Hey system 1 guru's. I just added my second system 1, a Pinball Pool project to go with my Joker Poker. Full image is from the prior owner. Going in I knew it had issues and I figure worst case I would spend the money on a Pascal all-in-one board. At this point I'm looking for advice whether to just buy the Pascal or try and repair what I got.

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As you can see there is a nice battery and some lovely corrosion on the front side of the MPU, while on the back you can see they cut off the connectors and soldered the wires to the board. Oh and more of the lovely corrosion While I was pulling the connectors in the back to clean things up, the pins and such pulled off the right side of the power board (original), not to mention a couple swollen caps. so I'm thinking to save myself some headaches and just buy the Pascal or should I spend the money on a new power board and hope I can get the MPU board working. If it didn't have all the wires soldered to it I could put in my Joker Poker and see if it works right...

Thoughts?

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Thanks for the feedback, I was leaning toward just doing the Pascal and saving the possible frustration (who needs that?). I'll also look up the resistor mod and make sure all is well everywhere else. The under playfield is all very nice and clean and everything I've checked so far seems to be in good order. Have a couple coils to swap to the correct ones, and someone oiled a flipper so of course it sticks now. Many parts on the way from pbr including new plastics, rubbers and drop targets and the little metal pieces for the edge connectors, the connectors were still in the backbox with the chopped off wires in them. Stripping the playfield at the moment to at a minimum do a very good cleaning, and level some inserts, and if I feel brave maybe some touch up and a nice coat of clear.

Back with my next set of questions. A couple related issues.

The score display glass unit (whatever it's really called) for player 2 is currently only held to it's circuit board by the inputs at the bottom. unit still works but flops around, how best to secure it in place? Which leads to my second issue. Judging by the back of the backglass it's been this loose for a while. What is the best way to repair the area of the backglass the score shows through? I ran across https://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0374.html while searching which looks promising, is that the best way to go?

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Cool, that film looks like just the thing!

Thanks for the suggestions everyone on the glass too, sounds like a common problem.

A Ni-wumpf came in my Joker Poker when i bought it, have not had any issues seems to work just fine. I also recently replaced all the boards in my Pinball Pool with the Pascal all-in-one board, and it was quick and easy and also works just fine. Given the choice and especially if having to replace more than 1 board I would go the Pascal all-in-one for simplicity sake, but like I say my Ni-wumpf works just fine, no issues.

I didn't mention it but my Joker Poker has Rottendog power and driver boards with the ni-wumpf so they are definitely compatible.

Don't have an answer for that one, but the one time I e-mailed them they were very responsive. [email protected]

Nice looking Solar Ride. I just picked one up yesterday (as well as a Cleopatra), love the backglass art on this machine and my BG is in amazing shape, but hard as heck to take a picture of all the mirror!

Do you happen to know a source for plastics, the usual haunts don't seem to have any? A couple of mine are broken or severely warped.

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Thanks, just picked up a couple used ones for my broken ones, and I'm going to try the heat to flatten my other warped ones, I'll be in touch if/when I mess them up The big one on the right, is the main one I'm going to attempt to flatten.

Got the new kids (Cleo and Solar) all setup and everything working right yesterday. Here's a pic of the current system 1 lineup, 1/4th of the way to having them all LOL. They all have different board setups, PP with Pascal's all-in-one, Cleo all original boards, Solar Pascal MPU original power and driver boards, and Joker with Ni-wumpf and rottendog power and driver, a little bit of everything. Looking for a nice Cleo backglass if anyone knows where one is, while I kind of think the seriously cracked look is kind of cool it is going to bug me over time.

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Thanks! Yeah, that backglass is in amazing shape, love the artwork on it, dang hard to photograph with all the mirroring though.

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It was that way when I bought it a year ago, and seems to be working fine. Ni-Wumpf System 1 - rev. M, Rottendog System 1 Driver Board GDB001-1, and Rottendog System 1 Power supply GPS002-2 are the specific parts in this system. I'd probably run with Ace says though. If I need to buy boards in the future I'm probably going with the Pascal boards, more specifically the all in one, works great adds neat features and i like the simplicity and less cables.

Done, but had to rate 4 machines to get mine to count as I had only done 2 ratings and now they wait review.

Added a Count-Down to the stable. Up to 5 system 1's now (in purchase order Joker Poker, Pinball Pool, Cleopatra, Solar Ride, Count-Down), over 1/4th of the way to owning them all I bought it from a nice gentleman who had it in his basement for the last 25 years, working until recently. Found a couple shorts and wiring issues and it's all working again. Backglass is almost perfect on this one, playfield has the usual wear, and the whole thing needs a good cleaning and new rubbers and a couple correct drop targets, but very happy to have this one, it's one of my favorites.

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you suck! and I mean that in the nicest way possible would love to take one of those off your hands, the system 1 grail pin.

Very nice Cleo! are they supposed to be white?

Yes I fight the stuck pins, have eventually been able to get them all out, the housing should be fine. There is Docent solder on connectors available as well (which you see a lot on Todd Tuckey videos), which I have bought because I don't have the originals (someone soldered the wires direct to the board), have not gotten around to installing yet.

http://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Gottlieb/System%20One.htm

I would suggest getting a manual, but in the mean time here is the relevant part of the diagram.

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Oh, and make sure non of the coin switches or coin lock out coil are shorting out, both of those are frequent issues that cause weird stuff to happen.

Yeah, sorry about that, you probably need this page as well.

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Dang, that's pretty. I don't think they looked that nice new, well done!

For those that may not have seen it there is a new cpu board out for system 1 and system 80 that also allows rescipting the games using MPF.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-system-1-and-system-80-support-in-the-mission-pinball-framewo

I've used an 18ga finish nail for a nail gun as a pin extractor (they are rectangular not round), did take a little grinding to fit.

mine is black

manual says A-18318

The coils are listed on the bottom of their respective schematic pages.

I don't think you can disable the on playfield Extra Ball, at least not with stock MPU (not sure about others either).

Nice work, looks great! So do you have a bunch of parts to build another out of? I might be interested in a project sinbad.

that's cool on the drop target memory, I'll have to remember that.

blasphemer! Pinball Pool is definitely very fun, as is Joker Poker I'm glad I have both. I recently added a gottlieb chime unit to my pinball pool and like it even better with chimes. I have one for Countdown as well just need to finish the install then all my system 1's will be chimes.

Just got my first system 80, Amazing Spider-Man, in pretty nice condition. Down to one small issue, my pop bumpers are not scoring. I checked the switch and continuity to the diode board mounted to the playfield and that seems good, but it appears I have a bad diode there as I get nothing on my mm in diode mode, whereas I get a reading on the others. everything else on both the same row and column in the switch matrix works fine, so I'm pretty sure it is down to the diode. the only diodes I have are the 1N4007 diodes, which those are obviously not. Is it OK to use one of those in that location? I seem to be getting conflicting information in the little information I googled.

Thanks.

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Thanks, I ran across a thread somewhere and someone mentioned stealing a diode from the coin switches on the bottom board. since I jumpered for free play and one of the slots is blocked off anyway, I went ahead and stole one from there and all is well, missed a bit of scoring and sound when pops don't score.

Once you knock down all the drops and hit the 8-ball (complete the rack) it lights the upper two kick holes to score the bonus when hit and then reset it all and kick your ball back out to continue.

bonus after it counts the ball bonus? I don't think I've seen or heard of that.

I had the same issue on my pinball pool and count-down with the 4-1 board, below is the response I got from Pascal when I e-mailed. I ended up buying I think 10 of the ULN2803 chips just to have on hand (I have 3 or 4 of the boards).

regarding CPU-driven lamps (L5 thru L36) which are always on, always off or dimly lit:

those lamps are driven by ULN2803 that go by pairs:

L5 thru L12 : U18/U21 above A3J5 connector

L13 thru L20 : U12/U15 above A3J5 connector

L21 thru L28 : U19/U23 above A3J3 connector

L29 thru L36 : U13/U17 above A3J3 connector --> your case

In case of LAMPS ALWAYS ON or DIMLY LIT :

turn the pinball game off, remove one of those 2 chips (no matter which one) then turn the game on: if the faulty lamps are now off, that chip is faulty and must be replaced.

otherwise (lamps still lit), remove the 2nd chip.

schematic shows 8ohm 5watt speakers, not sure on size however.

or just rearrange the ones that are there to match a CA instead of Count-Down

2. See on the bonus at 6000 and 8000 where it says lites left target and lites right target? those are what light the extra ball lights (by the targets). The 7000 is what does the special as it says.

1. Yes, pretty sure it is supposed to reset the vari after scoring.

So I just watched Bowen's new Papa tutorial on Sinbad (

) and it got me thinking of a modification. I'm currently putting back together a Sinbad and plan to put a LISY board in for the MPU which would allow me to recode it however I wanted. What would you think of adding in a spinner bonus like somewhat later gottliebs where if you go through the inlane when lit it would light the spinner for mega points for a few seconds? kind of like on alien star or arena or several others. of course there are no standard inlanes on this so the rollover on the right when lit (clear the yellow drops I believe to light) for 5000 when rolled over would then flash one of the advance lights by the spinner (maybe the add bonus light) for say 5 seconds which would then score say 10,000 a spin (or 1000 times current bonusX or something). I'm thinking it would actually give you a reason to hit the spinner other than it just being cool. I'm not looking to totally change the game just enhance it.

What do you guys think?

Nice. I've ground 18ga nails for my finish nailer down to fit and hold them with a small vice-grip, seems to work good as well.

pm sent

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Enabling_Free_Play

Looks like a good start.

club here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hollywood-heat-club-meet-out-front-of-the-carlyle-hotel/

That is probably close to what gottlieb intended, they usually said to screw leg levelers all the way in (assuming you have original, or at least all the same), then just level as needed. I prefer mine faster and steeper and mine are all at 5.5 to 6 degrees, very different game at that. I think it comes down to how you prefer to play, do you want them floaty and slow side to side arcs like an em, or faster with more downhill movement. And yes I have had to move the tilt ring screws to get them to adjust to that slope, but they can be made to do so easily. Flippers still do have plenty of power to get the ball back up top.

And nice on the Buck Rogers, that is high on my want list.

On this page http://pbresource.com/boards.html#stand

I believe they are the MP-52 which show as out of stock, but worth a call/e-mail anyway.

basically just cut that zip and screw the bar to the lock mech, it has a square hole in the end, make sure it's the right direction first. Here is a couple pics of mine first one in open position, second one in locked. note in the locked position you can't have the light board all the way open it will hit the bar.

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Nice score on Hulk. I just got mine together yesterday after a few months in the shop.

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The manual has a coil chart and lists the A-17875 main at 2.8 ohms. It is possible someone put higher power/lower ohm coils in.

I'm in the process of building a system 80A from the ground up. and have most of the important bits, but am looking for backbox and lightboard hinges. See the ad please.

Parts - Wanted

gottlieb system 80a backbox parts wanted Archived

Wanted! - “I know they used these in system 80A machines, but may have been in others as well. Looking for the backbox hinges and the mounting brackets that mount the head to the cabinet. p...”

2019-03-04

Spokane, WA

BorgDog

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Are you talking about the jones plug type pin under the playfield? That sets whether all drops are paired or just the even. typically on 5 ball only the even numbers would drop the opposite side when hit and on 3 ball all the drop targets drop the corresponding drop on the opposite side. you can however play 3 ball with 5 ball rules by leaving that plug on 5 ball.

dip switch 9 sets whether you play 3 ball or 5 ball

My shoot again definitely comes on during 1 player games when I earn an extra ball. Can't tell you what mine is set on though as its a few hours drive away.

Got lucky when I bought my count-down a couple years back, bg is sweet, rest of it's pretty nice too.

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pbresource sells those posts, toward the bottom of this page http://www.pbresource.com/boards.html there are several lengths they don't have all in stock. they are screwed in from the back, at least the ones I have seen.

Good morning guys and gals. I am about to embark on project Alien Star Resurrection! I picked up the mostly populated Alien Star playfield that TNT had posted as part of their cleanup/cleanout. It is in very nice shape, bottom area mostly mylared, some wear around the upper lanes and the pop bumpers. I will be stripping it down and doing some minor art touchup, mostly black, and clearcoating it.

Here is what I'm starting with, it does have the full wiring on the back.

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I have gathered together most of the other needed items, transformer panel, cabinet and coin door wiring harness, displays and backbox wiring harness, coin-door, buttons, switches etc. I will be building the cabinet and backbox from scratch, taking a few liberties to make it easier to build or for lack of original parts, but will look and function basically the same. I will be putting in a Pascal PI-80 board to run it all.

What I'm looking for today is some help in getting cabinet art stencils. I've been in contact with PinballPimp, who does not have the files for Alien Star, but he provided me with what he would need to make them, basically a 150dpi scan of the cabinet. I am willing to front the cost for him to do the artwork so he would then have it on file for anyone else that ever wanted to repaint an Alien Star, but since I do not have a cabinet to scan I am turning to all of you looking for someone who has an Alien Star and the ability to do a scan, or if close enough to me (near Seattle) would let me come over with a scanner and scan their cabinet. I can provide more details on the scanning, but basically just a small usb flatbed will work.

Thanks,

I believe the volume on that is the black knob on the Pascal sound board, although I can't find it stating that in the manual.

from what I can see on IPDB it appears to be the same setup as the system 1 latch. pictures of the system 1 stuff in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/joker-poker-ss-backbox-door-hardware

http://pbresource.com/coilsleeve.html

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7067-1

pbresource.com is the go to place for Gottlieb parts. I find e-mail works great.

Have not tried that, but interested in how it behaves when you do. What are you thinking of putting in there? an A-1496 like in the pops?

My right side hits the drops now with the 5194 in there, does not your's? sometimes knocks 1 down, sometimes 2, sometimes shoots slightly left of them all and goes to the top lanes.

ah, well that would make sense, 5195 is not nearly as strong as a 5194 (12.3 Ohms vs 4.5 Ohms).

those usually show up on either side of ramp entrances, zoom in and look closely at this image I think you can just make them out https://www.ipdb.org/images/678/image-10.jpg

if you really want ball swirls out you are going to have to go magic eraser, rubbing alcohol (removes original clear) then clear coat in my opinion. whatever clear (lacquer?) was originally on them was so thin the ball swirl marks are likely into the paint. I've done 2 system 1 machines and actually left some swirl because I didn't want to repaint and I felt going any further with the magic eraser I was going to eliminate area of paint. personally I'm fine with that, I mainly wanted them flat and playing smooth, the only touchup's I did was black keylines around inserts.

other than that, for just cleaning that thread covers it all, there are many ways to get it done, and many opinions to go along with them.

yes, I only touch up if clearing the whole playfield.

My royal flush deluxe, which I believe is the same head as rocky, is 29-3/4" wide. alien star a little later where they got rid of the side grills is 27-3/4" wide, compared to my tna (my only modern game) which is 28-3/4" wide. I don't think the wide body heads were any wider.

not sure it's necessarily possible to do that. according to the manual in the Option menu if you set Specil Credit to 1 it awards specials instead of extra ball, reading further you can also set Specil Overrd to 1 and then additional specials will award points instead of credits. I don't see any way to set the first special to points however.

manual can be found on their website, http://www.ni-wumpf.com/System1CPU.html but depending on what firmware version you have it may not have all the options of the current manual posted.

bought mine as a project and have not gotten it running yet (have yet to work on it), but am curious as to the answer. Also curious as I see you also have a Royal Flush, how do the two compare play wise? not necessarily rules, but feel, speed, etc.

thanks! chimes are pretty awesome, I've converted a couple of my system1's to chimes that didn't originally have them, I like it much better.

they both basically re-programmed the whole game independently and added extra features, Janine typically added more options than the ni-wumpf, so it's quite possible it can do that and the ni-wumpf can't. I've used both, and both work great.

I bought some gottlieb chimes off e-bay. Joker poker came with chimes from the factory, pinball pool is one of mine I converted over, along with Count-Down.

I'm going to guess no on the system 80a to chime conversion, but maybe someone else knows for sure, it's certainly not wired for it like the system 1 machines are.

Here you go guys, build your own Alien Star some assembly and parts required.

ebay.com link: Alien Star Playfield

Posted in the what did you bring home thread, but thought I'd throw it here too. Just "finished" the Alien Star I built from a mostly populated playfield I bought a year ago from toddtuckey . Loving this machine. More pics and details here -> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-machine-did-you-bring-home-today-post-your-pictures/page/295#post-5428865

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Thanks, I appreciate it, I definitely enjoyed doing it and got to learn a lot of new things.

I need to remember to put a note in the head that the cabinet and backbox wiring harnesses are from an Ice Fever, so not everything is the same, most of it is, but a few color differences in the wires mainly in the backbox as Ice Fever had extras that AS doesn't.

Missed one.

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yikes!

There are a few decent Gottlieb scans in the virtual pinball world, but I'm actually on the hunt for an Arena one myself (and plastics) to finish a virtual build of it.

If you shut off power and it stays down, sounds like a magnet to me. plunger or coil stop as you say.

Here is a couple pics of mine. Hope it helps. and yes that is only 4 diodes on that board if that's the one you are referring to.

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My tilt does work, I'm not near my JP at the moment, but here is a snip from an old pic of my A1J6.

I'm not real good at reading the schematics, but the tilt wiring is a little weird.

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that's weird, it's even called out on the Pascal board as tilt pendulum and you have no wire there either northvibe

Joker Poker manual a bit different on the switch matrix

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OK, found this in the system 1 service manual. Are the game manuals wrong?

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I don't think the J14 text goes with the tilt pendulum text, I think J14 is that block of jumper pins to the right, the tilt pendulum text follows the line to S4 which is A1-J6-7

So i think whats going on is like in your Pinball Pool matrix image, in the bottom left I believe the tilt on the back of the playboard and the tilt bob run together through A6J4-9 and return on A1J7-6 (instead of A1J6-7, maybe someone transposed). The red line below connects the two sides of the same pin on that connector. Make sense? now why Insane is not working is another matter, but maybe look at A1J7-6

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nice Alien Star. I like the narrow door much better on this one, shows much more of the stencil artwork.

it's not to bad, the de-soldering and re-soldering of the light socket wires is really the only pain part. i've done it on several machines, although the ones I cleared I did not put a mylar ring back. be sure and wax good before sticking the new ring down.

Exactly.

Nice game.

couple questions, do you have the blue bumper caps or blue lights in them? you on original board set or a replacement?

I bought I set of the white caps when I redid mine a little over a year ago, it looks like pbresource has them.

Thanks for the head's up northvibe that's awesome! Any idea if he plans on doing the 7 digit as well? I also like that the segments are shaped the same as the Gottlieb original ones, details details.

I have not done any swaps from 6 to 7, just thinking for 80A games like Alien Star that have 7 digit displays.

Not in the menus on stock boards. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_80#Free_Play_for_System_80_Games

http://www.pbresource.com/CoinDoor.html

scroll down till you spot them, or search the page for decal

I believe mine looks a bit different than that, but hard to tell from the angles.

per the manual it's a 21958, Marco has them. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/21958

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Could be a connector needs re-pinning, had that exact issue on one of my machines, forget which one.

Nice, love my Pinball Pool.