(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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Post #5634 Gold Wings Settings page Posted by mbaumle (1 year ago)

Post #5771 Arena settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #5801 Robowar settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)


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#961 8 years ago

Owner of a fully restored Volcano (it was stored in a very damp and dirty garage for a couple of years before i got it) here.

1 month later
#992 8 years ago

Well i had the bros over for a G&B (game & beer) evening and one of them pats me on the shoulder when i was standing and talking to another bro and tells me that my Volcano smell like burnt electrics!

Ran over and unplugged, and started to open up the backbox and the smell got stronger + smoke vafted out, nothing looked out of the ordinary/burning bright in the backbox so i let my nose wander down into the cab and lo and behold one of the bumper coils where like turning into melted cheese.

So i opened everything up, aired out the putrid smoke and unsoldered the red-hot coil (i had to use gloves to even touch the metal holders), naturally the only shop in Sweden didnt have the coil Gottlieb A-1496 so i had to order from Germany.

First time ever for me that a coils burns, gave me a fright LOL

3 years later
#3029 4 years ago

So, im gonna chime in with a quick question, i have a Goldwings that ive gotten to live again, it boots, credits up, starts a game and you get ball, sound, music, lamps, kickers, bumpers, flippers and everything, but alot of switches dont register at all, while others do, for example, the 3 targets on the aircraft carrier works like normal, but the others on the left dont, same with the 3 rollover switches up on top, neither reacts when rolled over, neither of the "roundabouts" react, but the ramp switch and the loop switch does.

Is this a chip or a matrix problem or a contact problem? have a steady 5.01 volts all the time and ive cleaned and scrubbed every contact in the game like 2 times now and ive resoldered everything that is solderable.

Its the last problem now before i got a fully working Goldwings.

#3032 4 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I had the same problem with my System 80 Amazing Spider-Man. It ended up being a switch that was closed. Just go through all switches and check off the ones that register. For the ones that do not register, are they part of the same switch number? It has to do with the switch matrix.
Another problem could be caused by bad contacts at the driver board.
Hopefully this helps.

Looks like this during a game:

gw (resized).jpggw (resized).jpg
#3034 4 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I would definitely check the contacts if you have those edge connectors for the driver and mpu board. I'm assuming they are edge connectors for your system? It seems you have a variety of switches that are not activating. Also, check your manual for the switch matrix and see if the non-activating switches are along the same row or column. One switch can affect the others on that same row or column...can't remember if its row or column.
1. Check edge conectors at driver and mpu board for all wires associated with your switches.
2. Cross-check the switch matrix with the picture you posted above and see if there is a pattern. One switch can affect others along the same row/column.
3. You may need to repin. It's a fun project.
4. If repinning does not solve all switch problems, list your non-activating switches and see if there's a pattern to the failure. I ended up having one Switch number (several locations) affected because one particular location had a switch closed (maybe caused by installing new rubber rings)..

Well i did a brave thing and tested putting my Hollywood Heat MPU in Goldwings, and then voilá all the switches/game worked as normal, so its a chip/MPU problem on the Goldwing MPU, so much is clear now.

the game do say "Memoy error - Z5" in testmode, and it signals like a load of switches are clsoed when they arent IRL, like the switches that dont work.

1 week later
#3053 4 years ago

So bros, men, the ROMs on Gottlieb sys80b (Hot shots), are they easily found (and what number do they have other then just 2764? all i can find in the manual) brand new?

#3055 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Search for arcade emulator sites.

Ah, i already have the files, i meant the chip itself.

1 month later
#3113 4 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Added a Volcano to my Gottlieb early SS lineup ...[quoted image]

Man i miss my Volcano, fun game

4 months later
#3318 4 years ago

Well, ive lumbered the Goldwings i had problems with out from hibernation now again and still have that Matrix problem i asked about earlier.
Ive checked allt he switches in the affectad areas, and no switch is stuck, and as i figured out earlier if switched to my Hollywood Heat MPU, it all works, so its clearly a MPU problem.

Now on Gottlieb sys80b, what controls the Switch matrixes? a chip, right? which one would it be?
e3fb2b9229d09abb7a827492d94673619013766d (resized).jpge3fb2b9229d09abb7a827492d94673619013766d (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#3345 4 years ago
Quoted from crujones4life:

I just picked up a Gold Wings for $300. It has been raining and snowing so still sitting in the wife's SUV. I hope it doesn't give me as much of a headache as my Hollywood Heat did...lol.[quoted image]

Nice, im currently renovating a playfield for a Goldwings (and fixing a matrix error), great game and hot music aswell!

2 weeks later
#3364 4 years ago

Anyone here know how many pages an original Volcano manual have? A friend of mine is asking since his manual seems to be missing pages since it only have 18 but some "parts lists" on page 15 lists more stuff then he have.

#3366 4 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

If it is the pdf file, it is the same as I have.
Your are missing the schematics, as do I.
When you look at page 15 you will see it goes up to page 40.
You can always use the generic schematics from other System-80 files.
If someone is willing to share the full version, please send me a copy too.

Dunno if its from a PDF since its a printed out version, but i kinda bet it is since it only goes to 18 LOL

1 week later
#3388 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Came across some NOS plastics for my Gold Wings that look amazing. Also drilled out the hole under the left plastic cloud and add GI. Definitely breathed some life into this machine![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yeah im planning to add those missing bulbs aswell, its such a dark playfield without them LOL

#3390 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

I used the tower LEDs in the GI and added 3 spot lights, major help. There are some places I would eventually like to use the post lights that Comet sells.

I was thinking of hiding some spotlights under the plastics somehow, but im just finishing repainting the playfield, yet to fix the matrix issue. So its abit to go before i get to light it up LOL
IMG_20200205_221227 (resized).jpgIMG_20200205_221227 (resized).jpg

#3392 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gold-wings-plastics-#post-5099599
I made these waterslide decals, might help with your touch ups

Aw man, now you show me this, LOL i already did the lettering.

also this isnt "touch-up", its a total repaint, this pupper was ground down to the wood.

#3396 4 years ago
Quoted from Diospinball:

Before and after images? Would like to see if you have them.
And I only played Gold Wings once, but I was surprised at how good it was. It was fun and unique. But, then again considering the designer that isn't too much of a shock.

I only have this one, i think its about a day into the repaint, so alot of the wood isnt showing anymore, like on the shields

IMG_20191102_132546 (resized).jpgIMG_20191102_132546 (resized).jpg
#3405 4 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

Question on setting a system 80 Black Hole to free play. I know of the jumper wire diode board solution, would it also work to solder one set of coin switch wires to the credit/start switch in the coin door? I’m rebuilding my coin door and was just wondering.

Or just get the updated ROM:

https://www.flipprojets.fr/Blackhole_EN.php

"The BLACK HOLE (model #668) Pinball that we own has been improved and has now new functions. The main amendment carried out is the SYSTEM 80A translation, with replacement PROM U2 and U3 by a new single EEPROM and the rewiring of the displays.

Features of our Black Hole update:

Talking US version with animated backglass.
Display on 7 digits.
FREEPLAY.
Legacy of improvements of the SYSTEM 80A:
Quickstart (equivalent to the FASTBOOT).
Improved test mode & bookeeping.
New configuration of the DIP (moneyers...).
Limitation of the high-scores (overflow protection).
Deleting of the service printer."

#3406 4 years ago
Quoted from Raff:

Use a flat metal paint scraper put it between the cabinet and the rail and slowly wedge it up and down next to the nails you should see the nails move when you get a few mm get a pair of pincers and pull the spiral nails out.
Raff

Yeah i do the same when coating siderails, works on all machines

3 weeks later
#3479 4 years ago

Huh, never knew this, is this still going on? i have a list of bros here in Europe needing this one, but the thrad havent been updated in years, neither have his blog been since 2016 either.

#3488 4 years ago
Quoted from SeymorGoldfarbJr:

He will respond within a day to pinmail. I have bought 2 boards in the past few months. He is still actively building and selling these.

Got a response from him, so now im gonna spread his info in Sweden, so other SYS80b badbros can get their stuff going aswell.

Anyway men, got my Hollywood Heat going again, it was a new ROM1 and resoldering on the piggybackboard that was needed, now its back to good old days again

Good tip for other bros in trouble with their SYS80b

2 weeks later
#3526 4 years ago
Quoted from Cherga:

I need to fix some wear on my Arena. I'm planning to try some waterslide decals. Does anyone happen to have a hi-res photo/scan of a nice Arena playfield? Thanks!

Sadly Gottliebs have barely any overlays or good scans around AFAIK, those that exists are done by nice people.

2 months later
#3716 3 years ago

Ok, i got this weird ROM problem, after i did some romchip juggling (to test MPU board from a Goldwings) my comrade managed to put int he ROM2 chip in backwards in my Hollywood Heat MPU, which we all know pops the chip dead, so i got the "Missing ROM2" message after booting HH up, and i figured i do a quick reburn a new ROM2 with a brand new chip, and now the "Missing ROM2" message is gone, but the game doesnt boot anymore, it lights up the backbox and a load of lamps on the playfield and also have a section of attractmode going (Extra ball and Bonus multiplier strips) but nothing more, even with the quick ON/OFF trick. did i burn the romchip wrong? faulty but brand new chip? is there some trick to burning Gottlieb roms? i used the modded "free credits" Roms you can get from flipprojets.fr and changed the dipswitches to match.

1 month later
#3848 3 years ago
Quoted from Cherga:

Anyone have a proven method for cleaning an 80b translite without causing damage?

Soap and water, nothing else.

1 month later
#3961 3 years ago

Ok guys, when you burn Gottlieb roms, what choice do you use? Im gonna burn a set of Gottlieb Monte Carlo roms for a friend on my GQ-4X romburner and i have a vague memory of having trouble getting my Hollywood Heat Roms to work right, since you got like:

2716(25V VPP)
2716A(21V VPP)
2716B(12.7V VPP)
27C16(25V VPP)
27C16A(21V VPP)
27C16B(12.7 VPP)

which one are you suppose to use when doing Gottlieb Sys80b roms? cant find any info on the net.

#3963 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

It depends on which EPROM chips you have. Can you post clear pictures of the EPROMs showing model numbers and the silicon die in the window?

Blank NEC D2716D 8423PX003, Japan made.

#3966 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

If they are genuine and not Chinese remarks then you need to select "2716(25V VPP)".
You should use an external power pack with the GQ-4X.
If the speed in the GQ-4X software is set to "+2" change it to "0" or "-1". 2716 chips need slow programming.

Dunno where they are from, he provided them for me.

Quoted from the9gman:

I just bought 5 of these from this guy and had absolutely no problem they were great. I have been experimenting with the code on my Raven and was able to burn and erase them no problems
ebay.com link » 5 St M2764a 2fi Sgs Thomson Uv Erasable Eprom 64k 8k X 8
needles to say it is what I thought you only get 5 letters with Raven in the start up display ....you can change it to Rambo but not predator
I find the 2764's a lot more reliable to burn for my machines the others give me issues and I have the gq4 x 4 programmer with an external power pack connected
plus I have a Monte Carlo and they work in that

2764? you can use two 2764's in Sys80b? IIRC prom1 is a 2764 and Prom 2 is a 2716, but its been some time since i last burned Gottlieb roms so i could be wrong.

#3968 3 years ago

Also i should ask about 2764 aswell, 2764 (25V vpp) there aswell? i was gonna reburn only prom 2, but i might aswell reburn both of them.

#3972 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Instead of using All/Generic Manufacturer settings, it's better if you select the actual chip manufacturer and the matching device model in the software so it can use the correct programming voltage for the specific chip.
So for the "NEC D2716D" chip you have, in the software select manufacturer "NEC" and chip device model "D2716".
No need to guess when the chip models are there and supported.
I don't think there are any 2764 with 25V programming. Most are 12.75V programming.

thanks, very useful info since i dont burn proms that often so i tend to forget stuff and have to look it up again LOL

1 month later
#4148 3 years ago

Ok, i need help here, im trying to burn new roms for a friend's Monte Carlo (yeah i only got to it today, been busy with life LOL), and Rom2 is done and went smoothly and checks out fine with GQ-4X burner, but Rom1 is giving me headache, i keep getting "Write failed, address=0x000000, Buffer= 0x4F, Device=0xff" with a brand new chip (ST M27C64A) and fresh roms (freeplay ones from Flippp).

What is going on? can two brand new chips from a pinball supplier be bad? or am i doing something wrong?

"d:\downloads\gottlieb montecarlo\mc rom\prom1_703.bin.
Speed = 4
ID check skipped
Writing... Buffer
Elapsed time: 18.98 seconds.
ID check skipped
Writing... Buffer
Elapsed time: 18.98 seconds.
Write failed, Address=0x000000, Buffer=0x4F Device=0xFF
Write failed "

is how it says.

#4150 3 years ago
Quoted from the9gman:

problems I've had .....hooked up the external power supply that helps......slow your speed down but usually when I have had a consistent write fail it was bad chips ....had three bad ones from one supplier .....they erased fine had all FF in their buffers but would not write ....ordered 5 new ones and they were perfect .....my guess you got bad chips

I have adapter on and i tried slowing down to 0 and even -1, but still write fails on brand new chips. So basically i threw away cash then...
im gonna ask the pinballshop to burn the rom for me in that case, gonna cost me abit extra but cheaper then to buy another 3 chips and take a chance.

#4153 3 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Very possible if they are from the same lot. There's counterfeit chips everywhere!! I only buy pulls, erase and reprogram them myself.

Sadly the originals from the game dont even read anymore, totally blank dead.

1 week later
#4166 3 years ago

Ok, im stumped bros, i burned two new roms, Rom1 and Rom2, for a Hollywood Heat that got one of its Roms turned the wrong way during a boardswap, and this is what i get:

https://streamable.com/ohotkm

Is it the Roms still, or is it the daughterboard? or bad motherboard? or what?

#4170 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The game does not boot.
Your need to replace the eprom that you had in the wroung way.
It's broken forever...

But i have done that, thats why i burned two new Roms, and it still dont boot.

#4172 3 years ago
Quoted from the9gman:

and you have no score display so my guess would be you need to resolder the daughter board but a word of wisdom here, its a PIA because in most cases the pins are big the holes and traces are small .....would highly recommend a chip quick kit, you can get it off ebay, and watch the videos on how to use it and you will be ahead of the game

Ugh, thats what i was afraid of, having to resolder that mofo.

#4175 3 years ago

Ive been using one of those electrical heated solder suckers for some years now and its pretty much shit, although a step better then the original solder sucker.

4 weeks later
#4309 3 years ago

Man i miss my Volcano so much

3 weeks later
#4377 3 years ago
Quoted from fireball2:

Just some somethin somethins from Uncle Pinball's recent Tim Arnold interview:
He really does have EVERY GOTTLIEB GAME. EVERY SINGLE ONE. EVER MADE.
He won't talk fave machines because then there would be haters.
The new building looks like Scrooge McDuck's money pit!
https://unclepinball.buzzsprout.com/

Even the prototypes? man, thats like, the dream for me LOL

Btw, was there someone who was making Gottlieb SYS80b MPU's? i remember vaguely reading about it but i cannot remember who it was and if they where ever finished.

3 weeks later
#4444 3 years ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Me too! I 2-part auto cleared mine...I think the gold I used I had mixed at the auto paint store.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Man, i handpainted that part on a bro's Goldwings, never thought about doing that LOL

3 weeks later
#4465 3 years ago
Quoted from Carmoney:

Anybody know what "CYS" is supposed to stand for on the Arena machine stand-up targets?
#Arena

Always kinda wondered about that aswell

#4485 3 years ago

Alright, me and my bro had a "boi-night" last night and had some MPU fixin', resoldered 3 daughterboards and we had 3 different results, 1 game got back in the game working nicely (Hollywood Heat), one game (Goldwings) got "Tilt Switch Closed" error and the third game (Monte Carlo) got..nothing much really.

Hollywood Heat suffered from boot error but is now fixed.

Goldwings played nicely, but had Matrix error but now after got this Tilt Switch Closed error.

Monte Carlo was not booting at all before except some lights on the playfield so this resoldering was a test to see if anything better happened, and well not much happened, except the middle spinwheel started working full on.

So anyone here got any leads?

ive brought along 2 videos of Goldwings and Monte Carlo for you to enjoy and ponder over.

https://streamable.com/1mhtoq
Goldwings

https://streamable.com/29q0cg
Monte Carlo

#4487 3 years ago
Quoted from the9gman:

seen this one before happened to me and was due to daughterboard connection..........question did you fully remove the daughter board and solder all the connections underneath it ?

Yep, all three had full-on resoldering on everything remotely looking like a solder point, and i even contact checked with a meter afterwards before slapping them back in the game.

1 week later
#4491 3 years ago

So no one got any clues to the "Tilt Switch closed" thing? i done the ground mods and resoldered everything on the daughterboard and connect-tested it all, pin by pin, and everything had a solid line as it seemed. Could it be a chip even though i kinda checked them all for shorts? i have really no clue anymore what to check.

#4494 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

While not having any personal insight this RGP post says Z14 is the culprit. Might be worth pulling and swapping it. https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/m9oTyqlB7Rw

Hmm, i did socket those chips before, maybe i made a dodo somewhere during soldering.

Quoted from Topher5000:

I got that error a while back & since I didn't know what I was doing, I called a tech & he yanked the wire from the connector at the board. I checked & there's continuity between the bob & the bracket, so I guess there's a short somewhere.

which wire was that?

#4495 3 years ago

Ok so i just went back tot he MPU and desoldered both Z14 and Z13 sockets fully out and then went over every line and continuity tested every bit, and then resoldered in both sockets and changed the N7400 chips to two new ones, never used, continuity checked them hole per hole, and then put everything back in again just now, and well the intro music started playing but it still displays "****TILT SWITCH CLOSED****", so it isnt my soldering or the Z13-Z14 chips atleast. Which could mean U4 is blown, i guess?

#4497 3 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

If you know anyone with a QuickScan 80 it will check the U4 without removing it. If you are near Northern California I could run it for you

Im in northern Sweden, so sadly we a few miles apart, but if you treat me to a airplane ticket i could stop by of course LOL
i found a guide though on how to test the chips with a multimeter set on diode-check, gonna try that tomorrow.

#4499 2 years ago

its a Goldwings, dunno if its in that list of games that must have the modification? werent those just the last 4 games?

#4503 2 years ago
Quoted from Cheddar:

<blockquote cite="#6210</blockq

It does look like the last 4 games. If the game expects a closed switch and it is closed (does this happen with the switch connector removed?). Is it possible there is a tilt closed somewhere?

Thing is though that this problem showed up AFTER i switched out Z14 and Z13 and resoldered the daughterboard, before that the game worked but had Switch matrix problems on the playfield, which was the main reason i did the chip switch/socketing job in the first place. And i have gone back and checked all the solder jobs i did and nothing seems to be wrong or out of continuity or connected to something it shouldnt be, i followed all the lines by looking at them udner a lamp and checked with multimeter, and the tilt switch where never touched at all.

i checked the ones i know a Gottlieb sys80b have, and all of those are in the open position, and have been all the time, could it be that one of them is supposed to be closed though?

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