Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by gweempose
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#1141 2 years ago

Anybody happen to have an extra working 4 digit display that you would send me? Like a noob I snapped the teet off mine while trying to get the connector back on. ((Working on a Touchdown.))

Word of caution!! I was putting the connector back on one handed! My thumb was at the top and obviously wrapped to the back edge. As soon as I heard the snap (didn't take much pressure) I knew exactly what had happened. I was like FFFFUUUUUUUUUUUU.........just like "Christmas Story." Always use two hands in the future!!

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#1142 2 years ago

OMG! I just realized I have never joined or been accepted to this "club".
I apologize for not introducing myself on here first. ((Prior to posting the need for a 4-digit futaba display))

I got my first pin 2 years ago. Mars God of War. Since then I've added a few more. Gottliebs that is.
I cut my teeth on SYS80, and... I guess its still my pacifier...so to speak. If I belong anywhere, it's here.

My current lineup:
Mars God of War
Black Hole
Amazing Spiderman

On deck (or maybe still in the dugout ):
Close Encounters of the Third Kind
- Still needs power supply work and fine tuning.

On the disabled list:
Touchdown
- needs 4-digit display now.
- looking for backglass or at least someone to scan theirs and send data.
- missing "cheering" sound (any thoughts), 2 pop bumpers not working, players 1&3 are missing millionths digit.
- anyone have manual/schematics to share?
- needs full clean and massage
- needs playfield glass

Gottlieb SS baby.

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#1145 2 years ago

Thanks for the reply & advise. Much obliged.
- It looks like PBResource has refurbished boards, but they are out of just the glass which is what I need (at minimum). My back might be up against the wall though.

- I will check the DIPs on the sound board tonight for the "cheering" sound. Makes sense cause it could get a little annoying. Maybe?

- For the pop bumpers, I've already ruled out the switches...I will pull the PBDBs tonight and review solder. I originally had one that didn't work (middle RH). When I was trying to determine which board went with which bumper another one (outer RH) stopped working. All fuses are correct value and still good. Guess I can always look for power to rule out wiring. Checking components and rebuilding PBDBs may be in my near future...I have one that hasn't yet had the recommended mod done to it.

- Score Displays... my thoughts as well. Looks like millionths on #1 & #3 is a digit issue D16. Connector A1J3 wire16. Chip Z26 pin8. I'll check wiring and also for failed chip. Shout out to Pinwiki!

Any one else out there have a 4-digit display they could part with out of the kindness of their heart??

#1147 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

I have an extra 4-digit display

Your offer is stand up, however, I ended up finding a replacement NOS 4-digit display (just the glass) on eBay. Pulled the trigger prior to seeing your post. I removed the glass from my board late last night. Now waiting for arrival. If it falls thru I'll have to PM you.

Regarding the PB caps. One of mine is broken, but the others look good. I will have to order from PBResource for other things so I was planing to get caps from them as well.

And an update:

Quoted from REGNE:

Chip Z26 pin8. I'll check wiring and also for failed chip.

I did find, by checking using diode mode on the DMM, red on pin7 black on pin8 was 0.080. Chip was already socketed. Pulled and replaced the 7404. Need to get all boards back in the cabinet, but I assume the millionths digit issue will be resolved.

2 weeks later
#1181 2 years ago

Xenon75, all I have right now. Sucks right? I took this pic during my tear down. I try to get you what you need tonight unless someone else beats me to it.

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#1206 2 years ago
Quoted from Xenon75:

Can any mars god of war owners please post or send a picture of the wire harness that connects the chaser board under the playfield to the LED strip above the playfield? I need a pic of both ends please, to create my own.

Xenon75, Got the pics. Hope this helps you out. Sorry for the delay.

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6 months later
#1455 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Does anyone know what the two pots on black holes sound speech board adjust? Voltage? Volume?

R15 and R16 are both 10K pots (resistance adjustment.) You can adjust the volume of the sound and speech relative to each other. Adjust the volume of the sound with R15. Adjust the volume of the speech with R16. The main volume pot (volume up/down) can be found inside the cab through the coin door.

1 month later
#1489 1 year ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

Anyone know why the ball in the trough always kicks out whenever I turn the power on my TX Sector? So annoying.

Happened on my MGOW until I rebuilt the power supply, but looks like your PS on that 80B is a bit different.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#System_80B_Power_Supplies

Make sure your terminals/connections to and from the PS are nice and clean or re-crimp new terminals. Also, remove old and reflow new solder at the PS header pins. See here also.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Recommended_Repairs_for_the_System_80B_Power_Supply_Board

Also take a look at this. You may want to look deeper into de-thunking it.
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Power_on_.22Thunk.22
Power on "Thunk" --> "...on some games, the thunk can be very annoying by pulsing the ball release coil under the lower apron. The result is a ball being served into the shooter lane, before the MPU board even boots up."

#1497 1 year ago
Quoted from Caseman0202:

Hey Guys! I need some help, I'm totally green when it comes to working on pins and am having some issues with my Gold Wings. The game keeps resetting in the middle of a ball and does not seem to be caused by a single issue, it just happens about 10 seconds to a minute into playing a ball and hitting a number of targets/switches etc. The power all stays on, it basically just goes back to attract mode every time. What can I do to determine the issue?? Thanks!!

Sound like a similar issue I had on my Touchdown.

Might be slam tilting. Use a wire lead with alligator clips to temporarily close the slam switch on the coin door. If this fixes the issue, I usually clean slam switch with a business card and adjust the switch. You could also look up how to mod the MPU to bypass the slam switch.

If you've got good voltages...Another idea for flakey resetting is to clean the legs and reseat all socketed chips on the MPU. I use a regular pencil eraser to clean the legs, and I support the legs of the chips by utilizing my bar countertop/workstation. Make sure to do them one at a time so as not to get them mixed up and reinstall them in the proper orientation observing the notch or dot of the chip as pin1.

2 weeks later
#1506 1 year ago

mima
Steve at bgresto.com might be able to help you out with your Charlie's Angels.
((This one here looks like its the SS version though.))
http://bgresto.com/?p=1724

1 month later
#1589 1 year ago
Quoted from Antennaejim:

reset on a system 80b!

I had an issue with dirty chip legs not making contact in their sockets. (ROMs on the A1 board if I remember correctly.) caused resets on my Touchdown until I got them cleaned. Happened only after warming up too. Take out and clean legs on all socketed chips and inspect/clean sockets too.

3 months later
#1771 1 year ago

Just posted over to the Black Hole club. Thought I'd check here too.
I've got a good player transforming into a great player... In the middle of a teardown. I'm in need.

- Blue Plexi for credit & ball in play on apron
- "B" drop target
- Top PF: LH lower playfield - small triangle
- Top PF: RH lower playfield - below RH flippers

Also, does anybody have water transfers already done for the pop bumper areas?
This image is my cleaned up and waxed state. Not sure if I want to paint (newb). Also a newb to water transfer.
I'm considering just installing new GTB mylar disks and call it a day, but I am interested in transfers.

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#1773 1 year ago

desertt1
Step one: channel the spirit of blownfuse
Step two: Listen to forceflow
Step three: Make sure your Voltages are stable.
Step four: battery corrosion?
Step five: good connection to the PCBs? Repin necessary? Do you have 5v on PCB?

I have a Touchdown that was similar. Would start a game but had random resetting. Tried to kick the ball out but repeatedly but failed. Was then blowing the solenoid fuse. Would also sometimes randomly kick ball into the lane on other ocassions. Like when we were watching a movie. My voltage was stable from PS. I took all the chips out of sockets and cleaned them with an eraser. Same result. Wonky. Did the wigggle/jiggle of the chips and found the game ROMs on the PCB to be to blame for the random ressetting. I replaced sockets with machine pin sockets. Same. Found out I needed to clean chip legs more aggressively than an eraser on U2 Game rom. (Chip that is just south of the Premier label in the image.)

I think you might have some other chip issues with the PCB too, maybe, but wonkyness is proportionally related to the quality of the connections. At PCB edge connections and sockets to chips. Oxidation and corrosion are your main issues I believe.

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1 month later
#1855 1 year ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

System 80a, Jacks to Open.
There is a wire, purple/purple/purple (777), that runs from the 4 digit Status display, 1A5J1-2, to the MPU A1J3-16. But instead of stopping at that connector it goes through the IDC connector for about 5 inches and is broken off. I can't for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to go by either searching for the other end or by looking at the schematic.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Al

I don't know if this is your case or not... I had found a similar wire on my bro-in-law's Caveman. (Extended wire past an A1 IDC connector.) I believe in our case the wire was previously connected up at the MPU reset connection (locate the reset board and follow its harness back to the MPU). Previous owner had replaced the wire harness between the reset board and the MPU and must have pulled wire out of the original IDC/socket at the MPU location... I still have not connected it up.

#1858 1 year ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

That wire does go to the reset board: A24J1-3.

Glad to hear I was of help.

Huskers are my home team. However, I graduated from Kansas State so I tend to root for them more on game day.

Quoted from Alan_L:

The displays at power up either show one zero in the far right position at Player 1, Player 3 and the Status display, or, on every other power up they show all zeroes with strobing. In either case they come on right away, no four second delay.

All fuses are good?
All proper voltages coming from the A2 power supply? (There are test points.)

Sounds like its possibly in slam mode. I have used an alligator clipped lead to jumper the slam switch on the coin door...to temporarily bypass it during diagnosis. If that's the issue clean the switch and make sure there is continuity. My @Touchdown boots quickly. Does not take 4 seconds, but it then begins to toggle between zeros and high score.

Oh...and yes! Your edge connections could definitely be to blame. Clean board edge with pink eraser, Re-pin connectors, etc. Finally your MPU may be acting wonky. (crusty sockets, chip legs, etc. due to battery corrosion)

Can you toggle through test using the button on the coin door?

#1865 1 year ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Definitely a possibility. Z7 & Z8 are cheap

This is a good check for MPU TTL chips. I’ve found many bad chips with this simple diode check method.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_an_integrated_circuit

My brief experience has led to quite a few 7404 and 74ls04... seem to be weak chips. Z7 is a 74ls04. Can’t hurt to check all the other chips on the board as well.

As far as the power drain. I think you are ok for now. At least look over the power supply for cold solder. You may need to rebuild it in the near future due to old weak components.

1 week later
#1888 11 months ago
Quoted from Boat:

Hey guys I am helping a friend with a panthera and need help with the battery replacement.

I went this route with my SYS1 and SYS80s. Memory capacitor from Ed at Great Plains Electronics.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CERS-1.5F-5V&cat=67

#1894 11 months ago
Quoted from zimjoe:

I have the Capacitors on a few Gottlieb 80b games. I mount them on a smaller board so I can reuse the holes for the original battery. It's not fancy, but it leaves the original board unaltered.

My method. Small wires, a little solder, heat shrink, and a bit of silicon.
Also not fancy and original board unaltered.

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1 month later
#2019 10 months ago
Quoted from Jon9508:

I am in need of some help. I have a gold wings it plays and scores good. The issue I am having is i have 5 lights that won't light up. It's the 50k,100k,200k and special. The are all in a row next the the vertical loop. Then I have the 16k light in the middle of the plane. I have looked at the Manuel but cant seem to find a light matrix table. I am thinking I have a transitor out some where but I don't see any thing in the schematics. Seems like they used the same 5 wires for everything. And it's a little different then the William's I have been fixing. I also have a dim light in the 5 running lights right under the clear ramp. Its coming on but very dim. Any help would be great.

- Check voltage (no voltage?) at lamp sockets and clean sockets if necessary.
- Make sure you have good clean connection at A3J2 and A3J3 (confirm continuity to lamp) maybe need repin connectors.
- look on page 48 to get lamp number.
- then page 27 and 28 for driver board A3 information for connector, transistor(Q) and chip(Z).

50K = L5 -> pin 3 A3J2 -> Q6 ->Z2
100K = L6 -> pin 5 A3J2 -> Q7 -> Z2
200K = L8 -> pin 10 A3J2 -> Q9 ->Z3
special = L9 -> pin 9 A3J2 -> Q10 ->Z3
16K bonus = L41 -> pin 3 A3J3 -> Q42 -> Z11

next trace back to A1 CPU (Z32), but is looks like the information on RH side of page 25 is missing? You would have other lights not working if that chip was NG. So I don't think it's an A1 CPU issue at this time.

dim bulb = clean socket and/or replace bulb

1 month later
#2165 8 months ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

I REMOVED pwr supply board A2 as it looked pretty rough, cleaned all pins/connectors and reinstalled. Unfortunately I must have damaged something???

I'm curious as to the backside image of your A2 board. Maybe you have "loose teeth" (cracked solder joints) around the pins at A2P1, A2P2, &or A2P3. I suggest at least reflow of fresh solder at these pins. Looks like a cap job is in your A2 future as well.

Quoted from Heaterguy:

Once I get game working again I will do Ground Mods and replace existing Nicad battery that hasnt leaked (yet) as well.

I recommend removal of battery from A1 CPU ASAP. Just get it off there. Today. You can always remote the battery later. I've used the memory cap from GPE on my Sys1 and Sys80s.

2 months later
#2320 6 months ago
Quoted from Matesamo:

What’s the easiest way to get battery saves back into the machine?

I put on a memory cap that I get from Ed at GPE (Great Plains Electronics)

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#2337 6 months ago
Quoted from davidlldennis:

(SW41,51,61) and left roll over (SW71)

They are all on "Return 1". It's 611 color wire at pin A1J6-11. see if you have good continuity back to A1. Check at a board trace to eliminate edge connector as a concern. If no, then wiring problem.
If yes, then "Return 1" traces to chip Z13 pin 9 on the A1. That's a 7400. probably bad. You can check it using a multimeter on diode test. Reference pinwiki for proper testing.

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