Alien Star
Gottlieb, 1984
Arena
Gottlieb, 1987
Asteroid Annie and the Aliens
Gottlieb, 1980
Bad Girls
Gottlieb, 1988
Big House
Gottlieb, 1989
Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981
Bone Busters Inc.
Gottlieb, 1989
Bounty Hunter
Gottlieb, 1985You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RobDutch.
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Working on a Gottlieb for the first time --> System 80B #Big House
When I got it, it had no signs of life.
Already got it booting and playing for the most part, but most of the switches don't seem to work. (in play and test mode)
Are there some known switch issues on these games?
I know about the ground mods and will do those.
Thanks!
WhatsApp Image 2022-01-27 at 21.54.02 (resized).jpegQuoted from Cheddar:The switch connector is in the corrosion zone so that connector is always suspect. There is also no diode protection for the switch lines so look at the matrix and see if you have rows or columns out. If coil power was sent down a switch line you might see groups out.
If you get down to single switches out, Gottlieb switches are very intolerant of being dirty or tarnished.
A1-J6 is the problem. Wiggling with the connector a bit makes certain switches work in switch test. Looking inside the connector: not good.. I think the connector needs to be repinned, what parts do I need for this? I do have a crimping tool that I use for Molex. Thanks!
I wanted to change my Big House from 5 balls to 3 balls, but I noticed changing the dip switches does not change anything.
What could cause this? 
Quoted from slochar:Bad dip.
Ding ding ding you are correct!
Jumpered dip switch 25 for 1 game, and suddenly it is 3 balls 
Will replace all 4 of the dip-banks, thanks!
Quoted from chuckwurt:Update. Jumping pin 4 and 10 on the back of the board did nothing. Neither initials button adds credits. Might just add another switch as I had spares in my stuff unless someone has another idea.
Also confirmed via the Big House manual. No diode board.
How would adding a credit button work? Connect it to a coin switch or something?
I would love putting my Big House on free play, but if that is not possible: a credit switch is a good alternative.
Quoted from Quench:Looks to me like the cabinet /coin door switches are run to different diode boards - I think you mentioned there were four boards under the playfield? In the pictures of the two diode boards you posted I think I see most of the wires, but there's likely another diode board involved aswell.
Anyway on diode board at 1A7 P1, the blue jumper link shown below should tie the left advance button to the left coin chute, or if you prefer using the right advance button add the jumper link shown in pink instead.
See how you go.
[quoted image]
Going to try this, thank you!
Sold my Big House a few weeks ago and the new owner had a fix for the credits.
He drilled a hole in the coindoor, put a button there and hooked that to the wiring of one of the coin switches.
Easier then having to open the door all the time, just thought I'd share this with you guys
IMG-20220513-WA0002 (resized).jpgIMG-20220513-WA0003 (resized).jpgQuoted from Robotworkshop:Unfortunately someone did this on my Genesis, Volcano, and Red Baron too. No reason to drill any holes in the coin door.
For Machines that don't have a freeplay setting the best method I've seen was to use an old plastic coin mech where someone mounted a leaf switch to it. Whenever the reject button was pushed it adds credits. No mods to the coin door other than soldering jumper wires to the existing switch which can easily be undone. Unlike drilling extra holes which is permanent. At least it looks like it was done neatly but better not to drill holes in the door at all.
Thats why I didn't try this method, not a fan either but if you're planning on keeping a game: it is an option. Your idea is a lot better though, will remember if I ever get another machine without free play. Thanks!
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Towson, MD