(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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#2622 8 months ago

Alright I have a dumb question. For the big cabinet capacitor can you use a snap-in 15K 25volt type which is typically used in WPC Driver boards similar to what's shown below? thanks

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#2624 8 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I did and it worked fine, but I ended up replacing it with a computer-grade cap with screw terminals.

Thanks. I tried this last night in my Alien Star which previously had 2 orange 6800 ufd 25v caps banded together (wired parallel) and for whatever reason didn't work? I was planning to buy a computer grade but thought I could get by in the meantime with the snap-in since that's what I had in hand. I'll have to troubleshoot tonight.

#2625 8 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Thanks. I tried this last night in my Alien Star which previously had 2 orange 6800 ufd 25v caps banded together (wired parallel) and for whatever reason didn't work? I was planning to buy a computer grade but thought I could get by in the meantime with the snap-in since that's what I had in hand. I'll have to troubleshoot tonight.

I have a follow-up to my earlier issue on my Alien Star. The other night I went to replace the 2 ancient orange 6800 ufd 25volt caps that were banded together in my cabinet. I replaced them with a single snap-in 15000 uhf 25 volt cap (non computer grade). After doing this it didn't work. When I turn the machine on it doesn't make any noise. I don't get any voltage on the Power supply board. I checked the 3 Bridge rectifiers in the cabinet and they are all within spec. I do get a small amount of voltage at the fuses but the game just seems dead.-I don't even hear any noise coming from the transformer.

I swapped in the old caps and soldered them in as they were before and it didn't make any difference. I also re-seated all of the connectors in the cabinet. the game is still dead. I checked all the fuses and they are all good, including the cabinet fuse. I even checked underneath the power supply where all the ground and power connections run and everything seems nice and tight.

Does this seem like something that will get fixed by putting in a new Cap or is there other issues? To me it seems like it might be an issue with the transformer or the power (wires) going into it? I know those rarely fail though and the only change I made was swapping in a cap (and then swapping the old one back.). is there a way to test the transformer? what other steps do you test if the problem exists somewhere before the Power board?

thanks!

#2627 8 months ago

Thanks. I've been studying up on pinwiki and Clay's guides but it seems like most of their troubleshooting steps are from the Power driver board onward. I thought it might be a problem with my cabinet fuse clip but I do get continuity. it's very odd!

I just ordered a capacitor online and it should get to me by Friday. Besides that, the bridge rectifiers, the fuses and transformer, is there anything more to test before going to the Power board?

#2628 8 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I have a follow-up to my earlier issue on my Alien Star. The other night I went to replace the 2 ancient orange 6800 ufd 25volt caps that were banded together in my cabinet. I replaced them with a single snap-in 15000 uhf 25 volt cap (non computer grade). After doing this it didn't work. When I turn the machine on it doesn't make any noise. I don't get any voltage on the Power supply board. I checked the 3 Bridge rectifiers in the cabinet and they are all within spec. I do get a small amount of voltage at the fuses but the game just seems dead.-I don't even hear any noise coming from the transformer.
I swapped in the old caps and soldered them in as they were before and it didn't make any difference. I also re-seated all of the connectors in the cabinet. the game is still dead. I checked all the fuses and they are all good, including the cabinet fuse. I even checked underneath the power supply where all the ground and power connections run and everything seems nice and tight.
Does this seem like something that will get fixed by putting in a new Cap or is there other issues? To me it seems like it might be an issue with the transformer or the power (wires) going into it? I know those rarely fail though and the only change I made was swapping in a cap (and then swapping the old one back.). is there a way to test the transformer? what other steps do you test if the problem exists somewhere before the Power board?
thanks!

Alright, I feel like a dumbass.... The issue was caused by an interlock switch which was located near the tilt bob in the cabinet. Do most games of this era have an interlock? it's not activated by the coin box or the coin door which I found a bit odd. -the switch is angled towards the back of the machine.

#2630 8 months ago

Will this capacitor be suitable for the cabinet? I tried it and the machine doesn't boot and has a lot of static noise?

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#2631 8 months ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Will this capacitor be suitable for the cabinet? I tried it and the machine doesn't boot and has a lot of static noise?
[quoted image]

Capacitor is working just fine now. Must have just taken a while to charge up and get acclimated in the machine.

3 weeks later
#2726 7 months ago

What did I do? I was closing the backbox light panel on my Alien Star when all of a sudden I heard a loud "pop" and my displays went dead. Checked fuses and F3 was blown. popped in another fuse and the displays came back on (player 3 had a segment out) but within a few minutes I heard another pop and the fuse blew again and displays went dead. I then unplugged all displays but player one and it powered on and was fine. Did the same for the others and determined that player 3 was the problem.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what happened and what I can do to fix it? If something pops like that is it usually a capacitor? Thanks!

1 month later
#2916 6 months ago

Does anyone have an extra working 7 digit display I can buy? Maybe left over if you upgraded displays?
One of the displays in my Alien Star went out. Pn: ma238 or C-21390.

Are these easily fixable? If I leave this display plugged in none of the displays come on but if I unplug it everything works. I replaced the main 1ufd capacitor and the resistor tests fine on the display. I moved it to the four player slot so I can at least play 3 player games but it would be nice to get everything working. Any suggestions on what to try? Thanks!

#2918 6 months ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

I might have one, but not sure. I have a box of various displays. I’ll check either today or tomorrow and let you know.

Sounds good. Thanks for checking!

4 months later
#3142 42 days ago

I'm shopping out my Diamond Lady and putting it back together but I'm unsure where these two metal brackets go? Took lots of pics but not good enough apparently. Any one have any ideas? Thanks!

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#3144 42 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

those usually show up on either side of ramp entrances, zoom in and look closely at this image I think you can just make them out https://www.ipdb.org/images/678/image-10.jpg

You're exactly right. Thank you! Now my ramp will be better protected.

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