(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 45 hours ago by bajm
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Post #5634 Gold Wings Settings page Posted by mbaumle (1 year ago)

Post #5771 Arena settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #5801 Robowar settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)


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#1987 6 years ago

HI all I am new to this club as I am new to owning a Sys 1 Genie. I am having 2 main problems. So first off when I turn the game on sometimes it does now fully turn off and then after a few off and ons it will fully come on. My second and most frustrating problem is my damn drop targets. When I have the 2A fuse under the playfield in, The drops will not come up, sometimes the front 4 will but then the fuse blows. If I manually put them up and turn the game on then knock them down, the score perfectly but will not come back up. Now I do not know how bad of an idea this was but I was told that SOMETIMES you can put a 2.5A or even a 3A. I put a 2.5A in and all the drops came up and the back ones worked almost perfectly but the front 4 were locked up so the coil was locked I am assuming. Any help would be fantastic and thanks in advance. By the way I suck at reading the switch matrix, since I am relatively new but have been doing a ton of research and watch videos etc. These are pretty much the only 2 things I have left to have the game working 100% (I did do the ground mods on all 3 boards)

#1995 6 years ago

Has anyone had any power issues with their system 1? Mine will turn on and fully play but it sometimes takes 3-5 On/Off switch button presses.

#1997 6 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I would check the switch.
However when this happens you may want to check power in the cabinet at the transformers and see if they are getting power. Do you get any lights or nothing when it doesn’t boot?
On another note. If a sys1 cpu board has issues, is it just recommended to buy a replacement? I don’t see anyone that repairs them, and Clive said to just replace, but ~$200, mmm Worth trying to fix myself?

I do get some lights and back glass lights to come on when it doesn’t boot fully. It’s never fully dead when I turn it on

1 week later
#2024 5 years ago

Ok... I’ve been posting a ton about my dumb genie... so I have the game working perfectly for about 5-8 games and then the 2amp fuse blows. WTF

#2027 5 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Was it a fast blow when it should have been a slow blow?

It says slow blow and I have a slow blow in there

#2028 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Line fuse or on a specific line/thing?

Not sure what you mean. There’s 7 fuses on the bottom panel and 1 underside of the playfield and it’s that one.

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#2030 5 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Ah. Line fuse being on the line coming into the game, the others I mean by is it just for xyz coils, lights, 12v, 5v etc
Do you have the manual for the game?

I do

#2033 5 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

Can you follow the wire to see where it’s going ? Or does it go back into a bundle. If you’re having a hard time finding it in the schematic check the colour numbers associated with what’s on the physical wire. Looks like white with purple and red stripes... a table on the schematic will tell you what the three number code for that is... eg 137 and then you can find it on the schematic... square boxes annotated on a signal line.

Right into a huge bundle and I printed the manual so maybe I don’t have the full thing but I’ll look now for color code numbers

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#2035 5 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

I have a Spider-Man and believe I have some fuses to protect the slingshot coils in case the switches get caught under a rubber or contacts too close and it just keeps firing. Can you not tell what isn’t working when the fuse is out? Something must not be firing.

Yes the drops don’t reset and I’m thinking it’s connected more to the 4 bank of drops. I’ll put a 2A fuse in and they’ll all work great and reset then after about 5-10 games it’ll blow

#2039 5 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

That’s where it’s going then. You may want to check if the coil gets locked on occasionally. There’s not likely a constant flow of current that’s borderline and eventually blows the fuse. More likely something accidentally gets locked on, so the fuse blows before it burns out the coil.
Is there some kind of eos switch on the bank reset coil that should be releasing it but isn’t? I don’t look at those much so dont know off the top of my head what tells the coil to stop energizing. Direct from mpu? Or something mechanical like in a flipper.

I put a 2.5 amp in the holder to see what happened a while ago and the coil locked on and didn’t unlock til I turned the game of the coil has never locked on with a 2 A in it and after about 5 games of the machine working great the machine doesn’t turn on consistently but eventually will play and then a few games after it’ll blow the fuse

#2041 5 years ago
Quoted from srcdube:

So... need to figure out what’s keeping the coil locked on.

I just put a 2.5 A in and it’s not locking on now... I’m leaving the game on a while to see what happens. If this was the problem I’m going to be happy yet pissed off. I’ll keep you posted and thanks!!

#2043 5 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Is this a pop bumper fuse?

Not that I know of cause I tested the bumpers nd rest of the game switches with out that fuse in and the 3 bumpers worked

#2048 5 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

This post isn't going to be popular with a lot of you but it is the absolute truth. The Gottlieb designers didn't provide enough wiggle room on some of the fused devices. This is most apparent on coils. Try using a 2 1/2 amp sb fuse. I had the same problem. If fuse holds you are good to go. If it doesn't you have a different problem.

So I put a 2.5 A in I’ve left the game on and it’s not locking on and the banks are working well and no blown fuse yet. The only problem I’m seeing now with the 2.5 A in is it might take 3-5 times to turn on fully. If it doesn’t I’ll hear some strange noises and the slam tilt or knocker, knocks but it turns after a few on and offs and and works great so far. I’m fine with having to click it on a few times as long as it consistently works

#2052 5 years ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

That fuse should not have anything to do with turning the game on. I would check the voltages on your power supply. Also, how do the pins look on the cable going from the power supply to the MPU? If it they look iffy replace them or just buy a new cable.

voltages were all good on the PS and pins seem fine.

all stock boards

thanks ill look into the power

#2054 5 years ago

So I recapped my power supply cause I had a lot so why not. It’s still turning on currently here and there but not much has changed until it blew my 1amp primary fuse next to me transformer so I put back the other power supply I had which works fine it seems and I checked the bridges one was reading between .4 and .6 from both ground and + but the other one was reading about .393 from both ground and + is that a big enough difference for it to affect the game? Should I replace it?

#2060 5 years ago

How concerning is it if my Bridge rectifier is reading .393 instead of between .4-.6? Replace? Or is it fine?
Also my 2 12A fuses have covers around the glass. is that normal?

#2065 5 years ago
Quoted from CactusJack:

Have you done the recommended Ground mods to all your boards? What you are experiencing is typical of when the ground potential for the driver board changes in relationship to the source voltage (MPU Board and Regulator board) which can allow the PNP driver on the playfield to get just enough voltage to "hold" a coil but not actually fully energize one. So, with a DT reset, it gets pulled in and then doesn't let go even though the MPU thinks it turned it off.
Your 2.5A fusing is risking not only the life of the DT Reset coil, but also the drivers on the driver board. Chances are, while the coil draws more than 2Amps it doesn't draw the full 2.5 amps so the fuse does not blow. Instead, the coil will heat up, start burning enamel off the windings, start to short windings to windings, reduce the Ohms, increase the current draw, and then start blowing the higher rated fuse. That's if it doesn't melt its nylon sleeve first (unless it has the old Brass ones).

I do have all the ground mods one the back box boards, (not the sound board yet) but an hour ago I changed the diode on the coil with a new one and put back the 2A fuse and ive played about 10 games so far and everything is working and the game is turning on every try. cross your finders for me.

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