UGG! Put a chime box in instead. Or: Pascal's board has the tone generators built in and then you can get back some of the cost by selling your working CPU board!

If Steve at PBR has hardware, then it probably came from the Gottlieb / Premier assests He would be the one to ask if no one else chimes in.

Very common problem when we were operating Gottlieb pins back in the day.

Like you did, rotate the switch stack a little to use a new spot on the EOS leaf. Put a dab of super lube on the spot to reduce friction/wear.

You can always add a blank leaf blade to you existing switch stack to get a fresh surface.

Both bolts lock the collar to the flipper shaft. Both must be loosened to do either adjustment (hieght or rotation). You will also find the set screws have made a diver in the flipper shaft and they might keep slipping back into the old position. If this happens, swap right and left flippers for a fresh spot on the shaft.

That should have read divot, not diver.

How was the 4th instalment if Bourne?

Also keep In mind there was one set of Rockwell chips that were a little faster for bonus collect since once they went to electronic sounds, they could send sounds faster.

Yes. Had a Hollywood Heat that would occasionally lock up during play (display go blank, etc. etc.). A Piggy Deux was purchased, EPROM transferred, and board installed. Problems went away. I also made my own harness to keep the Watchdog Reset board attached to the system.

The Tilt relay will disconnect power to all the solenoids you mentioned as well as turn off playfield GI. So it sounds like that relay is stuck on.

There is a fix to add a pull up (or is it down?) Resistor to insure the transistors turn off when they should. I am guessing that what you are seeing.

No, the resistors are added only to insure the transistors go completely off when they are supposed to be off. If they are not turning on, that is a completely different problem.

SS games don't work like an EM. A stuck score switch isn't going to keep a bell chime coil energized. The computer is in between and in control. It will only read the switch once until it opens​ and closes again. And it will only energize the chime coil for a set amount of time.

Instead, I would suspect a bad, broken, or poorly soldered diode across the chime coil. For $0.09, just clip and replace. If it continues to take out the drive transistor, then I would suspect the coil.

This is assuming you have properly serviced (cleaned, repinned) the interconnect cable and done the added wires and ground mods to insure the signals going to the driver board are correct.

Those white push buttons are notorious for not making contact. Did you try a jumper across the lugs of the test Switch?

Am I missing something here? Or did you neglect to plug in the Playfield and Cabinet Connectors into your new board? They were the two harnesses shown in the first picture with the blue replacement Edge Connectors.

From BorgDog's posting above of the switch wiring, you can remove A6J1 and use a jumper to jumper A6J1 pin 1 to pin 2 on the PCB to act as the TEST switch and see if that works.

OOPS! Sorry about that. It is connector A1-J6 in your photo. That is the switch matrix and slam/tilt switch inputs to the cabinet. The larger one above (A1-J7) are the switch connections to the Playfield.

So, yes, there are connectors in between the edge connectors and final destinations.

And, as you may know, Gottlieb diagrams are typically not posted on the Internet so it may have to wait until I get home to look at a manual unless someone else chimes in.

Thank you, BorgDog!!!!!

So, you will need to jumper A1J6 Pin 3 to A1J6 Pin 8. This will jumper Switch Strobe 0 to Switch Return 0.

I can't remember if the Pascal Janin board has a dip-shunt jumper (one of those little shorting blocks that straddles two pins) to add the Slam Switch Jumper. I am thinking it does since your photo of the board seem to show one in the White Silk Screening of the board down by that connector. I also don't know what a Pascal Janin board will do if the SLAM switch input is not grounded. It might not go into test if it is showing an SLAM switch error.

Okay, just confirmed in the Pascal manual that there is a place to jumper the slam switch to ground (normal state of the switch - Normally Closed) to bypass the lack of the connector being plugged in. Page 20 of this manual:

http://www.flippp.fr/media/manual/manual_PI-1X4_en.pdf

And it will throw up a Slam Switch error if it doesn't see that input grounded.

Looks like your 3 prong plug was wired wrong. To my knowledge, the ribbed wire on flat cords is normally neutral (white wire). If you bring up a photo of a duplex outlet, you will see the wide blade goes to the silver screws (white, neutral wire) and the narrow blade goes to the brass screw (black wire, hot or line).

Inside the game, the smooth side of the wire (narrow blade), should go to the line fuse and power switch side of the line filter.

Yes, when the ground potential between the two boards gets too far out of alignment.

Bad connection from MPU to Driver board transistor causes one of the drive transistors to turn on a little, but not enough to actually move coil plunger. Therefore, player/owner may not notice anything is happening,..... yet.....

Coil begins to heat up.

Windings begin to burn enamel off wires and windings begin to short out.

Shorted windings on coil cause transistor to overheat and short out.

OR:

Transistor, since it is not fully turned on, creates a ton of internal heat.

Transistor can't take the heat, and shorts out.

Shorted transistor burns up coil.

Shorted coil and transistor blow fuse.

This is why the ground mods are so important on any Gottlieb System 1/80 game. All devices need to be at the same ground potential to insure off means OFF. Bad connections either through Interconnect harness, MPU power input connector, Power Regulator board connectors, or even the individual grounds to the various clusters of drive transistors can mean sure disaster. By common-izing all these grounds together, it minimizes the potential for this kind of failure.

As operators, we used to do that for certain games (like Eight Ball Deluxe) to drop the voltage a little. For a period, the Feature lamp power coming out of the Bally Transformers was a little high and was shortening the life of the incandescent lamps. By adding the bridge (but not exactly wired like that) you put two diodes in series with 2 of those in parallel which would drop the voltage about 1.4V.

However, if your games have LEDs being used for playfield GI, adding the bridge would rectify the AC into pulsating DC and cheap LEDs could be used. Unfortunately, they would be flashing at a rate of 60Hz (or 50 depending on your country) which would have a horrible strobing effect on the ball in motion.

BTW, I have never seen that done on a Gottlieb. So it would appear, your games both came from the same operator.

Any idea if they might be re-import games?

Check 5 volts when cold, then again when it starts to fail. See if it's dropping.

As was suggested, photos of the underside (solder) of the connector, top side male pins (connector unplugged), and the crimp pins above of the connector in question might shed some light on what's going on.

Another problem area it could be on an original System 80 power supply is at the TO-3 pass transistor. Both the lead furrels (brass tubes for the two leads) and the threaded parts may not be well soldered to the PCB traces. This can cause fluctuations in 5v.

Of course, you have to dismount the whole thing to check them.

No offense intended from this end either but.....

I have been a bench tech for over 35 years and I have learned to trust only my own eyes when it comes to some things. Solder joints being one of them. I have received plenty of boards where people have "reflowed" the solder only to find there were still issues related to the solder quality. If you had said you had replaced the male pin connector too, then I would be less likely to want to see the solder joints. But I have seen some nasty pin quality out of Gottlieb connectors (system 1 and system 80's) even where the plating has dis-bonded from the actual pin metal.

The issue you seem to be experiencing (power loss which changes by flexing some part or portion of a board) appears to be one of the following:

Bad Solder Joint (solder not bonding to a pin or component lead)
Broken trace (small fracture typically near a connector pin island)
Bad connection from Female Crimp Pin to Male Pin surface.
Bad connection from wire strands to crimp pin contacts (many times I see people crimp a pin over the insulation at both places).
Bad surface on Voltage Adjustment pot (you state this has already been replaced).
(Extreme but I have seen it before) Bad connection to component lead INSIDE electrolytic capacitor.

Also another note: You state good continuity on all points 5V. By continuity do you mean Continuity "beep" of your meter? Or actually reading a ohm value and interpreting how low that ohm value actually is? On many meters, Continuity "BEEP" happens for anything under 200 or even 300 ohms depending on the meter. Anything higher than a dead short (same you get when touching your meter leads together) can be suspect when having to carry a lot of current as the 5V regulator circuit does.

Just trying to help figure out where the problem lies......

Yes, pretty straight forward. A system 1 game uses the Shark Fin style Lock down bar but essentially, the mechanism is exactly the same as the old PEG style bar. Same piece of metal must slide just below the assembly to clear the fins. And that's the problem, those two parts of metal lie flat against each other and can very easily get rusted together if lots of moisture finds its way in there.

The part you are grabbing should pivot down and to the left. At the end of it, there is a part that sticks up and engages with the slide.

If it powers up blank, has the normal delay, and THEN displays 000000, all the spider chips are probably good so then there will be resale value in the old board even though it's eaten up.

If it goes straight to 000000 instantly, there are probably other chip issues.

Pascal's All in ones are great, I even own one. Good for troubleshooting and great when all the boards are missing. But if the only thing bad is the MPU, a lower cost Niwupf might be a better choice.

Wow! 15 Spirits? Did you hold a Spirit tournament?

IF you are repining the male header pins on a Power Supply connector, then the Trifuricons are the way to go.

By the way, you can make a decent pin extractor for the PC edge connector by hammering flat a Paper Clip and then grinding to fit the slot. Cheap and easy and if you bend it, just make another. Others have used small Jeweler's Screw drivers that fit the need.

The reason (I think) a manufacturer wouldn't do it is because the second rubber ends up rather low on the center of the ball and causes the ball to launch in the air.

I would start by ordering all new plungers and nylon coil sleeves. They will include the nylon link block where you may have some wear. First make sure you can slide the old sleeves out, otherwise, you will need a new coil too.

New coil stops won't effect the strength of the hit but may help quiet buzzing flippers with the new plungers (new plunger end may not seat well on to old coil stop).

I would say that that style Gottlieb flipper assy is traditionally weaker than the Bally.

Get yourself an ignition file (or flat needle file) and try to see if you can resurface the contacts on the EOS switches. You want clean, flat, unpitted surfaces. They are tungsten so it may be necessary to use a dremel grinding wheel (either the fiber one or stone, don't bother with a sanding drum, it will strip it instantly) to grind them flat. If there is no material left, you will need to replace them with new switches.

The new plungers will come without the peg sticking out. If your old nylon block has them, later, Gottlieb eliminated them as they were a cause for some drag.

If you are exclusively a "Pinhead", then probably not. But if you are also a "Vidiot" or know someone that is, you can scavenge the pins from a Black style (Amp brand I believe) JAMMA video game harness which uses the same types of pins. Just like the Gottlieb connector, the wires are crimped to the pins inside the connector. Not the Blue style with solder tabs where the wire has been soldered to the outside lug and covered with heat shrink. You would need to extract 4 of them and splice the wires together. The pins are easily extracted if you make an extraction tool by opening up a small paper clip, and hammering flat the end to form a very small rectangular stick. Then slide it in that small slot along the edge of the pin (from the PCB edge side) and you should be able to pull the pin and wire out the back.

But only the black ones where the crimp pins slide in. Most of the cheap stuff on eBay are the solder lug style and won't work (in both black and blue, so beware).

The old Classic Happ harnesses were made this way.

ebay.com link: NEW HAPP JAMMA wire harness for video gaming American stock

ebay.com link: JAMMA HARNESS BEST ON E BAY NOT CHINA IMPORT GOLD CRIMP PINS QUALITY ITEM

Good find. I thought everyone was finally out of the individual crimp pins.

Otherwise, the Kicking target should have a switch that armature hits when it goes to end of travel. This is the "scoring" switch that goes back to the CPU. Hand activate the switch and see if the sound turns off because you are hitting the switch and not energizing the coil.

Not seeing a photo of your original, Pittman Motors makes a number of 24v in line gearbox motors with all sorts of gear ratios. Plenty of surplus to search on Ebay

This one is a little slower. Hurst makes timing motors in that style.

ebay.com link: Hurst Emerson 30 RPM Model AB SP 2687 24V 60HZ 5W 10MFD 2301

If just closing the scoring switch causes the sounds to stop (no coils energizing), I would suspect a sound board issue. Possibly a bad sound rom (is causing to call a sound routine that doesn't exist). Also possible is sound output drivers from the MPU if other sounds appear to be the wrong sounds.

Tough to troubleshoot without having another game to swap parts with.

I am pretty sure your Hurst style timing motor was 24VAC. The gear motor you bought from china is a DC brush motor. If you want to use it, you will need to mount a bridge rectifier in between the wire leads and the motor lugs.

Also, I don't know the application but if the auger motor is running non-stop during a game, a brush motor (especially those really cheap China ones) will eat through the brushes and fail. Thus, the reason why an AC motor was originally used. Probably not much of an issue for home use but would be a big problem if you are operating the game 12/7.

This is probably what you should have ordered from China:

ebay.com link: AC5V 6V 9V 12V 24V 110V 220V TYC Plastic Gear Synchronous Reduction Gear Motor

Are you checking the 69 AC across pins 6 AND 7 together (not is respect to ground)?

Your displays would not be working unless you had the 60VDC and 42VDC . Unless, of course, your game has been upgraded with LED displays.

That is not the correct way to check an AC voltage. You need to put your black lead on pin 6 and your red lead on pin 7.

Just like the original Gottlieb System 1 MPU, the 2005 NiWumpf Manual does not seem to show it supports a Novelty mode in any way (just Replay or Extra Ball).

The Pascal Janin PX-1(4) manual has an extra dipswitch setting #52 which turns an On Playfield Special into a 50,000 novelty award (must not be set to EB via Dipswitch #11). I am assuming you have to turn off all the replay score levels if you don't want them to respond with a credit.

Looks like a Fast/Quick draw (a much better game if you ask me)!

What is your line voltage sitting at? Any increase on that will result in slightly higher readings on the secondary side of the transformer.

When you say: "leads into sets of pins", I hope you don't mean that you stuck your meter leads into the front side of the connectors where the male header pins would go in? That often opens up the knuckle of the female pin to the point where it will have poor contact pressure on the male connector pins.

No good replacements other than original pulls from junked games.

There was a discussion thread about using the LED replacements (don't require HV) and the replacement MPUs (that don't require the -12v). When your small transformer is Toast.

Before you run out and buy a bunch of costly LEDs. Can we revisit this? Above, you say you have 74.3VC at pins 6 and 7. On my Joker Poker, while connected, I m reading 71.4VAC across the last two pins (Orange-White-Red and Blue-White-Red). Looking at the wiring diagram, they show a 1/4Amp fuse in line with the Blue-White-Red wire. This is probably located on the lower wood power tray.

Otherwise, while its not cheap, if the only voltage your transformer is missing is the 69VAC, this might be an option too:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/167L70?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvwUzoUXIIvyQPvPmwnNFGy5CfLurVwWaQ%3d

1518325236288935606444 (resized).jpg

Also, before buying that transformer, make sure you have the 3VAC across transformer pins 13 and 15 and 5VAC at 10 and 12, since they are essential for the Fluorescent display tubes too.

Kind of tough to follow a troubleshooting path when the info is intermixed with other posts and problems. Maybe it's time to start a separate thread where we can focus on your specific problem?

Anyhow, reading back, I think you might be testing the transformer AC wrong. Technically, AC does not always have a common reference to ground like a DC check would. Instead, you must read AC voltage across the windings themselves. So, you would not use ground.

For the most part, the 60/42VDC power is isolated from the other voltages until the regulator connectors are all plugged in. Just as the 5VAC and 3VAC are floating but end up being "grounded" via the center taps of the windings to produce it on an offset DC voltage.

Your earlier check that showed about 74AC proves the transformer is okay. So, What is your original issue???

Okay, thanks for the refresher.

If you are missing the 60VDC, it's kind of hard to tell if the MPU is doing anything since you can't see the displays. Having all the other DC voltage should allow the MPU to boot but again hard to know how it's reacting when you can't see the displays.

Therefore, you need a scope or logic probe to check for activity on the display strobes or switch matrix to see if the MPU board is FUBR'd.

Sadly, the best thing to have when troubleshooting a SYstem 1 game is another working System 1 game to swap parts. Otherwise, a Pascal Jamin All-in-one board is another great service alternative.

If you have 73VAC at the bottom connector of regulator board with connector plugged in, your transformer is good.

No matrix. All coils are single drive (single coil, single drive transistor).

However, when they ran out of coil drivers, they used lamp drivers (also single drive) which in turn drive a PNP transistor mounted to the underside of the playfield.

No diode on a pop bumper or flipper coil can cause all sorts of weird issues due to the back EMF which can be transferred through wire looms to other circuits.

No diode on a driven coil usually takes out it's drive transistor in one or two energizing.

After replacing any shorted or open transistors, you should immediately check across those two coils for voltage (after starting a game). There should be none. Sometimes, pre drive components can partially energized a coil but not enough to make it move. This draws down power and also heats up the driver until it fails due to overheating.

Have you put a fresh 1N4007 across the coil? For $0.09, it's good insurance any time you get a shorted driver.

Try hammering a small and a jumbo paper clip end flat and see if either will work. The flat head screw driver's problem is it tapers at the end where it needs to be bigger to cave in that little latch tab.

I make all sorts of extractors using paper clips sometimes needing to grind them narrow or put a tiny bend at the very end

When checking the DC output of a bridge, don't use earth ground (you have no way of knowing if earth is ultimately connected to logic or DC ground), connect Red lead to + of bridge and black lead to minus of bridge.

Your 2.5A fusing is risking not only the life of the DT Reset coil, but also the drivers on the driver board. Chances are, while the coil draws more than 2Amps it doesn't draw the full 2.5 amps so the fuse does not blow. Instead, the coil will heat up, start burning enamel off the windings, start to short windings to windings, reduce the Ohms, increase the current draw, and then start blowing the higher rated fuse. That's if it doesn't melt its nylon sleeve first (unless it has the old Brass ones).

The common bare braid that goes to all the controlled lamp sockets is not ground but rather positive voltage to the lamps. It is the drive transistors that ground the other end of the lamp sockets to complete the circuit.

Additionally, if you connect the power supply and you still have approximately 69VAC at the connector, there is nothing wrong with your transformer.

Based on what you told us, either your diodes we're installed incorrectly, or you broke a trace.

Not 3311 but 33 with an Ohm symbol.

If R13 is glowing, you have a dead short on the 60V regulated line. So, either C8 is shorted or one or more of your displays is shorted (Bad UCN6118 or shorted cap)

Unplug all 5 displays and retest voltages after TIP31. You could also have more shorted transistors now since they don't play well with dead shorts down stream. Re-check each with diode check to make sure you don't have any dead shorts across any E-B-C.

In probing, you may have shorted C to E on Q2 sending full 90V down to ICs on the displays. This could cause them to short internally.

Are the Insulators in place for the screw heads on the back of the board that mount the two TO220 transistors?

Ever hear of "less is more"? LOL. Too much Heat Sink compound can be as bad as none at all.

How many ohms do you read across Pins 1 (+60V) and 5 (GND) on A2P3?

All other grounding is done in the various connectors back to the main power tray. But one school of thought is to insure that every single board shares a strong common ground such as when other pinball brand boards are screwed to the ground plane. It all depends on the conditions of the connectors male and female pins or board contacts.

Where and how did you get your 7417's?

Due to the rarity of 7400 series these days, you might have counterfeit parts.

The minus 12 volt regulator, as well as the TIP32 tab transistors MUST have their tabs isolated from the chassis gound. That's the purpose of the "mica" insulator sheet and the nylon flange washer insulator.

With all connectors unplugged, you should not get a low ohm reading across the tabs to metal frame.

While I normally repair my system 1 power supplies, you may want to consider one of the after market replacements since they aren't too expensive.

The almost 0 ohms across +/- of the 6v bridge has me wondering. Sounds like there is something shorted across the output. Does it blow the fuse for the 6v bridge?

Yes, your voltage readings with the IC removed look good. As there are 6.8k pull down resistors (-12v) on the inputs and 2.7k pull ups (+5v) on the outputs.

I just noticed the Schematic in my Joker poker manual is wrong and shows Z6 as a7416 while the board is populated with 17's.

SCR 201 is a crow bar circuit (over voltage protection). So it could be loading down LIC1.

One option is to remove it and retest the output of the -12v regulator. Just don't have the CPU board attached in case your minus 12 is way out of range.

However, with your 20.2 volts dropping to 6.4, you probably have a cracked trace to the 7912 (very common problem).

I am not sure if this is the era but at some point, Gottlieb added a switch to the Tilt Relay and the Coil enable relay to "expand" the number of sounds that the CPU could send out. The Tilt relay more than likely triggers the Tilt speech. While the Coil enable relay switches normal sounds to Attract mode sounds.

So, you may want to clean and gap the switches on those relays.

Please move ground mods to the top of your to-do list. If you don't, you may end up with new electronic failures you would then have to fix.

Also, your photo shows the original blue filter caps. You can get away with not doing the HV cap ( unless the displays are flickering) but I would do the 5 volt regulator cap since it can cause lock ups and freaky problems.

You need the one currently out of stock A16634. This is the longest one made. It must be longer because of the metal bumper mounting pad Gottlieb uses.

Not sure that there is even anything wrong with that display. Did you start a game and is it sitting on ball 1?

If so, if the NVRAM (5101) is filled with values higher than BCD 9, you will get odd characters. Keep pressing start to start 4 players and then hit slam (assuming you haven't added the slam switch bypass jumper) which will cause the game to end and display the match number (if enabled). Press start and repeat until you see the numbers decrement down to displayable values. So, what I am saying is that your stored credits are higher than 99 and cannot be displayed properly. Once you get the 10's down to 90, or even the 1's below 9, you should start seeing normal numbers. If you have no battery on the board and you have jumpered Slam and are trying to do it by turning power off, you 5101 will keep reloading with garbage each time you re-power the game.

I am guessing the stand up was made by CPR if they reproduced the Pinball Pool plastic set.

On a system 1, the credit limit is only monitored when incrementing the credit count (normal operation). If the game is powered up with garbage in the 5101, you can have very high values. The 1's digit can be as high as 15 (1111). So, it can take more than 4 players to get the number down to 9 so it can be displayed (15, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, then 9). Once you get the 1's digit between 0 and 9, it should count by 1's normally but you then have to keep subtracting 10 credits from the 10's digit until you get it down to 99 credits.

For whatever reason, my games when they start up seem to be a number higher than 60 and numbers start appearing in the 50's. Once you have a good battery, and good 5101 circuit, yes, credits will top out at 15 max if that's what its set for.

You don't have to finish the games if your slam is still functional.

Only one 5101. You should confirm 3.6vdc at the ICs power pin when power is off to the machine.

You can try the 4007. It may or may not work. The issue is, there is about a 0.7 volt drop across it. The original diode is considerably less. Therefore, the input IC may not respond to the switch closure.

That may be a dirty dip switch. If it can play the start up tune (assuming this is a tone only sound board), then it can make all three tones.

First, try swapping with one of the other banks. That switch might not be needed.

Otherwise, turn it on and off about 100 times. If that doesn't fix it, time for new.

If using an original System 1 MPU, there is no specific chip. Two of the spider chips have most of the operating system software split between them. Then, the game PROM tells that software what to do with various switch closures.

So, if its not a mater of switch matrix read issues, it could be any of those failing that could effect it.

I would suspect a bad drive transistor. I think pascal used ULN2803A ICs with 8 drivers per package.

Not knowing if it is Pascal's recommendation, but I would suggest using only #47 lamps for feature lamps (or LEDs).

#47 = 150ma
#44 = 250ma

Which is why Pascal doubled up the drivers of the ULN2803's

Give us volt readings of all three places on the big TO-3 transistor (in reference to ground). This will help us know where to begin.

Did you have 5v before you worked on it?

No, if you have 15v to the screws (collector), then they are not grounding out. So, with only the 0.12ish volts to both base and emitter, it is further up the regulator circuit we have to look.

I will need to locate a schematic to guide you further, unless someone else steps in.

The 5 volt regulator circuit has an over voltage crowbar shutdown circuit consisting of SCR1, CR8 etc. If the 5 output rises above 5.6v, the SCR will short the output to ground. The LM723 regulator has an over current shut down feature. So, if either the voltage goes too high, or if there are shorts out in tge game or boards, the regulator will shut down.

So, it can be hard to troubleshoot the circuit.

With power off, try turning POT1 up and down serveral times to clean it, and then leave it at mid setting. Repower and retest.

1532062601110885764207253793899 (resized).jpg

Otherwise, the process would be to remove SCR1 and retest to see if the 5v output is too high.

After that, would be to confirm all resistor values. If you get an odd reading, you would have to unsolder 1 lead.

Beyond that, I would suspect the LM723.

Oh, check what you get at IC1 pin 10. Print says it should be around 7v. If you get more than the 0.12 you get at Q3, you have a bad solder joint to the hollow rivet for that lead.

Cut lead means someone else already tried to trouble shoot it before.

That would be what I suspect. After sucking up the solder in the holes, flow solder to the trace to adhere to the rivet but not fill the hole. Re-assemble.

Maybe a fuse?

Go into Book keeping and clear the high score to date. The odd characters are probably a hexidecimal value greater than 9 so you can never top it.

No, that's how it started. When battery power is lost, the 5101 ram powers up with garbage in it. You need to go through and clear and set free game score values AND the High score to date.

As it is a Gottlieb, I would think Steve at The Pinball Resource would be your best bet.

That is the Gottlieb PN too.

Pinball Resource lists them for $4.10USD. There is a + on the end of the PN.

http://www.pbresource.com/KT-GFLIP03M.html

Corrupt data. Do a high score clear or restore factory defaults.

New blades are not available. Only source is to part out old rotos.

Steve at Pinball Resource has them but will no longer ship them out, only uses to repair what is sent in.

Since you are outside the USA, hopefully someone can supply you with a used blade. Drill rivets, repin with new. (Steve has the Rivets too.)

There is a 1.8 meg and a 2.7 meg that go to U5, the NE555 timer.

Screenshot_20181011-080635_Chrome (resized).jpg

Better hope for a good MPU because Dragon is probably bottom of the barrel for sys1 games and hard to justify the cost of a Niwumpf let alone a Pascal 4in1. $300-$350 is about right for working. Sadly, more like $150 if bad MPU. Perfect condition backglass can raise that a bit for wall hanging.

Start a 4 player game and all addition "free" credits will go on the credit counter. Of course, if you max it out, you can never win more games.