Help!
I recently bought a Super Orbit which according to seller was working fine until it suddenly stopped.

I kinda boots, but all coils are out including the flippers.

Spent some hours searching on the net and Im going to do the ground mods etc.

3 questions:

1. One of the things Im investigating is the Q/T relays, I am not sure where to find these, perhaps the black boxes circled in the pic?

2. The slam switch under the pf dont have continuety! when triggered by hand it shows 0.2-0.5v in continuety mode (game off). No beep. Is that correct?

Actually there are more switches that measures the same, not only the slam switch, i.e. no continuety even when triggered by hand. Shouldnt all switches "beep" when triggered?

3. I also discovered that all bumper coils, and some other coils, all have continuety between their lugs, which in turn has continuety to ground!
So both lugs are grounded, that seems odd?! There are diodes between the lugs, it cant be that all diodes are shorted?

Where do I start? Help!

20230329_194859 (resized).jpg

Well thank u sire, now I found the relays!
They seem to test fine but Im not sure if In doing it right. I tested the relay switches for continuety. The tilt relay had only 1 switch (rack), continuety obtained when moving relay by hand.

The slam tilt had a 3-rack switch (not sure about the name), the first one is NC and the other 2 NO, all switched fine when relay is moved.

I am cleaning all connectors etc BUT really think that the coils showing continuety between all lugs (also those with 3 lugs) seems strange, or is that normal? Where do I start troubleshooting this issue?

Thanks!

Thanks, Im gonna do that. Could a connector be causing the continuety between the coil lugs?
I was thinking maybe a shorted transiator on the driver board could be the cause, but I dont have the manual.

I tested all transistors on the driver board by grounding one lead and touching the metal tab on each transistor with the other lead.

The transistors below showed continuety to ground, does that mean that they are (all) bad?? Could i have found the error??

Q4, Q18-23, Q25-31

I have a Super Orbit (Gottlieb system80a) that I finally got to work!
There are a few issues still that I would need help with. I dont have the manual so it is a pain to understand where I should start.

SWITCHES:
4 Switches are not registering points, and failes in the dignostics menu. But they are testing OK with the dmm (shows continuety when activated).
Among those is the slingshot switch, slangshot fires when hit by the ball, but no points registered.
Same thing with one of the pop bumpers (fires but dont register any points).

POP BUMPER:
The third pop bumber is not working at all (no points and dont fire).

DISPLAY:
Working OK. But when not in play, it shows "0.000.000" for 5 seconds, then "2.000.000" for about 1 second, then back to "0.000.000" and so on. This happens on all 4 displays.
Is that an error code, or a display issue? If display issue, where to start troubleshooting?

OTHER:
Q40 on the driver board test different than all other transistors (diode with a dmm and game off). It is not shorted, but tests about 800 mv both directions, while all other transistors test 800mv on one direction, and 1400mv the other direction.
Not sure if that is normal though. What does Q40 control?

I should add that I have removed all boards from backbox, and the pop bumper driver boards, and reflowed solder, cleaned contacts etc.

Appreciate ANY help here, it's a pain without the manual ;(

See above for replies thx

Thank you, I'll try to swap the boards.
How about the switches, what could be the issue when a switch tests ok with a dmm but not working in game? Leads soldered to switch seems ok.
Thx again

Thank you so much for this! SO next step for me is to buy the manual
Oh and I tried swapping the pop driver boards, and the error is now showing up on another pop bumper so YES, it seems that it is one of the pop driver boards causing the issue! I removed the suspected board (again) together with another working one, and measuring with the dmm shows the same results on both (checked all components and traces, including diode testing the chips). That makes me think that I need to reflow all solder on the non-working board, again. Worth a try at least... can´t figure what else could be wrong witht he board.

Yep I did. Really strange thing that everything is testing fine. Was hoping to find something. Guess I should order a new board

Yes I verified the bolts/nuts making continuety as they should. Here are pics, but really Ive spent hours comparing to a working board, visually and by the dmm, and cant find anything that differs! The transistor shows slightly less value compared to the working board, like 550 mv instead of 600 mv, but should still be ok i guess.

20230405_142618 (resized).jpg

20230405_142628 (resized).jpg

20230405_142640 (resized).jpg

So an update on the pop bumper driver board issue. I finally fixed it! It was the cap C3 that was bad and needed replacement. Looked good to the eye, but tested bad with the ESR meter.

Next issues to solve are some switches that tests good with the dmm, but dont register in game. One of them is one of the pop bumper switches.
I cleaned them with alcohol but that didnt do the trick
They seem to be adjusted OK... ideas?

Found this on pinwiki, but not sure where to put the jumper wire..?

"Place the game into switch test
Using a short length of wire, short each column drive to each row return, one at a time
A single switch closure should be shown as each connection is made."

I think I got it, but need to doublecheck before I do something stupid
To test the right pop bumber switch, using the jumper method:
I should remove the A1J6 connector, power on the game and put it in switch test mode, then put a jumper wire on the connector (the male connector on the board) between pins 3 and 12. Is this right??

Screenshot_20230407_221529_Gallery (resized).jpg

Thanks! So I am right by putting the jumper on the board "pins" (i.e. the edge connector pins)?

Thanks a lot! Going to test that tomorrow. Cheers!