Alien Star
Gottlieb, 1984
Arena
Gottlieb, 1987
Asteroid Annie and the Aliens
Gottlieb, 1980
Bad Girls
Gottlieb, 1988
Big House
Gottlieb, 1989
Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981
Bone Busters Inc.
Gottlieb, 1989
Bounty Hunter
Gottlieb, 1985You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider zigzagzag.
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Quoted from jjoravec:Does anyone know where I can get the ramp decal for Diamond Lady? Marco only sells it in a set and I don't need to spend $40 on a decal set when I only need the ramp decal.[quoted image]
PBResource has them : http://www.pbresource.com/pfplayfSS.htm
Quoted from Jigz:Can anyone speak to the Mirco replacement playfield? My upper playfield has almost a powder type deal going on in a lot of places (especially the pop bumper area) and I just have been on the fence about whether or not it is worth the effort trying to deal with it for a very long time at this point.
Thanks!
If you're thinking about Black hole I have installed Mirco's playfield replacement and am happy with it.
Quoted from Dwboca:First post for help....
I bought a Panthera a month or so ago. My first Gottlieb sys 80. Originally played with a few issues. Some lights were on all the time, some not on. 2 of 3 white drop targets would immediately drop. It was recommended that I repin all connectors, I replaced all except double sided. Now lights up and makes sound, but not the initial sound. Wont start
The first thing to do on any Gottlieb is to do the ground mods - the ones on the transformer and the ones on the circuit boards.
If they have not been done, check here : https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Ground_updates
Quoted from FlipperFanatic:Alright fellows...put your thinking caps on...
I have a Touchdown that turns on but only slightly.
Backbox lights and only 1 light in each of the playfield groupings (pass, yard marker, shoot again, the O and the B in FootBall) lights.
The sound goes through the different sounds but the game never really starts.
I checked all the contacts and reseated all the connections.
Here is were I scratched my head.
I checked all the TP on the power supply board...they were all DOUBLE what they should have been!!
The 60v test point was putting out 125v...what..and yes I read the meter correctly.
I even checked the outlet..it was only 121.
Any thoughts or previous experience?
Have you done the ground mods ? Always start with the ground mods.
Quoted from Cheddar:He is concerned that 80B boards are getting hard to find.
I recommend this : https://lisy.dev/gottfa80.html
Have used it in Genesis, Black hole, TX Sector.
I also use this sound card in my (export) Black hole to get US sounds and speech : https://lisy.dev/gosof-dip.html
Quoted from RobDutch:I can't seem to find the parts I need for the 'repinning' of a system 80B edge connector.
Could anyone guide me in the right direction?
Photo is a molex 0.156, I need something like this but for a gottlieb edge connector..
Thanks!
[quoted image]
The part you show is trifurcon and can not be used for edge connectors, only pinned connectors.
You need a bifurcated one like Molex 08-03-0304
Quoted from chuckwurt:I need help completely turning off the attract sounds of Big House. 80b. The setting is off, but they still say stuff during attract mode every 5 mins or so.
Diamond Lady did the same thing, and I was able to turn it completely off, and I can’t remember what I did. Haha
On Black hole that is a setting on the sound card itself, I believe ?
Maybe there are some dip switches there ?
Quoted from chuckwurt:Okay. Not sure where to go from here either.
You need to put in a battery to keep the high scores since (as slochar said) you have regular RAM and not NVRAM on your board.
There might be nothing wrong besides that.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Which is the 5101? I only see socketed chips on this board.
It's the one with the red circle around it here.
I'm not familiar with the Schwemmer boards, so I do not not which NVRAM to use here.
The larger socket around the smaller one seems to indicate you can use something like a FM1608, but check the manual.
eab0754da023597d293023aed185519195dc35b9 (resized).jpgQuoted from La4s:I would be interested in multiple sets for system 80/80B connectors depending on the price per connector.
The text on the connectors is a nice touch, but not necessary if it substantially increases the price.
If there is anything that can be done to adjust the mpu/driverboard connectors so they don't require the bifurcated pins would be great.
Use a Jamma connector like these : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002516823200.htm
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:Hey guys
I’m in the middle of a Countdown restore. Read reading in various places about the “must-perform System 1 ground mod”, but I’m coming up empty finding a thread on the subject. I just want to shore it up to prevent any issues in the future & read up any suggested changes.
My game has the pascal all-in-one board it btw.
Here is the information you need : https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_1#Ground_Updates
Quoted from hisokajp:is there a way to get kick target plastic cover repro (b20210)? the ones on my Genesis aren't very fresh...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20210P ?
Probably Pinball resource has them too.
Quoted from frenchmarky:Why do System 80s have the label at the power switch reading "Warning - before making any adjustments, repairs or board replacements, turn on/off switch to off, leave power cord plugged in"?
Because making repairs with power on will likely destroy the game.
Also, leaving the power cord connected will keep the game grounded so you avoid nasty electrical shocks.
Quoted from frenchmarky:Yeah I didn't get the part about leaving it plugged in. Then was thinking maybe it could help keep you from zapping chips with static electricity because you'll likely ground out the static just opening the game up?
Any charge that you accumulate in your body will discharge to ground - if you touch a grounded part first.
You will get a (in most cases) mild shock.
But - if you touch anything not grounded, the charge will pass through that component on it's way to ground.
So if you touch any boards before touching ground you may damage ICs and such.
I have to replace one 1-5/8" oval green insert on my Hollywood heat playfield.
PBresource are out of stock, Pinball life wants $43 to ship to Norway ... does anyone have one spare they would be willing to put in an envelope and send to me ?
Quoted from radial_head:Sys80 Sound/Speech board questions. I've been having some trouble with my Haunted House's sound board. Initially, when I set it back up after being in storage, the sound was extremely distorted.
It then ceased to produce sound all together.
I noticed that some of the supply voltages were off, so I swapped my SS PSU which got the voltages back on track.
Still nothing.
I put in my S/S board from my Black Hole which is a new Swemmer board. Swapped the roms to the HH roms, and voila, it works.
I figured I'd try swapping the 6532 RIOT chip on my HH S/S board and try it again, no dice.
Now when I plug my Swemmer board back in, I get nothing too.
A few other clues:
Attract sounds on Haunted House works perfectly. The game is running a Swemmer MPU, a Ni-Wumpf driver, and a Gulf PSU.
I will admit that I've never understood the S/S board test procedures.
What am I missing here?
Have you done the ground mods ?
Quoted from radial_head:Yes, but yes if that means, tying all of the main board grounds together, adding the additional connectors on the interconnect. I have yet to do the "chop all of the ground wires make them into one big massive connected ball of solder" one that Clay recommends.
I feel like people treat these "ground mods" as a catch all of "it'll work after you do this" but I contest that these games issues are way more complicated than that.
It has solved (amongst other) sound issues on my Genesis and Black hole and is recommended practice - not only to solve problems but to avoid future problems.
So I do it now by default on all Gottliebs that pass through here before I even switch them on.
There is a reason Pinwiki and most other repair sites recommend doing them 
Quoted from sparky672:Yes, but Pinwiki does not include the "ball of solder" ground mod that is part of Clay's guide. And not every pinball expert agrees with how grounds should be fixed. I've cued up this video to a 30-second segment...
What I have noticed is that all Gottliebs I have done the transformer ground mod on (not the solder blob one obviously) have been stable and reliable since.
I also choose to add ground wires directly to the MPU.
This is instead of grounding it through a flimsy connector to the driver board - where the ground goes through yet another connector down to the transformer and through a third connector before it hits proper ground.
Three connectors to ground gives three points of failure and higher resistance to ground (since Gottlieb unlike other pinball manufacturers chose to use plastic spacers and not ground the boards directly to a metal backplate instead).
All sound issues (and lamp issues and coil issues) have disappeared and I can enjoy playing my games.
But hey, it's your game, feel free to do whatever you want
Quoted from radial_head:I agree with this. Since this one has almost all after market boards, coupling individual boards outside of connectors is really easy, and was done. The solder blob is the only thing I haven't done on this one. I've even gone through and added all the additional fuses for the kicking targets (but have yet to do the vuk mod.... mine works perfectly with power every time).
I'll repin those edge connectors and get back to you. I hope it's that.So you're telling me you're running a direct ground wire to the sound board and that solved your sound problems? I'm honestly surprised.
Mmm no. I am telling you I did the transformer ground mod and MPU ground mod.
Quoted from radial_head:There are no transformer ground mods to be done on any System 80 before Sys80A with the exception of the "solder blob".
Let's just all accept that if you see me posting about a Gottlieb game, I promise you I have done the necessary ground work.
Ah ! I see what you mean, I assumed Haunted house was the same as Black hole etc. which it is not - it's sys80 and not 80a/b etc.
My bad, sorry
Quoted from sethbenjamin:Damn. Somehow missed the point entirely, lol. Guess I was trying to hear what I wanted to hear…
How weird that they used such a different configuration for basically the same end. Gottlieb were a wacky bunch.
The ServoCity site seems only to have DC motors. I’d welcome pointers if anybody has ideas. So far my Google searches come up empty.
Maybe you can find something useful here : https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-28vac-rpm.html
Quoted from chuckwurt:Having issues with all 4 pop bumpers on Gold Wings.
They all have their own fuses. 12-15 on the fuse clip block on the underside of the playfield.
They are daisy changed. If one blows, or the fuse clips are flakey, then they all don’t work.
Anyone seen this before? Tried many new good fuses and tried to give the clips a squeeze to help it, and at best, it will get them to work for a game or two, then out again.
Any ideas to improve connection without putting new clips in? (I don’t have them handy)
It seems strange that all pop bumpers stop working when one fuse blows. According to the schematics this should not happen.
Perhaps it is a ground problem ?
Untitled (resized).pngQuoted from chuckwurt:Okay thanks for the help. So a ground issue maybe further upstream in the driver board? These are the only coils that don’t work.
But it’s seriously all or not thing here. If one doesn’t work, they all don’t.
It could be the 5V or ground going to the pop bumper boards.
That again could be bad/corroded connectors, dry solder, broken wire ... hard to say, I would measure voltages at the pop bumper boards when they stop working.
Also the switches have common ground I see.
I usually do the ground mods as described on Pinwiki as it has solved a lot of intermittent issues on the sys80* games I have, but others here have had strong opinions against it.
I think however we all agree that connectors are prone to corrosion and breakage.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Good evening pinheads. I just got my Sinbad all done and everything is good to go, with the exception of extra balls.
I want to disable extra balls and from pinrepair, the dip switch settings show that dip 11 set to ON should make the extra ball give you a replay instead of an extra ball. The extra ball rollover awards an extra ball in either ON or OFF position. All of the other switches in that same dip bank seem to be working fine. All of the desired settings are working, that is, save for the EBs.
If this is not the correct way to achieve no extra balls, would anyone be able to advise how, please?
If there is a single rollover switch awarding extra balls you could just cut one of the wires to that switch?
I'm trying to put together a Caveman from scratch as they never appear for sale here in Norway.
So far I have most of it covered, but I am missing the MA253 I/O RAM board - so if someone has one lying around (working or non-working) that they would sell, please send me a PM.
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Appreciate the tip, have made contact, fingers crossed they're happy send to Oz
You can 3D print the plastic housings if needed : https://lisy.dev/gtb-edge-connectors.html
There you can also find links to buying the crimp contacts needed.
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Stavanger
Reno, NV