Guessing: maybe something to do with the Slam switch? Somehow it was wired into that relay? Loose/broken Slam switch wire?

Just throwing darts in the dark.

GTB Raven. Game boots partially: playfield feature lights come on and go into attract mode. Displays do not come on, game will not accept credits and will not start a game. Must an 80b have a battery in or connected to the CPU to fully boot? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Al

Should be 10,000uf, 25 volts.

You can't find the manual online because it has a strongly guarded copyright by Gottlieb. Order one from Steve Young at PBR or on ebay.

BTW, is your translate very hard to remove or install? Mine and a couple of others I've seen have the groove in the bottom of the display holder cut too shallow, making it tough to remove.

I have one, were you looking for anything in particular? Mine does have a Rottendog driver board.

Yeah, I've wondered about that myself.

Looking for a decent used or NOS playfield for an '84 Jacks to Open.
Ad in Marketplace also.

System 80a, Jacks to Open.

There is a wire, purple/purple/purple (777), that runs from the 4 digit Status display, 1A5J1-2, to the MPU A1J3-16. But instead of stopping at that connector it goes through the IDC connector for about 5 inches and is broken off. I can't for the life of me figure out where it is supposed to go by either searching for the other end or by looking at the schematic.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Al

Thanks for the reply, REGNE. I'll check when I get home.

Go Huskers!

Alan

Just got home. That wire does go to the reset board: A24J1-3.

Here's where I am: the game will boot and start a game but none of the switches and solenoids work. The displays at power up either show one zero in the far right position at Player 1, Player 3 and the Status display, or, on every other power up they show all zeroes with strobing. In either case they come on right away, no four second delay.

Is it true that System 80a games will not activate switches and solenoids if the displays are not functioning properly?

I may be looking at connector issues. Which connector should I look at first?

All fuses removed and checked.

All voltages at A2 are correct with J2 and J3 (displays) connectors not attached. As I add the displays one at a time, the 60 and 42 volt test points drop a few volts with every added display. I have 66.9 vdc at TP1 (should be 62 vdc) and 49.2 at TP2 (should be 42 vdc) without J2 & J3 hooked up. With both connectors attached and all display connectors attached, I have 52.9 VDC at YP1 and 35.0 vdc at TP2. Each display added drags down the voltage. Is this correct or caused by corrosion on the pins, or something else?

I have performed the Slam Switch mod: put a solder bridge between the two traces just to the right of Z26, and cut the wire into the A1J5-10 connector.

No alkaline damage to the MPU, cleaned all the fingers with the pink eraser.

At power up, with just a single zero in the Player 1 & 3 and Status displays, the Test button does nothing. But when it powers up with all zeroes and strobing, the Test button will take me through the tests.

Well then, go Wildcats. As a Ravens fan, I like any team with purple.

Definitely a possibility. Z7 & Z8 are cheap, but U1 is $21.75 at PBR, but it is a socketed chip.

I'm concerned that corrosion on the connector pins may be my problem. I hate like hell to re-pin every connector but I want this thing to work right.

Just use the shotgun method on those three chips or try re-pinning the connectors that affect the displays?

Jameco has them for about $6.00. Refurbished, that's OK, isn't it?

How it turned out:

Thanks to ForceFlow's suggestion. I replaced U7 and the CPU chip, didn't have another 7402 for U8. No change. Finally got another 7402, socketed and replaced U8: problem gone! Jacks to Open will be at Allentown, no pics or price yet.

Black Hole is the most correctly named machine in pinball.

Have you tested the Q transistors with a meter I had a Raven (same driver board) with multiple lamps out and each was caused by a dead transistor. Also check to see if any of your feature lamps are stuck on, I had some of them too and they were transistor problems. All of them were MPS-U45's which are no longer available, replaced by CEN-U45's, available rom Mouser, among others.

Vitrigraph playfield?

System 80b MPU board for sale, see Pinside Market post below:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/70179

I have a System 80a Jacks to Open, no way to set free play.

At one time I thought that I saw a picture tutorial on how to graft in an extra switch to the Start switch in order to increment a credit when the Start button is pressed. The new switch had to close before the original start switch for it to work right. The new switch was somehow wired to a coin switch. I could probably figure it out, but with pics it would be easier.

Thanks,

Alan

I may have had the same problem on a Raven that I used to have. Is the board that you replaced the driver board? If so, check your manual and see if there is a separate Chaser Lamp board that drives just those few lamps. I can't see it on the IPDB or there may not be one. But if you find it, remove it and reflow the header pins. That's all mine needed.

https://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=1922&picno=25202

Here's a good pic of that Chaser Lamp board on a 80b Raven. It's the small board that is in the middle of the rectangular board that is perpendicular to the playfield toward that bottom of the pic. Reflow both headers if you have one.

I had this on CL without too much luck. Sold my last machine on Pinside, so here's another one.

Machine - For Sale

Jacks to Open, Gottlieb 1984 Archived

Fully shopped/refurbished - “For sale is a 1984 Gottlieb "Jacks to Open". This is a System 80a machine that is in 100% working condition with all ground mods performed. Reduced from $900 on CL. The backglass...”

2019-01-19

Jarrettsville, MD

Alan_L

795

Archived after: 5 days

Viewed: 221 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

I need to replace the outhole kicker coil (A-5195, 11.6 ohms, 26-1305) on a Jacs to Open. Can I use a Bally AN26-1200, 12.5 ohm? Is there any chance of long term damage if I do?

Thanks dothedoo, go Huskers!

John's Jukes in Vancouver, BC.

www.flippers.com

He's the only one licensed by Gottlieb.

You could also try Steve Young at PBR.

I have a friend who has a Jacks to Open that is constantly racking up points 1000 at a time. Seems like a switch that is almost closed and vibrating. Does anyone know what switch on a JtO scores 1000 points?

Thanks,

Alan

That's a good idea but the non-stop scoring starts the instant you press the Start button and doesn't stop until you drain three balls. Touching all the various switches has no effect.

Maybe you blew the solenoid fuse in the process?

Anyone got a picture of Diamond Lady Sound Board so I can see how JP7 and JP8 are jumpered so I can make sure mine are correct?

Here you go,

20190513_215022 (resized).jpg

20190513_215028 (resized).jpg

Unless your soldering skills and equipment are well above average, do not attempt to remove the daugterboard, reflow and reinstall.

Gottlieb, being notoriously more frugal than Bally or Williams when it came to product cost control, would not have installed such an expensive part were it not necessary. If you try and weld/solder the blades back on, you can't get them perfect so the motor will shake and make a lot of noise.
Get a new or good used one.

A friend has a solid state Joker Poker with a fairly new Ni-Wumpf MPU and Rottendog driver and power supply boards. The cpu does not fully boot at power up and the displays are out. But when turning off the machine the displays come on for about two seconds and go out. Don't know if ground mods have been done or any connector re-pinning, but what could cause this and where do you guys think I should start looking?

Thanks,

Alan

The Ball Launch motor on my Hot Shots just quit. It was working fine. I tried an extra motor that I happened to have, still dead.
The voltage to the motor through connector A9J10/P10 should be around 120 VAC. My meter shows 54 VAC there. I cannot figure out where I'm losing 66 or so volts.
Any ideas ad to where to start looking? See pic below.

20230119_175034 (resized).jpg

The "A" Relay works when a game is started, the contacts have been card cleaned. I got the A relay to work by repeatedly pressing the Interlock Switch and taping it down with the playfield up.

The varistor doesn't look blown or burnt, it's bright red, but could it still be bad?

It's tough to verify 120vac at the small transformer because there are no lugs like a Bally. The wires go down into the transformer. There are factory crimped wire nuts at the first junction between the green (5) wires coming out of the small transformer and the vio-brn-brn (711) and the vio-vio-vio- (777) wires going to A9J10 through the A switch and varistor. Should I remove these nuts to get a good reading on the transformer output?

Thanks for your help. Turning in, I'll check with you in the morning.

Alan

I cut myself off.

It's tough to get a good reading on the small transformer output because the wires go down inside the transformer unlike a Bally which has lugs. There are two factory-crimped wire nuts at the junction of the green (5) wires and the vio-brn-brn (711) wires and the vio-vio-vio- (777) wires. Should I remove these nuts to get an accurate reading of the transformer output?

The ohm reading on the varistor is 17.2.

Thanks for your help. Turning in, I'll check in in the morning.

Alan

Found the problem with my non-working Hot Shots' Ball Launch Assembly. After all the electrical back and forth, the cause was that some wretched doofus had replaced the set screw in the small white gear with a 1/4" machine screw. Sounds innocent but the outside of the screw was hitting on the bottom of the metal plate opposite the gear. The screw was actually digging into the metal and was preventing the shaft from spinning. Also, all the spinning shafts were gummy and dirty. After correcting those problems and it works great.

Many thanks for your help and advice to sparky672.

Have you tried Steve Young at Pinball Resource?

80b Hot Shots.

Solenoids and Ball Launch Motor rarely work. When starting a game, the Game Over "Q" Relay will energize for a second and a half, then de-energize for about 10 seconds, then energize for a second or so and then de-energize for 10 seconds. This just keeps going on and on. During the 1 second periods, the solenoids work but the Ball Launch motor rarely works. The "Q" relay energizes the "A" motor relay for the brief second when the solenoids work, and which is supposed to activate the Ball Launch motor. It seems like something is keeping the "Q" relay for staying energized.

The signal to the "Q" relay comes through the A3J3 connector, to the Z1 SN74175N Latch Flip-Flop on the Driver board, then back to the Z32 SN7417N Hex Buffer on the MPU.

I don't want to go ripping out chips willy-nilly here when it probably is something simpler. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Alan

What machine, year?

Kitty approved.