(Topic ID: 73213)

Home for the Gottlieb SYS1-SYS80B guys, Yep it's a club :)

By Gerry

10 years ago


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  • 651 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Sammer
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Post #5634 Gold Wings Settings page Posted by mbaumle (1 year ago)

Post #5771 Arena settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)

Post #5801 Robowar settings page Posted by BorgDog (1 year ago)


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#4730 2 years ago

Just joined the club with a Joker Poker project just over a week ago. After a bit of work, I was able to get the game booted and running. At the time, the knocker coil was clipped off and transistor Q25 looked like it has some work done to it. After cleaning the knocker, I decided to reconnect it to the game and ran coil test. Well, Q25 blew, and when pulling off the driver board, pulled a wire out of the pin, so I have to get new pins to replace it.

While I'm waiting for new pins, can anyone hazard a guess as to why Q25 blew? I replaced it once with a TIP102 as suggested by pinrepair, but it blew again, and also all the coils locked up and I turned it off before it got a chance to boot, so I don't know if it will boot correctly. This second time around, I replaced both the diode on the coil and Q25 again with a new TIP102. Before I try to boot it up again, is there anything else I should be looking for? What would cause all the coils to lock?

It has a Rottendog PS, Ni-Wumpf MPU (older version), and a stock Driver board, ground mods done. The game had the interconnect replaced, I believe with the diodes inline, and has been repinned from what I can tell.

1 year later
#5887 1 year ago

Looks like a really interesting game! Thank you for sharing! I would also like to see it in action.

#5891 1 year ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Hey everyone, looking for opinions on my totem project. Thinking about putting down Mylar (after waxing) over the inserts to prevent further wear. It’s such pretty artwork! Thoughts?
[quoted image]

It won't get nearly enough play in the home environment where you'll see wear. Use clean balls and clean and wax regularly and you'll be golden.

2 weeks later
#5909 1 year ago

Would anyone be able to offer a reasonable explanation as to why it seems as though any work done to my game (TX Sector) would cause seemingly random coils to lock on or cause a fuse to blow?

Got the game working 100% a couple of weeks ago and enjoyed playing it. Decided to replace the drop targets and give it a clean. Turn it on and a coil locks up (this one locked on when I got the game and consequently resolved). I decided to just try to replace the diode, and now when I turn it on, it blows the fuse that powers the 4 saucer solenoids. I tried to replace the fuse, and it blows again...so now I'm out of fuses the coil locking on has happened 2x now (different coils) when i did some other unrelated work (both times resolved) and now this.

Going to make up a 1A circuit breaker while I troubleshoot this and wait for more fuses to arrive. I haven't checkednth3 schematics yet but presume that the coils lit on the board coincide with the 4 saucers.

Also has a Swemmer MPU.
20230114_214325 (resized).jpg20230114_214325 (resized).jpg

#5913 1 year ago
Quoted from Jkush18:

I had a bad rom in the brand new swemmer board at U5. Might be worth checking out. I wasted a lot of troubleshooting time when all it was was the bad rom on the mpu. Just didn’t occur to me a new board could have faults.

How do I troubleshoot if it's a bad rom?

Quoted from sparky672:

Bad grounds and poor connections can cause coils to lock on. Once locked, the current draw will blow a fuse, hopefully. Otherwise, without fuse protection, the current draw can burn down the coil.
Installing new boards does not fix the bad, dirty, or broken pins inside the connectors. Focus on the last coil that locked up, find it on the schematic, and trace the wires through all the connectors while doing a thorough inspection of each connection.

It looks like one of the previous owners did all pf the ground mods. There is some not-quite-the-best lighting wiring (pop bumpers) but it should be good enough not to be related.

What do I need to refresh the edge connectors? This is my first 80b so kinda new to the whole system.

#5916 1 year ago
Quoted from sparky672:

Everything is Molex. I stuck with everything in the 18-24 AWG wire gauge size and had good luck. The Molex website is full of pictures and specs when you need to see what's what, even the obsolete are maintained there.
https://www.molex.com/molex/home
----
The single sided pins are still obtainable through various sources... including eBay, Amazon, etc. Just a matter of Googleing the Molex part number. The originals are the "punch-down" style. These can be replaced with crimp-on style. The crimp-on style pins fit perfectly the same into the punch-down style plastic housings.
Single Sided Edge Connectors (KK series 2478, KK 0.156”)
Molex 08-52-0072 (18-24 AWG)
Molex 08-52-0071 - same but sold on strips
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0008520072
----
The double sided pins have been obsolete for years and very expensive if you can find new old stock for sale. They are only used in the MPU to Driver harness. Somebody on eBay is producing and selling a knock-off pins. Otherwise, Docent Electronics is selling wires with the pins crimped on for the double-sided connectors. Pricy but easy to just change out these wires.
Double Sided Edge Connector (KK series 4366, KK 0.156”) - MPU/Driver (Qty 66)
Molex 08-03-0304 (18-24 AWG) - OBSOLETE - Docent Electronics kit of 33 replacement wires/pins
Molex 08-03-0303 same but sold on strips - OBSOLETE - Docent Electronics kit of 33 replacement wires/pins
Check eBay for the clone knockoff replacement (equipment99.com)
https://www.molex.com/molex/products/part-detail/crimp_terminals/0008030304
----
You will need a pin extractor tool. It's like a very small screwdriver you shove into the plastic housing to release the tab and pull out the wire. You could make one. Others claim a safety pin works.
----
You will need a crimper for Molex pins. It's dual action to crimp into wire on the end while also crimping into the insulation farther up. Molex crimpers are expensive but Amazon has some "good-enough" knock-offs.
I got this one, but you will need to practice to get a feel for which size die corresponds to your pin/wire combination.
amazon.com link »
----
Also refer to Pinwiki:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Gottlieb_System_80#Connectors.2C_Connectors.2C_Connectors

Thanks for the comprehensive rundown! I have changed connectors and header pins on my Ballys, so familiar with all that is involved with that. Just wasnt sure how to tackle the edge connectors, but it seems like I might have some of the parts already, at least for the single edge. For the double edge...well that just really sucks!

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