Hey guys got a question on a 80B Robowar. Been working on a robowar and making progress, going in diagnostics switch test i had everythng working. I started a game to check all was good and then it went into tilt switch closed. did some research and found that it was likely Z14. Replaced Z14 tonight, put the board back in, fired it up and all was well again.
Attract mode and sound was all good, lamp test was good, solenoids and flashers were good, went to switch test and not all good. It was showing that the (1) and (3 ) switches were closed, so 1, 3, 11, 13, 21, 23, 31, 33, ect.

What would cause this ? And do I need to replace Z13 as well? Thanks for the help.

Wow. Thanks for that explanation. I did notice also that the left selection button does not work now. I tried using the button when i was doin the solenoid test and it was not working.
I have some 7404s so I may swap those out.
I could send ya a link to the robowar schematic if that would better help.

Heres the pdf file to robo war

http://nstyle.free.fr/doc/robo-war%20reduit.pdf

Im working on replacing Z13 Z11 and Z12. Thanks for the info. I did check the diode board and it looks good. Ill report back once the chips are in.

REGNE

All the chips have been replaced. Just a question where do pins in red go back to? I messed the pad up on pin 4 and cant test continuity. If i need a jumper where does it land?
And what does the MR stand for?

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REGNE
Ok. Left advance button works. I made my jumper repair for pin 4. Went back through z11-z14 and verified each pin had continuity to its proper destination. I made sure that each pin on the chip wasnt accidentally bridged to another pin or trace. Still getting returns closed for row 1 and 3.

U4 bad?

I have verified the resistor and the cap for both rows. All is good.

I have a probe but not sure what im looking for. I giess I would be checking pin 11 for row 3 and 9 for row 1. While the game is running should they be high low or pulsing?

Im in the same boat right now. applejuice from Mypinballs makes an 80B mpu, i got in contact with them 2 wks ago and he said they will be putting together an order very soon to keep checking the website.

Agent_Hero I also looked into doing a run of LISY80 boards yesterday. Like everything else it looks like the prices have gone up to have those done. Its still way cheaper but would need to have a few other people wanting a board. If there is some interest Id be willing to do the order.

Hey guys looking for some help on my Robo-War . Solenoid #3 is not working. This is used when a ball locks and then you can start multiball after hitting a stand up under the ramp.

Grounding the coil fires it.

F13 fuse is good.

Switch 76 is good.

In test mode, probing Z29 pin 10 pulses low and Pin 11 pulses high. Pretty sure thats correct.

Next down the list is the driver board, I made sure there is continuity between MPU and driver boards. Q54 tested good but i changed it anyway.

Here is where it gets alittle fuzzy for me. I checked Q3 driver on the 1A16 driver board and it checks out along with Q4 and Q7. Continuity from up stream is all good.

During game play when a ball is locked, the stargate lights and sound operate as its waiting for the standup target to be hit, once its hit it starts as if multiball is happening but it never kicks out.

Anyone have any ideas or should I just try and replace the Q3 transistor on the 1A16 board? What actually activates the hole kicker, is it the "S" coil?

Thanks for the help

Well i just found and changed out the Q3 transistor and thats a no go. Still nothing.

I bought a set from PBResource a month or so ago. The web site says out of stock but he has some stored back.

PBResource. Just ordered some 2 wks ago for my robowar. They look good but what a pain in the a$$. They are hard to get on and even harder to get off.

I ordered that tool from PBResource when I ordered the nuts.

I dig it.

Hey guys, I got a weird thing happening in my Robo-War . I am getting the Flight again extra ball after I start the game on ball 1 or 2. I have looked in the dip settings but do not see anything that would cause this. Anyone had this happen?

I actually get an extra ball

It varies when it comes on also. It may come on right as ball one starts or later during the ball. And even waits till ball 2.

Love Silver slugger, that would be very cool if someone was out there doing new code for these games.

Hey Chuck chuckwurt are you going to jump on that Alien Star up for sale in your neck of the woods?

I bought the pin tool that slides in to press the tab down but i didnt think it worked to well. I ended up drilling a small hole in the connector where the tab is, then used a pick to push the tab down and slide the metal connector out.

Thats the pick set right there. Good ol Harbor Freight.

It may be like RoboWar, The attract mode in the manual says dip #7 but it is actually Dip#8.

You can also add a jumper to the diode board. This essential ties the right advance button to the coin drop. There is a write up in the 80 b section of the pinwiki.

Well maybe scrap that, i just re read that and it is not confirmed with Big House. But hey maybe check that out to see if it will work so the pinwiki can be updated.

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chuckwurt

Did you try the jumper yet for the free play?

Adding the diode is what I said above but as the pinwiki says its not confirmed to work with Bighouse, and Chuck confirmed his Bighouse does not have a diode board.

Hey guys, I have a Chicago cubs triple play in good working order. I noticed that the back ground sound is no longer there. All other sounds from playfield switches work as they should but the constant background music is not. The sound board is a MA-490 and has the daughter board attached to it. It also has 2 dips switches at the top but not sure what they do. When I try different configurations of the dips I can get some sounds but they are distorted. Any help is appreciated.

Good morning, Im looking for a 19 pin Single sided edge connector with Rib between pins 4 and 5, pins 7 and 8, pins 11 and 12 & pins 15 and 16. This connector goes to the display for the 80B games. Im needing it for my TX-Sector. If anyone has a spare harness for the 80b display/speaker panel or even just the display connector that they would sell pls let me know. Thanks

That would be awesome. Here is a couple pictures of the other end of the speaker and display harness.

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The harness i really need

harness (resized).PNG

The A10J4 is no big deal I can just use a generic connector for that and run some new wires.

Excellent. So how do I go about getting a few connectors from ya? Just order off your website?

Do these connectors have the ribs in them or does that even matter?

Cool. They look great. You will be seeing my order. Thanks.

That’s awesome, great work. I have used these connectors for my TX build and they are awesome.

Super glad to see ya got them in the States.

Agreed

Thats not what im seeing, I see $.32

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Hello Im looking to service the power supply on my Robowar as the voltage is being alittle erratic. Does any one have a link for the 5v 500ohm 1w pot that would work on this?

Yeah I had looked at those and they are reasonably priced. I'm not a purist by any means but would like to keep the original board. I have 3 80B games currently plus a Monte Carlo that I have sold and this is the first issue I have had with the power supplies.

Which one do you use? The 80b calls for a 1w but am only seeing .25 to .5w.

Looking for some help on a Chicago Cubs Triple Play. It has no sound. I have made sure all voltages, checked resistors, 7404 chips, continuity from the driver board, switched out driver with known good driver, reflowed daughter board, reseated sound rom, continuity from sound board to volume knob then to speaker, speaker increases humm when you turn it to max. Running out if things to check, ready to shotgun some chips. Any help appreciated.

This is the sound only ma-490 with the ma-488 daughter board. Thanks

I cross posted over on the Robo-War page also but am looking for a new Robo-war translite if anyone has a lead on one. Thanks

Added another 80b to the collection. Arena.

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Hey guys looking for a Arena manual with schematics. Send me a message if ya have it available. Thanks

Hey guy’s looking for a nos or new RoboWar translite. Let me know if ya have a lead. Thanks

Nope no need. Have you done the mpu-driver connector mod yet?

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Adding_Ground_and_5V_Connections_to_Interconnect_Harness

Looking for a working or non working 80B CPU

RDBowers makes great replacements.

Yes 5.3 is high but shouldnt be causing an issue that you are seeing.