Looking to add the additional 5VDC and GND connections to the interconnect harness as described in the pinwiki and recommended by Todd in the TNT videos.

Looks like the referenced connectors are no longer available from Great Plains. I know I can order a rebuild kit from Docent for the full connector but didn't know if there was a more economical option since I just need the two additional connections?

Thanks

Thanks CactusJack

Sadly I am only into pins at the moment so don’t have access to a JAMMA connector. I’ll keep an eye out for a junk harness I could scavenge from but now that I know a JAMMA type connector will work, I can keep an eye out for one of those also.

Thanks! Good find - I'll need crimpers, I believe this should work?

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W-HT-1919

That’s nice work, very neat looking! Thanks for the idea.

Nice! Cool game, I don’t have a Gold Wings but I think I can help on a couple of your questions.

2) According to this site (https://www.pinitech.com/switch_database.php?name=Gottlieb_Gold_Wings), those appear to be your trough switches.

3) Unless it’s been upgraded to NVRAM, scores are saved in battery-backed RAM. It sounds like the battery could be dead. If you haven’t already, I would check out the MPU to see if you still have the original battery on the board and if so, I would remove it ASAP. If you’re lucky, perhaps someone upgraded to a lithium coin cell or remote battery and that battery has just died.

As others have said, there are some different options... at least 5 in fact according to pinwiki, each with their own advantages and drawbacks: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Battery_Leakage_and_Corrosion.

NVRAM is also a great option as it gets rid of the batteries altogether but the 5101 RAM chip is not in a socket and would need to be desoldered from the board which can have its own challenges.

Has anyone ever had any issues with using a reset generator on an 80B board? Here’s why I’m asking:

When I got my Monte Carlo, the board in it was toast from corrosion and I rehab’d it as a learning experience.

I had the board booting, playing, etc. but every few startups, the roulette wheel and some computer controlled lights would lock on, sometimes would kick a ball into the shooter lane. Restarting, everything was back to normal. Swapping in a known good MPU, it ran very reliably every time, so the driver board seemed good.

I used an MCP130 generator in the reset section. Somewhere I read that it changes the reset delay from something like 50ms to 150ms, which increases the “thunk” and that thunk can cause weirdness in different games depending on the solenoid setup (like the roulette wheel).

Given it happens intermittently at startup, I was considering rebuilding the reset section back to original spec to see what happens but wanted to see if anyone’s had a similar issue before doing so.

Thanks!

@noflip95 thanks for the in-depth reply - and your dedication to these great machines .

I believe I used an MCP130 because there was no MCP100 available at the time. However, looking at the data sheet it looks like there’s an internal 5k pull-up on the reset line of the MCP130 from what I can see:

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/268/11184d-68220.pdf

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Thanks for the info on the driver mod. Before making any additional modifications...

Given that the board having issues is the one that was repaired, and the known good one workes fine (even with unmodified driver board), my approach is that I wanted to get the boards back as close to identical as possible since the only difference that I’m aware of component wise is the reset circuitry.

By setting the boards identically, I’m hoping to uncover whether the observed issue is attributed to the difference in the reset circuitry and/or some other gremlin introduced during repair that I haven’t yet uncovered.

Nice score, always wanted a Night Moves. Definitely aftermarket. Not sure if this is the same board (looks like it to me based on picture) but Marco has this listed as an 80B power supply replacement.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MA-645

Have you confirmed 5VDC from the power supply?

Hey Gang,

Has anyone re-pinned the A1J1 (+5V) connector on a system 80B?

I think these pins from Ed would work [08-52-0072]

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0072

I can’t quite figure out how the existing pins come out, though . Do you need the molex removal tool for this connector or is there an alternative approach?

Thanks! My A1J1 connector doesn't have the little slots like in the video but it helps to visually see where the tail is on the pin so that I can try to disengage it.

Agreed and great news!

I would also add that Marco and PBR have a few of the game specific parts for this but it's a no go for any plastics or the translite for this game from what I've found.

Haven’t used them yet but that is John’s Jukes.

https://www.flippers.com/catalog/product_info.php/gottlieb-game-sound-promepromgals-p-2802

FYI: there’s a note on the page for Panthera that you’ll receive a single EPROM instead of two, so you may need to perform some jumpering if your board hasn’t already been modified for a single EPROM.

.

Finally got around to rebuilding the flippers on my Monte Carlo using parts from PBR (coil stops, sleeves, plunger/links, return springs, EOS switches).

I noticed when a fast ball hits the flipper while fully extended, the flipper will drop ever so slightly and then re-energize. This happens on both flippers. I re-adjusted both EOS switches and confirmed they're properly opening at the end of stroke. It's not necessarily causing any issues but I don't remember this happening before the rebuild and wondered if it was normal?

Thanks! Appreciate the second opinion before I go pulling everything apart again.

I’ll double check the coil wiring today but I did take pictures too, so I’m pretty sure they’re wired how they were before the rebuild. When engaged they do require a bit of force to push them down. And of course if they’re pushed below a certain point the EOS closes and full power kicks in and the flipper bat kicks back up fully.

I plan to check the flipper set screws as well to make sure I have those tight enough!

Hey chuckwurt - the coil wiring was OK and I even re-soldered the connections and re-adjusted the EOS just in case, but no change. Compared the new parts vs. old parts and realized that the coil stops in my rebuild kit were a little different and a bit longer than my old ones (after some research, the old ones were proper, the new ones appear to have been intended for early System 1). Swapped in the old coil stops and they're holding strong! I'll pick up some new stops on my next PBR order but for now the Monte Carlo is flipping again!

On my Monte Carlo, most of the retaining clips on the board standoffs in the backbox have snapped off. I saw this thread which is helpful, but it deals with Volcano, a regular system 80 game https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fyi-exact-replacement-gottlieb-sys-80-pcb-stand-offs#post-6444807.

Has anyone replaced the board standoffs on a system 80b? I wondered if it was necessary to pull the whole back panel of the head out to replace a standoff or if they could be unscrewed/unclipped from the front?