I was searching for those Bifurcated terminal pins all over the place without any success . Those suggested look OK !
I had to hack some cheap Chinese jamma connectors , and the result was more than OK .
You need some soldering but it is an easy and robust solution

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Just a reminder to system 80 owners.
Yesterday the coil that ejects the captive ball on my robowar was not energizing. In test mode everything else was ok except that one. It is solenoid number 3. The coil tested good with a multimeter. I was going to start checking transistors and MPU but before that ,I just cleaned and reattached the connector on the A16 transistor driver board. Everything works fine now.
Usually the solution to a problem with system 80 boards is a connector not making good contact.

Had some troubles with the 5v power supply on my Robowar some time ago. Found this little gem perfect for keeping the supplied voltage to the boards at exactly 5.2 volts regardless of load.
Price is around 5 or 6 dollars on Ebay and comes with over load protection and fully controlled output from 2 to 12 volts.
I am in the middle of restoring my robowar and remember how I solved all my troubles with this one.
The module is sitting on the original, dead , 5v power supply, for convenience.
Will try and find a link , but you can look it under switching power supply modules

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Quality control for Chinese products , especially electronics is not the best in the world.
But from my experience most of the times they deliver. I have this one running for more than 2 years and still works fine . The same goes with my rework station that I have been using for more than 4 years with perfectly consisted results.
Many times the same Chinese product is being sold under a brand name with double the price .
Any way , is an easy way to get your boards running under stable voltage , without overheating. If it fails you can always replace it.

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I did also post this on the "Robowar fun club" .
Rebuilding my Robowar and I need to know the location and type of the switch that turns the game on , which is on the bottom of the cabinet. The previous owner drilled an irregular hole and placed a rectangular one. Any images of that and of the mains cable that enters the back of the cabinet will be greatly appreciated.

Get a regulated adjustable power supply from eBay for 5 bucks .
I did it for my robowar and things run super smooth for the last 2 years

It’s been a long time ...
Do a search for “ DC-DC Step Up Down Boost buck Voltage Converter Module ” .
Usually the price is below 5 dollars

Typical specs are ...

Specification:
Input Voltage :4-35V
Output voltage: Continuously adjustable(1.25-25V unload adjust)
Output current: 3A Max(If more than 15W, please install the heat sink)
CC range :0-2A (adjustable)
Minimum voltage difference: 2V

What you need is turn the unregulated 12v input from the transformer to a regulated 5 to 5.2 regulated output from the module.

Bingo !
The output voltage remains constant , regardless of load.
Before you order ask if it can regulate down ( 5 volts ) . Some modules can only regulate only upwards from input until their max nominal volt output.

get a ".. 5A DC-DC Boost Buck Step-down Constant Voltage Current LCD Power Supply Module .." for 8 bucks and you are done.
for a 6.5V - 36V input you get a regulated 1.2V - 36V output , and is rated for 4 amps. you can get the less luxury one without a display with 5 bucks.
I got the cheaper version and works fine on my Robowar.
I know the opinion some people have for Chinese products but often you get quality items for really super price.

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