(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)


By Gerry

5 years ago



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#1016 3 years ago

Hey system 1 guru's. I just added my second system 1, a Pinball Pool project to go with my Joker Poker. Full image is from the prior owner. Going in I knew it had issues and I figure worst case I would spend the money on a Pascal all-in-one board. At this point I'm looking for advice whether to just buy the Pascal or try and repair what I got.

Pinball1_(resized).jpg

As you can see there is a nice battery and some lovely corrosion on the front side of the MPU, while on the back you can see they cut off the connectors and soldered the wires to the board. Oh and more of the lovely corrosion While I was pulling the connectors in the back to clean things up, the pins and such pulled off the right side of the power board (original), not to mention a couple swollen caps. so I'm thinking to save myself some headaches and just buy the Pascal or should I spend the money on a new power board and hope I can get the MPU board working. If it didn't have all the wires soldered to it I could put in my Joker Poker and see if it works right...

Thoughts?

2016-04-15_22.42.11_(resized).jpg

2016-04-15_22.41.31_(resized).jpg

#1023 3 years ago

Thanks for the feedback, I was leaning toward just doing the Pascal and saving the possible frustration (who needs that?). I'll also look up the resistor mod and make sure all is well everywhere else. The under playfield is all very nice and clean and everything I've checked so far seems to be in good order. Have a couple coils to swap to the correct ones, and someone oiled a flipper so of course it sticks now. Many parts on the way from pbr including new plastics, rubbers and drop targets and the little metal pieces for the edge connectors, the connectors were still in the backbox with the chopped off wires in them. Stripping the playfield at the moment to at a minimum do a very good cleaning, and level some inserts, and if I feel brave maybe some touch up and a nice coat of clear.

#1029 3 years ago

Back with my next set of questions. A couple related issues.

The score display glass unit (whatever it's really called) for player 2 is currently only held to it's circuit board by the inputs at the bottom. unit still works but flops around, how best to secure it in place? Which leads to my second issue. Judging by the back of the backglass it's been this loose for a while. What is the best way to repair the area of the backglass the score shows through? I ran across https://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0374.html while searching which looks promising, is that the best way to go?

score_(resized).png

display_(resized).png

#1033 3 years ago
Quoted from hootowls:

I replaced the film in one of my back glasses with this. http://pinballswag.com/product.php?productid=2 No need to use a blade for removal - just carefully use clear packing tape and the film pulls right off the glass. Just keep it away from the artwork.
For the display I just used some double sided foam tape to hold it in place.

Cool, that film looks like just the thing!

Thanks for the suggestions everyone on the glass too, sounds like a common problem.

3 months later
#1118 3 years ago

A Ni-wumpf came in my Joker Poker when i bought it, have not had any issues seems to work just fine. I also recently replaced all the boards in my Pinball Pool with the Pascal all-in-one board, and it was quick and easy and also works just fine. Given the choice and especially if having to replace more than 1 board I would go the Pascal all-in-one for simplicity sake, but like I say my Ni-wumpf works just fine, no issues.

#1122 3 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

That's good to hear, Pinball Pool is what these boards will be going in. It already had a new Rottendog power supply in it. Steve Young at PBR said he wasn't 100% positive if the Rottendog power supply was compatible with these boards but said it would probably be fine.

I didn't mention it but my Joker Poker has Rottendog power and driver boards with the ni-wumpf so they are definitely compatible.

1 week later
#1128 3 years ago

Don't have an answer for that one, but the one time I e-mailed them they were very responsive. ace@ni-wumpf.com

3 months later
#1162 2 years ago

Nice looking Solar Ride. I just picked one up yesterday (as well as a Cleopatra), love the backglass art on this machine and my BG is in amazing shape, but hard as heck to take a picture of all the mirror!

Do you happen to know a source for plastics, the usual haunts don't seem to have any? A couple of mine are broken or severely warped.

2016-11-27 16.49.07 (resized).jpg

#1164 2 years ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

I have a second set, kinda yellowed, if you need any. Let me know what you are looking for.

Thanks, just picked up a couple used ones for my broken ones, and I'm going to try the heat to flatten my other warped ones, I'll be in touch if/when I mess them up The big one on the right, is the main one I'm going to attempt to flatten.

#1191 2 years ago

Got the new kids (Cleo and Solar) all setup and everything working right yesterday. Here's a pic of the current system 1 lineup, 1/4th of the way to having them all LOL. They all have different board setups, PP with Pascal's all-in-one, Cleo all original boards, Solar Pascal MPU original power and driver boards, and Joker with Ni-wumpf and rottendog power and driver, a little bit of everything. Looking for a nice Cleo backglass if anyone knows where one is, while I kind of think the seriously cracked look is kind of cool it is going to bug me over time.

2016-12-01 19.01.52 (resized).jpg

#1194 2 years ago
Quoted from Matesamo:

That is a nice looking lineup! I wish my Solar Ride backglass looked that good!

Thanks! Yeah, that backglass is in amazing shape, love the artwork on it, dang hard to photograph with all the mirroring though.

2016-11-28 07.09.41 (resized).jpg

#1202 2 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

What kind of luck have you had on the JP using a Niwumph MPU and Rottendog driver board? I had no luck that way, and Ace at Niwumph said it wouldn't work.

It was that way when I bought it a year ago, and seems to be working fine. Ni-Wumpf System 1 - rev. M, Rottendog System 1 Driver Board GDB001-1, and Rottendog System 1 Power supply GPS002-2 are the specific parts in this system. I'd probably run with Ace says though. If I need to buy boards in the future I'm probably going with the Pascal boards, more specifically the all in one, works great adds neat features and i like the simplicity and less cables.

3 weeks later
#1231 2 years ago
Quoted from plowpusher:

Hey guys any Pinball Pool owners out there who have not rated it yet please take a few minutes to do so . Only need 3 more ratings to get it rated. Its one of my favorite system 1 games . Just would be fun to see if it can make the top 100

Done, but had to rate 4 machines to get mine to count as I had only done 2 ratings and now they wait review.

1 week later
#1242 2 years ago

Added a Count-Down to the stable. Up to 5 system 1's now (in purchase order Joker Poker, Pinball Pool, Cleopatra, Solar Ride, Count-Down), over 1/4th of the way to owning them all I bought it from a nice gentleman who had it in his basement for the last 25 years, working until recently. Found a couple shorts and wiring issues and it's all working again. Backglass is almost perfect on this one, playfield has the usual wear, and the whole thing needs a good cleaning and new rubbers and a couple correct drop targets, but very happy to have this one, it's one of my favorites.

2017-01-02 09.01.34 (resized).jpg

#1252 2 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

will start to restore these in the spring

you suck! and I mean that in the nicest way possible would love to take one of those off your hands, the system 1 grail pin.

#1262 2 years ago
Quoted from twoplays25c:

OK, I'll play.
Got it in April, 2010.
And it's still enjoyed, thank you Edd!

Very nice Cleo! are they supposed to be white?

1 month later
#1286 2 years ago

Yes I fight the stuck pins, have eventually been able to get them all out, the housing should be fine. There is Docent solder on connectors available as well (which you see a lot on Todd Tuckey videos), which I have bought because I don't have the originals (someone soldered the wires direct to the board), have not gotten around to installing yet.

http://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/System%20One.htm

2 months later
#1375 2 years ago

I would suggest getting a manual, but in the mean time here is the relevant part of the diagram.

countdown coindoor (resized).JPG

Oh, and make sure non of the coin switches or coin lock out coil are shorting out, both of those are frequent issues that cause weird stuff to happen.

#1384 2 years ago

Yeah, sorry about that, you probably need this page as well.

CDmatrix (resized).JPG

#1412 2 years ago

Dang, that's pretty. I don't think they looked that nice new, well done!

1 month later
#1465 2 years ago

For those that may not have seen it there is a new cpu board out for system 1 and system 80 that also allows rescipting the games using MPF.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-1-and-system-80-support-in-the-mission-pinball-framewo

2 months later
#1639 2 years ago

I've used an 18ga finish nail for a nail gun as a pin extractor (they are rectangular not round), did take a little grinding to fit.

1 month later
#1705 1 year ago
Quoted from chrisnack:

Anyone on here have a Joker Poker? Can you tell me what color the piece that sits between the head and the cabinet is? It's the piece that the head sits on.
I'm not sure if it's supposed to be black or white. Doing a restore and can't find pictures where I can see that part.
Thanks!
Edit: I THINK it looks like it's black... based on this pic.
http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1306&picno=27058&zoom=1

mine is black

2 weeks later
#1720 1 year ago

manual says A-18318

#1722 1 year ago

The coils are listed on the bottom of their respective schematic pages.

1 month later
#1797 1 year ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Sorry, Count-Down

I don't think you can disable the on playfield Extra Ball, at least not with stock MPU (not sure about others either).

1 month later
#1915 1 year ago
Quoted from quinntopia:

After nearly a year, a Sinbad I won at a 'blind' auction for $300 (no boards, minor damage to playfield) and a second Sinbad from Craigslist (drove 2 hours, discovered seller used a 'photo from the web' for his listing- really dude?) and lot's of trial, error and reading here and on pinrepair, my Sinbad project is up and running! Still a few minor tweaks, but here's a montage of the journey from the past year and list of everything that I did.
RESTORATION OF PLAYFIELD
REPAINTED PLAYFIELD BOTTOM
PASCAL p1-X4 BOARD
REPINNED CONNECTORS
FLIPPER REBUILD
NEW DROP TARGET RESET COILS
NEW DROP TARGETS
ADDITIONAL BOTTOM BOARD FUSES (see Pinrepair.com)
REPLACED A "4" BACKGLASS with a "7" and SEALED WITH TRIPLE THICK
COIL CHIME WASHERS REPLACED.
etc....

Nice work, looks great! So do you have a bunch of parts to build another out of? I might be interested in a project sinbad.

1 month later
#1986 1 year ago

that's cool on the drop target memory, I'll have to remember that.

2 weeks later
#2057 1 year ago
Quoted from Don44:

I recently got everything working 100% on my pinball pool. I decided to play a game or 2 last night and wound up playing it for an hour. Its really a fun challenging game. I think I like it better than my joker poker.

blasphemer! Pinball Pool is definitely very fun, as is Joker Poker I'm glad I have both. I recently added a gottlieb chime unit to my pinball pool and like it even better with chimes. I have one for Countdown as well just need to finish the install then all my system 1's will be chimes.

1 month later
#2188 1 year ago

Just got my first system 80, Amazing Spider-Man, in pretty nice condition. Down to one small issue, my pop bumpers are not scoring. I checked the switch and continuity to the diode board mounted to the playfield and that seems good, but it appears I have a bad diode there as I get nothing on my mm in diode mode, whereas I get a reading on the others. everything else on both the same row and column in the switch matrix works fine, so I'm pretty sure it is down to the diode. the only diodes I have are the 1N4007 diodes, which those are obviously not. Is it OK to use one of those in that location? I seem to be getting conflicting information in the little information I googled.

Thanks.

IMG_20180621_205451 (resized).jpg
#2190 1 year ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

You can try the 4007. It may or may not work. The issue is, there is about a 0.7 volt drop across it. The original diode is considerably less. Therefore, the input IC may not respond to the switch closure.

Thanks, I ran across a thread somewhere and someone mentioned stealing a diode from the coin switches on the bottom board. since I jumpered for free play and one of the slots is blocked off anyway, I went ahead and stole one from there and all is well, missed a bit of scoring and sound when pops don't score.

1 week later
#2200 1 year ago

Once you knock down all the drops and hit the 8-ball (complete the rack) it lights the upper two kick holes to score the bonus when hit and then reset it all and kick your ball back out to continue.

#2202 1 year ago

bonus after it counts the ball bonus? I don't think I've seen or heard of that.

1 week later
#2217 1 year ago
Quoted from Andreas:

Thanx, will look in to that

I had the same issue on my pinball pool and count-down with the 4-1 board, below is the response I got from Pascal when I e-mailed. I ended up buying I think 10 of the ULN2803 chips just to have on hand (I have 3 or 4 of the boards).

regarding CPU-driven lamps (L5 thru L36) which are always on, always off or dimly lit:

those lamps are driven by ULN2803 that go by pairs:

L5 thru L12 : U18/U21 above A3J5 connector

L13 thru L20 : U12/U15 above A3J5 connector

L21 thru L28 : U19/U23 above A3J3 connector

L29 thru L36 : U13/U17 above A3J3 connector --> your case

In case of LAMPS ALWAYS ON or DIMLY LIT :

turn the pinball game off, remove one of those 2 chips (no matter which one) then turn the game on: if the faulty lamps are now off, that chip is faulty and must be replaced.

otherwise (lamps still lit), remove the 2nd chip.

#2221 1 year ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Does anyone know the speaker size and ohm rating for black hole? Mine are pretty rusty and dry rotted and looking to change them out

schematic shows 8ohm 5watt speakers, not sure on size however.

1 month later
#2357 1 year ago

or just rearrange the ones that are there to match a CA instead of Count-Down

1 week later
#2398 1 year ago

2. See on the bonus at 6000 and 8000 where it says lites left target and lites right target? those are what light the extra ball lights (by the targets). The 7000 is what does the special as it says.

1. Yes, pretty sure it is supposed to reset the vari after scoring.

4 weeks later
#2455 1 year ago

So I just watched Bowen's new Papa tutorial on Sinbad (

) and it got me thinking of a modification. I'm currently putting back together a Sinbad and plan to put a LISY board in for the MPU which would allow me to recode it however I wanted. What would you think of adding in a spinner bonus like somewhat later gottliebs where if you go through the inlane when lit it would light the spinner for mega points for a few seconds? kind of like on alien star or arena or several others. of course there are no standard inlanes on this so the rollover on the right when lit (clear the yellow drops I believe to light) for 5000 when rolled over would then flash one of the advance lights by the spinner (maybe the add bonus light) for say 5 seconds which would then score say 10,000 a spin (or 1000 times current bonusX or something). I'm thinking it would actually give you a reason to hit the spinner other than it just being cool. I'm not looking to totally change the game just enhance it.

What do you guys think?

#2467 12 months ago

Nice. I've ground 18ga nails for my finish nailer down to fit and hold them with a small vice-grip, seems to work good as well.

#2471 12 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Anyone out there have a high res scanner and a Pinball Pool? I'm part way through a PF restore and with how badly I'm struggling on color matching, there is absolutely no way I have the artistic talent to redraw the artwork. I'm going to need a shot of the bonus X area and go the waterslide decal route.
I had an HP 4670 on order, but the lady on eBay never shipped it, so I'm SOL until one pops up at a decent price again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

pm sent

1 week later
#2494 11 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

I have a System 80a Jacks to Open, no way to set free play.
At one time I thought that I saw a picture tutorial on how to graft in an extra switch to the Start switch in order to increment a credit when the Start button is pressed. The new switch had to close before the original start switch for it to work right. The new switch was somehow wired to a coin switch. I could probably figure it out, but with pics it would be easier.
Thanks,
Alan

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Enabling_Free_Play

1 month later
#2572 9 months ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

I can't find a Hollywood Heat club and I just have to share this. I did a proof of concept on Fiverr to see how this would look. I have a few changes I want to do then it's off to the printer.[quoted image]

Looks like a good start.

club here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hollywood-heat-club-meet-out-front-of-the-carlyle-hotel/

1 week later
#2575 9 months ago
Quoted from ElCid95:

What is the standard slope for System One games? I have Buck Rogers and 4 degrees is a bit much for the tilt bob.

That is probably close to what gottlieb intended, they usually said to screw leg levelers all the way in (assuming you have original, or at least all the same), then just level as needed. I prefer mine faster and steeper and mine are all at 5.5 to 6 degrees, very different game at that. I think it comes down to how you prefer to play, do you want them floaty and slow side to side arcs like an em, or faster with more downhill movement. And yes I have had to move the tilt ring screws to get them to adjust to that slope, but they can be made to do so easily. Flippers still do have plenty of power to get the ball back up top.

And nice on the Buck Rogers, that is high on my want list.

4 weeks later
#2602 8 months ago

On this page http://pbresource.com/boards.html#stand

I believe they are the MP-52 which show as out of stock, but worth a call/e-mail anyway.

3 weeks later
#2645 7 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
I didn't know where in the thread to post my question on ASM gottlieb system 80. Please ignore if this ruins the flow of your conversation directly above this post.
I'm hoping someone in the group has a photo for the following issue:
I attached that barrel and nut. It was just a hole, no barrel in place. I'm trying to add it back so it works as intended. For all I know, I bought the wrong lock for this mechanism. I just can't seem to find a picture online showing a fully working backbox lock mechanism. The previous owner tied two metal brackets (with black tie, see pic below) that appear to have a role...I just can't figure it out yet. I didn't attach the locking latch and screw that goes on the inside of the barrel (similar to latch used to hold coin door closed/locked).
Thanks![quoted image]

basically just cut that zip and screw the bar to the lock mech, it has a square hole in the end, make sure it's the right direction first. Here is a couple pics of mine first one in open position, second one in locked. note in the locked position you can't have the light board all the way open it will hit the bar.

IMG_20190221_174134 (resized).jpgIMG_20190221_174219 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2696 7 months ago
Quoted from Qman97:

I’m in with the Increadable Hulk. $300 needed a power supply and a good cleaning

Nice score on Hulk. I just got mine together yesterday after a few months in the shop.

IMG_20190302_163842 (resized).jpg
#2700 7 months ago
Quoted from solarvalue:

Hi all,
I'm working on a Haunted House and I am getting a low resistance reading on the main playfield flipper coils: about 1.6 ohms. Is this normal?

The manual has a coil chart and lists the A-17875 main at 2.8 ohms. It is possible someone put higher power/lower ohm coils in.

#2701 7 months ago

I'm in the process of building a system 80A from the ground up. and have most of the important bits, but am looking for backbox and lightboard hinges. See the ad please.

Archived after 42 days
81 views
Unknown reason:
Parts - Wanted
Wanted! “I know they used these in system 80A machines, but may have been in others as well. Looking for the backbox hinges and the mounting brackets that mount the head to the cabinet. p...”
2019-03-04
East Renton Highlands, WA
Wanted

#2733 7 months ago
Quoted from toddharper:

Hey Guys,
I have only one more issue to resolve for my Gottlieb Pinball Pool restoration project.
The pin that should short out the 3-ball play does not work.
I've tried cleaning the contacts but no luck.
Always plays on 5-ball setting no matter what.
Any direction on this would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Todd

Are you talking about the jones plug type pin under the playfield? That sets whether all drops are paired or just the even. typically on 5 ball only the even numbers would drop the opposite side when hit and on 3 ball all the drop targets drop the corresponding drop on the opposite side. you can however play 3 ball with 5 ball rules by leaving that plug on 5 ball.

dip switch 9 sets whether you play 3 ball or 5 ball

#2755 7 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Switched dip switch 22 to on/off, without change...unless I am misunderstanding the rules for this "Same Player Shoot Again" feature. I figured it should come on for 1-player games. Is this the wrong assumption? Maybe it only comes on when a player, during multiplayer game, gets a bonus ball to shoot again? In that case, maybe I'll leave the dip switch 22 on.
Thanks again!

My shoot again definitely comes on during 1 player games when I earn an extra ball. Can't tell you what mine is set on though as its a few hours drive away.

#2770 7 months ago

Got lucky when I bought my count-down a couple years back, bg is sweet, rest of it's pretty nice too.

2017-01-02 09.02.31 (resized).jpg
#2795 7 months ago
Quoted from jjoravec:

Anyone know anywhere to get these pcb post? And how to get the old ones out? They appear glued in.[quoted image]

pbresource sells those posts, toward the bottom of this page http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html there are several lengths they don't have all in stock. they are screwed in from the back, at least the ones I have seen.

2 weeks later
#2888 6 months ago

Good morning guys and gals. I am about to embark on project Alien Star Resurrection! I picked up the mostly populated Alien Star playfield that TNT had posted as part of their cleanup/cleanout. It is in very nice shape, bottom area mostly mylared, some wear around the upper lanes and the pop bumpers. I will be stripping it down and doing some minor art touchup, mostly black, and clearcoating it.

Here is what I'm starting with, it does have the full wiring on the back.

IMG_20190126_171001 (resized).jpg

I have gathered together most of the other needed items, transformer panel, cabinet and coin door wiring harness, displays and backbox wiring harness, coin-door, buttons, switches etc. I will be building the cabinet and backbox from scratch, taking a few liberties to make it easier to build or for lack of original parts, but will look and function basically the same. I will be putting in a Pascal PI-80 board to run it all.

What I'm looking for today is some help in getting cabinet art stencils. I've been in contact with PinballPimp, who does not have the files for Alien Star, but he provided me with what he would need to make them, basically a 150dpi scan of the cabinet. I am willing to front the cost for him to do the artwork so he would then have it on file for anyone else that ever wanted to repaint an Alien Star, but since I do not have a cabinet to scan I am turning to all of you looking for someone who has an Alien Star and the ability to do a scan, or if close enough to me (near Seattle) would let me come over with a scanner and scan their cabinet. I can provide more details on the scanning, but basically just a small usb flatbed will work.

Thanks,

2 weeks later
#2929 5 months ago

I believe the volume on that is the black knob on the Pascal sound board, although I can't find it stating that in the manual.

#2936 5 months ago

from what I can see on IPDB it appears to be the same setup as the system 1 latch. pictures of the system 1 stuff in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/joker-poker-ss-backbox-door-hardware

2 months later
#3037 3 months ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
Does anyone know a good place to purchase a 2.75" long sleeve to replace an old Amazing Spider-Man knocker sleeve? The replacement coil I purchased came with one that does not extend beyond length of coil (I should have known). I'm also wondering if it's possible to use the shorter (coil length) sleeve instead of a longer replacement. I appreciate any feedback you guys have on this issue.
Thanks![quoted image][quoted image]

http://pbresource.com/coilsleeve.html

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7067-1

2 weeks later
#3073 78 days ago

pbresource.com is the go to place for Gottlieb parts. I find e-mail works great.

1 week later
#3088 70 days ago
Quoted from WhiskeyPinball:

Has anyone switched out the solenoids (A-5194) that are used for the (2) out holes on Incredible Hulk?
Am thinking about putting in stronger solenoids
Thanks

Have not tried that, but interested in how it behaves when you do. What are you thinking of putting in there? an A-1496 like in the pops?

#3090 70 days ago

My right side hits the drops now with the 5194 in there, does not your's? sometimes knocks 1 down, sometimes 2, sometimes shoots slightly left of them all and goes to the top lanes.

#3092 70 days ago

ah, well that would make sense, 5195 is not nearly as strong as a 5194 (12.3 Ohms vs 4.5 Ohms).

1 month later
#3143 37 days ago

those usually show up on either side of ramp entrances, zoom in and look closely at this image I think you can just make them out https://www.ipdb.org/images/678/image-10.jpg

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