suspects (Krylon, Rustoleum).

    #59 1 year ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Correct; synthetic lacquers like Montana and Molotow are fantastic paints and work perfectly with pimp stencils... great coverage, fast apply, no melted stencils and much better than most of the usual suspects (Krylon, Rustoleum).

    #60 1 year ago
    Quoted from Dono:

    Correct; synthetic lacquers like Montana and Molotow are fantastic paints and work perfectly with pimp stencils... great coverage, fast apply, and much better than most of the usual suspects (Krylon, Rustoleum).

    I'll second that, I have been using Montana White series and Molotow and they provide a great finish and dry quick. Rustoleum is much more of a pain to work with but easier to find.

    1 year later
    #61 3 months ago

    Thanks to this thread for inspiring me to put some webbing on this re-painted bottom for a WMS Palooka. Some of the same ingredients were used, but I deviated/improvised here and there. The black acrylic lacquer from Dupli-Color was the same. The gun was gravity fed instead of siphon. A viscous brush-on acrylic lacquer substituted for the glue. No lacquer thinner. Once the gun was set to 40 PSI, the only variable was the needle. Like SilverWings said, it doesn’t take much needle adjustment to change the webbing’s density.

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    #62 3 months ago
    Quoted from leckmeck:

    The black acrylic lacquer from Dupli-Color was the same.

    I have a “NIB” can of it if you run out. It’s yours.

    #63 3 months ago
    Quoted from EJS:

    I have a “NIB” can of it if you run out. It’s yours.

    Thanks, but I already have enough to web an entire 700-unit production run of Palookas! I’ll never use up this can.

    #64 3 months ago

    Great results!
    Here's one with the wire brush + a thick acrylic tube paint. This is just the small cabinets of my score reel clocks.

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    There are 64 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.

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