(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Sammer
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #5634 Gold Wings Settings page Posted by mbaumle (1 year ago)

Post #5771 Arena settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #5801 Robowar settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)


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#3764 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Does anybody have teardown pics for Mars God of War?

Have a look at the shopout pictures in the Mars God of War machine gallery:

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/mars-god-of-war/gallery

2 months later
#3962 3 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

which one are you suppose to use when doing Gottlieb Sys80b roms?

It depends on which EPROM chips you have. Can you post clear pictures of the EPROMs showing model numbers and the silicon die in the window?

#3964 3 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Blank NEC D2716D 8423PX003, Japan made.

If they are genuine and not Chinese remarks then you need to select "2716(25V VPP)".
You should use an external power pack with the GQ-4X.
If the speed in the GQ-4X software is set to "+2" change it to "0" or "-1". 2716 chips need slow programming.

#3970 3 years ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Also i should ask about 2764 aswell, 2764 (25V vpp) there aswell? i was gonna reburn only prom 2, but i might aswell reburn both of them.

Instead of using All/Generic Manufacturer settings, it's better if you select the actual chip manufacturer and the matching device model in the software so it can use the correct programming voltage for the specific chip.

So for the "NEC D2716D" chip you have, in the software select manufacturer "NEC" and chip device model "D2716".
No need to guess when the chip models are there and supported.

I don't think there are any 2764 with 25V programming. Most are 12.75V programming.

2 weeks later
#4016 3 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Supposed to go dc directly from transformer to plug up to the power supply board

Nope, the DC offset is being applied to the centre tap on those two transformer windings FROM the powersupply board. Tansformers cannot output DC.

11 months later
#4795 2 years ago
Quoted from gjm:

So it doesn't matter what wire goes to the filter lugs?

Left and right on the filter itself don't matter.
Left "line" going in comes out on the left "load", right "line" going in comes out on the right "load".

What matters is that the "hot" going in from the line cord must connect to the "hot" in the game.
The hot in the game is the wire that has the fuse before the transformer. i.e. the games main line fuse(s) must be connected on the hot side, not the neutral.

1 month later
#4965 2 years ago
Quoted from semicolin:

Just saw this on another board, and it might be the answer to the problem of the unobtainable SC-01 chip.

The developer has already discussed it on Pinside:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sc-01-speech-synthesizer-replacement#post-6090997

5 months later
#5260 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

But the switches on the coin door aren’t in the matrix and cannot find where the start button and the initials buttons are to see what diodes drive them.

Here's where the cabinet/coin door switches are in the switch matrix for Bad Girls (in red).

BadGirls_SwitchMatrix.pngBadGirls_SwitchMatrix.png

#5262 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

My manual didn’t have the stuff in red.

I drew the red stuff based on the info from the cabinet wiring diagram - bottom right of the page with the mains transformer

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Is there a way to tell what diodes relate to those switches? I’m not see it.

Post clear pictures of the two diode boards under the playfield you mentioned. The connector wire colors should help indicate which diodes.

BTW, do you see any connectors marked A9J1 / A9P1? (these appear to interface the cabinet switch wiring to the playfield wiring somewhere)

#5267 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Is there a way to tell what diodes relate to those switches? I’m not see it.

Looks to me like the cabinet /coin door switches are run to different diode boards - I think you mentioned there were four boards under the playfield? In the pictures of the two diode boards you posted I think I see most of the wires, but there's likely another diode board involved aswell.

Anyway on diode board at 1A7 P1, the blue jumper link shown below should tie the left advance button to the left coin chute, or if you prefer using the right advance button add the jumper link shown in pink instead.
See how you go.

BadGirls_DiodeBoard_1A7P1_freeplay.jpgBadGirls_DiodeBoard_1A7P1_freeplay.jpg

#5274 2 years ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Going to try this, thank you!

Let us know how it goes!

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Fyi. Big House doesn’t have these boards.

Where are the switch matrix diodes? Did they put them on the actual switches like other manufacturers?

#5288 2 years ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Looking at Black Hole and Haunted House schematics I can't figure out which of the 'L's are specifically designated for driving coils at 28v.

The Black Hole playfield schematic lists the lamp numbers from the driver board that directly drives relays and power transistor driven solenoids.
For example:

Driver board schematic with lamp number outputs:

Lamp_Drivers.pngLamp_Drivers.png

Playfield schematic with lamp number outputs derived to drive relays/remote power transistor assisted solenoids.

Lamp_Drivers2.pngLamp_Drivers2.png

2 months later
#5418 1 year ago

The amplifier chip needs to be soldered. The three centre pins each side of the chip provide direct thermal conductivity away from the internal silicon die to the PCB. Those stick on heatsinks are not a match for performance.

5 months later
#5844 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I’m gonna go out on a limb and assume that the Black Hole motor at most had different gearing and therefore spun at a slower or faster rate.

The Spirit manual says the motor is powered by 28VAC
The Black Hole manual says the motor is powered by 6VDC
The Black Hole motor looks very different to the Spirit example above.

You'll have to get creative.

#5849 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I’d welcome pointers if anybody has ideas.

Use a bridge rectifier to convert the 28VAC to 26VDC and use a 24VDC motor.

Or wire a 6VDC motor to 6VDC like Black Hole.

Spirit wiring schematic - motor in the middle:
Wiring_Backbox.pngWiring_Backbox.png

Black Hole wiring schematic - motor in the lower area:
Wiring_Backbox.pngWiring_Backbox.png

1 month later
#5925 1 year ago

Great Plains has been closed for a few months.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
News on the front page of the web site:

Latest store news
10 September 2022 -
After more than 20 years, I have retired.
Great Plains Electronics will not be taking any further orders.
All existing orders have been filled or are in the process of being filled.
To all my customers - it has been my honor serving you.

9 months later
#6351 5 months ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

On our Black Hole the tilt bob has to hit the ring multiple times before activating

Try this and see if it helps - implement a larger capacitor Bally style:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_1#Tilt_Switch_Not_Sensed_Accurately_with_Ni-Wumpf_MPU_Installed

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