Are you still looking for the back box hardware? I have some hardware from a donor / parted Mars God of War.

Working out some bugs with my Black Hole pinball machine. Had just got done tracking down and repairing a dreaded GI short on the main play field, and decided to do some upgrades and bulletproofing while I had the play field removed. After my “ attempts” at bulletproofing and upgrades, I seem to have a couple of issues:

1. Right Side Flipper Issue: Currently the right side flippers are not operational when the flipper button is depressed. However is an significant arc / flash / spark that I can see (through ball guide crease) at the flipper switch — when pressed., and there is no flipper action. I found the one (1) solenoid had the coil diode backwards, but corrected it. Hopefully that did not cause board trouble. When the ball goes down to the lower playfield, the lower playfield right flipper is operational. It appears the U relay is okay (the contacts show normally closed as per the schematics ). Has anyone ever had this sparking issue at the flipper switch? Any suggestions?

2.) Up Kicker Not Strong Enough: The infamous up kicker strikes again. There was a A-1496 coil installed which was working great. Again I was going to upgrade and continue my bulletproofing (Bulletproofing = upgrading the power transistor and adding the pull up resistor, installed and wired a pop bumper driver board to prevent burn out/ meltdown / overheating, and upgraded the coil to the A-4893 coil). The pop bumper driver board was a suggestion found on Pin Lizards Black Hole / Haunted House Club manual. I am stumped why the up kicker lost the strength / power to shoot the ball up the ramp. Defective power transistor? Suggestions?

Going to cross post this over at Black Hole Club as well. If anyone could assist or provide some guidance or insight it would be greatly appreciated. I am so close to getting this machine running so I can enjoy it. I have learned so much, but still have so much more to learn. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

I have a brand new 3” rebuild kit if that would help you.

Seeking guidance and assistance with a problem that just occurred with my Gottlieb Genesis pinball machine. My daughter was in the middle of playing a game, when the music started fading and the score display went completely blank. The flippers were still operational, but pop bumper and drop targets were dead. When the pinball drained into the outhole, nothing happened. Cycled the power to the machine, and the game will not reboot.

Any ideas or leads where I can start to troubleshoot? Checked all fuses >>> good. Daughter is having a graduation party this weekend, so hoping to get this repaired and resolved. Thanks in advance.

Calling on all System 80 gurus, enthusiasts, experts, or anyone that can lend some technical help and advice. I am bringing a 1981 Volcano back from the dead and restoring it to add to my Gottlieb collection. I am so close to completion and playing the machine, that it is now driving me crazy.

I have now hit a road block and wall, and I am stumped and don’t know where to continue with my troubleshooting. The machine was energized, and booted when start button was depressed. Started checking all kickers, pop bumpers, slingshots, switches, etc. and found the right side drop target bank had an issue. Found the drive transistor (2N3055) was shorted, so replaced it along with a new solenoid coil. HOWEVER, I did not check the position of the diode and it was backwards. After the drop target reset would not reset, with new coil, I found my mistake and and corrected it. The drive transistor and pre-transistor are both good.

Sorry for the long, back history but here is the current situation:

1). When turned ON, the pinball boots and I have full attract mode and all displays. The high score to date also cycles as normal.

2.) At the start up THUNK (solenoids), the ball release energizes and allows the 1st ball to roll into the shoot ( before any start button is depressed).

3.) When START button is depressed, the outhole kicks the last ball into the holding shoot, BUT no ball release or anything else. The 1st player is flashing “0” as the display is showing game ready, BUT there is no action:

• no flippers
• no rollovers, switches, slingshots, etc.
• only general illumination lighting with a couple of insert lights that stay on
• the pinball seems to be “ dead “

Does anyone have any insight, knowledge, or guidance of what the problem may be? Any leads or direction where to look? I appreciate any help or assistance. Thank you all.

No sir.

The ball release premature “firing” was occurring when I was able to start up a game and performed testing. When the premature ball was returned to the drain, the game would run as normal.

However, now that the game seems “dead”, despite the Player 1 display appearing ready, when the premature ball is returned to the drain, the game will kick the ball from outhole up into holding trough. But then all (3) balls just sit there.

Yes.

Confirmation of all (3) balls in the trough. Typical (3) ball setup in Gottlieb System 80 (Black Hole, Mars, Devil’s Dare, etc.) where there is two (2) balls in the trough (one at ball release, one adjacent, and one in the out hole drain >>> No change!

All switches were checked as well and are good (2 trough switches and drain outhole).

Agreed.

I am practically banging my head against the wall, and I am so frustrated. So close….

UPDATE:

As you stated, all (3) balls have to be in the trough. Looks like the outhole kicks the last ball into the trough at the draining of your the last ball. As soon as I placed all 3 balls in the trough, it fired right up. Need to make a couple small adjustments. Thanks for the tip and persistence to keep looking at trough.

Now to figure why the ball release is prematurely activating upon first powering up / turning on the unit. In addition, I am now getting TILT…. TILT …TiLT…. speech at times. Also making a punch list of small tweaks and fine tuning.

In the final stretch of Volcano restoration and on the verge of declaring it ready to go, but I am working out some last minute items on a punch list. Got the ball trough issue and the ball release issues resolved, now I am trying to diagnose an issue with the shooter guide button (green button) on be right side. This button will stop the shooter guide motor, freeze the crater lights (trying to select the right crater the ball will drop into for multi ball lock), and / or freeze the light in front of the upper left drop targets.

Problem that has arisen is, once the green button is pressed and closes the contacts all these functions occur (as they should), however, the game goes into full TILT mode, including the speech saying tilt….tilt……tilt. The schematics show a “M” set of contacts for the shooter guide motor, but I cannot find where the “M” coil is on the schematics and what activates it. Any ideas out there? Any guidance or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

Thanks sparky672 for the great information. I glanced right over and missed where that motor relay is shown on the schematic. It was right in front of me, although I still had to look very closely at your picture of the schematic, with all the wording (jumbled together) … but there it is.

Definitely clears things up. I will take your advice and check for any shorts, especially with the diodes. Thanks again.

Checked the diode board and all wiring checks out >>> good. There are no wires, screws, or conducting foreign debris shorting across the diodes.

Removed all the balls from the trough / machine, and initiated Step #18 >>> “99” was on the display.

As a test measure, I even removed the tilt plumb bob / track wire from the return side of the diode >>> to disable any tilt switches and it still occurs. Reconnect this wire.

Also while in switch test (Step #18), the green motor guide button displays #76, and the tilt slide / plumb bob displayed a different number (cannot remember at this time). I am thinking something is being energized when the motor guide green motor button is depressed.

Question? Since this is home use only, could I just remove the coil wire from the tilt relay? Would this cause other issues?

I removed the wire from the one end of tilt switch / plumb bob diode to disable” the tilt signal. But this did not stop the problem. My thoughts were if there is wire shorted, the tilt relay coil being disabled will allow the game to continue.

Is this the sequence of the tilt operation?

I had this MPU sent to Chris Hibler and paid to have it checked out and repaired (if needed). There was a little corrosion that was treated and corrected. Otherwise, I was told it worked.

All the connectors were repinned.

Unfortunately it appears the problem lies with the MPU. As a last resort, I took my working MPU from my Haunted House pinball machine and swapped it into the Volcano. The green button on the right works as is should >>> stops the motor and running light (upper left drop targets) for the skill shot, and freezes the crater light when trying to lock a ball for multi ball. The tilt issue is no longer present.

So….can this be repaired? Can switch matrix issues be corrected? Or am I screwed and the MPU is faulty, and I will need a replacement?

Is there a tutorial, link, or information on how to use a logic probe and check the pins on this Z14 integrated circuit (IC) and what to look for?

I have been in this hobby for (4) years now, and have learned a lot, but there is a lot I need to learn yet…especially with electronics.

Yes I reached out to home this afternoon. He stated that it is possible that something in the game damaged the switch matrix. Of may be concern is that something may have shorted to high voltage, such as kicking targets and the coin drop switches.

With this possible revelation, is there anything else that anyone has seen or experienced >>> high voltage short that would damage the switch matrix? Is there any other components that I should check as well?

sparky672 and REGNE

I cannot thank you guys enough for taking the time to post up pictures, diagrams, information, and insights. I am writing down and recording all this great information for future reference.

This is a 2N3055 power transistor. They are used to drive “larger” devices such as 4-5 bank drop target coils, etc. They do go bad, and in some cases could get so hot that they turn the PCB board black around the transistor.

This is a direct quote from Pinwiki:

To test, set your digital multimeter (DMM) to diode mode and perform the following steps:

NPN TO-3 package (2N3055, 2N6057, 2N6059, MJ10000)

Place the black lead of your DMM on the metal case of the transistor
Probe each of the legs with the red lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading
Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor

You can certainly check this transistor while on the driver board. If the other transistors check out, then just change the one (1) that is faulty or bad.

I have a spare that I purchased from him, and is available for sale if anyone is interested.

Cross posting from another thread.

Small bump as I am looking for a Gottlieb System 80A skinny head. The skinny heads included:

Super Orbit
Royal Flush Deluxe
Amazon Hunt
Rack Em’ Up
Jacks To Open
Alien Star
The Games
Touchdown
El Dorado: City of Gold
Ice Fever

The head can be vacated. Unfortunately we see pictures of horror pictures of pinballs that were in floods, but perhaps there may be a head / light box that can be salvaged. If anyone has any leads, please contact me. Thanks again for your help.

Harbor Freight has this mini hook and pick set. I use the angled pic (shown on the far right side in the picture), and this depresses that slot. This tool and a needle nose pliers makes it rather easy to remove these single pins.

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Reaching out for some troubleshooting assistance with my newly acquired Gottlieb Caveman pinball machine. This game was operational, with some small sound issues, and the seller recorded a video of the game in action. However, after performing bulletproofing and recommended ground modifications, the game will not boot up and play. Before going any further, the following were performed:
• All solid state boards are original style (no upgraded aftermarket boards).
• Recommended ground modifications were installed to all boards.
• Original orange capacitors were replaced with 12,000 mfd @ 25V radial snap capacitors (from Marco’s Specialties).
• All single side connectors were repinned, including the A23-J2 connector at the I / O board.
• Installed the updated Caveman Evolutions eeprom (designed by Davroux Brothers).
• All fuses checked and good.
When the pinball was first energized, the displays all illuminated, but most of the playfield lights ( not all ) locked on
and there is NO attract mode. The test mode cannot be activated nor can any credits be added. All the while the video is in GERMAN attract mode. All the tilt (pendulum/ ball roll / playfield side to side all normally open) and the slam switch (normally closed) were in correct position. After being powered up and performing various tests, now the displays DO NOT illuminate and different lighting stays locked on, and still CANNOT get a game started. I even tried swapping out a working Swemmer MPU board, but the results were the same (with no changes), so the problem lies in the game.
I scoured and searched the internet and YouTube for information and answers, but only found a little information. Can anyone provide any insight, or point me in the right direction as to where to start troubleshooting this game? I really do not know where to start. Thanks for your help.

Check the power supply. Ensure you have 5 volts DC outputting, as it supplies the displays and the MPU. The pins on the power supply are notorious for cold solder joints (cracks in the soldered connection). This is an easy fix, as you simply reflow solder to all the pin connections on the backside of the printed circuit board (PCB).

And if you do not have the manual with schematics, you will need to pick one up. Steve Young at Pinball Resource can sell you one.

Have an unusual issue that I am looking for some information. Just had some friends playing my Gottlieb Volcano over the weekend, and they said they were getting electrically shocked while playing (flippers) and the coin door was giving a shock as well. I assumed they had their hands on the side rails next to the flippers (as they were playing).

Ironically, the game plans normal / as it should, with no blown fuses. The one (1) player grabbed his multimeter and stated he is “seeing” 70 volts AC on the door when the game is powered up. Anyone ever experience this? Any ideas where to check? Thanks in advance.

UPDATE:

The plug on the end of the cord only had two (2) blades, with NO ground prong. There was a ground wire, but it was cleanly cut and tucked into the housing. I don’t know how I missed this, but I immediately installed a new, replacement cord with the proper ground prong present.

Thanks to everyone who offered insight and information.

Currently restoring a 1981 Gottlieb Force II System 80 pinball machine. Calling out to any Force II owners, and requesting a couple high resolution pictures of the following red boxes areas (with text / script) on the upper left side of the playfield, next to the left side roll over lanes:

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Looking to take those good images and manufacture slide water decals to cover the damaged areas. Thank you all for your time and consideration.

How is your Gottlieb Spirit?

Jump on it!!!

Punk is a highly sought after game.

Mouser Electronics has them for $0.09 if you purchase 100+. Just received another order.

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I had the same issue with my Gottlieb Force II spinner. The light weight, white plastic spinner was very weak and sometimes wouldn’t even register.

Installed the “checkered” metal spinner found on generation 2 system 80 games (Volcano, Black Hole) and later, and it makes a HUGE difference. So much better gameplay.

Very interested!

Signed up on the waiting list via your link. Thanks for offering this!!!

I may have a spare Ty.

Let me check and I will get back to you.

I am interested as well.

Please PM me when you have a price in mind, and what inventory you have left. Thanks.

Does that work on System 80 pinball games?

Thank you for the information.

Available and message sent.

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I’m sorry, it was sold and is no longer available.

I have the actual skeleton skull model, still in box, that was used to construct the topper. Let me know if interested.