Hi All,

I have become the proud owner of a Charlie's Angels, It hasn't been looked after to well but the lady owner has had it from new. I even have the bill of sale with the paper work.

Just started working on her, upgrading the caps and so on on the power supply board and so on.

I have read through this thread and seen that German-Pinball said about a fuse mod to do for the small transformer, he put up a grafic on page 24 on where and what fuses to use. (This is the pic of the fuse mod he put up)

So what I would like to know please is does anybody know what the 2 fuses are rated at on the return from the transformer are. These are a +8v and a +4v.

I live in France so mains power is 210-240v 50herzts if this makes a difference.

Thank you for any help on this.

small transformer fuse mod (resized).jpg

Hi All,

Need some help....

Tested the power supply at the plug A2 J1 about a week ago, all voltages were spot on.

After rebuilding the power supply board with new caps (5 of) both trim pots, both CR1 & CR2 with higher amp rated. CR3, CR4, CR6, CR7, CR8 and CR9 all IN4004. Plugged it to the power supply board to test and set up voltages.

everything was ok except the 60v and 42v were not there.

So tested the fuse in the cabinet OK, tested at the transformer nothing at all, tested the transformer for resistance and got no resistance. No voltage at all from the 2 tags on the back of the transformer lug 8 & 9 when turned on.

Now this bit is the strange bit, left it for 1 hour and now I have 32volts from the 2 lugs.

Any help much appreciated

Hi All,

Is it ok to have 72Vac coming from the small transformer to the power supply board, will the power supply board be able to handle the 3 extra volts or do I need to drop the voltage slightly so it's 69Vac.

Any help would be great.

Sorry Mad_Dog_Coin_Op,

Yes it is it's for Charlie's Angels.

Tested both of the tags on the back of the transformer with it unplugged from the power supply board. I think I read somewhere about 72vac, so I thought I would ask first before I plugged it back in. As they say better to be safe than sorry after rebuilding the power supply.

HELP please,

Small transformer problem?....maybe....

I have 2 x 11.5vac 2 x 14vac and 2 x69vac at the A2J1, but when I plug it into the psb the 5v and -12 volts are fine. Its the 60v and 42v which is the problem. The 60v is reading 26v's and no volts at all from the 42v's at A2P3.

I have tested the 69v's on the psb, both feeds get as far as the 1N4004 diodes (CR6, CR7, CR8 and CR9). No feed out of CR7 and CR9.

I poped the fuse for the 69v in the cabinet and tested the amperage using the 2 fuse holder lugs and only got 0.089a with it plugged into the psb with nothing plugged into the psb.

Any help appreciated.

Forgot to mention I have rebuilt the psb so the diodes at CR6 to CR9 are new and I have tested them and all are ok

Cheers for the replies.

Just an update before I found this fault:

I have followed the upgrade/change guide on PinWiki and changed all of the parts they mention with the same or upgraded parts where mentioned. 2 new trim pots as rated by PinWiki. I have done all the ground mods, even the ones across the driver board.

So the psb is ok as the 69v only gets as far as the first 4 1N4004 diodes, which is strange its like the power just stops there.

I think it is the small transformer which is weird, as its like it has no current just the 69-70volts. As soon as it has to do some work like going through the diodes it dies. Just like a car with a bad battery, it shows over 12v's on dmm but when you try to start it it just clicks the solenoid and the motor doesn't spin to turn the engine. As there is no amperage from the battery.

Thank you for the your help.

Ok across Cap C6 the as in the picture above I have 90.0/90.1vdc

Have double checked all the diodes and they are correct to the print on the board

Oh for got to say that yes I have used the earth on Cap C6 to test the 69v and 42v, as I have done a lot of reading about how to replace and rebuild and test this board.

Ok German-Pin,

Thank you for all your help with this.

Here are the voltages up to when R13 went petong and glowed until the fuse (mod of yours that i followed to the T up to the 2 fuses that are not rated on your drawings) blew in the cabinet on the 3/4 for the 69v. If I try to carry on with the testing after changing the fuse, R13 starts to glow again until the fuse blows again.

What type/ohms is that R13 resistor please so I can repair to carry on with the test. As on the schematics it just says 3311.

Here is what I got in vdc up to that point:
1, Just after CR7/CR9 was 94v
2, Just after R10/R11 was 14.9v
3, At the collector leg on Q4 was 0.0v
4, At the Base leg on Q4 was 0.0v

When I started testing the voltage at Q2, that was when R13 glowed until the cabinet fuse blew. I think I may have touched more than I should of with the dmm at the same time (muppet) sorry doh.

thank you Cactusjack,

Luckily I was just testing the psb so had everything unplugged after it.

Will change R13 with a 33ohm what watt is it rated at please.

Will take the board out and test to make sure all is ok or not and replace.

Here are the pics:

IMG_3300 (resized).jpg

IMG_3299 (resized).jpg

IMG_3298 (resized).jpg

IMG_3297 (resized).jpg

Yes I know I was going to clean that mess up, I was just testing and than come across this problem lol.

I have removed the earth wire mod and have a open circuit on the dmm for the To22o transistors. If I connect the earth mod Q2 still open but LIC1 reads 564ohms, if that helps.

Yes all screws including Q1 are well insulated from the L-plate heat shrink bracket , I tested everywhere poss to make sure their was no grounding on the plate before I put it back in place, only when you put the earth mod back on do you read any ohms and thats just at LIC1.

Reading from pin1 60v and pin5 gnd is open

Would a 2w 10K do for both R10 and R11 or is that to much wattage?

As I am on ebay right now ordering most of the parts required just in case. As I found out I have no 33ohm 1/2 resistors doh.

Thats on the body of LIC1

Thank you for that.

Ok just ordered all the parts, will be back when here and fitted.

thank yo again for all your help

Will do, trouble is I live in France where I think they use donkeys for the postal system, and this month has 5 or 6 bank holidays to.

So hopefully should be end of next week and will be back with a update

Hi All,

I have all the parts now for the power supply on this Charlie's Angels.

I have replaced, some twice after bench testing due to the readings i'm getting.

1, All the diodes
2, All the Zener diodes, twice after testing
3, Q2 TIP31C, twice after testing
4, Q3 2N3416, twice after testing
5, Q4 MPSA43, twice after testing
6, All the resistors, same resistance but 1 or 2 watt, twice after testing
7, C9 and C10 Tantalum capacitors, twice after testing

All the other capacitors were replaced before the fault of no voltage.
Both Trim pots were replaced at the same time.

Here is the voltage readings as per the test points on the 60v supply, as to German-Pinball pic on the last page.

I have 32vac on both of the wires in A2J1 using the earth in the same socket
I have 72vac on where it comes onto the board between the diodes.
I have 98.1vdc at C on TIP31C
I have 96.5vdc after R10 and R11
I have 60.7vdc at C on Q4 MPSA43
I have 0.4vdc at B on Q4 MPSA43
I have 88.2vdc at B on Q3 2N3416
I have 96.4vdc at E on Q2 TIP31C
I have 12.5vdc at the earth on C10
I have 95.1vdc at A2P3 for the 60vdc
I have 76.4vdc at A2P3 for the 42vdc

Any help would be great, as this is getting stupid (before no voltage now way to much) lol

Hi German-Pinball,

Yes the + on CR10 is next to the plus on the board just under C8

CR9 and CR10 are 1uf 50v Tantalum capacitors as ref pinwiki

Just checked R14 and I have 84vdc on the plus side

Also German-Pinball,

I read that C8 + sign on the board was on the wrong side, so C8 is back to front according to the board.

Ok All,

Update on the power supply over voltage problem.

Heres what I have done to try and sort this power supply problem:

1, cut the Collector leg on Q2 (TIP31C) and made a board with 3 resistors (2.7k ceramic, 2 x 150ohms) on it. which was soldered in line after the 4 1N4004 diodes to Q2 TIP31C, which brought the voltage down to 60vdc and 42vdc at A2P3. I then plugged A2J3 in with a dmm on the 60vdc just to check as I turned the pinball on. The voltage dropped to 32vdc and the display was very dim.

2, I then took the 3 resistors of the board I had made and put just 1 resistor on it which was 560ohms and with the dmm still reading the 60vdc reading I turned the pinball on again. I now have 58.5vdc at A2J3 and the displays are ok.

Any help on why this is happening would be great

Hi All,

Ok have modified the power supply for the moment just to test (not ideal but not for game use).

So after putting a 3.6v nicad battery pack down out the way. I started the game and now have no sound at all and I think its called the out hole, ie when the ball goes down pass the flippers. It just sits there instead of being knocked out for your second ball, I have tested the switch and tested again at A1J7 where it plugs into the CPU and the switch works when the ball is on it. Also if I turn that switch on and off the game resets the drop targets.

Any help please. or ideas.

Oh forgot to mention I have reset the first 10 memory items.

And the right credit display is showing 70 if this has anything to do with it.

Just noted that I can't start a game with the credit button

Quick update.....

If I earth out the tab on Q32 the outhole coil flicks the ball into play, also if there are 4 players playing this moves it onto the next player when your turn is over.

Also I can make the sound board work by touching the tabs on Q26, Q27 and Q28

Quick update with the fault on the sounds and out hole...... Z6 SN7417N chip is faulty.

Still working on the over voltage from the 60v side of the power supply.....

Need help please!!!!

Changed both Z6 and Z7 (SN7417N), tested to make sure no link to the pins next to each other after installing them.

Now when I power both the 3/4 fuses blow at the small transformer (fuse mod) which in turn gives the -12v and Z6 now has 0 resistance between pin 14 (+5v) and pin 8 (-12v)

Any ideas would be greatly helpful.

Think I may have found the problem....

I am using Texas SN7417N chips which after some reading, tap 1 is left of the indent on the top of the chip. When I removed the old chips this indent was at the bottom of the board near the J5 connector, but when I tested that chip the 5v was top right of the chip. So this would mean that tap 1 and 14 are at the top looking at the board and not the bottom as to the indent from the original chip.....

Is this correct or am I going nuts.....If it is then I have put the chip in around the wrong way.

Hi German-Pinball,

Thank you for that, just made things a little harder lol.

Thats how I put it in, bottom right pin1 so why does it keep shorting across pin 1 and 7 ,reading 3.4ohms across pin1 and pin7 on a new 7417, and 0 resistance after it powers up and then blows the 3/4a fuse for the 14vac supply.

When I tested the original 7417 the 5v was top right and where pin 1 is bottom right I was reading -12v, that's when going through the tests on pinrepair for the 7417 that I found it was dud as the out hole would only fire on one of the pair of pins for it with 5volts.

Will take the 7417 out and test the feeds to the Z6 again with power to test properly and let you know what readings I find.

Hi Cactusjack,

Off of ebay they do have the logo on them but no name just a load some part number so not sure you could be right, Probable some dodgy chines copy as I didn't have this problem until I fitted the 2 of them. So I have just ordered some from RS Components, big company in France for all sorts of electrical parts and components.

Ok got some readings with the chip (SN7417N) at Z6 removed and power on. Also the fuses don't blow which is a good sign

I have -12.14v at pin hole 1, 3, 5, 9, 11 and 13.

I have +5.05v at pin hole 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14

I have earth at pin hole 7

Is this right, as looking at the schematics the feeds are right but the -12v has 6.8K resistors before Z6 chip holes and the +5v has 620 resistors before the pin holes. So shouldn't this affect the voltage readings.

Check to make sure you have the 2 14vac at plug A2J1, these 2 are what turn into the -12v. Has the pinball had the fuse mod done for the small transformer, if so they may have gone.

Hi CactusJack,

Can you confirm that the readings in voltages I'm getting from the pin holes at Z6 are right or wrong?

Thank you very much for that, just need to wait for the fuses so I can test again.

Hi All,

Need some help please.

When playing Charlie's Angels, at the top of the pf is lit up 4 lights above 4 channels with roll over switches in each channel. Each light has a letter on it, which is C H I C.

So my question is when I roll over either switch for the middle 2 letters it just puts the letter, light out above that switch, but if I roll over the switch below one of the C's it puts both of the C's out. Is this correct as I can't remember as its been that long since I played it. Any help would be great.

Quick update on the power supply over voltage and the Z6 chip on the CPU blowing:

Got a broken power supply off of ebay and rebuilt and everything is spot on....Weird that.

Blowing Z6 chip turned out to be the resistor for the 5v feed to it....some one had put a 6.8ohm resistor instead of a 6.8k resistor...

Thank you for the input to try and sort these 2 faults out.