With 2900 plus posts hopefully someone can shed some light to a 80b newb.

Picked up my 1st 80b for my girlfriend. She is a gottlieb fan. But no 1812 or cactus Jack's floating around our area and budget. So we purchased a raven for fair price for shape. Perfect for her as she likes sniping targets over multiball. When I looked at pin it played with no sound and would shut down. To get into the car I had to pull back box.

Got home last night and immediately put it back together cleaning as I went. To my surprise game played fine full sound etc. The ramp coil was burnt up. Plunger could not slide through it. But we played like 6 games before it did a reset. Went to bed and dug into it today.

Lifted up playfield, removed ramp coil wires/taped them up until replacement coil comes and did the ground mod at transformer. The back side of the male bolt down part at the transformer did have some corrosion. Noticed a wire in middle bridge not hooked up with a non gottlieb wire that Is soldered in with the Gottlieb wire but I have no clue where it goes to. It is currently taped up.

Get done and go to play but no more power at the uncontrolled solenoids. Pop bumpers/flippers/kick rubbers. Controlled solenoids/lights all work. Can run through self test no issues

Have voltage at all my fuses found at transformer. I Checked ground circuit from playfield to transformer ground spot via voltage drop. Ground is good. Power supply in back box voltage checks out. Confirmed my 5v readings by testing chips on various boards to make certain they were reading same as voltage supply.

No power at fuse 12 through 15. No 5v at pop bumper boards. Can continuity test from respective fuse to solenoid and it checks out.

My eyes hurt from reading diagram on cell. But only thing that makes sense is tilt or game over relay is shutting coils down. Is my mysterious bridge wire tied into this?

As I type this the other thought popped up that me removing the coil for the ramp took away my voltage for other items? As ramp coil is fused on 16 on playfield. I unhooked coil and all 3 wires. I'm trying to find it on diagram but have not yet. I'll print it out at work to where I can read it easier.

So any input from the crowd?

Thanks in advance

Good ideal. My coin door wiring is hokey. I lol check it out after work.

Well was not the slam switch. That wiring was unhooked and skinned to short two wires together then taped. So fixed it and the credit switches.

Lifted up board and looked at game over and tilt relay. The game over relay was cockeyed contacts touching.

Fixed that and game now works.

To be 100% just need coil for ramp, 1 kicker leaf and new rubbers.

So I'm happy. Cant wait until girlfriend comes home from work to play it.

Only thing "off" is game sits very high. Front legs are 27 rears are 28.5 inches. Game leveled out still runs at a 8-9 degrees. Feels off to me.

I agree 100%. But even jacking front legs up rears down I can't get it lower. Would lead me to think rear legs were swapped out. Can anyone confirm leg sizes.

Thank you for info.

Did you check the relay on far back of playfield? I have bumped this relay on more than one occasion on various 80bs I own while working on playfield raised against back box.

Welcome back in! I agree that 80b is still best bang for buck. Just hope others dont realize this. As there is like 4 more I wanna pick up.

Maybe a stupid question. But is there a way to skip the end bonus on 80b games.

Example- today on hollywood heat I put up a monster score 25mill overall. 9 mill was in the end of game multiball bonus. I was afraid something was going to melt down after the high pitched adding points sound for what seemed like forever.

I Had enough time to go grab my phone off the charger, turn it on, boot up and take video of it adding points still. By time phone was turned on ready to go was still in the low 5 mill left of bonus.

Not an 80b question but a general gottleib question. Been heavy playing my Hollywood heat that the lane guide mount broke on the right side by the flipper. Took a pic of left side still in tact.

Is this available separate? Trying to find part number for it to order. The manual for hh does not show that part/part number.

Same bracket is on raven's upper guide as well. Raven manual doesn't show it either.

Thank you in advance

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Thanks for the insight and prompt replies. I'll reach out to pbr if my local option falls through. Think a friend has some parts playfields that I may be able to salvage something from. Worse case I can spot weld something to work.

In case the above might help someone else out- name for that bracket is Flat Rail Clip. Part number is 22277.

$50 for plug in play is cheap when compared to cost of replacement board if you f up.

I have a vacuum assisted gun style solder sucker along with a dedicated solder station. It's still a pita and semi time consuming to do it yourself. Id hate to try and do this with a regular 2 setting iron and a wick or trigger pump sucker.

I feel your price point is fine. Maybe do quantity discount. I currently have 3 80bs, want 3 more lol.

what are the 80b mpu options these days? I see rd in stock. Have seen Swemmer but no place with them in stock.

Anyone else I'm missing? 1st time needing a mpu board so not certain what's out there.

Thanks

Mike

Thanks for info
Purchased it this morning

For my future reference seeing we are in same area what's typical timeframe until you receive a board? Looking down the road I have atleast 2 more 80bs I hope to get going this winter. Both do not have main boards.

This might be of help to some one in the future.

Bought a new schwemmer 80b mpu.

Installed in game would not boot. Swap the new mpu into another 80b wont boot.

Sent board in was told it is fine bench tested good. Board was sent back.

Try board again- same issues.

At this point I had multimeter and logic probe out. Working with negative tied to blackbox ground If I touched positive lead anywhere on logic path from z3 to u1 leg 37 or to cpu clock speed solder spot and I could get game to boot.

According to manual a sn7404n is installed on z3/11/12/16/17/26/27/34/35.

Swapped chips from 3 to 11 and game boots.

Swapped back 3 11 to original spots doesnt boot.

As of now everything is working with chips swapped from 11 and 3. Can rule out pin drag issue since I installed back no boot.

Chip that was in z3 reads sn74ls04n.

Chip that was in z11 reads 74hct04n

Drug home a spring break to work on. Didnt even plug it in just started ripping boards out doing normal stuff. Yet I have 3 questions.

1 can someone take a pic of ramp area please? Going to order new ramp yet the rig job is impressive. Would like to see what stock should look like. Appears extra post and zip ties?

2 what bulbs are you using under ramps and orange domes so not to melt. Both orange domes are heat melted

3 how did they get Ron Jeremy on the translite?

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