Nice work that is one great looking 6M$M.
I really honestly liked the brown and blue cabinet before changing back to RWB.
I know it would not match PF or anything else just looked nice.
Very nice work.
Nice work that is one great looking 6M$M.
I really honestly liked the brown and blue cabinet before changing back to RWB.
I know it would not match PF or anything else just looked nice.
Very nice work.
That looks great!
A fantastic paint job!!!
How much was your cost vs the pre-made stencils?
What kind of primer and paint did you use?
Inquiring minds want to know!
You should make custom stencils!
Basically, $30 for materials to make the stencils plus countless hours to clean up the originals. This has been a huge learning process I am far from mastering. (If you examine the corners I still didn't get the alignment correct.) The paint I used was standard household latex in satin finish. 1 qt each. Plus 2 spray cans of clearcoat. Not pleased with how the clearcoat did. Next time I'll put it on with the gun. Overall, I am happy with it and would surely do it again. Most machines don't have stencils available and the best C/L bargain machines come with that sanded, natural finish. I prefer my machines to look original. Well, time to get my Black Pyramid shopped for TPF then I am delving into making a clear machine from the remains of a Sonic - Super Straight.
Looks great! I'm going to try my hand at a complete repaint when the weather warms up enough to paint. I hope mine comes out as nice as your 6M$M.
Just curious - did you use transfer tape to apply the stencils, or did you place them manually? Is the stencil material stiff enough to avoid having to use transfer tape?
Charlie
Awesome job!!!! Getting ready to tackle a Flash Gordon.
Can you say how you removed the siderails? Were you successful in removing them without damage?
Thanks,
Carey
Quoted from essmeier:Just curious - did you use transfer tape to apply the stencils, or did you place them manually? Is the stencil material stiff enough to avoid having to use transfer tape?
Charlie
Had to use transfer tape. (AT-60 from signwarehouse.com) No way it would work otherwise. My biggest problem through this whole thing was the alignment process. It deserved way more attention than I gave it.
Quoted from 85Txaggie:Awesome job!!!! Getting ready to tackle a Flash Gordon.
Can you say how you removed the siderails? Were you successful in removing them without damage?
Thanks,
Carey
Well... after doing exhaustive research here, I ended up taking some of my old flathead screwdrivers to task on a grinding wheel and making a mini-prybar of sorts. (To go between the rail and the nail head.) The problem there is that it WILL scratch your siderail which can then be buffed out but that's just making more work. For the second side and any future endeavors, I pried under the rail at the nail head together to get it started. Then I popped the rail back down to where I could get my home made mini-pry under the nail head with protective material between it and the rail. This made for some minor indents in the wood which was being sanded, filled and repaired anyways. The first one was tough, after that it gets easier as you go along. Watch out for a bolt near the flipper button and a vertical nail at the other end. Remember, the nails are spiraled. Once you get it pried up a little, grab it with vise grips and twist it out. Good luck!
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:Had to use transfer tape. (AT-60 from signwarehouse.com) No way it would work otherwise.
Thanks!
Charlie
Inkscape will save in over a dozen different formats. I used .png because that is what my vinyl cutter program read best.
We also sell the Haunted House stencil.
http://www.twistedpins.com/products/stencil_kits/?PageIndex=2&ProductID=48
Quoted from TwistedPins:We also sell the Haunted House stencil.
http://www.twistedpins.com/products/stencil_kits/?PageIndex=2&ProductID=48
Takes quite a bit of nerve to post a link to your stencils directly after mine.If you havent already done so, then i suggest you go to our home page
You will see on there that we have LICENCE to produce GOTTLIEB cabinet stencils, we are sole provider of these WORLDWIDE. This in effect means that you are in breach of said licencing rights and are therefore impacting sales to which we may have course to claim compensation.
I hereby request that you remove ALL GOTTLIEB stencils from your listing and cease sales immediately. Your product listing has been sent to rights holders GOTTLIEB DEVELOPMENT LLC.
I trust i can rely on your cooperation in this matter..
Gavin Tiernan - Flipperescue
Quoted from Retropin:Takes quite a bit of nerve to post a link to your stencils directly after mine.
Yes, but they offer making what I need. I didn't see that on your site?
Glad to find both companies.
Alignment can be assisted by rulers in the original photo. Then photoshop or illustrator using measure tools to stretch and line things back up.
Great work by the way! I will be using a similar process to do my firepower this summer. I am going to look into the paintmask material you used.
What I didn't think through was that the blue intersects at the front corners. The paint order was most logically a white base coat followed by the red, then the blue. The red stencils could be closely aligned, but they don't actually meet. I figured I could adjust the blue as needed but then an 1/8" difference at the front translates to an inch off at the back of the cabinet. Had to align the blue stencil with what was already red. Thus the sides and front look great until you see them together. Since then I pay more attention to how machine paint jobs are aligned at the corners. Not many line up like the 6M$M, but some do. Lesson learned.
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