Can overseas members join too ?? I own a Volcano, Black Hole (originally an export model but transferred to a USA version with parts of Volcano and Mars God of War backboxes), Haunted House, Genesis (my favorite 80B game), Monte Carlo, Diamond Lady, TX sector (my 2nd best favorite 80B game), Big House, Excalibur and Bone Busters. I really like these Gottlieb games and also the technical stuff.

In our gameroom in Etten, Holland, there are several more system 80 games as Mars God of War, Ready Aim Fire, Hollywood Heat, Spring Break, Robo Wars and Bad Girls operational and some more in storage......

As being a "repairman" i wrote my own test Eproms for Gottlieb system 80 boards after experiencing some unreliable results and confusing indications from Leon's test Eprom. These are a big help for me as i repair many board for our gameroom and other people as well.

Thanks This gameroom is run by 4 people. I take care of the electronics and a lot of the technical stuff. We are currently working on a Punk!

Thanks Jasper! Very rewarding to repair your boardsets; you did a great job with Night Moves and Rack 'm Up. Do you already like the background music of that one ??

Well, last weekend I visited THE pinball event for Gottlieb system80 guys in Sorgues, France. Except 4 games, every system 80 game was there. I met very nice people and see some very special games....

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/\/\arco

The Games, Punk!, Force II and Rack 'm up. And I doubt if I did see a Diamond Lady.

ok

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Not a Gottlieb but also very rare, a Voltan:
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JR Karr (très sympa!) doing some battle damage repair:
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Next year we'll be there again!

/\/\arco

It is a yearly event, every year there is a different theme.

http://flipsud.fr/

Besides that he is a very nice guy!

I counted 3 Spirit's there.

Marco

Also keep in mind that after rectifying the 25V AC you will need a capacitor to flatten the voltage. This will result in a 35V DC voltage which will smoke your motor. You will need to use a series resistor to bring the voltage down for the motor.

I am in the same boat by the way. The auger motor in my Big House is busted too. I am working on a solution with a stepper motor. Can be a nice Arduino project if you are in to that.

But curious about your results with this motor. Good luck and keep us informed!

Marco

I hope you are right, it will make things a bit easier. I don't know how this type of motor will respond on an 100Hz DC voltage with a 35V top value. I am curious about the result.

Where did Gottlieb get their inspiration from?

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You can download the freeplay gameroms from here:

https://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php

Ground mods are not needed in those late system 80B games. Especially using the 5V heatsink as a groundplane is WRONG. Is there 5V present over the 100uF cap on the CPU board?

Gottlieb used decent connectors at those later system 80 games; 0.156KK with trifurcated crimp terminals at the transformer assy. Just repin those if you are in doubt a next time.

You know where to find the +5V powersupply with the heatsink? It has 2 connectors; the outgoing +5V side is where a little potmeter is located. Put the leads from your multimeter in the 2 most outer pins. It should read 12V (or -12V with the leads reversed). If present, put the black lead in the pin where the white wire goes in at the incoming side and put the black lead in one of the pins at the putgoing side. It should read +5V or something close tpo that (> 4.9V, < 5.2V). If present put the 2 testleads from your multimeter over the 100uF cap close to the small power connectpr on the MPU. It should read +5V again. If a voltage is missing, check your freshly made connections at the transformer assy (pull at those wires), and also the +12V fuse at the transformer assy.

Hope this helps….

2N5884 are okay. You can try to add a 4K7 0.25W pull up resistor to the Base of this transistor, the resistor permanently connected to 25V.

Like this -> 25V ---[ ]--- Base 2N5884.

It is a modification Gottlieb standard performed with the under playfield mounted PNP transistors in later system 80 games starting with Black Hole.

The upper one (MA992) probably comes from a Bone Busters (kickback, left-below) and has a different timing and a jumper in stead of a diode.

Change:

resistor 33k (triple orange) -> 12k
resistor 150 Ohms (brown - green - brown) -> 220 Ohms
Cap should be 4u7
replace jumper wire for diode

System 80 popbumper boards are getting their +5V supply voltage from the switch matrix connector J6 at the CPU board. If this connector is damaged -often by a leaking battery- the popbumper boards will behave in a weird way - retracting the coils for example when powering up.

If desired….I do have a few of those for sale. As I live in Europe, shipment won't be cheap however…. Send me a PM for details if you are interested.

Marco

No it is not. On those newer style 80B mechs, the return spring runs from the other side of the crank (above the switch leaves) and is hooked on the most far wire lug which needs to be reinstalled here with the lug facing upwards. There are 2 installed here but you only need to use only one, most far from the crank. This wire lug needs to be isolated from the switch leaves. Rotating the lane changes switch leaves would do the trick if it is a seperate stack.

Another tip...take care when tightening the flipper crank to the shaft of the flipperbat. When it is too low, the whole flippercrank will rest on the lower bearing and when it too high you will get a sticky flipper. The last issue most of us will be aware of, but with the double bearing baseplates Gottlieb uses in system 1 and ststem 80, the first will be an issue too and you will loose power. It can be a bit of a hassle to get the crank floating between the 2 nylon bearings.

I wouldn't use the heatsink as a GND. The metal case from the LM338K regulator at the heatsink is connected to 5V. It is isolated from the heatsink with a thin mica shim. You are creating a potential short circuit between 5V and GND when connecting the heatsink to GND. It is safer to run GND wires to the yellow strap in the head as you suggested before.

I think its not some hackwork. It is a different version with Dionics (level converter) IC's which you don't see often. Not sure if the resistors inside the SIL resistor networks are used as pull-ups or series resitors. At most of these displays UDN6118 or UDN6184 are used. Atari also used Dionics IC's at some of their Gen1 displayboards and the Display Controller in Williams System3-6 games can also be configured for using Dionics level converter IC's.

Seems to come from a Volcano....additional rectifier with capacitor (which can be removed). I should expect issues if there are any with wiring and connectors.

Reproduction backglass for Devil's Dare made by Coos. Anyone see something special?

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Coos took the sexy Devilines from the proto backglass and added them to the production backglass. They can stay as far as I am concerned

Be aware there are 2 versions of these daughterboards/piggybacks. At earlier system80B boards, these are single sided boards and these are the ones which develops problems like cracked solder joints. Later, Gottlieb changed them to dual sided boards with plated holes. These are much stronger and rarely develop problems. Verify this before removing a daughter board / piggyback. As Slochar mentioned, they are hard to remove and the risk of damaging traces and plated holes at the cpu board when done without proper equipment and experience is high.

Maybe these?!

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255799851825036.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US

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Whoops, sorry about that. I was assuming it was intended for Black Hole...... Same seller however has similar 24VAC alternatives.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255799837629191.html?

https://www.flipprojets.fr/Proms80B_EN.php

I bought this synchronous motor at AliExpress and 3D printed a new coupler and shim. Works perfectly! The parts are printed in PETG, the shim needs 4 M4 threaded inserts and the coupler needs 2 M4 or M5 (don't remember) grub screws. I do have the STL's if you are interested.

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For the motor you need to specify a D shaped shaft, 24VAC, 30-36RPM and a CW (clockwise) direction of rotation.

Search for TYC-50 or JS-50B at AliE.