(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by cp1610
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#2642 8 months ago

Hey Guys,

I didn't know where in the thread to post my question on ASM gottlieb system 80. Please ignore if this ruins the flow of your conversation directly above this post.

I'm hoping someone in the group has a photo for the following issue:

I attached that barrel and nut. It was just a hole, no barrel in place. I'm trying to add it back so it works as intended. For all I know, I bought the wrong lock for this mechanism. I just can't seem to find a picture online showing a fully working backbox lock mechanism. The previous owner tied two metal brackets (with black tie, see pic below) that appear to have a role...I just can't figure it out yet. I didn't attach the locking latch and screw that goes on the inside of the barrel (similar to latch used to hold coin door closed/locked).

Thanks!

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#2646 8 months ago

Thanks again BorgDog! Btw, got my new backglass installed, and I'm loving this pin.

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#2654 8 months ago

Hey srcdude! Yeah, the lock was completely removed. Maybe I should be careful adding it back. I'd hate to lock myself out of the backbox...but I can't resist...must repair...OCD kicking in. Good observation!

2 weeks later
#2741 7 months ago

Hey Guys!

I thought my Gottlieb system 80 Amazing Spider-Man was totally fixed until I watched youtube videos showing the bottom slingshot bumpers making sounds as the ball made contact. Also, the "Same Player Shoots Again" lamps are not working on the playfield or the backbox. I then noticed the switches for two SW 42 locations ( right middle adjacent to L26 and L49, upper right adjacent to L49 and SW 31) are not activating when ball makes contact. I repinned A1J5, A1J6, A3J2, A3J5, A6J1, and repinned specific wires at A3J1(B bar = Sound 1), A3J3(C bar = Shoot Again Lamp). Guys, I'm stumped and wondering if this goes beyond a simple edge connector fix. The schematic doesn't seem to clear the confusion on my end.

To sum it up, sound (and points?) not working for the 2 lower slingshots, 2 switches for SW 42 not working, and Shoot Again lamps (backbox and playfield not lighting). Does anyone see a pattern with these issues? I'm relatively new to using my multimeter, and may need to brush up on testing diodes, transistors, etc.

As always, I appreciate your feedback!

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#2749 7 months ago

Alright! 1/2 the issues resolved. I cleaned the "When Lit" lamp using dremel steel brush and works during lamp test...same with backbox. Still having issues with switch 42...strange how many of those items listed under sw42 work, but lower slings are still not providing that expected sound effect, and those 2 SW42 locations still not activating. I cleaned the switches with business card but still no luck.

Update to paragraph above: During gameplay, "Shoot Again" light still not activating, but I know those sockets work based on the diagnostic.

#2752 7 months ago

Hey RWH,

Dip switch 22 is neither on or off...kind of inbetween. I'll switch on to see if any difference is made.

Thanks!

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#2753 7 months ago

Switched dip switch 22 to on/off, without change...unless I am misunderstanding the rules for this "Same Player Shoot Again" feature. I figured it should come on for 1-player games. Is this the wrong assumption? Maybe it only comes on when a player, during multiplayer game, gets a bonus ball to shoot again? In that case, maybe I'll leave the dip switch 22 on.

Thanks again!

#2756 7 months ago

Thanks, BorgDog. Between this lamp and the SW42 issues, there's no clear cut answer.

#2761 7 months ago

Hey Guys,

I checked all the diodes underneath playfield and they all give good reading (0.4 to 0.8) for black lead on banded side, red lead on non-banded side. When I switch leads, no change shows on my multimeter, just the number 1. I also checked wires and switch blades at the two non-activating switches, and wires/switches at the lowers slingshots that aren't making sound effect when hit. Between these findings and the previous check of unplugging A1-J6 (which then showed all switches open per diagnostic of 99), this seems to be a connector issue or mpu. That surprises me since it's a newer rottendog board. I'll keep researching. I guess checking control board transistors is something to consider. Maybe I need to repin the double edge connector at bottom of driver board...who knows. It just doesn't make sense to me why many of the SW42 locations activate and have sound effect while a couple do not.

Fyi - I have the original untested control board, but I need to remove that Data Sentry battery, clean it up, and find out what chip is missing from top side (not sure what to buy for a replacement chip). This could be a good option for comparing the two boards.

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#2778 7 months ago

Does anyone have a rottendog control board in their system 80? I'm starting to wonder if SW42 issues I'm having, along with "Player Shoot Again" lamps are related to a flakey board. I have a multimeter and oscilloscope, but no digital logic probe. I still need to learn how to use the old oscilloscope, but anyways...I wonder if removing the chips and cleaning any dirt or corrosion at the plugs could correct the issues. Just checking to see if anyone has experienced similar issues.

Thanks!

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#2791 7 months ago

Docent electronics advertises them for sale, but I don't recommend them. Had to file for paypal refund since seller would not respond to my many emails and voicemails. Ok, enough about me...I would like to know who else sells those posts.

#2802 7 months ago

After pulling the rottendog control board, removing chips and cleaning sockets, cleaning all edge contacts, I discovered many the CR diodes are bad. CR# 10, 15, 17, 18, 23, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31 and 32 give a reading of around 1.6 when red is on banded side, black on non-banded side. Fortunately, I have a spare board with good diodes for replacing. I'll post if any progress is made.

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#2805 7 months ago

A fellow pinsider did me a huge favor (and spared you all from my constant posts) by informing me about Clay's guides. I'm going to dive deep into those guides. Before I begin checking IC's using my new elenco lp-560 logic probe, I wanted to post the latest. After cleaning rottendog control board U4, U5, U6, and ROM chips and plugs, I did not go through replacing those dip switch diodes mentioned in my last post. I retested those diodes, and checked dip switches, and everything was good. I also swapped U4 and U6 to see if all issues for SW42 would be corrected. No change as of now. Good news is that I ruled out some items without doing any further damage, and repinned the A1 display connectors (24-pin and 17-pin connectors). I'll have to post again when I've done more of my homework.

Thanks

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#2822 7 months ago

Alright Guys, I've read much of Clay's guides on system 80. One thing that I noticed is the free play mod. I used a mod from pinwiki which is an 18 gauge jumper between the middle coin slot and credit button, at the diode strip. After obsessing over all the possible wires associated with strobe 4 and return 2, which relate to my Switch SW42 issues, I never checked the male-female connector underneath the playfield, adjacent to the credit wires/diodes. There is a 9-pin connector that houses a green-yellow-yellow wire associated with strobe 4. I followed the wire and it appears to tie into where I jumpered for freeplay. Is this a coincidence? Could my jumper be affecting SW42, causing 2 switches to not activate, and the slingshots to remain silent (no sound effects)? This is interesting because the SWITCH diagnostic continues to say SW42 is closed, and the MEMORY diagnostic reads 99 (all RAM/ROMS good). I don't believe Clay's guides follow this jumper method for freeplay, and maybe he knows better. I'm just curious on your thoughts regarding this issue. I guess I can always remove the jumper and see what works.

Thanks!

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#2825 7 months ago

Update: Removing the free play jumper between Middle Coin and Credit Diode/Wire had no affect on SW42 issue. Jumper added back.

#2836 7 months ago

Problem Solved: The lower bent blade was making contact with both blades. After adjusting the switch blades, all sounds for SW42 locations, including those two lower slings, are working!!! Also, all SW42 switch locations now activate!

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#2837 7 months ago
2 months later
#2984 5 months ago
Quoted from REGNE:

I just want to say I love this thread. I check it daily, if not every other. You folks are the best and I consider you all part of my family. Enjoy my row.[quoted image]

Awesome collection! I really like the Gottlieb neon.

1 month later
#3031 3 months ago
Quoted from Luzur:

So, im gonna chime in with a quick question, i have a Goldwings that ive gotten to live again, it boots, credits up, starts a game and you get ball, sound, music, lamps, kickers, bumpers, flippers and everything, but alot of switches dont register at all, while others do, for example, the 3 targets on the aircraft carrier works like normal, but the others on the left dont, same with the 3 rollover switches up on top, neither reacts when rolled over, neither of the "roundabouts" react, but the ramp switch and the loop switch does.
Is this a chip or a matrix problem or a contact problem? have a steady 5.01 volts all the time and ive cleaned and scrubbed every contact in the game like 2 times now and ive resoldered everything that is solderable.
Its the last problem now before i got a fully working Goldwings.

I had the same problem with my System 80 Amazing Spider-Man. It ended up being a switch that was closed. Just go through all switches and check off the ones that register. For the ones that do not register, are they part of the same switch number? It has to do with the switch matrix.

Another problem could be caused by bad contacts at the driver board.

Hopefully this helps.

#3033 3 months ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Looks like this during a game:[quoted image]

I would definitely check the contacts if you have those edge connectors for the driver and mpu board. I'm assuming they are edge connectors for your system? It seems you have a variety of switches that are not activating. Also, check your manual for the switch matrix and see if the non-activating switches are along the same row or column. One switch can affect the others on that same row or column...can't remember if its row or column.

1. Check edge conectors at driver and mpu board for all wires associated with your switches.

2. Cross-check the switch matrix with the picture you posted above and see if there is a pattern. One switch can affect others along the same row/column.

3. You may need to repin. It's a fun project.

4. If repinning does not solve all switch problems, list your non-activating switches and see if there's a pattern to the failure. I ended up having one Switch number (several locations) affected because one particular location had a switch closed (maybe caused by installing new rubber rings)..

#3035 3 months ago

Hey Guys,

Does anyone know a good place to purchase a 2.75" long sleeve to replace an old Amazing Spider-Man knocker sleeve? The replacement coil I purchased came with one that does not extend beyond length of coil (I should have known). I'm also wondering if it's possible to use the shorter (coil length) sleeve instead of a longer replacement. I appreciate any feedback you guys have on this issue.

Thanks!

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1 week later
#3063 3 months ago
Quoted from Zorak:

Fyi Docent just scammed me too. 100 bucks for 2 80B connector kits and 1 system 1. Can’t get a hold of them or a response.

I had no luck getting in touch with Docent after they collected my payment. Shady, shady

#3065 3 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:

Isn't the owner in/out of the hospital - per the July 2019 notice on the front web page. Or has their been considerable amount of time lapse with your orders?
Am just curious. Thanks.
WP

I didn't see any notice on the website. I had placed an order maybe in March/April, waited a few weeks, no word...called, emailed, called, asked PayPal to step in...and that was it. Docent never responded to any of my calls or emails. Still have not heard from them to this date.

1 month later
#3140 46 days ago
Quoted from djsolzs:

On the same topic above the pin wiki states a single digit outage is likely a connection issue but I can’t get it resolved. Any other ideas on missing just 1 full digit?[quoted image]

Had the same exact problem with one of my displays (see pics - still not repaired). I think traces/solder in back of display need to be reflowed, for mine. Connectors were fine since a display swap worked.

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