Alien Star
Gottlieb, 1984
Arena
Gottlieb, 1987
Asteroid Annie and the Aliens
Gottlieb, 1980
Bad Girls
Gottlieb, 1988
Big House
Gottlieb, 1989
Black Hole
Gottlieb, 1981
Bone Busters Inc.
Gottlieb, 1989
Bounty Hunter
Gottlieb, 1985You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Andy_B.
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If you are just testing the button you need to clip wires from one side of it.
If it is still wired up your meter may be pushing current through the components that the wires are connected to which may give you the weak buzz when the button isn't pressed.
Quoted from Topher5000:Does anybody know what size the connector pins on the power supply are? I need to get those replaced & am getting an order together.
Actually, does anybody what I should order for the pins themselves? g-p-e has a selection & I don't have a clue.
I believe its 08-52-0072 for 18 - 20g wire and 08-50-0134 for 22 - 26g wire.
Quoted from Topher5000:Thanks, but it's the pins on A2J1 & J2 that I need. A2J1 feels 'gritty' when I push the connector on.
Great Plains has PN 26-20-2061 that I think is correct, but it's out of stock.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=26-20-2061[quoted image]
Try Part Number 26-48-1241 at GPE. Same pin spacing but black. These are square pins too so they make a better contact than the round ones.
Quoted from embryonjohn:I called them about 80B, what a shame they don’t make them yet.
Pinsider Applejuice makes a replacement System 80B board.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mypinballs-new-system-80b-cpu-board
Quoted from Andreas:Anyone have a good pic of a backglass? Back and front, I also need a good pic on the side because will bring this back to life and will have to build a cab after the meassures from my genie but need pattern for painting it.
Cheers[quoted image]
Is that for real???
Quoted from hisokajp:First time owner of a SYS80, found myself a pretty beat up Alien Star but I am still happy.
I read pretty much the whole thread and went through Pinwiki, did what I could for now but I still have display issue.
-The game boot right away to all 0's on the display (minus the one not working) but I can coin up and start a game. it plays fine all around after that but I am assume there is some kind of issue with all the 0's and not having the 5 seconds boot up sequence?
-The display have missing segments (Unit on all 4, M's on P2 and 4 and service display completely out! the picture didn't catch P4) i went through some of the pinwiki steps (power tested good, display glass was fine...) but i do not have the material to redo the connector yet.
I see the 24 and 19 EDGE connector are out of stock from GPE... what is the alternative? I would rather buy new ones instead of having to remove all the pins one by one and reuse the connector.
[quoted image]
On a side note, Pinwiki table mention that M's digit out on P2/P4 should be D13 on A1J3-19 with Z18-3 but A1J3 only has a 17 pin connector, am I missing something?
From the picture I think the MPU had quite a bit of work (lots of IC replaced with sockets...) done so after doing the connector if I still have issue I will assume the MPU has issues and a replacement maybe needed...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
From Clay's repair guide:-
When there is a problem with two (or more) displays, often the problem is
the chips closest to the connectors on the CPU board. This would be
Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) or Z17,Z24,Z26 (7404).
If there is a Digit problem on two or more of the displays, check these chips.
These chips all go to connector J3. If all displays are missing a digit, suspect
CPU chip Z25. If two displays have a missing digit, suspect chips
Z17,Z24,Z26. If only one display has a missing digit, suspect the display
itself.
CPU chip Z25 (74154) controls the three digit CPU chips Z17,Z24,Z26.
CPU chip Z17 controls player 1, player 3, and the bonus display.
CPU chip Z24 controls player 2, player 4, and the credit/ball count.
CPU chip Z26 controls the the status display.
If there is a Segment problem in two or more of your displays, check these
chips. Remember connector J2 takes the segment lines to the displays. If all
displays have a segment problem, suspect CPU chip Z16. If two displays have
a display problem, suspect chips Z19,Z21,Z23. If one display has a segment
problem, suspect the UDN6116 chip on the display itself.
CPU chip Z16 (7404) is the main segment controlling chip. If a segment
is out on all displays, chances are good Z16 is the problem.
CPU chips Z18,Z20,Z22 (74175) feed Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448)
respectively. If a segment is out on a pair of displays, chances are good
its a 74175/7448 pair that is bad. The Z19,Z21,Z23 (7448) are the
most problematic though (I don't think I have ever changed a 74175 to
fix a segment problem).
CPU chips Z18,Z19 control segments on players 1 and 2 displays.
34 of 68
Quoted from JethroP:Cut that IDC and throw it in the garbage. Replace with molex crimp .156 pins and new housing.
Ideally yes, but many of the specific Gottlieb edge connectors are no longer available, so he has no choice.
20201106_145607.jpg20201106_145740.jpg20201106_145528.jpg20201106_145740.jpg20201106_145740.jpg20201106_145740.jpg20201106_145740.jpg#Cheddar, If you are having issues deciphering the results of the Quickscan 80 you would be better to reach out to GPE who designed it.
Ed helped me out when I couldn't work out what was happening with my Quickscan 80. A true asset to the community.
Its inevitable that someone will, at some point, turn on the pin with one of these connectors unplugged, particularly when troubleshooting.
While I applaud your efforts you are introducing an extra and unnecessary hazard which I don't think is acceptable.
Perhaps a re-design is in order.
Quoted from Snowtrooper:Have an unusual issue that I am looking for some information. Just had some friends playing my Gottlieb Volcano over the weekend, and they said they were getting electrically shocked while playing (flippers) and the coin door was giving a shock as well. I assumed they had their hands on the side rails next to the flippers (as they were playing).
Ironically, the game plans normal / as it should, with no blown fuses. The one (1) player grabbed his multimeter and stated he is “seeing” 70 volts AC on the door when the game is powered up. Anyone ever experience this? Any ideas where to check? Thanks in advance.
Is the pin grounded at the electrical socket?
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Worksop
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