Quoted from the9gman:

will be interesting to see what you get into when you fix that. My first guess would be if the thing has a daughter board on game prom 1 usually always find bad or cracked solder joints on the prom chip socket. seeing as that was one of the first 80B systems I would guess that the caps on the display have degraded there are two 10uf caps and one 470uf cap that get weak. On my last unit the 10uf caps read 1pf and the 470 dropped to 360uf. Not to mention the normal battery corrosion stuff

Quoted from gdonovan:

Almost looks like a street level game Gottlieb was selling 1990-1991.
Simple game with no ramps and basic mechs to reduce downtown for pins in more remote locations. Not as expensive as other games of the timeframe or as prone to downtime.

Quoted from MarAlb:

I wouldn't use the heatsink as a GND. The metal case from the LM338K regulator at the heatsink is connected to 5V. It is isolated from the heatsink with a thin mica shim. You are creating a potential short circuit between 5V and GND when connecting the heatsink to GND. It is safer to run GND wires to the yellow strap in the head as you suggested before.

Quoted from stumptown:

Working on a Triple Play, and have been getting it more and more reliable but still dogged by random resets... When they happen the displays fill with asterisks (but no TILT like I see when I trigger the slam and tilt switches so I don't think it's a problem with those), and the game drops back to game over mode.
It has an aftermarket MPU so that probably rules out half the causes. I've also completed replaced the contacts everywhere in the backbox harness, and replaced everything except the connector bodies for the inter-board harness. 5V power supply seems stable to me and is sitting at 5.1V. Did the ground mod down in the main cab and all of the grounds are bolted right to the power block frame. Replaced all of the contacts in the Molex connectors going up to the playfield and backbox from there too. I'm also going to do the ground chaining between the backbox boards, and replace that filter cap on the main power block.
The resets seem to happen mostly when flipping, particularly the left flipper... So I'm going to check the diodes on the switches. This is the only Gottlieb 80B I've worked on but am I right in assuming there should be capacitors on both the cabinet switches and EOS switches like you'd find on other manufacturers' pins? From looking at parts diagrams they seem like they're called for. They're absent on this pin, which doesn't surprise me given some of the other janky bullshit I'm finding. From reading back in older threads, and from working on other pins with similar issues, those missing caps seem likely to be part of the problem here.
Am I on the right track here? Any suggestions from experience as to other things to check?

Quoted from northvibe:

Went to work on my friends Roller disco. Rottendog driver board and the outhole kicker was staying locked.... rotten dog uses the 13N10L transistors, I don't have any on hand, and I'm assuming I'll have to replace with the same, no sub?
I'll replace the coil diode (1N4004) and transistor at the same time.

Quoted from Pinballemporium:

I just picked up a load of parts from a former pinball tech that worked for a local distributor. There were about 15-20 Gottlieb system 80 boards/displays which he had repaired on the shelf ready to swap. Trying to gauge a value on sound boards, driver boards, power supplies/displays. All are very clean. Just a sample, I have multiples of each. Thanks for the help.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Luzur:

its a Goldwings, dunno if its in that list of games that must have the modification? werent those just the last 4 games?