I'm here if I can help in some way ... other than by selling off my System 80 collection.
Steve
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Yes, they are interchangeable.
Steve
Quoted from Cheeks:Does Devil's Dare use the same size playfield glass as Haunted House and Black Hole? My DD has no playfield glass. Marco sells Sys80 glass and lists a bunch of compatible games, but DD is not on the list. The measurements they gave look like they should work, but I'd prefer no surprises.
LOL. We've a poet amongst us writing in rhyme. Keep playing your Gottlieb in your spare time.
Steve
Quoted from MXV:I just got my first Gottlieb and the best was that it was free! My dad owned this for years and recently gave it to me.
Gerry, for Star Race, try putting a 10,000 mfd 40VDC cap on the bridge that feeds the flippers and report back on how much different it is. Solder the cap in just like the old orange cap (that gets replaced) is installed. Pascal Jannin showed me this trick several years ago.
Steve
Counterforce was one of the first games in my collection that I had never played before. It's a fun game that keeps you coming back and pushing the credit button. You're lucky to have one, they're getting harder to find now.
Steve
Quoted from RDM:I'm so excited to get mine up and working. Can't wait! I love the art on the playfield and backbox.
When I first bought mine about 20 years ago, I had my finger on the "sell it when fixed" trigger. As I played it, the trigger went away and never came back.
Steve
Quoted from RDM:I believe it. I'd actually never heard of the game before I saw one for sale sold "as is" this past summer. Figured what the hell, for $300 I could sink some money into it and likely come up with a decent machine. The more I read about it and the more gameplay videos I've watched, the more I'm glad I pulled the trigger.
Isn't there something like that on the flyer? If not, there should have been.
Steve
Quoted from Gerry:Its the game that fights you back !
They should be 27" all the way around so you're good to go.
Steve
Quoted from canea:Okay, I've got a System 1 question for you guys. I'm not sure I have the right legs on my Joker Poker. What is the correct length of legs for this game? Are all four the same length? Seems like a silly question, but I'm having trouble getting the correct inclination on mine with the legs I've got, which are all 27 inch.
I don't have the double style, just the single hook on top style.
Steve
Quoted from biggestboss:does anyone here have any info on this part?
I guess it would be called a rail guide mount. Are these standardized on sys80s?
Pics below from my victory. I'm missing a couple of these but am not smart enough to figure the details out on my own.
LOL, I wouldn't want to be a president of a club that had me as a member. That honor should go to Gerry, it's his thread/fault.
Steve
What game are you adding to your collection if I may ask?
Steve
Quoted from OTTOgd:If all goes well, I'll be adding another System 80A Trudeau to the collection shortly.
Great thread, Gerry. Still really enjoying the JD you sold me, thanks!
(@newtoit) First, get that battery off the CPU board. Second, I don't know Hot Shots but it sure sounds like the game is waiting to see more than 1 ball in the through when you start it. Try starting a game and let it reset, then add 1 ball. If it still waits, add one more. If it still waits, you'll have to go to test 18 in the audits and test out your switches to see what's going on. Third, do the ground mods, your game will thank you later.
Steve
LOL, as of this morning, several readers already have. Looks like I may have to get more made.
Steve
Quoted from biggestboss:I may try to hit you up for a couple of these one-sided ones if PBR can't help.
If all you did is clean that connector and it came back, good for you. However .... (and I hate to say this) the problem probably will return unless you get into that A1J6 connector and install new Molex crimps in it. I'd also re-crimp A1J5 while you're there.
Steve
Quoted from newtoit:I cleaned the connections to the mpu and it worked.
I'm not aware of a part # for them, they're not in any of the parts manuals. I had them made for my games.
Steve
Quoted from TurboBengal:is there a link to this part or a part #? Is this from PBR?
You got a Rocky. Did you buy Joe's? (pg, 2 of this thread)
Steve
Quoted from OTTOgd:Wait, lemme ask my wife ... Yo, Adrienne, what's the new pin project gonna be???
I was wondering where you went Gerry. I have an unshopped but "needs a lot of work" James Bond I will sell. As usual, shipping is the killer.
Steve
I'll have to dig it out from the garage, I haven't looked at it in 2 years. If I can get to it this weekend, I'll give you a call.
Steve
Quoted from Gerry:How rough is it ? and what does it need ?
Timed pinballs have been around for a lot longer than James Bond, they go back to EM's (1970's maybe earlier).
Steve
Quoted from Whysnow:I love the idea of timed ball >> is that where safecracker got it from
Travel Time comes to mind off the top. Another System 80 that has timed play is Time Line (on the upper left mini playfield), Goin' Nuts is also timed. Joust (head to head) has timed multi-ball. Can't think of others right now.
Steve
Quoted from Whysnow:very cool! Any idea what was the first? I wish more games would have timed ball modes.
I know this information won't help you now when you need it, but over 10 years ago, there were a lot of Haunted House glasses floating around for sale and people were buying them up left and right to use as wall art. I bought one and sold my scratched one at that time.
I've seen a lot of requests lately for that glass. IIRC, a run of them was made without permission a few years ago and some got away/sold. No idea who got one. The problem with the last run (and why I didn't buy one as a spare) was that it was visually quite a bit different (side by side) from the original with the colors and shading (but anything is better than nothing when you have the latter I guess). The 4 color process makes this glass difficult to do for a good match. Seems like a good candidate for a remake to me though, perhaps a petition for a run has been started at Shay. I'd start there.
Steve
Quoted from arpman:I have a Haunted House, but I need backglass. Does anyone know a source?
LOL. Another unhappy Volcano get no love/attention (player 2 display).
Steve
Quoted from ChrisHibler:I really should install the pristine Volcano inner BG that I have.
There are 4 of them that wide, you forgot Roller Disco.
Steve
Quoted from Gerry:If you think CF is wide, you should see Star Race, Genie, and Circus... those are extra wide !
I like my Bounty Hunter and it's 80B. Bone Busters is also a fun game.
Steve
Quoted from Dotmuncher:Any other recommendations for good 80b games?
I don't get involved it the hunt, that would take away too much of the fun. However, sometimes I do offer advice on pictures when asked.
Steve
Quoted from Gerry:If, Steve cant help ya find one, nobody can!
Normal System 80 size. If you look at Gerry's pics of the hold down bars, it'll be the one in the middle.
Steve
Quoted from Pintoxicated:Is The Amazing Spiderman an extra wide machine?
Here's a link to a System 80 site from friend of mine, Peter Hall.
http://www.geocities.ws/system80pins/
It has a lot of interesting info to look at, hopefully, some of you will enjoy it.
Steve
Yeah, it's archived. I don't know if Peter moved or abandoned it.
Steve
Quoted from Gov:woa.....Geocities.
Test the Q1 regulator (LM338) on the A2 power supply, it, or a solder connection at the pins possibly failed.
Steve
Hi Scott, replace Z26 (7404) on your CPU board, that should get your P1, P3 & status digit working.
Steve
Quoted from Xtraball:One last thing to figure out, maybe you or Steve or somebody else can gelp me figure out. In this picture notice the right-most digit in player 1and 3 score displays are out as well as the left digit in the credits display. There should actually be 10 credits showing right now, not 0.
Scott
I see a locked up CPU board with display issues when I look at the pics. Your description tells me that when you remove the A1J5 & A1J6 connectors it comes up in attract, it that correct? If so, you might have something wrong on the coin door, possibly in that clump of wires bundled together. You need to take things one step at a time, first, narrow down the cause of the lock up and get the game to boot to attract mode with both connectors installed. I'd look at separating all of those wires, make sure none of them touch the coin door and see if that helps. Then you can go after the display issues. If you want to send out your CPU board for diagnosis and repair, I know Chris Hibler (on Pinside) does a great job. If you want to try to fix it yourself through this thread, that works too. There are a lot of us out there that might know the answer and we can "tag team" your problem.
Steve
Quoted from ktrain315:Looking for some more advice on my Alien Star. Please see thread below:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/alien-star-need-help-im-clueless
Should I send out my CPU for evaluation/repair?
Okay, also check/clean the A1J3-16 connector pad. You may even have to replace the Molex crimp.
Steve
Quoted from Xtraball:Hi Steve, thanks for the reply. I socketed and replaced that chip today, no change. Maybe it's a bad one, I'll have to put in another one. Thanks again.
Scott
Which thread? Things get so spread out sometimes, I lose site of some threads quickly.
Steve
Quoted from coz6:Anybody in the club good at CPU lockups? if so please visit my thread. Thanks Club Gottlieb.
I see you already have one of the best System 80 techs (Chris H) helping you in that thread. He's real good at isolating problems and giving solutions. I'll follow your thread and see if there's anything I might be able to add.
Steve
Quoted from coz6:Fixed my post but THANK you http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-80b-cpu-locked-up-help-requested
Getting good details of the problem sure helps. Lookin' good! Glad to help get another one going in some small way.
Steve
Quoted from Xtraball:Thanks Steve, I found the A1J3-16 wire broke. Just crimped it and now look!
Then stick with it, we'll follow you through the learning curve.
Steve
Quoted from coz6:Thanks when my local guy refused to work on it - it became a mission to fix this game. I really am starting to love the challenge just need the help, because its above my current skill set… but your current skill set only gets better if you get one of these projects and solve it.
Wow, this has been a test of the ol' brain. Quite a rash of System 80 problems lately. Please post the correct fix to your problems once they are found (like Scott just did) so all System 80 collectors here can learn.
Steve
Sorry, I missed this. From the Devil's Dare manual (below), dip switch settings. Lower # switches are coin door so I didn't take a pic of them.
Steve
Quoted from Xtraball:Which reminds me, can someone tell me what the settings are to change the balls per game from 5 to 3 and any other game changeable settings (or maybe tell me if there's an online chart I can check).
Scott
I made a metal protector for mine, I just haven't got around to having Cliffy reproduce it yet. I'll try to get a pic up for you tomorrow.
Steve
Quoted from Cheeks:I have an NOS plastic set for my Devils Dare. I've heard that the center plastic breaks all the time. Any way I can protect these so they don't break on me?
If this is for the Devil's Dare you have listed in your collection (you didn't say which game),
Check the switch on the T relay, wire trace colors are black/blue/blue and purple/slate/slate.
Check connector A12-J8/P8-2
Check fuse F6 10 amp.
Steve
Quoted from Cheeks:Separate issue, all my playfield GI are out. Backbox lights are lit as are the inserts. Any ideas where to look?
Scott, I usually don't diagnose any CPU problems until I'm sure the power supply is solid since it can effect/cause some issues.
For #1 of your post, I have some questions, have you corrected R10 and CR7 on your A2 power supply board? Have you re-flowed all solder around the connector pins on the A2 power supply board? Are the pads clean and re-tinned at A1J1? Have the Molex crimps been replaced?
For #2, are your batteries all good? If so, you need to go through your up/down memory protect logic, this would include Z1, Z4, Z8, Z36, Q1, CR34, Cr35 & VR1. The 5101 RAM is also suspect, especially if it has a cheap socket on it. Usually if the RAM has an issue, it shows up in the player 1 window during test 20, but not always.
For #3, unfortunately, my game isn't set up at the moment and I don't remember the rules of the game.
Steve
Psst! Hey you ..... come over to my house and play this System 80 game ..... I got your hook up.
Steve
Quoted from mof:Someone's been infected with the Gottlieb virus. Haha! It's all blownfuse's fault...
He nearly infected me with coveting Spirit, but I think I got out of there just in time. I consider myself lucky that Devil's Dare wasn't ready to play, that might have got me infected.
-mof
I use a 3/8" drive 7/8" (3" deep socket) on all locks, less headache to use the right tool for the job.
Steve
I am of the opinion that there must be something else at play when it comes to the thunk or they all (or all of one title) would have this issue from the start. If so, it might be something as simple as a switch being too close or a drive transistor for the tilt or game over relay starting to fail. There has to be a common reason why some do and some don't thunk, it may be component degrading over a period of time causing it, or even heat/resistance somewhere at a connector.
Steve
Quoted from ChrisHibler:I'm sure the first ones that Rockwell/Gottlieb designed didn't thunk either, or they would have fixed it.
Some of mine don't thunk either. It's luck of the draw with each driver board. Some driver boards thunk, others don't.
Did you go down and look at Matt's game yet?
Steve
Quoted from Pinballrus:Somebody in this club got a line on an Alien Star for me? Blownfuse got me hooked on his!
Nice, welcome to the gang.
Steve
Quoted from Fishbeadtwo:Having 6 from the list with more desired must mean I should be here.......something about the system 80's is almost irresistible ...... My line up. Incredible Hulk, Close Encounters, Cleopatra, Asteroid Annie, Black Hole and Volcano. Hoping for a decent priced Charlie's Angel to come strolling by sometime as well as Devils Dare.
I don't believe so since it uses the same basic CPU board that all System 80's use. I think you'd have to add it and I don't know if there's a modified U2/3 free play floating around for 80B like there is for 80 and 80A.
Steve
Quoted from ryan1234:Working on a Big House-
System 80B... Is there a "freeplay" setting?
Thanks in advance.
Big Hurt apparently.
Steve
Quoted from Gerry:BH for bounty hunter or BH for Black hole, what we talkin about Willis?
When I park my cursor on any "BH", it says Big Hurt so I'll stand with that (Robin can't be wrong).
Steve
Quoted from CNKay:No No Steve, it is Big House of course!
I have one. It's a lot harder to beat than a Black Hole.
Steve
Quoted from mof:Damn, that's cool. 193 units made, I won't hold my breath for one -- what would be the 2nd best choice?
-mof
I have a few alkaline free System 1 CPU boards too. I don't know if any of them work so figure they don't. PM if interested.
Steve
What is the ohm reading of the trim pot? Try putting the old one back on and see if it improves.
Steve
Quoted from OCD_pinball:With the trim pot all the way up I can only muster 4.86 volts loaded. The unloaded reading at this setting was 6.16 volts
I haven't talked with Peter Hall in some time either.
Steve
Quoted from Whiskers:I haven't seen anyone mention the storks nest website- my first sys 80 talks were with him and his collection, nice guy.
I won't be of much help either, my parts manual just lists the posts but doesn't show where they go.
Steve
You'd be surprised how many of those I've seen need cleaning from people that thought they need lubrication and later, the lube dried out. Glad you figured it out.
Steve
Try contacting Chris Hibler on Pinside, he does good System 80 board work.
Steve
Quoted from Whysnow:Where is the best place to send boards for repair? Any places to find good condition ones ready to go for a reasonable price?
Nothing wrong with that, I need to finish putting down the game room floor (that I've been putting off doing for about 10 years).
Steve
Quoted from Jabbles180:I may just have to head over to blown fuses so I can pose as a gtb guy.
I just use a 3.6V NiCad battery but install it on the end of 4' of speaker wire. Then drop the battery down to the bottom of the game.
Steve
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:What type/config of battery do you guys recommend to use for system 80 ?
There's a place near me called Batteries Plus, they'll configure them any way you ask them to. The ones I use are 1.2V phone batteries (X3=3.6V). I have them put 6" staggered leads on them so I can install the speaker wire and shrink wrap the solder connection after. It ends up looking real nice this way. They even put the build date on the battery.
Steve
Quoted from Whysnow:great idea! Where do you rec to get NiCads from?
Pic and link in post above.
Steve
Quoted from 2Kaulitz:show a pic and link so i can order the right stuff
I'm not sure why the A-5194 is in the pop bumper, according to the coil chart, that coil is used for gongs. It will work in a pop bumper or kicker but it'll be a lot weaker. I'd switch the A-5194's out and install the A-1496's, the game will play better.
Steve
Quoted from Pinball-is-great:Clarification request please:
One my Gottlieb Sys 1 machines, some use coil A-5194 for pop bumpers and kicking rubbers, and others use coil A-1496. I also see it specified in the manuals like this.
Are these basically the same and can they be used interchangeably?
A.) Never. Bad idea, won't work or will fry something.
B.) Temporarily only
C.) Yes, ok to do so
I've had to solder the backside of the EOS contact points to make switches work, especially if they have been sitting for a long period of time without use. On this type of issue, cleaning the contact wasn't enough to make it function. (Unrelated) On controlled playfield switches, be sure to check those 1N270 switch diodes as well.
Steve
Quoted from Topher5000:Yeah, I took a look at it last night. It closes when the flipper's pressed so I ran a business card through it but it didn't help. I'll reflow the solder & take a more in depth look at it on the weekend.
If it's the tilt relay clicking on and off, try reseating your game ROM on the CPU board. This may or may not help since I'm not sure from your description what's going on yet. Usually the flashing on and off of the GI at start up is a sign of a bad game ROM or ROM connection. Sometimes a bad connection at the daughter board will mimic this symptom too. A little pressure on one side of the board might fix this but not all the time and it'll be temporary. If it doesn't help, a little more detail might give a direction as the where to look.
Steve
Yep, Jean-Rene's System 80/80A/80B collection is truly amazing.
Steve
Quoted from Schusler:This is what I would LOVE to have my pinball collection to mimic!
Well, I don't have a warehouse like Jean-Rene does so I had to stick with the System 80/80A wide body games since they are more my favorites and there are less of them to collect (23). I need a Krull to complete it. I hear that they were going to try and beat my show record of 8 Spirit's, I'm glad to see that my record will hold for at least another year.
Steve
Quoted from Schusler:Steve, I'm sure yours is nothing short of amazing!
Contact Chris Hibler, he posts a lot of tech here and also does board work. Ed's U2/3 modules are awesome.
Steve
Quoted from Bax1:Just picked up a Monte Carlo so I'm in. I just jacked up the board though. Thought I could do the repair on the daughter board but lifted some pads and traces. Anyone able to repair these? Or have a board for sale.?
Has anyone used Great Plains replacement daughter board?
Yes, it is probably a data sentry battery located on the A1 CPU board.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from smersh:Is there a battery on a devils Dare for high scores?
Yes.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from smersh:Can I use a 4 place AA battery holder with a diode, and use 3 AA batterys for the battery on Devils Dare?
As long as the manufacturer, game file, board system (with jumpers matching) & playfield all match, you can do it. Basically, that's what a test rig does.
Steve
That would be Return 0 & Return 2, both those lines are in Z13. It's possible that the new one has bad gates in it. What happens if you swap Z13 with Z14, does the problem follow the IC to Return 4 & Return 6 or stay on the same lines? If you turn off all the dip switches, run the test and the problem is now clear, the problem is in Z15.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from ExitWound:Hey all! Just acquired a Bone Busters and am having some switch matrix issues. Received my logic probe today and am seeing some odd results. Can you explain to me how this can happen? There's no way two highs can OR to a low, correct? What's going on here? Does Z15 go bad on System 80's?
Why I'm probing this area: Switch matrix shows closed on 00-02, 10-12, 20-22, 30-32, 40-42, 50-52, 60-62, 70-72. New 7400's on Z13/Z14. New RIOT chip. New 7404 in Z11.
Hi Ronnie. All voice calls on DD are on the sound 16 line. You'll have to follow that line from start (U6 on the CPU board), through all the connectors and to the finish (on the sound board). I don't envy you on this one, you'll need a schematic.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from Ronnie1114:So my speech has never worked on my DD since I got it. It has a new power supply. I know that the ones that were sent overseas didn't have speech on them, I don't think mine is one of those but I don't really know what I'm looking for. Thanks for any advice!
That would make sense since the CPU is seeing all the return 0 & 2 lines as closed on the bad IC. The issue following (and changing) the IC would indicate that one of your new 7400 IC's is bad. If you still can't get into tests and you haven't swapped it back, the bad IC is now in Z14.
Z15 is for switch enable and part of the dip switch programming. A short in Z15 can also lock up strobe and return lines. Turning off the dip switches isolates Z15 from the system and sometimes will free up the test switch. If so, Z15 is probably bad and needs replacement.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from ExitWound:I swapped Z13 and Z14 the other day and the issue seems to move. After doing so, the game reports TILT SWITCH CLOSED and I can't progress into the tests.
Setting all DIP switches to off seems to eliminate the issue. Most of the switches work (not all, but I haven't cleaned/tested all of them yet to see what that means.) Why would setting the DIPs to off change the behavior?
Umm, this is the System 1 & System 80 club thread isn't it? Geez! This is the first time I've ever heard of guys arguing over who's is smaller than who's, my how times have changed.
Steve
Good, I had wondered if you got it working. Yep, probably a bad or dirty dip switch.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from ExitWound:Replaced the Z15 7432 and socketed it and the game works! I now get one credit per coin switch trigger instead of 2 or 4, the game starts fine, tracks the balls properly too. No crazy firing of the solenoids. Still get 5 balls per game though. Perhaps a bad DIP switch.
I always replace with new drop targets on every System 80 game I restore (with exception of any red drop targets now, the new replacement ones are purplish in color). Also, I protect the drop target art by installing mylar over the face of them, it'll keep the ball from wearing off the art across the middle of the targets.
Steve
I'm kind of picky when it comes to my games so it might not matter to many other collectors. I took some pics of NOS vs. NEW and you can decide for yourself. What I've found is that the "new" red is more of a blood red compared to the NOS red DT. Side by side, it looks purplish and the new color doesn't match originals. IMHO, MGoW looks hideous with the new red DT's for example since all the reds on the playfield match the original DT's color. This may not matter on some games that don't have a lot of red on the playfield but I'd rather keep the original look. If you do order a replacement red DT for any GTB game, you should think about replacing them all or you won't be happy (except for MGoW, look for NOS if you can).
Also, the NOS target is 1/16" longer at the target face, since the new DT is shorter, this could create ball hang up issues along with eventual playfield paint wear from the ball beating on the plywood edge at the DT's. The little foot on the bottom of the new DT is also shorter by 1/32" so the reset solenoids will have to be readjusted or the foot will break off. The only plus I've seen to the new DT is that they seem a little more flexible than the originals, this may save on breakage and replacement. I don't know if they'll shrink because of the flexibility, it's too early to tell.
Unfortunately, I think this is the "new" red that will be replacing all the other red plastic parts as PBR runs out of NOS red stock plastic parts and has to order more. I believe this is what happened to the original white plastic parts (light ivory vs. stark white) years ago. I noticed that the new purple DT's I ordered for my James Bond are odd in color now too compared to NOS (new dark purple vs. NOS pinkish purple). I guess that eventually, all the plastic parts will be revamped to a new color. QC isn't what it used to be.
Steve
Quoted from ForceFlow:Really? Drat.
I bought some red ones last year, and they were fine.
I guess it's just like those bluish gray posts that are supposed to be white.
Color_comparisons.jpg
NOS__new_length_differences.jpg
WP_005329.jpg
Glad to help, you won't regret taking the time to do it. I also mylar my stationary targets when I buy new one's. I use a punch to cut out the center for the rivet and use curved toenail clippers to trim away the excess mylar from the edges. I keep a pair in my toolbox, it beats the heck out of using a single edge razor blade.
Steve
Quoted from davebart5:Great idea, Steve. Thanks again for the advice. I'm definitely going to do this.
First off, nobody except me and a few others complained. The bottom line is that there are less people interested in keeping parts original in this small hobby than care that there is just something new to replace a broken or worn part with. After all, it isn't a collector car, right?
If you buy 10,000 DT's that are the wrong color, the last thing you want to do is eat the cost of the DT's and order 10,000 more. So every part gets the new color as the NOS stock runs out so everything then matches again. That's what appears to have happened with the white plastics and will probably happen with other colors too.
Steve
Quoted from ForceFlow:Considering that Steve was careful about getting the Stern star faced stand up targets to match the origionals for Seawitch a few months back, I wonder why he has let things like these DT's and the posts slip through.
If you have a better explanation about the difference in the plastic colors shown above, I'm all ears. My complaints fell on deaf one's so I'm left to believe that QC isn't a contributing factor. When I reported the issue, I was told to sell them to someone else. Later, I foolishly placed another order for different red DT's for a different game thinking the dark red was a fluke and got the same colors. That dark red *is* the new red.
Steve
Quoted from ForceFlow:I would imagine a sample would be provided for approval before committing to a large run, though
For anyone that wants to convert their MGoW outer backglass to a mounting similar to BH, I just found this item, it may be worth looking into. Home Depot carries this trim and it's used to trim out FRP plastic sheeting, it's 3/4" tall X 8' long, cheap and a backglass fits into it real nice without vibration. Just cut it to size and staple it in just like the BH plastic is done.
Steve
WP_005343_(resized).jpg
WP_005342_(resized).jpg
WP_005341_(resized).jpg
Watch out, your collection is looking more like mine every week. Nice score, tune it up right and it'll never leave. Does it need anything? I have extra plastic parts for AS.
Steve
Quoted from Jabbles180:Just brought this home today. Sys80 # 6 for me.
I help where I can. I'm glad that those System 80 games I've always enjoyed are now catching on with others.
Steve
Quoted from Jabbles180:You ruined me man!
I'm fixing a System 80A game for a friend of mine and I just discovered that it's missing this bracket assembly under the instruction card holder. I have the solenoid, I just need all the moving parts. Any System 80 game that is multi-ball will have it. If anyone has parted out a playfield and has these parts, please PM me. Thanks,
Steve
Mario (Pinthetic) helped me with the part and I now have it installed. On to fixing other problems now. Thanks to those that sent me a PM about the part.
Steve
Quoted from blownfuse:I'm fixing a System 80A game for a friend of mine and I just discovered that it's missing this bracket assembly under the instruction card holder. I have the solenoid, I just need all the moving parts. Any System 80 game that is multi-ball will have it. If anyone has parted out a playfield and has these parts, please PM me.
This is just a FYI post for those that think their GTB auxiliary driver boards are strobing the lights too fast in your game. I experimented with a few different capacitors in the place of C1 on the board. The three that work the best from slow to slowest are .22mfd, .33mfd & .47mfd (all three were 50 volt ceramic caps). Here is a one minute video of a auxiliary driver board slowed down to strobe LED's in pinball legs (to show how slow it can go without a long wait).
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
I have 5 System 1 CPU boards over here that have little to no alkaline damage on them that I'll sell cheap, I don't know if they work but they are good boards to start from. PM if interested. Personally, I'd get the Pascal board.
Steve
Quoted from BorgDog:Hey system 1 guru's. I just added my second system 1, a Pinball Pool project to go with my Joker Poker. Full image is from the prior owner. Going in I knew it had issues and I figure worst case I would spend the money on a Pascal all-in-one board. At this point I'm looking for advice whether to just buy the Pascal or try and repair what I got.
As you can see there is a nice battery and some lovely corrosion on the front side of the MPU, while on the back you can see they cut off the connectors and soldered the wires to the board. Oh and more of the lovely corrosion While I was pulling the connectors in the back to clean things up, the pins and such pulled off the right side of the power board (original), not to mention a couple swollen caps. so I'm thinking to save myself some headaches and just buy the Pascal or should I spend the money on a new power board and hope I can get the MPU board working. If it didn't have all the wires soldered to it I could put in my Joker Poker and see if it works right...
Thoughts?
The black line globe stickers were on the later EM's with the large smooth coin door. When the games were made in EM and System 1, they got the correlating sticker on the door. I don't believe there were any transition games with either, Gottlieb was a stickler for details so I doubt it.
The red, white and blue Columbia stickers started on System 1 games. (My System 80 Hulk has System 80 sticker on it for example)
The red, white and blue flag style stickers started on early System 80 games and stopped when Gottlieb changed to a single game ROM.
The silver, black with gold star stickers continued on through to System 3. It's interesting to note that Gottlieb didn't change the stickers again when they went to 7 digit. Maybe they just dropped the idea of changing the sticker each time they changed something in the line. This is speculation on my part but it does kinda make sense.
Keep in mind that some coin doors have been replaced with better ones through the years by collectors or route operators and the stickers were never replaced with correct ones.
Steve
Quoted from Insane:Joker Poker Question. What decal should be on the coin door. Marco's website shows the red/white/blue with the columbia pictures byline and sunburst. But the ones i've see online have the black and white globe with the red script D. Gottlieb & Co.
Only if it's the EM version. The System 1's should have the red, white and blue Colombia sticker.
Steve
Quoted from Insane:So since Joker Poker was both EM and System 1, it should have the Black line Globe.
Try rebuilding your A2 power supply and re-flowing the header pins. Also replace all the connector crimps with trifurcon type for less resistance.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from Paulb:I have a black hole with no sound and the displays quit working,
displays were when I originally plugged it in
game plays
Krull, Haunted House, Spirit & Caveman all use 31" for the back legs and 27" for the front legs. Mars, God of War works best with 31"legs in the back and 28 1/2" for the front legs to keep it looking and behaving correctly.
Basically, if the plunger assembly area on the cabinet has been shaved to a different angle for a playfield clearance drop, the leg sizes above apply.
All the other System 1 and 80 games, as well as late GTB EM's that have the large coin door use 27" legs on all four corners.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from futurepinhead:EDIT: I just talked to Steve over at Marco's. He thinks that the only game that Gottlieb used different legs he believes was Caveman. So I just need to get 4 x 4337.
Thanks for the help.
Those punch pin Molex connectors fail quite often with age. Contact Ed at Great Plains Electronics, he'll have the crimps you need.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
If the CPU board runs only with all dip switches turned off, it could be a bad gate in Z15 causing the board to get confused.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from Friengineer:What causes the MPU dipswitches to fail?????? I have a gold wings with the problem below & after resetting all of the dipswitches the problem seemed to go away. However when I move them back to the on position the issue comes back
If the CPU board works with some of the dip switches on, when you activate what is left and then the CPU board fails, you found the line to the bad gate in Z15. Replacement is a cheap repair.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Quoted from Friengineer:What happens if it runs with a few dips turned on? Should I still change out Z15?
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