(Topic ID: 73213)
Linked Games
Alien Star
Gottlieb, 1984-
Arena
Gottlieb, 1987
-
Asteroid Annie and the Aliens
Gottlieb, 1980
-
Bad Girls
Gottlieb, 1988
-
Big House
Gottlieb, 1989
-
Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981
-
Bone Busters Inc.
Gottlieb, 1989
-
Bounty Hunter
Gottlieb, 1985
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Quoted from CactusJack:Give us volt readings of all three places on the big TO-3 transistor (in reference to ground). This will help us know where to begin.
No, the 5v wasn’t working before either.
I’m going to overexplain what I did so I don’t mess it up.
I put the black lead on the comm test point and measured the left most lead of the Q3. It fluctuates around .120. The right lead does about the same but gets around .140v
When I test the screw holding q3 I get around 15v. I’m assuming that transistor is grounding out to the plate then?
Quoted from CactusJack:No, if you have 15v to the screws (collector), then they are not grounding out. So, with only the 0.12ish volts to both base and emitter, it is further up the regulator circuit we have to look.
I will need to locate a schematic to guide you further, unless someone else steps in.
This might be too small since it’s a screenshot with my phone. I can grab a bigger photo tomorrow.
53243977-DD89-4B27-9AB0-1F10CA6417C8 (resized).pngQuoted from CactusJack:The 5 volt regulator circuit has an over voltage crowbar shutdown circuit consisting of SCR1, CR8 etc. If the 5 output rises above 5.6v, the SCR will short the output to ground. The LM723 regulator has an over current shut down feature. So, if either the voltage goes too high, or if there are shorts out in tge game or boards, the regulator will shut down.
So, it can be hard to troubleshoot the circuit.
With power off, try turning POT1 up and down serveral times to clean it, and then leave it at mid setting. Repower and retest.
It’s reading pretty much the same. Still hovering around .12v
Quoted from CactusJack:Otherwise, the process would be to remove SCR1 and retest to see if the 5v output is too high.
After that, would be to confirm all resistor values. If you get an odd reading, you would have to unsolder 1 lead.
Beyond that, I would suspect the LM723.
Interesting...that might explain why the center lead of the src1 was cut. I added a tiny jumper because I assumed the lead had just snapped or something.
Ok, I’m getting 2.68v at pin 10. So that means those through hole rivets at q3 aren’t right?
EDIT: sorry I counted wrong. Pin 10 looks like it’s 13v
Quoted from CactusJack:That would be what I suspect. After sucking up the solder in the holes, flow solder to the trace to adhere to the rivet but not fill the hole. Re-assemble.
You nailed it 
Got 5v now. Thanks for your help! Hopefully a little connector and ground mod attention and this thing will fire up.
3 weeks later
Hey everyone!
I recently picked up a spiderman and Im having a hell of a time getting this going.
When I turn on the game only the bottom two displays light up and the credit display lights up 8s. My MPU board looks pretty clean, but Im not sure if its good.
I recapped the power supply and changed out all the header pins on it and Im getting the right voltages. Ive repinned about half of the connectors so I will keep going on them, but I would think I could get the game to boot without the rest done.
If some of you system 80 wizards could guide me, that would be amazing
2 weeks later
If anyone needs a MPU I’ve got this one up for sale. Perfect for someone who’s more familiar with this board set. Open to offers
Springfield, MO
1 month later
I’m not sure if this has been done before, but I wanted to share a tip that I hope is helpful.
Everyone in this group has or will need to repin connectors. After seeing how much pin extractors cost and how easily they break, I decided I had to find a cheap way to get these bastards out.
My wife leaves Bobby pins all over the house and they seemed like a good thickness to work with. After grinding the edges down a little with a Dremel tool it fits perfectly and is surprisingly strong. I’ve probably done around 100pins with this one and haven’t broken it yet. Even if it does break, they cost a few cents each at Walmart so I can just spend another 5mins grinding the end down on another one and be good to go.
I’m sure there are a few more cheap people out there who will find this help
24B13236-DC88-49DF-ABAD-7B4E33C8AD08 (resized).jpeg31EF3F3E-710A-4CE9-A808-5DEB2FCDB689 (resized).jpeg 7 months later
Picked up two genies yesterday and I’m excited to get them going! Been looking for one for awhile and had to buy both.
If anyone is looking for a cheap genie project let me know. Backglass is pretty bad but you could have a decent player out of it. Game doesn’t play but boards are there.
2 weeks later
I had my cleopatra working great but after a week of play it has developed a problem where two chime coils and the right saucer coil lock on when the game is turn on.
I switched driver boards and the problem still occurs. Is there anything I need to check on the mpu? Anything else it could be?
Ground mods are done, stock mpu, stock driver board, aftermarket power supply.
Quoted from REGNE:Good solid edge connections? If so...
I agree try Z6 first, and then... Z6 leads back to U4... dying spider chip? also how's the corrosion?
My close encounters would require multiple power-on(s) to finally boot MPU. One day random/multiple coil lock-on(s) resulted. MPU was the culprit...chased back to the Spider. now running a LISY1 with the same power supply and driver board.
Thanks for all the tips so far everyone.
Mpu has super minor damage mpu damage right by the battery connection but that’s it. Will make sure my connectors are good them move on the z6. Thank you all again.
3 years later
My original countdown mpu has been draining batteries for quite awhile now and I'm getting tired of it.
I put in a diode and a button battery holder initially and it worked for awhile. I've replaced the diode a few times just incase that was the issue and I have the band facing away from the battery side.
If the ram is bad, can it be replaced on this boardset? Thanks for the help
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